the Abit IN9 32X-MAX thread

another pictures with the custom rad support and res support. both of them are lasercut.



If somebody is interested i will upload the Autocad files with exact dimensions and positions for mounting holes and everything. Excuse my bad english but i'm from Romania so english is not my primary language
 
I couldnt find the search function on this forum..........what happened to it?

Anyway I just got this mobo installed in the Antec 900. When I try to start the computer it starts to power up when then shuts down immediately without showing bios or anything on the screen. I get the diagnostics code 8E which according to the book stands for "Check CPU Fan Speed." Cooler Master fan installed and it does spin up when I try to start.

Anyone have any previous problems like this?
 
solaris54 said:
I couldnt find the search function on this forum..........what happened to it?

Anyway I just got this mobo installed in the Antec 900. When I try to start the computer it starts to power up when then shuts down immediately without showing bios or anything on the screen. I get the diagnostics code 8E which according to the book stands for "Check CPU Fan Speed." Cooler Master fan installed and it does spin up when I try to start.

Anyone have any previous problems like this?
Click to expand...

That's really odd. Is the pin configuration for your coolermaster exactly the same as the board headers?
 
It is hooked up to the 3 pin connector closest to the CPU. There appears to be another 4 pin connector closer to the edge of the mobo.
Actually I think it is hooked up to sys fan 1. The other one closer to the edge is labled CPU Fan 1. Do I need to get a 4 pin fan and hook it up to the CPU Fan 1?
 
you need to plug it into CPUFan1 - the 3-pin plug will fit (the header is keyed so that it should only fit 1 way).
Once you have it running if you wish you can then disable the CPUFan header rpm check/shutdown in the BIOS & move the plug to another header.
 
BUFF said:
you need to plug it into CPUFan1 - the 3-pin plug will fit (the header is keyed so that it should only fit 1 way).
Once you have it running if you wish you can then disable the CPUFan header rpm check/shutdown in the BIOS & move the plug to another header.
Click to expand...

That worked but the strange thing is that I then shut down the computer and put it back on the 3 pin sys fan connector and now it works fine.

Anyway thanks for the help.

Now I have having a problem after shutting the computer down it tries to go into the power saving mode all the time.
 
solaris54 said:
That worked but the strange thing is that I then shut down the computer and put it back on the 3 pin sys fan connector and now it works fine.
Click to expand...
If you did exactly as I said (disabled the rpm monitoring/shutdown) that's what it's meant to do so not strange at all.

Now I have having a problem after shutting the computer down it tries to go into the power saving mode all the time.
Click to expand...
I'm sorry but I'm not understanding you exactly here - can you explain more clearly/fully?
 
Anyone who owns this board should definitely do the straight pipe mod. I was really afraid to pop the silent OTES pipes off. Afraid to rip the thermal pads, break my board, bend a pipe, ruin something, as I've never really done anything quite like that on a motherboard before. It seriously took me 10 min, a few tiny amounts of thermal paste, and it was a piece of cake to snap the thing back on. I didn't even take off my CPU cooler! Now my temps dropped 30c lower at idle, and over 40c lower on load!! I've been able to push up my voltages a tad for stability and more ram overclocking, and still never get into the warnings anymore like I used to, even when running the hottest prime95 settings. If you guys want to know how to do it let me know. It's super easy, and the benefits are huge.
 
SirKronan said:
Anyone who owns this board should definitely do the straight pipe mod. I was really afraid to pop the silent OTES pipes off. Afraid to rip the thermal pads, break my board, bend a pipe, ruin something, as I've never really done anything quite like that on a motherboard before. It seriously took me 10 min, a few tiny amounts of thermal paste, and it was a piece of cake to snap the thing back on. I didn't even take off my CPU cooler! Now my temps dropped 30c lower at idle, and over 40c lower on load!! I've been able to push up my voltages a tad for stability and more ram overclocking, and still never get into the warnings anymore like I used to, even when running the hottest prime95 settings. If you guys want to know how to do it let me know. It's super easy, and the benefits are huge.
Click to expand...

Hey, Got a link to where I can get instructions and pics on doing that? :D
 
Okay here goes, I've been digging around the internet and my poor eyes are tired. I need some good OC help from some of the L33t people posting here. I have this board and a QX6700 proc. I have this on air and no mods to the heatpipe.

