Samsung 2333T

Stock, that's why I'm going to be getting a keyboard/monitor stand that I can easily and quickly move, so I can use the samsung most of the time and the dell when I'm playing games.

The only problem is that then the other samsung is too far over for me to use. I usually am using 3 screens... Maybe I'll get a fourth samsung.
 
did some quick input lag tests after i could feel the cursor lags a bit and feels imprecise at the "fastest" overdrive setting

tested at 1920x1080@60hz in clone mode against a crt
looked at about 50 pictures each mode
shutter time was slightly too long (can't lower it on my digicam) but results should all be correct

INPUT LAG RESULTS FOR THE 2333T
Code: 
"normal" = pixel response too slow to be sure
"faster" = 0-1 frames
"fastest" = 1-2 frames

i recommend using the "faster" setting

edit: the results seem inconclusive
 
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dowant120hz said:
did some quick input lag tests after i could feel the cursor lags a bit and feels imprecise at the "fastest" overdrive setting

tested at 1920x1080@60hz in clone mode against a crt
looked at about 50 pictures each mode
shutter time was slightly too long (can't lower it on my digicam) but results should all be correct

INPUT LAG RESULTS FOR THE 2333T
Code: 
"normal" = pixel response too slow to be sure
"faster" = 0-1 frames
"fastest" = 1-2 frames

i recommend using the "faster" setting
Click to expand...

could you make a video of the lag? i am not sure if it's even possible.
 
There is no lag other than the pixel response times in any mode, and there's no significant difference in response times in any mode either. If you used a timer, especially that flatpanels.dk timer, then your results are wrong.

Use this program to get accurate results: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433

When using clone mode with that program, one of the monitors might tear. If that happens, wait for the tearing to drift off the screen before taking a picture. That will give you an accurate result, even with a slower shutter speed.
 
ToastyX said:
There is no lag other than the pixel response times in any mode, and there's no significant difference in response times in any mode either. If you used a timer, especially that flatpanels.dk timer, then your results are wrong.

Use this program to get accurate results: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433

When using clone mode with that program, one of the monitors might tear. If that happens, wait for the tearing to drift off the screen before taking a picture. That will give you an accurate result, even with a slower shutter speed.
Click to expand...
there definitely is lag in "fastest' mode

i could already feel it before even setting up clone-mode
and i tested exactly the same way for all modes
in "faster" there is only sometimes 1 frame lag and never 2 frames
then in "fastest" suddenly over half the frames show 1 frame lag and some even 2 frames
that can't be coincidence

i'll still test it with the tool you linked though
but not today

i'll upload a video on youtube
 
i did some tests with refresh rate multi tool now
according to them it would seem you're right
the tool shows a constant 0.5 frame lag in both modes over 10 seconds
not even gonna upload the vid since its the same frames all over again

still the "fastest" mode feels imprecise and laggy to me
maybe its due overdrive artifacts?
i also wonder how the flash timer could clearly show different results

the display is pretty good in terms of input lag either way
 
i just went to a couple of stores. micro-center and tiger direct in chicago.
the people at micro-center have no clue how to sell monitors. they are all set up with VGA, there is smearing, blurring and so-so details all over the place. Tiger direct had all their monitors with hdmi or dvi.
anyways, i saw the samsung, nice colors vertical angles seems good and sharpness is great. horizontal angle i am not sure, it seemed that some colors were getting brighter seen from an angle, granted it had vga and i was using screen test but not in full screen.
i saw an i-inc 28" monitor and i was well impressed but it had hdmi so cant be compared to the samsung.
overall i am not sure i can get over the 16:9, it really sucks and looks so ugly I just can't stand it. the monitor departments looked like a 16:9 brothel.
I am almost considering the hp 2405 even if I might lose viewing angles and colors. otherwise I have to wait and get a zr4w.
 
XX, I held onto CRTs for a long time and defended them, and still do for some applications. I was one of the few to use 1920x1200, twice! ..

