Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

My two 2 S Panel's with their new desk mount LCD bracket ^_^ The viewing angles are still perfect from where I sit. I though I might have a problem with them so high up in the air, but it's actually more comfortable then I originally thought. I hadn't seen any 226BW's on brackets yet, so I thought I'd post mine. (Got my brackets in the mail last night, dirt cheap too at $37)
I got two words for you: JEAL-OUS. :D
 
At that angle, the top looks normal, but the bottom looks too pale. You see this best with purple solid color full screen. No matter from which angle you look, the bottom is paler. Believe me, I've tried all possible angles. :)



me too all TN LCD PANEL does that NOT PVI LCD PANEL but these panel are not fast 5 or 8 ms +:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Samsung did announce a different 22" panel which lists for *$599*, the 2280HD which is also 700:1. That might be the panel. Or, it might just be a 226BW with an [hd] TV tuner in it.

Also, samsung doesn't put a lot of effort into keeping their website updated with new products, including those for OEM. So it's entirely possile that there is one.
 
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?


good subject...... anyone have an answer??????????????
 
Well, I got my replacement 226BW today, and it is an 'S' panel! :D

The blotchiness of color that I was seeing on my 'A' panel is all gone. I am viewing the same photographs and DVDs that I did on the 'A', at the exact same contrast/brightness settings. Also, I didn't have a problem with the backlight bleeding on the 'A' panel, but I do indeed notice even less of it on the 'S'.

And no dead pixels on this one either, so I really got lucky. I'm really happy I decided to go through the trouble of RMA'ing the first panel because this one is better.

Cheers! :)
 
Hey folks, sorry if this question has already been answered but I've been reading through the thread and haven't really seen the answer yet. I know some people were trying to get 6500k or close as possible. I feel that the warm setting is kind of close but not quite there. Did anyone find the exact settings? Also, what does magic color do, as far as I can tell it pushes blue way up.
 
Use the Spyder2 profile posted earlier in this thread with brightness / constrast at 72.

The image quality / colors are fantastic on this monitor using that profile.

226bwix1.jpg

Where do I get this wallpaper please?
 
Samsung did announce a different 22" panel which lists for *$599*, the 2280HD which is also 700:1. That might be the panel. Or, it might just be a 226BW with an [hd] TV tuner in it.

Also, samsung doesn't put a lot of effort into keeping their website updated with new products, including those for OEM. So it's entirely possile that there is one.

yes it has a tuner

quote:"The 2280HD monitor will give you an outstanding viewing experience through and through whether being used for desktop publishing, gaming, or HDTV," said Andrew Weis, senior product marketing manager, display products, Samsung Electronics America, Inc. "The SyncMaster 2280HD monitor's versatility to perform as both a television and monitor demonstrates Samsung's commitment to producing the most innovative and cutting-edge technology products."

Beyond its specifications, the 2280HD monitor features a sleek and stylish design, two built-in speakers and a HDTV tuner for crystal clear digital and audio quality, for an ultimate home theater experience. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?

HEY GUYS A LITTLE EFFORT LOLLLLL I AM CURIOUS ABOUT THAT
 
ok, i'm pulling my head of of the samsung gutter for a while.

and I question thee.

Is there no 22 inch LCD that's better than the samsung 226bw and doesnt make you buy panel lottery?

anyone? Coz rather than getting deeper into this gutter, I'm looking for alternatives. Becoz it's really starting to hurt.
 
ok, i'm pulling my head of of the samsung gutter for a while.

and I question thee.

Is there no 22 inch LCD that's better than the samsung 226bw and doesnt make you buy panel lottery?

anyone? Coz rather than getting deeper into this gutter, I'm looking for alternatives. Becoz it's really starting to hurt.

Try the LG L226WT.
 
ok, i'm pulling my head of of the samsung gutter for a while.

and I question thee.

