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That's Poland not Estonia he-heif i know polish procedures all of you will take Sentry not earlier than couple years
I think You guys didn't understand me correctly when I said that "we need to know" - it's not about 'getting the knowledge' but waiting for government agencies to classify our product in accordance to their laws so we can calculate if selling to that country is feasible for us or not (as said in my last post).
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Hello SaperPL! Have an interesting question in mind, will be grateful if you can answer me. I want to use XboxWireless adapter for controller with Sentry, to make it fully looks like console. Want to put it inside the case (connect to internal usb2.0 directly). As far as I know metal case will fully block any connetction, isn't it? My second plan is to connect it to antenna and put at the back of Sentry, but if you can test connection, it would be grate (not exactly with xbox adapter, but with wifi, for example. Did metal case between router and antenna hurts connection quality a lot?)
Thanks, I'll find an antenna for it.Yes, metal case will "hurt the connection quality... a lot". Please read something about "Faraday cage", for example this article: link
However Sentry has 3 additional holes above the I/O shield on the back of the case, which are dedicated for external antennas. You can use them for Your Xbox Wireless adapter if it has a socket for external antenna.
I've heard good things about it with a 25mm fan (48mm total height).L9i - 37mm (with fan)
Fits with room to spare but low max TDP. Will saturate easily due to small size.
I've heard good things about it with a 25mm fan (48mm total height).
I have Xigmatek Janus without top fan, its about 47mm. With noctua slim fan it must be greatSo I came up with a list of coolers ~1.5U form factor. Note that the case only officially supports up to 48mm so for anything larger YMMV. Some will fit with a fan, some are heatsinks that may fit with fan removed. With the fan removed you may be able to undermount on some C-Type coolers or do what I plan to try - vent+updraft from positive pressure off the PSU fan. Anyways none of these have been tested but I thought it could be helpful.
Still probably not the best choice for me at least, doubt it will cool an OC'd 6600k
I am looking at the Cooler Master XtraFlo 120 Slim or the upcoming 120x15mm slim Noctua to pump major CFM. Reviews for the 700w SilverStone PSU say the built in 120 is awful+noisy and tries way too hard to stay in passive cooling mode. So I'll probably be swapping that out anyways whether or not I go "fanless" on the CPU.
It's probably way too late at this stage of design, but have you guys thought about adding 120/140mm mounting holes above the motherboard? Using a slim 15mm fan instead of the fan that the CPU cooler comes with could make for a better cooling solution since it would cover both the heatsink and surrounding motherboard components. Making those holes would probably require you to design the panel vents in a way that wouldn't conflict where the fan mounts would be, and you would have to make some assumptions on where the CPU socket would be for most people.
I bring this up because I'm currently thinking of 3D printing some braces that would be secured to the panel using screws/washers through the panel vents that could hold up something like the Cryorig 140mm slim fan.
It's probably way too late at this stage of design, but have you guys thought about adding 120/140mm mounting holes above the motherboard? Using a slim 15mm fan instead of the fan that the CPU cooler comes with could make for a better cooling solution since it would cover both the heatsink and surrounding motherboard components. Making those holes would probably require you to design the panel vents in a way that wouldn't conflict where the fan mounts would be, and you would have to make some assumptions on where the CPU socket would be for most people.
I bring this up because I'm currently thinking of 3D printing some braces that would be secured to the panel using screws/washers through the panel vents that could hold up something like the Cryorig 140mm slim fan.
I was wondering how acoustics would be affected. If one were to install a C7 the fan would basically be up against the panel. So I wonder what would make more noise: a 92mm fan at a higher RPM or a 140mm fan at a lower RPM.
I had quite hectic week so I literally didn't have time to chat with You guys about the cooling.
1) 95W BOX on 65W SKU
From my experience, my first pick for everyone before spending big bucks on cooling would be this:
Intel BOX cooler with copper core - I think it supposed to be 95W TDP since it was sold with 2600K and most of the latter over-65W-TDP chips like my E3-1231v3 and boxed haswell i7's like 4770. If You don't have one, those go literally for 5 bucks in unused condition (with thermal compound untouched like in this photo) from people who bought custom cooling right away.
Those combined with 65W TDP chips are IMO the optimal setup for our case.