I'm using 3x 1080 now. . . You'll get over it, too. The colors etc make up for it - by far.
 
icor1031 said:
XX, I held onto CRTs for a long time and defended them, and still do for some applications. I was one of the few to use 1920x1200, twice! ..

I'm using 3x 1080 now. . . You'll get over it, too. The colors etc make up for it - by far.
Click to expand...

well i just received an ebay coupon for 10%, so that's just tempting to try to get a 24". but you are probably right, this screen is better than many others. but it is probably up to par with the zr4w.
 
Received mine last night. I'm coming from a CRT, but the ghosting was evident within seconds of Windows starting up. Getting used to it now and I don't think it will be a problem. Text looks fantastic. Unfortunately, it hums so it'll have to go back.
 
Ive always used this website to test input lag http://tft.vanity.dk/inputlag.html ,example from recent test I did between my px2370 vs. Kuro plasma (pic).

You just have to use a fast shutter speed on your camera to reduce the chance of a blurred image with the millisecond timer, or using a flash helps if you cant adjust shutter speed.
 
That timer is the worst possible way to test lag. That timer is the reason why so many sites have inaccurate results these days.

1. That timer is not guaranteed to update at any particular interval. Sometimes it doesn't update for 20-30 ms. Virtual Stopwatch is a more consistent timer, and the bars program is designed to be synchronized with the refresh rate.

2. You can't see where each monitor is refreshing. Both LCD and CRT monitors refresh from top to bottom, but the LCD might be a few milliseconds behind due to the pixel response times. You can't see that when using a timer on one part of the screen. Also, I've seen pictures of plasma displays buffering the output and displaying the frame all at once. That can be seen with the bars program.

3. If you're using clone mode, you can't see if the monitors are synchronized when using a timer. The bars program will synchronize with one monitor, and the other monitor will tear if the refresh rate isn't exactly the same. In that case, the results are accurate enough if you wait for the tearing to roll off the screen before taking a picture.

All those problems combined produce inconsistent and erratic results. A faster shutter speed is not going to fix those problems. In fact, a fast shutter speed makes the picture darker, making it harder to see if a number is just starting to come in on an LCD monitor. The bars program doesn't need a fast shutter speed to be accurate.
 
EDIT: After further testing I would have to agree with ToastyX's statements above.
 
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i tested the 2333t with some first-person-shooters yesterday

imo completely unplayable
not only because of the general blurring
fencing like in my picture is constantly flashing dark and bright while moving
http://f.666kb.com/i/brja9vw9dnc8w6h08.jpg
you better don't have epilepsy trying to play with the 2333t

its still great for surfing, watching movies, reading, programming
very pleasant picture
 
2333t is US only, just like last year the F2380MX was Canada only

Go to your local Best Buy and see if they have any Samsung F2380MX displays left over, which is Samsungs best C-PVA display to date.
 
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microcenter in chicago has this for $150+ tax. if only chicago + IL was not so damn high.
 
$150 at J&R with free shipping.

TigerDirect, Circuit City have it for $150 + shipping
 
dowant120hz said:
i tested the 2333t with some first-person-shooters yesterday

imo completely unplayable
not only because of the general blurring
fencing like in my picture is constantly flashing dark and bright while moving
http://f.666kb.com/i/brja9vw9dnc8w6h08.jpg
you better don't have epilepsy trying to play with the 2333t

its still great for surfing, watching movies, reading, programming
very pleasant picture
Click to expand...

Your issue seems more like a driver or game issue.
 
YELL said:
Your issue seems more like a driver or game issue.
Click to expand...

no it looks perfect on my crt
2333t owners can open the image and move it around in their browser/image viewer to see what i'm talking about
its much worse ingame fullscreen
 
"i am just going to wait. the prices are dropping like pears. "

It won't get much cheaper in any reasonable time period, considering that same-size TNs are $130-$160.
 
taking that image with the fence and moving it around on my Dell vs this samsung, yeah the fence flickers on the samsung and the additional response time blur is evident. For gaming as a primary monitor, nobody has denied there are better choices though.
 
