The Official P45 Asus P5Q Motherboard Thread

TechHead said:
~35 at idle, ~50 at load, with a 3-4 degree delta across cores. Open side panel, 92mm Panaflo, and ~28-30 degree ambients.
Too high?
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With a 2.7 overclock that's not too bad. You're not hurting anything with 50c at load anyways. I always say the cooler the better though. :cool:
 
Just thought i would chime in. I have been using a p45 for a couple of months now, and couldn't be happier with my results. I have an e6600 running at 3 ghz and an undervolted CPU. Unreal results. The only downside to this board is that the capacitors by the CPU WILL BLOCK large HSF's be wary. I had to whip out the hammer and hacksaw to get my scythe ninja to mount correctly. (The capacitors are too tall and block part of the HS.
 
there's just enough gap for the thermalright UFX-14 to fit there on top of capactitors

http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_p..._ifx-14.html?art=MTQyMywxLCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==

but I had to junk the backplate cooler extension as it shorted on the motherboard/case - tried a few times to keep it but it was junk. If I was doing it again I would just go for the true120, little cheaper

Note that I also had to grind the thermalright backplate retention bracket as it was resting against the copper on the base, see picture below

(so 2 issues here, the cooler shorted and the retention bracket also shorted - the part ground off was for AMD motherboard screws so no matter)



IMG_3477800x600.jpg
 
SirKronan said:
That is weird. Mine came clean as a whistle. Was it in a bag? Did you buy it open box, maybe? If not, then it shouldn't have anything on it.
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yea it was in a new big anti-static bag but...........there was no sticker on it was there suppost to be a sticker on the bag? it was just the bag alone no sticker to close it.
 
Can someone point me towards some settings to overclock my e8400 on my P5Q pro to 4ghz? I have read the entire How to OC C2D guide thread but this P5Q pro motherboards has a lot of extra settings that I think I might have to adjust. I'm using 2x2GB G.Skill PC8500.

--> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166

Can anyone tell me what settings I should change first when I begin overclocking tonight? also is a load temp of 65C at 4ghz ok?

Thanks for the help.
 
hey guys when you opened your P5Q-Pro's anti-static bag that its in was there a sticker sealing it?

just wondering because there was none on mines thinking to RMA
 
I wouldn't worry about the sticker on the bag, just figure out if the board is good. Can you take a picture of the marks on the back or at least describe how thick it is? PCBs get dipped in several baths of chemicals during manufacturing and usually get cleaned as one of the final steps, it's possible that it didn't get a through enough wash on the final step. Unless this is a thick layer of filth you're probably fine since it's on the back, typically it's only a problem when it's on a connector. On the back the big thing to watch for would be conductive particles creating a short or low resistance path, but that typically needs metal bits, not just a chemical. Some rubbing alcohol and a lint free wipe will most likely remove it as well, that's how we usually deal with it in the lab.
 
TroubleMagnet said:
I wouldn't worry about the sticker on the bag, just figure out if the board is good. Can you take a picture of the marks on the back or at least describe how thick it is? PCBs get dipped in several baths of chemicals during manufacturing and usually get cleaned as one of the final steps, it's possible that it didn't get a through enough wash on the final step. Unless this is a thick layer of filth you're probably fine since it's on the back, typically it's only a problem when it's on a connector. On the back the big thing to watch for would be conductive particles creating a short or low resistance path, but that typically needs metal bits, not just a chemical. Some rubbing alcohol and a lint free wipe will most likely remove it as well, that's how we usually deal with it in the lab.
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thx for the suggestions its not even thick its just very transparent stains in random places and covers the entire back. but on the front theres not even a single speck of it there its all clean??? can only see if you put your face close to the mobo. i didn't see any metal bits in it its all clear. i'm thinking to take it out the case and wipe it with rubbing alcohol as you suggested. i have (91% isopropyl alcohol) is that conductive? also if the entire mobo did short would it kill every other components with it? one more thing lol was there a sticker on your asus mobo box? (P5Q-Pro). im pretty sure its brand new never used but there were no stickers on the box or anti-static bag this is making me insane.

sry no camera but the stains kinda looks like this but transparent white and very small


lol sry for all the questions its just that i built the computer 2 days ago and haven't turned it on yet i'm afraid every things gonna go up in flames..........
 