2) The not-so-perfect Cryorig C7
Some of You might've noticed that there's something wrong with this picture:
Why C7 is oriented this way and not blowing air to the side?
It's actually quite a big problem with C7 that it's bottom is designed the way it feels like it's obstructing CPU power section when mounted in "the right way for sentry", and initially I thought I cannot do it other way than in the photo.
I was curious though, and after some time I switched the orientation, and during mounting it felt like it was laying on power section and I wasn't sure if it's touching properly the CPU surface. The weird thing is, it works literally the same this way, while it should either not work properly letting the CPU overheat due to improper mounting OR it should work better this way because of the proper airflow orientation.
The second flaw of C7 is that the fan is quite loud in full load when closely facing perforated surface and it's almost silent with same full load in open case. It's kind of obvious but at the same time, what's the point of doing such cooler anyway if it wasn't supposed to be in such configuration. What did they think when designing it?
3) What I think could be the best performer here - Zalman CNPS2X
So most of You probably seen the photos of steam machine prototype disassembly:
And You probably noticed that they've used the Zalman CNPS2X in them and I think that this TYPE of cooler should be the best for performance, silence and compatibility.
Why I think that:
- 120W TDP (performance)
- thick 80mm fan (performance)
- fan away from the cover without radiator fins over it (silence)
- low profile (compatibility)
- not so expensive - costs around $30
4) Other contenders: Scythe Kozuti & Noctua LH-N9i
Last but not least, I'd think about those two:
Some old tests on 2600K show that they perform almost the same:
Kozuti is probably the thing You guys were thinking about when trying to figure out how to mod other coolers by putting the fan below radiator fins. It's also rated 95W and is quite well priced at around $30 while NH-L9i is rated at 65W and costs $10 more. The only advantage of the latter, parameter-wise, is that it's 37mm meaning it'll have better compatibility in our case.
If there are better choices than those, prove me wrong
I have updated the photos and tinkered a bit. I could somehow fit 165mm long GPU with the switch still fitting somehow inside with its pins bent.There were quite a lot questions about using 120mm AIOs over the project progress and I usually responded to them with CAD images, but at some point I thought that I should check it out IRL, since wires and hoses are not something that's easily figured out with CAD.
I've ordered silverstone tundra slim for the test because it was the only AIO that measurements did add up to what we can fit through the central wall.
Here's the result:
Note that while HDD slots are obstructed by tubes, 2.5" drive still fits above the pump/block. I also forgot to put the USB front panel back in place, it fits though.
I think this was one of the hardest builds I ever made, but still, it's doable.
What I had to do:
1) Remove the power switch //EDIT: - currently it fits 165mm long GPU and power switch fits with pins bent to the side.
2) Install the motherboard with water block mounted
3) Put the radiator through the hole in central wall
4) Put fan on the radiator and attach it screw by screws to the rad
5) Ziptie radiator to the central wall and bottom air inlet - temporary solution, I'll try to figure out something better later
I'll make performance tests with EVGA GTX1060 SC 6GB when I get the card next week (I'll see if it fits with this AIO first).
Conclusion:
It's doable but will require different short switch instead of the one are be providing and possibly might require some modding to the central wall depending on the AIO radiator dimensions.
It might be better to pick some AIO with slimmer and softer tubing or make your own hard pipe water cooling.
Pros:
+ makes CPU ~10 degrees cooler both in idle and full load (~30/58 vs 40/68)
+ It's actually silent under full load, not inaudible, but neatly silent.
+ It might do good to the card cooling since it's blowing out the air from the back of the card
Cons:
- you have to figure out what to do with power switch
- you have to use short 170mm long GPU
- you have to use short SFX power supply
- you block the hard drive slots with the tubes and have to put the 2.5" drive above the pump
- it is not an elegant solution and closing the cover requires some amount of force
- It's extremely hard to build and figure out what to do with the hard hoses like the ones of tundra
- your power cable routing is blocked by the radiator
What do You guys think? Any ideas to improve this?
In case no one saw it the person who wrote a review on Amazon for the Thermaltake Engine 27 added an update on his experience using the cooler with a 65W CPU. It performs the same as the box Intel cooler.