Hey, NCX,

how does this one compare to the f2380mx? Are they available to buy in USA anywhere?? I'm not a fan at all of the shiny enclosure for this 2333t monitor! f2380 looks way better.

Speaking of those, is the f2380 regular much worse than this 2333t? In the reviews the black crush has me worried.

You seem to know a lot about these c-pva models. The deep blacks look cool
 
Both models are available in europe.. and the F2380mx costs nearly twice the price of the 2333T..
 
The MX is a europe/best buy canada exclusive, BB discontinued them last year.

The reg F2380 is not worth buying due to the black crush unless it is just for text, then it shouldn't be an issue.
 
so the mx is totally different and there's no way to tweak a normal f2380 to remove the crush, eh? specs look the same between the two.

the 2333t looks great, but man i really, really hate the samsung shiny plastic styling. who likes it????
 
Is the 2333T an improvement over the F2380 and F2380MX in anyway? I can't seem to find solid info on this. I mean regarding the usual VA suspects (black crush, blurring, color streaking, etc)
And what about backlight bleeding on 2333T?
 
2333T might make a decent secondary monitor for web browsing & movies, good price too.
 
You can use RivaTuner to fix the gamma by eye if you have something for reference, I think Powerstrip works as well.

I felt the MX had sllightly less color streaking over the orignial and it does not have black crush. The 2333t will have the same streaking, less ergonmic options and 2000:1 vs. 3000:1 MX contrast and does not have black crush, I consider this an improvement.

Considering its price point (160$ vs 330$ MX) the lower contrast and lack of ergonomic options is totally forgiveable as the only other options are the 550$+ Eizo models for Southerners.
 
wait, the 2333t doesn't have static 4:000:1 contrast ratio??
also, i guess there is nothing like rivatuner/powerstrip for the mac platform, right?

by the way, have you used the 2333t or just the 2380s?

by the way, if any of you guys can answer:
I have a s-pva 22" model - hp lp2275w. Contrast and blacks are nice, but these c-pva models would be noticeably better in that regard, right? The response time doesn't bother me with what i have now, so are these c-pva models worse in motion blur to an s-pva like the one i would have?

thanks
 
2333T is 2,000:1 according to ToastyX.

No idea about Mac stuff, only used the 2380 models.

C-PVA will look much better than the HP, but will have worse motion.
 
NCX said:
2333T is 2,000:1 according to ToastyX.

No idea about Mac stuff, only used the 2380 models.

C-PVA will look much better than the HP, but will have worse motion.
Click to expand...

Way worse motion which is what gamers should keep in mind if they plan on using this as primary monitor.
 
"the 2333t looks great, but man i really, really hate the samsung shiny plastic styling. who likes it???? "

It looks very nice. Doesn't bother me.
 
i feel like we are beating a dead horse with this lag talk here.
this monitor is not for gamers. :D
 
Can any 2333T owners check how the monitor performs on these tests? its best to view them full screen (F11) and of course your current calibration will affect overall results.

Black levels - Whats the lowest box you can see?

White saturation - Whats the highest checkerboard pattern you can see?

I'm actually considering buying one of these just curious if it has issues with crushing blacks or clipping whites.

On my current PX2370 I can see up to box 253 on the white saturation test (254 blends in with background) and box 2 is barely visible on the black level test (box 1 blends in but before I used magic tune box 1 WAS visible, however the gamma was overkill at the time.)
 
mathesar said:
Can any 2333T owners check how the monitor performs on these tests? its best to view them full screen (F11) and of course your current calibration will affect overall results.

Black levels - Whats the lowest box you can see?

White saturation - Whats the highest checkerboard pattern you can see?

I'm actually considering buying one of these just curious if it has issues with crushing blacks or clipping whites.

On my current PX2370 I can see up to box 253 on the white saturation test (254 blends in with background) and box 2 is barely visible on the black level test (box 1 blends in but before I used magic tune box 1 WAS visible, however the gamma was overkill at the time.)
Click to expand...

black levels: i barely see box 1
white saturation: i barely see 254

both depend a little on the viewing angle
but box 2 and 253 are always easily visible
 
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