It's conductive when wet but that's not a problem since it will evaporate so fast, one of the reasons it's used is that it evaporates quickly, unlike water. If the whole motherboard is shorted it most likely won't even power up due to protection circuits. Your components should be pretty safe for this. I really don't think you have much to worry about, I've seen a TON of boards in the lab with different types of crud (flux, solder resist, solvents) on them due to people skipping or rushing the cleaning steps to get them to us faster. Cleaning them up with isopropyl alcohol took care of it no problem.

I can't remember if mine had a sticker on it or not, them forgetting the sticker isn't terribly uncommon I'd guess. Did you get it at Fry's or something?
 
TroubleMagnet said:
It's conductive when wet but that's not a problem since it will evaporate so fast, one of the reasons it's used is that it evaporates quickly, unlike water. If the whole motherboard is shorted it most likely won't even power up due to protection circuits. Your components should be pretty safe for this. I really don't think you have much to worry about, I've seen a TON of boards in the lab with different types of crud (flux, solder resist, solvents) on them due to people skipping or rushing the cleaning steps to get them to us faster. Cleaning them up with isopropyl alcohol took care of it no problem.

I can't remember if mine had a sticker on it or not, them forgetting the sticker isn't terribly uncommon I'd guess. Did you get it at Fry's or something?
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Thx I'm going to rub the back with distilled water first and if it don't come out i'll use isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. and i got it from newegg brand new i can tell its never been used before.
 
mista ting said:
Thx I'm going to rub the back with distilled water first and if it don't come out i'll use isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. and i got it from newegg brand new i can tell its never been used before.
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Did it have stickers covering the processor and memory slots? I got mine from the egg and it did. Also, I have found isopropyl alcohol works perfectly for most of my cleaning needs. It evaporates quickly and leaves almost no trace of anything harmful or conductive. I would try to use cotton swabs or something that will leave minimal paper fibers, or maybe after they dry you can blow anything off with compressed air. You should be fine. If it doesn't power up, then it's a DOA obviously.
 
SirKronan said:
Did it have stickers covering the processor and memory slots? I got mine from the egg and it did. Also, I have found isopropyl alcohol works perfectly for most of my cleaning needs. It evaporates quickly and leaves almost no trace of anything harmful or conductive. I would try to use cotton swabs or something that will leave minimal paper fibers, or maybe after they dry you can blow anything off with compressed air. You should be fine. If it doesn't power up, then it's a DOA obviously.
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yeah it came with stickers on the cpu socket and the dimm's also a cpu socket plastic cover. i'm thinking to use a new tooth brush dipped in isopropyl alcohol and gently brush it off ?_?
 
i still wished the other p5q variants had the same heatsinks and 24 pin location as the regular p5q, it's too bad, i ended up picking up another p5q over a p5q pro because of it
 
Voiceofid said:
i still wished the other p5q variants had the same heatsinks and 24 pin location as the regular p5q, it's too bad, i ended up picking up another p5q over a p5q pro because of it
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The P5Q-E has a better location for it than the Pro does doesn't it? I think there's other subtle differences such as the brand of on-board audio and Firewire, not sure, ASUS' site should have a good breakdown of it though... Although, last I checked, the part of the site that outlines it doesn't open in FF.

Edit: I'm sure this link has been posted before in the thread (probably where I remembered it from in order to dig it out of my browser history). Though it's not as useful or detailed as hitting Product Comparison on ASUS' site and selecting both mobos... That opens a Flash app yet it doesn't seem to wanna open in FF, and they don't have the P5Q Pro listed anyway, go figure.

http://www.techarp.com/showarticle.aspx?artno=548&pgno=0

According to Newegg though, in addition to a better heatsink, the P5Q-E has ADI on-board sound (+optical out) while the Pro has a Realtek chip, for whatever that's worth... Doesn't list the brand of the Firewire controller, and the P5Q-E has e-SATA while the Pro doesn't apparently. Oh and the P5Q-E has a 2nd Gigabit port. Seems accurate from looking at the pics. Though the P5Q Pro says it comes with an e-SATA bracket, I guess it piggybacks off an internal port?

