The Official Core 2 OverClocking Database *READ 1st Post for Instructions*

UPDATE:

Added: zoob (nice oc of Q6600 good water setup), zoob (just gave you vista 32 for OS since none was provided)

Deleted: zoob (deleted E6700 previous entry you have 3 already)


Vista X64 for all of my overclocks, sorry for not mentioning. I've got another Q6600 coming, should be hitting 3.6 on it by next week :D
I've had three E6700s but this one is the best... oh well ;)
 
Vista X64 for all of my overclocks, sorry for not mentioning. I've got another Q6600 coming, should be hitting 3.6 on it by next week :D
I've had three E6700s but this one is the best... oh well ;)

ok zoob thanks for letting me know ill make note of that :)
 
2 weeks of posts gone ... it had to be my post .... but lucky videomasterz updated mine b4 it dissapeared thanx :)

Ok this is my updated specs and oc, finally got past 4.0ghz :D

User Name: jhl81
Stability: Orthos (small) 4 hours

CPU: E6750
OC: 4016mhz
Stepping: B, G0
Week: L720
Code: A759
Vcore: 1.5375(bios), 1.488V idle(actual), 1.472V load(actual)
Cooling: Air
Cooler brand/model: Thermalright Ultra 120 Xtreme

Motherboard: Gigabyte 965P-DS3P rev 3.3
Bios Version: F4
Operating System: Vista 32

RAM brand: Crucial Ballistix
RAM rated speed: 8500
RAM actual speed: 1004
Latency: 5-5-5-15

4016mhzcpuzry0.jpg


4016mhzscreenshot1ui0.jpg


For some reason my ballistix is showing up as 6400 in cpuz, i think because my board only supports up to 6400 and can't recognize 8500 :confused: ...
 
no problem jhl81...

i did get the e6750 in..i overclocked it on stock voltage and stock intel heatsink to 2.8ghz 4+ hours orthos stable.... i couldnt get it over 2.8ghz without increasing the voltage up to 1.55volts!!! was using a gigabyte 650i sli-ds4 board. i had to press ctrl+F1 in the bios menu to access the extra menus lol.. so funny... anyway not sure what was my limitations from preventing me to go higher than 2.8ghz probably it was the chip, i needed alot of voltage, which i DIDNOT want to do since.. 1) its NOT my processor a friends, and 2) it was on stock cooling.... so built it and gave the comp to my friend.. told him 2.8ghz is plenty and its like a e6850...
 
.. told him 2.8ghz is plenty and its like a e6850...

lol thats the only way they will understand and feel good about their pc :D ... its not that often i see a good e6750 chip ... it seems alot of ppl need to put in alot of voltage to get past 3.5ghz but its the first time i heard of 1.55V to pass 2.8ghz ...

i prob hit max on my gear, fun is over i guess until i get a quad and H20 setup which won't be for a while :)
 
i dont know man it must of been some other voltages i needed to up on the board.. or maybe i didnt disable some cpu features... could of been that??!?! but i did up the fsb and chipset voltage a bit...
 
yeah but still good 8+ hours.... some say 24+hours is truly stable.. anyway ordered a e6550 building another comp for a friend... will oc that on stock heatsink :)
 
Hey videomasterz!

My 4Ghz run with my Q6600 has my Vcore labeled as 1.68v but under load it is 1.6v DMM tested and Everest reports 1.62v

Was wondering if that could be changed?

Thanks!!!
 
My 4Ghz run with my Q6600 has my Vcore labeled as 1.68v but under load it is 1.6v DMM tested and Everest reports 1.62v

I think videomaster records the bios voltage instead of vdroop voltages.
 
yes i actually just take the bios voltage .... i know in cpuz it will show a lower voltage if the cpu is on load... but just to make things even across the board i only put vios voltages and what users "claim"... its just to show other users that are into overclocking what voltage you actually used.. if i start putting load voltages or idle voltages in some entries itll throw everyone off... just want everything to be equal... :)
 
So I just got a water setup, Thermaltake Symphony, nice big thick hoses, great clamps, nice looking hella lapped flat copper water block. After some new thermal paste and assembly of the system, my processor temp is down to 30C at idle :eek: Huge difference over air at all the same voltages/etc.