Currently I was able to achive 3.2Ghz stable. For the processor and 1000 stable for my 8500 ram rated at 1066.

My settings for this are

CPU CV 1.3650
DDR 2 2.2
CPU VTT 1.4
NB 1.5
SB 1.5
Hypertranspt 1.3

FSB @1280 Memory Unlinked

All CPU features Off
Memory timings 5-5-5-15-2T

Bios Rev 13
Ram doesn't run up to spec because apparently running 4 chips at 1066 is something this 680i can't do from what I've been told by abit.

Thanks any help would be appreciated, sorry if this was covered somewhere else in this immense thread but my eyes are shot now and after skimming over 10 pages of it I'm burned out. LOL

TIA :D
 
Lord_Exodia said:
Hey, Got a link to where I can get instructions and pics on doing that? :D
Click to expand...

I've read your post, but I'm working on a big project right now. I'll get back to you with instructions, and a link to pics if I can find them....
 
Lord_Exodia said:
Okay here goes, I've been digging around the internet and my poor eyes are tired. I need some good OC help from some of the L33t people posting here. I have this board and a QX6700 proc. I have this on air and no mods to the heatpipe.

Currently I was able to achive 3.2Ghz stable. For the processor and 1000 stable for my 8500 ram rated at 1066.

My settings for this are

CPU CV 1.3650
DDR 2 2.2
CPU VTT 1.4
NB 1.5
SB 1.5
Hypertranspt 1.3

FSB @1280 Memory Unlinked

All CPU features Off
Memory timings 5-5-5-15-2T

Bios Rev 13
Ram doesn't run up to spec because apparently running 4 chips at 1066 is something this 680i can't do from what I've been told by abit.

Thanks any help would be appreciated, sorry if this was covered somewhere else in this immense thread but my eyes are shot now and after skimming over 10 pages of it I'm burned out. LOL

TIA :D
Click to expand...

I have some ideas for your build, too, but again. I'll need to get back to you. I'm having a fine time with my board, and I think you will too with some patience and some help from the members of this forum. I have some suggestions, but I don't have time to list them right now. I promise I'll get back to you soon though.
 
SirKronan said:
I have some ideas for your build, too, but again. I'll need to get back to you. I'm having a fine time with my board, and I think you will too with some patience and some help from the members of this forum. I have some suggestions, but I don't have time to list them right now. I promise I'll get back to you soon though.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, and Thanks :D
 
Lord_Exodia said:
Sounds good, and Thanks :D
Click to expand...

Ok, here's what I did. It's similar to what people were doing on this thread, but not exactly the same. I recommend you read the whole thread. Here's what I did. Sorry I didn't take pictures. I totally spaced it because at the same time I was helping a friend put a new processor in his rig.

1. Carefully remove heatpipe assembly. Depending on your CPU cooler, you may have to remove it. I have the arctic freezer 7 pro, and I left it on with no problems. It made it awkward, though, because of the weight, so I had to be careful. (If you do remove the heat sink from the CPU, be sure to clean off the old thermal paste and apply new for best results. I'm assuming you know how to apply that stuff, but if not, let me know. I got a link to some excellent instructions)

When I removed my heatpipe assembly I was not impressed. I doubt the wimpy shriveled up thermal pads were even touching my north/south bridge chips.

Here's what it looked like, only worse, in my case. (Photos courtesy VR zone)

1.gif


Those thermal pads are a joke, and so is the thermal pad on the PWM cooler:

attachment.php


(Courtesy of awkward on the Abit USA forum)

These were the temps I was getting:

OCS04.jpg


Yes, those really are in CELSIUS and yes, I was only using THREE CORES!! Scary as all crap! That was with a lower overclock than I have now, too. I couldn't increase nb or sb voltages much at all without getting insane temps. And I now know that I have to increase my southbridge voltage by two notches for maximum stability with my ram and CPU current overclocks.

2. After carefully removing the heatpipe assembly (with the help of some needle-nosed pliers - be really careful!!) I was able to apply some strategic thermal silver paste to each of the five depressions. Just put a tiny amount! It shouldn't heap at all, just barely cover the surface within the depression. You don't want AS5 oozing onto your PWM contacts on the board! I don't think my PWM heatsink had a very good contact at all to the actual digital PWM chip!