Location of the PCI/PCI-E/PATA/SATA ports varies as well... The heatsink on the P5Q-E doesn't seem that much more effective imo, although it does have an extra heatsink around what looks like some MOSFETs. For some reason I was thinking the 24-pin connector on the Pro was smack dab in the middle of the board, but it's on the same place on both... Might've been the P5K Pro that had it in the middle, like the P5Q vanilla.

Why would you prefer it there anyway?

Edit #2: Actually, the P5Q Pro is listed on Product Comparison if you access it from the Global site rather than USA, weird. It lists the same LSI Firewire controller on both btw, I remember it being different between the P5K-E and P5K Pro (the e-SATA one as well). One has an 8MB BIOS chip whereas the other is 16MB, heh. Whatever, the difference between the two boards used to only be $10 on Newegg too, not $20. /shrug
 
The number of different variants of mobos using the same chipset that ASUS produces is bonkers, but even more baffling is the number of obscure changes between them and even between P45 boards and their P35 equivalents... The P35 P5Ks used either Marvell or JMicron controllers for the PATA/e-SATA port; whereas the P45s all use a Silicon Image controller (is e-SATA native on the P45?). That's probably a good thing though. All the -E variants use ADI sound while the vanilla/Pro use Realtek. The P35 boards used either VIA or Agere Firewire controllers, now the P45s use LSI. So on and so forth... :p
 
From ASUS' site:

Expansion Slots

P5Q Pro
2 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots, support ATI CrossFireX™ technology at x8 link
(PCIe x16_1 blue, PCIe x16_2 black*)
3 x PCI Express x1 slots
2 x PCI slots
*PCI Express x16_2 slot (black at max. x8 link)

P5Q-E
2 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots, support ATI CrossFireX™ technology, at x8 link
(PCIe x16_1 blue, PCIe x16_2 black*)
1 x PCI Express x16 slot at max. x4 link(black)
2 x PCI Express x1 slots
2 x PCI slots
*PCI Express x16_2 slot (black at max. x8 link)

Storage Southbridge

P5Q Pro
- 6x SATA 3Gb/s
- Intel® Matrix Storage Technology with RAID 0, 1, 5 10 support
Marvell 88SE6111
- 1 x UltraDMA 133/100/66 for up to 2 PATA devices
Silicon Image Sil5723 (Drive Xpert technology)
- 2 x SATA 3Gb/s
- Supports EZ Backup and Super Speed functions
*Drive Xpert function is available only when the hard disk drives are set as data drives. Southbridge

P5Q-E
- 6 x SATA 3Gb/s
- Intel® Matrix Storage Technology with RAID 0, 1, 5, 10 support
Marvell 88SE6121
- 1 x UltraDMA 133/100/66 for up to 2 PATA devices
- 1 x External SATA 3Gb/s port (SATA On-the-Go)
Silicon Image Sil5723 (Drive Xpert technology)
- 2 x SATA 3Gb/s
- Supports EZ Backup and Super Speed functions
*Drive Xpert function is available only when the hard disk drives are set as data drives.

LAN

P5Q Pro
PCIe Gb LAN controller featuring AI NET2

P5Q-E
Dual Gigabit LAN controllers
Marvell 88E8056/88E8001® Gigabit LAN controller featuring AI NET2, Teaming and Redundant

Audio

P5Q Pro
Realtek ALC1200, 8-channel High Definition Audio CODEC
- Support Jack-Detection, Multi-streaming, Front Panel Jack-Retasking
- Coaxial S/PDIF_OUT ports at back I/O
- ASUS Noise-Filtering

P5Q-E
ADI® AD2000B 8-channel High Definition Audio CODEC
- Support Jack-Detection, Multi-Streaming, and Front Panel Jack-Retasking
- Coaxial/Optical S/PDIF out ports at back I/O
- ASUS Noise-Filtering
 
Impulse said:
Why would you prefer it there anyway?
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with the psu on the bottom, it's a simple wrap around the video card for the 24pin, looked very clean when i had it together

the northbridge heatsink was also a good "guide" for the 8pin eatx to go up paralle and next to the memory slots and across the top, with a memory stick in place, the cable didn't move
 
When I bought mine, the P5Q pro had free shipping, the P5Q-E did not. This made the total difference $30. The P5Q Pro also had a $20 off instant discount code, listed earlier in the thread. That means I paid $120 shipped for the P5Q Pro. I definitely have gotten my money's worth. Looking at the board, I don't believe a dual slot card in crossfire would block any sata ports either, and the P5Q Pro does have one E-Sata port.