Is there no 22 inch LCD that's better than the samsung 226bw and doesnt make you buy panel lottery?

anyone? Coz rather than getting deeper into this gutter, I'm looking for alternatives. Becoz it's really starting to hurt.

asus......... but more expensive....... pvi panel = less speed 6-8ms.... but no bad angle vision(pvi panel)
 
Try the LG L226WT.

interesting, I'll look that gutter up. I mean ... ahh you know what i mean.

However, recently I've been informally introduced to the HP LCD monitors, and "according" to the hp "expert" (take it with a fistful of salt), it's the BEST LCD panel among ALL PANELS.

has anyone tried it? A HP lcd monitor I mean. Good? Bad? Uber? Abysmal? Gutter?
 
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?



nobody know what the service option is for...?
 
interesting, I'll look that gutter up. I mean ... ahh you know what i mean.

However, recently I've been informally introduced to the HP LCD monitors, and "according" to the hp "expert" (take it with a fistful of salt), it's the BEST LCD panel among ALL PANELS.

has anyone tried it? A HP lcd monitor I mean. Good? Bad? Uber? Abysmal? Gutter?

average
 
Well my first post here is a question as most of my posts will be since I am very much a newbie in the realm of hardcore computer stuff. I bought my 226BW through NewEgg.con on April 8th for $322.98 (-$20 MIR and -$25 VisaRewards discount) with discounts at an excellent total of $282.98. That would have been a great deal if I had received what I was originally paying for, turned out to be just plain misery for me.

What would be the best way about exchanging an 226BW A panel for an S panel?
 
DustyBottomsDA: There is absolutely no way to garuntee it, hence the term “Panel Lottery.” New Egg was pretty firm with me that simply receiving an A panel was no grounds for a return, that the monitor must actually be considered defective in some way. This leads to the bulk of my post….

I've got an A panel from New Egg (shipped form City of Industry, LA), and I've read most of this thread (though I wouldn’t be surprised if I missed something as it wasn’t all in one go) both before and after it arrived. I've got an issue with it that I don't see mentioned here. When I have a few windows open on my desktop (say 5 or more), on the right side of windows positioned on the right side of me screen, I get a single column of dancing brightly colored pixels. I haven't heard mention of it in this topic, and don't know what it could be called to try and look for more information on it. It doesn’t seem to be the same thing as “pixel swim.” I've also been trying out various settings mentioned in this topic and it still occurs. Is it possible it could be caused by my video card being overworked at 1680 x 1050? I have a GeForce 6800GS. Its factory overclocked (I think by PNY) and hooked up with the DVI cable. I tried updating the drivers and the issue is still present. I don’t really think it’s the card, but I wanted to check since I’ve heard no mention of this issue previously.

The monitor has backlight bleeding on the top and bottom that seems a little worse than some of the other A Panel pictures I have seen posted. But what is even more annoying is the bleed from the left hand side. So I get the usual color change from top to bottom due to viewing angle, and also color change from right to left.

Also I’d like to mention that the black dithering is pretty bad. If I configure the monitor such that I can see the top row on the contrast test at http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/, then there seems to be dithering even in 0,0,0 black. Also this is using 73 contrast, 72 brightness, and gunner’s spider profile. Using brightness 89, contrast 55, Green 53, Red 45, Blue 34, Gamma 1.8 (I’m assuming that’s “8%” in the Nvidia control panel) instead, as recommended in another post, everything looks… well, bad. The whites look gray.

Now prior to buying the monitor I talked to a NewEgg sales rep in the online chat, and she was pretty firm that in order for an RMA to be issued on an LCD it would have to be declared defective by Samsung's Tech support.

So I was wondering if this might count as such a defect, or if New Egg was more lenient with their LCD RMA than the sales rep made them out to be? I order the monitor on 3/26 so my time to decide to return it is running out.

Finally, I have to submit the mail-in rebate by April 30th... I haven’t done so yet because I was wondering if doing so (I need to cut out the bar code from the box or something) would effect my ability to RMA.

So do you think this panel is bad enough to get NewEgg to RMA it? Do I really have to call Samsung first? Is it worth borrowing a digital camera to snap some pictures?
 