3. I actually folded my thermal pads in half, like was suggested, but I put a TINY TINY amount of thermal paste in the middle, just to make sure the surface area of the contact was as large as possible. Again, don't put on too much. You don't want that stuff oozing out. I don't think my thermal pads were actually even touching the heatsinks on my north and south bridges. With them doubled over, they were still large enough to cover the actual nb/sb chips just fine. There's no reason for them to be larger, just thicker is what you need to get that good contact between the chip and the heatsink.

4. I popped the heatpipe assembly right back in, still in one piece with no bends, breaks or other problems. I immediately noticed lower temps, and once the thermal paste settled in they dropped even a tad more. Now I'm getting temps 30c lower at idle, and 40c + lower at load!! Never in the warnings again. Because of that I was able to push past the 3.2GHz mark on my CPU, and push the ram a little harder too. My rig is so freaking rock solid stable right now. Memtest, prime95 on all four cores at 100%, orthos, games, and CS3 are just having a heyday on their new 680i powerhouse, with good looks to boot!

I think you'll really like this board. It's taken a lot of work and a lot of careful patience. As far as I know as long as you don't cut or damage the heatpipe assembly, you won't void the 3 year warranty with abit. Just be careful and this mod will drastically lower the temps and increase your overclocking potential. I wouldn't try to push your components any farther until you get this done.

Also, I have a 40mm fan on my NB heatsink. This seems to help lower temps by about 5c at idle and about 8c at load, but it's only pushing 5cfm. It's silent, but I'm going to get a 40x28mm fan that pushes about 18cfm. It will be a tad noisier, but I bet my temps go down even more. I will also move my 40x10mm fan to the PWM heatsink. It will fit with a slight modification for a solid attachment. I'll let you know when I get that done. Newegg is OOS on that fan I want at the moment.

GOOD LUCK!!!

A side note: what memory (brand/model) do you have, and what are its stock settings for timing and voltage?? DO NOT push your voltage up any more. It's rare, but some have fried their nice memory sticks at 2.4 and 2.3 with this particular board. The memory I'm running is happy at 1000MHz with only 1.95v. I am going to try for 1066 next, and I'll let you know. I just thought I'd warn you just in case.
 
SirKronan said:
GOOD LUCK!!!

A side note: what memory (brand/model) do you have, and what are its stock settings for timing and voltage?? DO NOT push your voltage up any more. It's rare, but some have fried their nice memory sticks at 2.4 and 2.3 with this particular board. The memory I'm running is happy at 1000MHz with only 1.95v. I am going to try for 1066 next, and I'll let you know. I just thought I'd warn you just in case.
Click to expand...

I have kingston Hyper X PC2 8500 4GB (1GB x4) 5-5-5-15-2T @ 1066

Any 2 together will run at 1066 but once I go with 4 no dice. I get them stable at 1000 just like you but I've only tried their recomended voltage for 1066 of 2.2. Perhaps I could lower the voltage down from 2.2 to 1.95 but i haven't tried stepping back yet. I just got sooo happy they got to 1k that I forgot to step back and check for stability.

From the suggestions you gave this sound like a simple enough mod. I'm gonna check for a good 40mm fan from www.frozencpu.com which seems to always have good mods available for chipsets.

You should try and check them too they might have the one new egg is oos on.

Thanks for the info and pics ;)

Oh BTW what are your bios settings and what CPU do you have, I would love to know a stable 3.6 or 3.9 ghz stable bios setting for this specific motherboard with a QX 6700 or any quad core to give me an idea of where the holes are in the chipset and what type of fsb is possible with my specific cpu. I read the xbit article that found all sorts of unexplained holes in the 680 chipset and specifically on this mobo. They just didn't give their bios settings and voltage settings so that kinda bummed me out. I'm hoping you or someone else can help me oc my proc more. I'm thinking this mod will be a good start. :-D
 
Lord_Exodia said:
I have kingston Hyper X PC2 8500 4GB (1GB x4) 5-5-5-15-2T @ 1066

Any 2 together will run at 1066 but once I go with 4 no dice. I get them stable at 1000 just like you but I've only tried their recomended voltage for 1066 of 2.2. Perhaps I could lower the voltage down from 2.2 to 1.95 but i haven't tried stepping back yet. I just got sooo happy they got to 1k that I forgot to step back and check for stability.

From the suggestions you gave this sound like a simple enough mod. I'm gonna check for a good 40mm fan from www.frozencpu.com which seems to always have good mods available for chipsets.