Now it's time to push this chip further :D
 
Well I got a good temp reduction but I haven't been able to go any further, any thoughts? Maybe I need a NB/SB chipset water block?
 
Well I got a good temp reduction but I haven't been able to go any further, any thoughts? Maybe I need a NB/SB chipset water block?

Sometimes, the end....is just that.

The end.

My chip tops at around 3560Mhz and I could blast it with dynamite and bury it 100 feet deep in Antarctic ice......the max would still be 3560Mhz. :)
 
Yeah but I want more!

Seriously though, I think i'm hitting the wall at 450 FSB, would additional NB/SB water cooling help with that? I've got to think that this chip has more in it.
 
Yeah but I want more!

Seriously though, I think i'm hitting the wall at 450 FSB, would additional NB/SB water cooling help with that? I've got to think that this chip has more in it.

Not really sure what to tell you on this one.....
I thought my E6420 was being limited by my eVGA 680i LT motherboard and getting stuck at 447.5Mhz max.
So, I went out and got a DFI Infinity Dark 965-S which I heard heard people rave about and it was supposed to be getting higher FSB speeds.
My maximum speed? 447.5Mhz.

Sold the DFI to some lucky soul here on [H] and went back to my 680i LT out of nothing more than comfort level with the board.
The board died after having an issue with the NB.

I bought an eVGA 680i motherboard to hold me over until my RMA'd LT version came back.
My maximum speed on the "standard" 680i? 447.5Mhz.

The replacement LT was D.O.A. and it's been returned to eVGA.
Now I'm stuck with the 680i I planned on returning to get my money back....lol.

When the SECOND 680i LT replacement arrives, I'm not even going to break the seal on the box.
It's going on sale immediately and I'm sticking with the 680i that's in my system now.
At this point, I'm sick of swapping 'em. :cool:

I tried cooling the NB with a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II, a Thermalright HR-05, HR-05-SLI with an Arctic Cooling fan, with a Yate Loon 80mm fan, with AS5, with AS Ceramique, and with stock cooling.
No increase in speed, simply an increase in stability at higher voltage due to lower temps.

Moral of the story.......

Stick with what you've got and be happy.
You may be spinning your wheels for nothing. ;)
 
Not really sure what to tell you on this one.....
I thought my E6420 was being limited by my eVGA 680i LT motherboard and getting stuck at 447.5Mhz max.
So, I went out and got a DFI Infinity Dark 965-S which I heard heard people rave about and it was supposed to be getting higher FSB speeds.
My maximum speed? 447.5Mhz.

Sold the DFI to some lucky soul here on [H] and went back to my 680i LT out of nothing more than comfort level with the board.
The board died after having an issue with the NB.

I bought an eVGA 680i motherboard to hold me over until my RMA'd LT version came back.
My maximum speed on the "standard" 680i? 447.5Mhz.

The replacement LT was D.O.A. and it's been returned to eVGA.
Now I'm stuck with the 680i I planned on returning to get my money back....lol.

When the SECOND 680i LT replacement arrives, I'm not even going to break the seal on the box.
It's going on sale immediately and I'm sticking with the 680i that's in my system now.
At this point, I'm sick of swapping 'em. :cool:

I tried cooling the NB with a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II, a Thermalright HR-05, HR-05-SLI with an Arctic Cooling fan, with a Yate Loon 80mm fan, with AS5, with AS Ceramique, and with stock cooling.
No increase in speed, simply an increase in stability at higher voltage due to lower temps.

Moral of the story.......

Stick with what you've got and be happy.
You may be spinning your wheels for nothing. ;)

It's NEVER enough :D

It's funny though, I thought I was at my max on air until someone from this board helped me out and got me another 200 mhz at the same volts/temps. So I went out and bought water cooling hoping to go further, got water..no luck. Now I'm forced to think it's board cooling limiting me..so here's my next question, for the 680i NorthBridge and SouthBridge, what are good water blocks to get?
 