What would be the best way about exchanging an 226BW A panel for an S panel?
Well, what exactly is wrong with your A panel other than it being an A panel? Have you tried calibrating it,etc.? I think a lot of people see the A and automatically assume they got stuck with a bad panel. Not all A panels are bad. Also, has anyone else gotten a C panel? There hasn't been much mention of them here.
 
DustyBottomsDA: There is absolutely no way to garuntee it, hence the term “Panel Lottery.” New Egg was pretty firm with me that simply receiving an A panel was no grounds for a return, that the monitor must actually be considered defective in some way. This leads to the bulk of my post….

I've got an A panel from New Egg (shipped form City of Industry, LA), and I've read most of this thread (though I wouldn’t be surprised if I missed something as it wasn’t all in one go) both before and after it arrived. I've got an issue with it that I don't see mentioned here. When I have a few windows open on my desktop (say 5 or more), on the right side of windows positioned on the right side of me screen, I get a single column of dancing brightly colored pixels. I haven't heard mention of it in this topic, and don't know what it could be called to try and look for more information on it. It doesn’t seem to be the same thing as “pixel swim.” I've also been trying out various settings mentioned in this topic and it still occurs. Is it possible it could be caused by my video card being overworked at 1680 x 1050? I have a GeForce 6800GS. Its factory overclocked (I think by PNY) and hooked up with the DVI cable. I tried updating the drivers and the issue is still present. I don’t really think it’s the card, but I wanted to check since I’ve heard no mention of this issue previously.

The monitor has backlight bleeding on the top and bottom that seems a little worse than some of the other A Panel pictures I have seen posted. But what is even more annoying is the bleed from the left hand side. So I get the usual color change from top to bottom due to viewing angle, and also color change from right to left.

Also I’d like to mention that the black dithering is pretty bad. If I configure the monitor such that I can see the top row on the contrast test at http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/, then there seems to be dithering even in 0,0,0 black. Also this is using 73 contrast, 72 brightness, and gunner’s spider profile. Using brightness 89, contrast 55, Green 53, Red 45, Blue 34, Gamma 1.8 (I’m assuming that’s “8%” in the Nvidia control panel) instead, as recommended in another post, everything looks… well, bad. The whites look gray.

Now prior to buying the monitor I talked to a NewEgg sales rep in the online chat, and she was pretty firm that in order for an RMA to be issued on an LCD it would have to be declared defective by Samsung's Tech support.

So I was wondering if this might count as such a defect, or if New Egg was more lenient with their LCD RMA than the sales rep made them out to be? I order the monitor on 3/26 so my time to decide to return it is running out.

Finally, I have to submit the mail-in rebate by April 30th... I haven’t done so yet because I was wondering if doing so (I need to cut out the bar code from the box or something) would effect my ability to RMA.

So do you think this panel is bad enough to get NewEgg to RMA it? Do I really have to call Samsung first? Is it worth borrowing a digital camera to snap some pictures?

Just do the RMA through Newegg's website. Don't say anything about A or S panels, and tell them exactly why you are unsatisfied with your monitor. That's what I did. I just described the problem I was having with my A panel(horribly blotchy colors in both photographs and when watching DVDs), and my RMA was done without a problem. The S panel I received as a replacement does not exhibit the same problem, so my first monitor was indeed defective.
 
Just do the RMA through Newegg's website. Don't say anything about A or S panels, and tell them exactly why you are unsatisfied with your monitor. That's what I did. I just described the problem I was having with my A panel(horribly blotchy colors in both photographs and when watching DVDs), and my RMA was done without a problem. The S panel I received as a replacement does not exhibit the same problem, so my first monitor was indeed defective.

Ok so you had an A panel and they replaced it with an S panel? Do live on the West Coast?

Well, what exactly is wrong with your A panel other than it being an A panel? Have you tried calibrating it,etc.? I think a lot of people see the A and automatically assume they got stuck with a bad panel. Not all A panels are bad. Also, has anyone else gotten a C panel? There hasn't been much mention of them here.