You should try and check them too they might have the one new egg is oos on.

Thanks for the info and pics ;)

Oh BTW what are your bios settings and what CPU do you have, I would love to know a stable 3.6 or 3.9 ghz stable bios setting for this specific motherboard with a QX 6700 or any quad core to give me an idea of where the holes are in the chipset and what type of fsb is possible with my specific cpu. I read the xbit article that found all sorts of unexplained holes in the 680 chipset and specifically on this mobo. They just didn't give their bios settings and voltage settings so that kinda bummed me out. I'm hoping you or someone else can help me oc my proc more. I'm thinking this mod will be a good start. :-D
Click to expand...

I don't have the extreme, just the regular Q6700. You have the advantage of higher unlocked multi's with an extreme processor. I'm running FSB 1333 with a 10x multiplier for a speed of 3.33GHz. I'm using 1.39v on the CPU or something like that. I had to set my southbridge two notches above the lowest setting for best stability, and I had to set the northbridge up one notch, and the hypertransport up one notch too. Still getting decent temps. Make sure you watch those temps like a hawk. What CPU cooler are you using?

Just FYI, there are many motherboards that have trouble running all four sticks at such high speeds. Some seem to do just fine. The difference between 1000MHz and 1066MHz is going to be negligible for you, though. And 1000MHz is still for numbers, good enough for bragging rights. Especially since you're still running it at stock timings. One of my friends has his processor watercooled and overclocked to 3.65GHz, but it's the same processor as me. He's still using a 10x multiplier, just a higher FSB. Both of just experimented a lot. For me my problem was the memory more than the processor for a while. My memory likes just the right amount of voltage. Too much and it throws fits, even just .5v too much it seems. Too little, and it throws fits, too. I think some of my stability errors during the overclocking of my processor were due to my ram, but because I was tweaking the CPU, perhaps I attributed it to that incorrectly. Anyhow. Good luck. I'm going to see if my memory can handle 1066 one of these days, just for fun, but I have a hard time doing that when it's running so good right now!
 
As for fans, I'm torn...

Buy the frozen CPU one here:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...ev_Fan_GM1204PQV1-8A_Outrageous_Air_Flow.html

and pay $4 extra for the fan and $2 extra for the shipping.

Or wait for newegg to have this one in stock:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835221001

Cheaper fan, fan that pushes more are (but is admittedly noisier), and cheaper faster shipping. When I add it to my cart on Frozen CPU and check out they say that the item is over 13 oz. and doesn't qualify for the cheaper USPS shipping. That's bullcrap... No way this fan ways almost a POUND. Anyways, that's why I'm torn. I would really like the newegg fan anyways. Same excellent brand, but pushes a lot more air. I'm not worried about noise if I'm testing max overclocks or benchmarking. This board has excellent fan speed control. I can set it to change speeds based on temperatures - loud if it's maxxed because of heat, quiet for normal running. I bet my chipset and PWM temps will go down at least 5-10c more because it pushes 5 times the amount of air! Plus I'll still be using the 40mm I have now, just on the PWM's!
 
SirKronan said:
Make sure you watch those temps like a hawk. What CPU cooler are you using?
Click to expand...

I have a thermalright SI-120 SE with a 120mm Silverstone Fan. The fan is a bit loud (over 40db) but it pushes some serious cfm's. My temps seem fine but I think my pwm's need to be cooler. The mod may fix that. They don't get as hot as some have reported but they get too hot for my taste.

As for the fans you recomended I actually ordered the one from frozen cpu but found that it was too tall and the retention brackets that the motherboard comes with is meant for one with 10mm height. It also rose to the point where it would bump into my thermalright cooler so I'm keeping this cooler but ordering a new one. I just ordered this one http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2527/fan-23/Sunon_40x10mm_Maglev_Fan_w_RPM_KDE1204PFV2.html

It doesn't push out the cfm of the big daddy I ordered but it'll fit. I just wanted to warn you before you ordered the one you wanted from newegg, make sure it'll fit with your cooler and all. Still on my quest to OC some more.

;)
 
Lord_Exodia said:
I have a thermalright SI-120 SE with a 120mm Silverstone Fan. The fan is a bit loud (over 40db) but it pushes some serious cfm's. My temps seem fine but I think my pwm's need to be cooler. The mod may fix that. They don't get as hot as some have reported but they get too hot for my taste.