From what I've read the 8 phase vs. 16 phase power doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Some will tell you it does, but most have told me that it won't matter hardly at all.

I haven't been disappointed in the least. The P5Q Pro is a steal at $140, let alone $120 shipped. If the code hasn't expired, use it and get the P5Q Pro. Spend 30 bucks on something more important, like a TRUE. Some people have had trouble mounting more square shapped and flatter HSF's on their processors, but I have had no issues mounting the TRUE, providing your case is big enough.
 
I'm pretty sure the -E and Pro are both 8 phase regardless... Does the e-SATA bracket on the Pro work off any of the internal SATA ports or what? And can you hot-swap from it?
 
Impulse said:
From ASUS' site:
LAN

P5Q-E
Dual Gigabit LAN controllers
Marvell 88E8056/88E8001® Gigabit LAN controller featuring AI NET2, Teaming and Redundant
Click to expand...

Does teaming mean that I can hook up 2 internet connections and have the driver pair them up to act as a single larger pipe? Hell, I'd be happy if it even just did some round-robin thing w/ each socket (or application) to make use of both networks.

I have both cable and adsl right now (don't ask) and unfortunately the adsl sits idle 95% of the time. I'd like to use it too.
 
Can someone recommend me memory that works with this board?

PC1066, at least 4gb.
 
Well, a good number of the DDR800 kits will run at 1066 just fine (with some timing tweaking), but it's certainly never guaranteed... Good way to save upwards of $30 though.
 
samsonJS said:
Does teaming mean that I can hook up 2 internet connections and have the driver pair them up to act as a single larger pipe? Hell, I'd be happy if it even just did some round-robin thing w/ each socket (or application) to make use of both networks.

I have both cable and adsl right now (don't ask) and unfortunately the adsl sits idle 95% of the time. I'd like to use it too.
Click to expand...

That's what it means, in theory, I'm sure it'd probably work w/relative success over your own network (provided you have something else that can feed that kinda bandwidth)... How well it works when combining two broadband connections I've no clue, you'd have to do some research on Marvell's drivers, etc.
 
MaStaFLaSH said:
I use this it will easily run at DDR2 1066 speeds.
Click to expand...

With what timings and volts?

Impulse said:
I'm pretty sure the -E and Pro are both 8 phase regardless... Does the e-SATA bracket on the Pro work off any of the internal SATA ports or what? And can you hot-swap from it?
Click to expand...

I would recommend using the port marked with "e-sata" just to be safe. It's designed for sure to be hot swappable.
 
MaStaFLaSH said:
I've had three kits, all easily did 1066 @ 2.0v 5-5-5-15, YMMV.
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And look at the dealio now!! I'm going to get some of this ram on your word. It looks awesome, too. Nice MIR.

thanks for the tip. I would love to pair that up with my Q6700.
 
neokeelo said:
im using this for the P5Q Pro http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166
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For anyone inclined, I'm running two sets of this for 8gb total at 1066, 2.1v and default timings on a P5Q Deluxe. I scored a great single day deal on this at newegg for $85 per pair/w free shipping back in July.

I also tested this memory individually, in pairs, and all at once on an Intel DG965WHMKR and a Biostar TF8200. On all three motherboards the memory defaulted to 800 - i did not try the voltage/speed bump on the other motherboards - just have done that on the P5Q Deluxe.
 
JRS said:
For anyone inclined, I'm running two sets of this for 8gb total at 1066, 2.1v and default timings on a P5Q Deluxe. I scored a great single day deal on this at newegg for $85 per pair/w free shipping back in July.