Yes I have went through the calibrating/other settings and the thing is that the reason I am not satisfied with mine is that my friend has one of these (this is the reason I bought this monitor) that is an S panel. I used even his exact settings as well. If I had the means I would take his and setup dual monitors to compare the two. Mine almost makes me want to puke on it.
 
Also I’d like to mention that the black dithering is pretty bad. If I configure the monitor such that I can see the top row on the contrast test at http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/, then there seems to be dithering even in 0,0,0 black. Also this is using 73 contrast, 72 brightness, and gunner’s spider profile. Using brightness 89, contrast 55, Green 53, Red 45, Blue 34, Gamma 1.8 (I’m assuming that’s “8%” in the Nvidia control panel) instead, as recommended in another post, everything looks… well, bad. The whites look gray.

So I was wondering if this might count as such a defect, or if New Egg was more lenient with their LCD RMA than the sales rep made them out to be? I order the monitor on 3/26 so my time to decide to return it is running out.

Finally, I have to submit the mail-in rebate by April 30th... I haven’t done so yet because I was wondering if doing so (I need to cut out the bar code from the box or something) would effect my ability to RMA.

So do you think this panel is bad enough to get NewEgg to RMA it? Do I really have to call Samsung first? Is it worth borrowing a digital camera to snap some pictures?
Do what cdmccool suggested. Do the RMA online, but you can do it on the phone if you like. That's what I did. I honestly told the rep what I thought was defective about the screen and they issued me an RMA. My screen had the same issues with the black dithering. I'm waiting now for NewEgg to process my return.

Unfortunately, you've waited quite a while so you're in jeopardy of not making the dates for the rebate and the return. If you cut out that UPC, you can forget about returning it. NewEgg will not take it back. They will not be able to return it to Samsung without the UPC on the box. So, to state the obvious, you're in a quandry. I honestly think your monitor is defective, but you might not get one that's better if you exchange it. You'll probably get one shot at an RMA with NewEgg then you'll be past the 30 day return period. And it's doubtful that you'll be able to wait for another monitor and file for the rebate (there are only 5 business days between now and April 30).

Well, while you've still got your monitor, try out the icm profile created by the guys at lesnumeriques. It's on this page: http://www.google.com/translate?u=h...ews_id-3048.html&langpair=fr|en&hl=en&ie=UTF8. No amount of color calibration will fix your DVD dithering issue though. I tried. I tried for hours.
 
Honestly I was ready to just live with it until that pixel issue started cropping up in the last few days. I don't know if it was there all along and I only just noticed it or what. As for the rebate, I'd rather take my shot at a replacement. I mean, do you really think it could be worse even if I don' get the S panel? I'm under the impression that the panels are the same, but A panel just has a higher chance of being defective. Also another reason I was hesitant is this is my first LCD monitor. I wanted t make sure it was indeed back light bleeding coming from the left and not just a standard viewing angle thing I wasn't used to. (Well, I have used LCD monitors as my college, but they are considerably smaller.)

Edit: Oh yes, note that I didn't necessarily state that I view my own viewpoint on these panels to be correct. It just makes me feel better.
 
It seems the S panels are better calibrated out of the box as opposed to A or C panels. I own a C panel my friend owns an S an honestly after both have been calibrated you cannot tell the difference. Like any product that sells in great volumes some units are bound not to be 100%, and if for whatever reason you feel yours is not return it.
After having read this whole forum I think alot of people are just believing the hype and turning into cry baby assholes. Oh I got an A panel and its so bad.......uh huh....:rolleyes:
Or I got an S panel and its so much better than A panels [even though I've never seen one] :rolleyes:

Get a Grip

.........Or perhaps just return your monitor all together and go suck on your mommies nip you cry baby weiners...

:eek:
 
Get a Grip

If you say so. *grabs & squeezes chucky* Anyway I had an A panel and couldn't get it to look good no matter what I tried. Now I have the LG and the problems the Sam had doesn't exist on this screen. Perhaps I just got a defective screen and it had nothing to do with it being an A but I didn't want to go through the trouble. That HP looks nice too.
 