As for the fans you recomended I actually ordered the one from frozen cpu but found that it was too tall and the retention brackets that the motherboard comes with is meant for one with 10mm height. It also rose to the point where it would bump into my thermalright cooler so I'm keeping this cooler but ordering a new one. I just ordered this one http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2527/fan-23/Sunon_40x10mm_Maglev_Fan_w_RPM_KDE1204PFV2.html

It doesn't push out the cfm of the big daddy I ordered but it'll fit. I just wanted to warn you before you ordered the one you wanted from newegg, make sure it'll fit with your cooler and all. Still on my quest to OC some more.

;)
Click to expand...

Thanks for watching my back on that one. I know the brackets won't work, but the holes are placed in easy spots. I can mod the brackets or make my own in about 30 seconds that will work on the taller fan just fine, I bet. And my Arctic Cooler is facing the right direction so a taller fan would fit. I am also waiting for the newegg one because it pushes way more air than the one at frozen CPU. I can throttle it down when temps are low to keep noise down. It has the right connectors, and this board has fantastic fan control options. Got any pics to post for us yet??
 
Im not sure it this is the right thread for this post. I notice that some of you have mounted the Zalman 9700 on this mobo. I just got done doing this. Everything went fine and it runs fine but there is one thing that I have noticed that might be normal. If I try to rotate the whole fan assy/heatsink it will turn. The clips is mounted across the bottom of the heatsink with the round mount going into the round hole on the clip. The whole assy feels tight when I check it for tightness up and down but it can still be rotated. Is this normal?
 
solaris54 said:
Im not sure it this is the right thread for this post. I notice that some of you have mounted the Zalman 9700 on this mobo. I just got done doing this. Everything went fine and it runs fine but there is one thing that I have noticed that might be normal. If I try to rotate the whole fan assy/heatsink it will turn. The clips is mounted across the bottom of the heatsink with the round mount going into the round hole on the clip. The whole assy feels tight when I check it for tightness up and down but it can still be rotated. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

What exactly is rotating??? You're scaring me.... Can you post a picture???
 
solaris54 said:
Im not sure it this is the right thread for this post. I notice that some of you have mounted the Zalman 9700 on this mobo. I just got done doing this. Everything went fine and it runs fine but there is one thing that I have noticed that might be normal. If I try to rotate the whole fan assy/heatsink it will turn. The clips is mounted across the bottom of the heatsink with the round mount going into the round hole on the clip. The whole assy feels tight when I check it for tightness up and down but it can still be rotated. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Yes it is normal. Same setup a few months ago in a Lian Li case with QX6700 and Zalman 9700. I was able to hit 3000 MHz rock solid on the hot QX6700.

 
Yes looks like your picture. The whole CPU fan assy will rotate/swivel if I try to turn it.........not real easily though. I also notice my temps are fluctuating between 70F - 80F with the fan at full speed idle.

I still think that it might need a tighter fit. Here is what I think happened.
I did not use the backplate that came with the 9700 since I didnt want to remove the mobo to install it. I instead used the existing backplate. Normally this would have been fine but the problem is that the mounting housing (4) threads are not flush with the mobo and extend past flush maybe approx. 1/16. I am guessing that if I used the 9700 backplate that it would have been flush with the mobo. Can someone verify this?
So this in turn raises the mounting brackiet that the clip attaches to 1/16 inches which translates to less tension on the heatsink.

So I guess my options are to either try and cut off the backplate housing threads so they are flush with the mobo or cut off some of the mounting bracket retainers that the 4 screws go through to bring it lower.

Does anyone remember when they mounted the 9700 if the backplate housing threaded screw housing were flush on the otherside of the mobo or stuck out alittle bit?

This is all mounted in a Antec900.
 
ibm390 said:
Yes it is normal. Same setup a few months ago in a Lian Li case with QX6700 and Zalman 9700. I was able to hit 3000 MHz rock solid on the hot QX6700.

Click to expand...

Thanks for helping him out, IBM. I've never used that particular Zalman before, so your expertise is better than mine! I would use the bracket that came with the cooler, if possible, just so everything lines up. Won't it install properly on this board?
 
Everything is fine with the board and the holes lining up. Instead of the backplate suppied by Zalman I used the existing backplate from another cooler. The 4 threaded inserts that stick up through the holes in the mobo are not flush......they stick out maybe 1/16. Im just wondering if this would have been the same using the Zalman backplate or would if have been flush.
 