UPDATE:

Added: barchettai495 (A795 Code)

Deleted: zoob (E6600 3201mhz too many entrys only 3 max)

Editted: changed zoob Q6600 from vista32 to vista64 for OS, jhl81 (changed to 4016MHz TOPE6750 still! ediited bios from F5 to F4, xp32 to vsita 32, transcent to curcial), barchettai495 (L623 to L723)

First post of thread reflects current changes. Please REFRESH! (database and summary image will change)
 
It's NEVER enough :D

It's funny though, I thought I was at my max on air until someone from this board helped me out and got me another 200 mhz at the same volts/temps. So I went out and bought water cooling hoping to go further, got water..no luck. Now I'm forced to think it's board cooling limiting me..so here's my next question, for the 680i NorthBridge and SouthBridge, what are good water blocks to get?

I know nothing about water blocks. Period.

Now talk to me about that extra 200Mhz. :D
 
To get the extra 200 mhz he had me bump the HT link multiplier down to 4 and up the voltage on the HT link just a bit...got me up to the clock I'm at now, no noticeable decrease in speed on anything by dropping that multiplier 1 notch. I found a swiftech 680i NB water block I'm going to put on there and and I think I'll just get an active HSF for the southbridge...no sense in doubling the hell out of my work to get the nb/sb both water cooled.

I did the 680i vdroop/vdrop mod last night and it has allowed me to drop my Vcore voltages considerably... my highest OC has a vcore of 1.375, and at the same OC i'm at less than 1.32V
 
Yeah...just dropped it to 4x, had no discernable impact on performance, and gave me an extra 200 mhz.
 
To get the extra 200 mhz he had me bump the HT link multiplier down to 4 and up the voltage on the HT link just a bit...got me up to the clock I'm at now, no noticeable decrease in speed on anything by dropping that multiplier 1 notch. I found a swiftech 680i NB water block I'm going to put on there and and I think I'll just get an active HSF for the southbridge...no sense in doubling the hell out of my work to get the nb/sb both water cooled.

I did the 680i vdroop/vdrop mod last night and it has allowed me to drop my Vcore voltages considerably... my highest OC has a vcore of 1.375, and at the same OC i'm at less than 1.32V

;) Lol
 
Turtletrax = the man. He's the one who helped me get more out of my chip :)
 
Videomasterz:

If you will, please update my 3325 Mhz OC database entry as follows:

CPU-Z Validation Link:
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=241022

Screenshot of Orthos


Just really a voltage update, 1.32V BIOS, 1.32 Actual. Vcore/Vdroop Mod rocks!

Also I'm now water cooled. - Thermaltake Symphony Mini
 
No dice.
Changing the settings to 4x didn't help get anything more out of the clock speeds.

I think we're dealing with different situations.
You're dealing with tweaking your board and settings with a chip that hasn't hit it's wall.

Mine has a very definitive wall at around 450Mhz. (Slightly less, actually)

I'm not complaining.
I run it at 3450Mhz for daily use and it's still the fastest system I've ever personally owned.

I've lowered my Orthos stable overclock voltage to 1.46v and the temps are always 30c or lower at idle and 50c or lower at load.

Until I make the decision to go through another round of upgrades, this little E6420 has more than beat my expectations and I'm good for now. :)
 
sure jimbean21.. man i have a e6550 i want to overclock it with the asus p5n-e board! but its on a stock heatsink and its hot on guam!!! and its not my processor building it for a friend... booo!
 
Thanks video.

So you think I haven't hit my chip wall yet eh? I thought so myself...but my damn board is limiting me I think...gotta get it cooled better, I've got a swiftech water block and some other stuff on the way to get it cooled properly
 
I don't think that better cooling on your board is going to get you a better overlock. Maybe a P965 board or a P35 would get you the high FSB you're looking for.
 
Do many 680i's (specifically AR revision) tend to get above or around 475 FSB? That's what I'm at right now...seems as though some people are getting 500+ but not many.
 
I don't think that better cooling on your board is going to get you a better overlock. Maybe a P965 board or a P35 would get you the high FSB you're looking for.

I dissagee. Allot of the volatges required to get the MCP/SPP stable are much higher than the stock cooling could hope to cool. While I do agree that a good P35 based board would be a much better platform to go for max clocks.
 
Yes we will :) Too bad I won't be in town when they arrive...frickin UPS sucks.

I'll post my results in about 2.5 weeks, when I return from Miami, and then Chicago.
 
I dissagee. Allot of the volatges required to get the MCP/SPP stable are much higher than the stock cooling could hope to cool. While I do agree that a good P35 based board would be a much better platform to go for max clocks.

Gigabyte P35 DQ6
 
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