It seems the S panels are better calibrated out of the box as opposed to A or C panels. I own a C panel my friend owns an S an honestly after both have been calibrated you cannot tell the difference. Like any product that sells in great volumes some units are bound not to be 100%, and if for whatever reason you feel yours is not return it.
After having read this whole forum I think alot of people are just believing the hype and turning into cry baby assholes. Oh I got an A panel and its so bad.......uh huh....:rolleyes:
Or I got an S panel and its so much better than A panels [even though I've never seen one] :rolleyes:

Get a Grip

.........Or perhaps just return your monitor all together and go suck on your mommies nip you cry baby weiners...

:eek:
Before the moderators delete your post, I'd just like to point out that it doesn't sound like you have a defective panel. If you did have a defective panel like Xerian, then perhaps you'd be a bit more sympathetic.

Whether or not Xerain has an A panel is not the key factor in my view. What is relevant is that has a monitor that sounds defective. The type of pixelation he refers to is not going to be fixed by calibration.
 
I was not referring to Xerains post nor was I being unsypathetic to people with problem panels, I was just stating that for any product produced in huge quantities there are bound to be issues with a very small percentage of units.
I just think there is an awful load of whining going on in this forum that is the result of a few peoples experiences, this product comes with a solid warranty if there is something wrong with it by all means take it back and get another.
Theres something to be said for honest feedback as opposed to jumping on the band wagon which doesn't really help anyone.
If I had listened to the tone of discussion here I may have avoided making one of my best puchases to date, my 226BW C panel.
I don't know what warranty is like in other parts of the world but here in Australia if there is a fault with your purchase you notify Samsung Australia who will have a replacement unit delivered to you within 24 hours, I find that type of warranty alone to be pretty impressive. A friend had the graininess problem spoken of in this forum and had their monitor replaced within 24 hours and has had no issues since.
 
change of subject a little in reviews they say that a 2ms is better dans a 5 ms GTG in their test in real life is someone can see the difference in playing games? tyvm

btw for 22 " panel at what distance is the best to see


ty for the 2 answer
 
Thanks everyone for all the useful information here. I decided to get the monitor and make sure that I get the S panel just to be safe. Here are my results in shortened form:
Circuit City : S panel on display C panel in stock
Office Depot: A panel on display A panel in stock
2nd Circuit City: S panel on display C panel in stock
2nd office depot : S panel on display and A panel in stock
Well I got my monitor from the 2nd Office Depot. They had just received their monitors from UPS less than 30 minutes ago and had just put it on display. I believe this because when I called earlier thay checked and did not have any in stock and I saw UPS leave there about 30 minutes prior to me going in( I was in my car while my wife was shopping at BabiesRUs next door b/c the kids were sleeping in their car seats). The manager swapped the A panel they had for the S panel on display. The guy working in that department knew about the different panels on certain monitors. When they hooked up the A panel the manager committed that the A panel was darker at the top and the colors got lighter as it went down. He also said the fonts were fuzzier. They also matched CC price. I left very happy. The manager and employee were very helpful and nice.
On a side note all 4 above stores had 1 display and 1 in stock .
 
I've got an issue with it that I don't see mentioned here. When I have a few windows open on my desktop (say 5 or more), on the right side of windows positioned on the right side of me screen, I get a single column of dancing brightly colored pixels. I haven't heard mention of it in this topic, and don't know what it could be called to try and look for more information on it. It doesn’t seem to be the same thing as “pixel swim.” I've also been trying out various settings mentioned in this topic and it still occurs.

Does your problem resemble this: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1030797994&postcount=1033 ?
In my case it was actually some stupid problem with power cord connection, just try plugging the thing to another socket and see whether it makes any difference. Also try the other things I mentioned in my post and let us know about the result. Definitely do check whether the dots appear on a screenshot obtained via the "Print Screen" button, if they do the gfx card is definitely to blame, if not, it MAY be the monitor.
 
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?




quote to refresh this ...
 
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