I also tested this memory individually, in pairs, and all at once on an Intel DG965WHMKR and a Biostar TF8200. On all three motherboards the memory defaulted to 800 - i did not try the voltage/speed bump on the other motherboards - just have done that on the P5Q Deluxe.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I wanted to hear, thank you.
 
That's pretty nice, getting 4 DIMMs (of any size) to run on a mobo can be hard enough sometimes at DDR800, but having 8GB running smoothly at 1066 w/o much tweaking is noteworthy imo (even at $100 a pair). What's that Q9550 running at? :cool:
 
Impulse said:
That's pretty nice, getting 4 DIMMs (of any size) to run on a mobo can be hard enough sometimes at DDR800, but having 8GB running smoothly at 1066 w/o much tweaking is noteworthy imo (even at $100 a pair). What's that Q9550 running at? :cool:
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This mobo can't run 4x1g but can run 4 x 2 g... it's weird.
 
Hey P5Q'ers

Thanks everyone, especially SirKronan, for all your input about this board. I got everything installed, including a Scythe Ninja, without a hitch. Raid-0 seems to be working fine and this board is quite a bit quieter than than the 750iFTL.

So I'm going about trying to achieve a decent overclock now and thought I'd get some pointers. I'm not too familiar with the Asus BIOS layout but it seems straight forward enough.

I started by simply jacking the multiplier up to 11 and keeping the FSB @ 333. (I had to increase CPU to 1.4v of course.) For some reason my CoreTemp readings were getting really high. I also noticed that, unlike the Nvidia board, my reported CPU Temp was almost identical to my average Core Temps. Are you guys finding similar results, or is their a decent gap between the two. I always thought CoreTemps tend to be 10celcius higher than overall CPU temps

Anyone care to post some BIOS settings that might work with a QX6850. I know I can probably push the Vcore to 1.5 but that would also crank my temps up. I've heard a higher FSB and lower multiplier is better so all I'm looking to get is from Stock 3Ghz to 3.6 or 3.8, while keeping temps reasonable.

So far stability and feature set of this board is great, but any advice to get a decent OC would be appreciated.
 
Impulse said:
That's pretty nice, getting 4 DIMMs (of any size) to run on a mobo can be hard enough sometimes at DDR800, but having 8GB running smoothly at 1066 w/o much tweaking is noteworthy imo (even at $100 a pair). What's that Q9550 running at? :cool:
Click to expand...

It's running at what I'll call the "introductory" overclock for a Q9550 - 3.4GHz. I just bumped up the fsb from 333 to 400 to get it there. Memory was by default at 800 (1:1 ratio) with default timings. I ran that for a few days and debated keeping the ratio an dropping the timings, but finally decided I'd go for 1066/w 2.1v.

When I get a chance I want to see if I can bring the ram voltage down some. Also, I've still got the CPU voltage at auto, which means it is probably running higher than it needs to, so I'd like to tweak that some.

The entire build is the "desktop" in my sig.

This is only my second venture into OCing so I'm still figuring things out. My first was a E4400 on Gigabyte 8I865 and the bios on that board prompted me to bump the fsb up, which took the cpu from 2.0 to 2.66 (this is now my wife's pc).

Most of my time was fighting a 'atikmdag.sys has recovered successfully' problem with the 4850 - but I'm fairly confident I"ve eliminate the cpu/ram overclocking as a cause as I can induce it by enabling ATI overdrive within CCC, even when the CPU was stock and the ram was at default (with 1, 2, or 4 sticks).
 
BDV said:
Cool, was actually look over it.


Are you using it in dual channel mode? In yellow slots?
Click to expand...
I am
about to work on the first oc.

Just installed a thermaltake 120 extreme... what a PITA that was.
still felt like it was "slipping" around
at stock speeds I'm seeing

47/38/38/38
with
around 80*f case temp.
 
MaStaFLaSH said:
I've had three kits, all easily did 1066 @ 2.0v 5-5-5-15, YMMV.
Click to expand...

Can u peel the SLI nVidia stickers off without damaging anything or loosening the heat sinks? I jumped the SLI ship ... it would clash with my CF motherboard.
 
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