Lord_Exodia said:
DAMN I need this LOL flashing now. I will report back
;)
Click to expand...

I have the revision of the 1.4 beta from December. It's been the most stable and overclockable by far. Have to try this one now... results yet anyone???? Better overclocking?? Better Quad 45nm support?? Thanks in advance, and good luck to those of you updating now!
 
SirKronan said:
I have the revision of the 1.4 beta from December. It's been the most stable and overclockable by far. Have to try this one now... results yet anyone???? Better overclocking?? Better Quad 45nm support?? Thanks in advance, and good luck to those of you updating now!
Click to expand...

The flash was a success, I haven't tried any more overclocking as of yet and unfortunately I don't have a 45nm Peryn to test, but the bullet point that it would be more compatible with the 8800GTX alone sold me along with the fact that every bios revision they came out with lately has been better than the last.

If they fixed the Peryn support with this update then that alone is a huge success. I believe a user named IBM390 was able to put his peryn in and test but it wasn't too stable, I wonder if he's available to test this bios out, Not sure because If I'm not mistaken he shelled out $ for a X38 mobo instead. I'm sure we'll find out if peryn will work soon enough ;)

I'll try to go to 3.6 now which no bios revision before has allowed and I'll follow up.

Thx for the heads up on the bios update Buff:D
 
BTW I happen to have version 1.0 of this motherboard, anyone know the difference between 1.0 and 1.1 and if there are any other versions available?


*** Update ***

I have attempted to overclock to 3.6 using the 10 multiplier and I can still not achieve this, I tried different voltage combinations and put my ram at stock 800 speed with stock voltage to get it out of the mix.

I tried the basic 1440 bus so 360*10 and raised the voltage all the way to 1.55 on the cpu.

There is soo much more testing to do.

This may simply be due to a hole at the 360 bus area.

Tomorrow I'll try using 9x multiplier (400x9) If still no go maybe I'll start aiming for a more modest 3.4. :D
 
Lord_Exodia said:
BTW I happen to have version 1.0 of this motherboard, anyone know the difference between 1.0 and 1.1 and if there are any other versions available?
Click to expand...

I don't even know how you tell what revision you have of this board... anyhow. Let me know if you hit 3.6, as I have the same processor and mobo. I would LOVE to know what settings you're able to use to attain such a lofty overclock on a quad core in a 680i. Best of luck. I hope you pull it off. I haven't shot it up that high on a whim yet. I've tried to incrementally climb higher than 3.33, but I'm plagued by those mysterious FSB "holes" people report this board as having. If 1.4 beta #4 fixes some of those, I'd love to push my processor further.
 
SirKronan said:
I don't even know how you tell what revision you have of this board... anyhow. Let me know if you hit 3.6, as I have the same processor and mobo. I would LOVE to know what settings you're able to use to attain such a lofty overclock on a quad core in a 680i. Best of luck. I hope you pull it off. I haven't shot it up that high on a whim yet. I've tried to incrementally climb higher than 3.33, but I'm plagued by those mysterious FSB "holes" people report this board as having. If 1.4 beta #4 fixes some of those, I'd love to push my processor further.
Click to expand...

the revision is on the box. Located exactly to the left of the handle.
 
SirKronan said:
Haha. Thank you. Silly me... any luck hitting 3.6GHz yet?? :p
Click to expand...

no dice but it is probably a hole, I've tried on the 10x multi exclusively tonight, and will try tomorrow at 9x to see if I have better luck at the 400 bus. This motherboard does not seem to like the 360 bus but I've only used this processor so I can't be sure.

BTW I'm very curious about this 1.1 revision, I wonder if they changed the heatpipe to better cool the PWM. If that's the case I'll call for an RMA to get these swapped :D

Anyone have the 1.1 Revision of this board??? :p
 
I still got the Abit board and tonight when i get back home i'll flash the board and install the QX9650 to run some tests. Let's hope that with bios 14 all the past issues are removed. I'll keep you updated.
 
ibm390 said:
I still got the Abit board and tonight when i get back home i'll flash the board and install the QX9650 to run some tests. Let's hope that with bios 14 all the past issues are removed. I'll keep you updated.
Click to expand...

Thank you, IBM. What revision of the board do you have??
 
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