Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

Well, I made some adjustments that improved image quality: first I reset to monitor default config, with brightness 100 and contrast 75, then I changed my color profile in photoshop cs3, using now the "Samsung Natural Color 1.0" and it helped a lot, later I changed gamma from 9% to 8%, with nvidia control panel, and the banding disappeared (ok, ok there was a little but much lesser). I'll make some more tests, unfortunately I don't have a hardware calibrator such as Spyder2... anyone recommend a good software?

Thanks


PANEL(A) OR (S) 226BW ?

tyyyyyyyyyyyy
 
oka View Post
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?





pixel shift OFF OR ON? somebody have an idea?


:confused: :confused:

second try .......... please..........pixel OFF or ON?

ty guys
 
Any body use/try the Samsung ICM profile; it's under Nvidia Import; SM226BW.icm.

I really darkens things up, but seems to blur text?

Edit: actually, I kind of like it.
 
I'm going to chime in with my experiences so far with the Samsung 226BW.

I originally bought the LG 226W (The one with HDMI) because I was afraid of the crap shoot that was getting a good Samsung panel. Unfortunately for me, the LG had a bunch of dead pixels, and I found the color was banding A LOT. So I returned, and took my chances on the Samsung 226BW. I opened it, checked the back, and it was a "C" series model. Turned it on, and it was like looking at a star scape. It was stuck white pixels everywhere! I stopped counting at 20 :rolleyes: . So I took it back, and exchanged it for another one, it was another "C" panel. It seemed to be better, no white pixels.... but wait - a red pixel in the DEAD CENTER of the screen! 3 Monitors in a row with stuck or dead pixels!

So I called Samsung instead of going back to Futureshop (AKA Bestbuy), and they are now in the process of shipping me a new monitor. The person on the phone (whom I am sure is just a call center employee and probably not working for Samsung) didn't really do much per say, more or less just said ok, and that the panels they had were made by Samsung (Which I doubt he can verify), so I will make another post when the new one arrives so we can see what happens. Overall, the time I did have with the monitors, I found the Samsung to be better in color quality, and there was much less color banding than the LG, however it seems to me that TN panels must be complete and total crap, and getting a good one is a total lottery regardless of brand.

Honestly, id be willing to spend more money to get a good 22" LCD, but there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of choice out there right now. I did consider the HP 22", however I am not a fan of the glossy screen, they just don't float my boat. Sorry if this doesn't help you decide, just thought I'd add some more information to this growing database on this model :cool:
 
oka View Post
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?





pixel shift OFF OR ON? somebody have an idea?

ALL SAMSUNG FANS WHAT ARE YOUR SETTINGS?

TYVM
 
I've been using my new A panel Samsung for a few days now. I must say it is an "A" panel, and I'll probably return it, but I like it more and more everyday.


But what noticed is that the monitor is way too bright!, It actually hurt my eyes for a while when I first started using it and then I lowered my brightness down to "34" contrast "75", bascially I used the text mode option. And it is much better like this. It is more like my old dell flatscreen.

have any of you really lowered your brightness and liked it better?
 
oka View Post
Please help....

anyone know what the things in service menu is for?

auto auto =on
pixel shift = off (on goole I finded that pixel shift is a new option to prevent screen burn on the new lcd television models, any reason to be off...is broken on this model?)

panel no. ch. = initialy 0 but i find that even this option could be changed if you maintain the menu buton press 2, 3 seconds - the numbers is increse only...1,2,3 etc

now my mon is panel ch. no. = 3

changing this option will reset the counter of "cycle"

what use coul have this opion panel no. ch. ?



in nvidia control panel is possible to create custom resolution...and i tested and the monitor suport in max resolution an refresh of 65, 70, 75 Hz besides the default 60 Hz...it is worth to change on the higher refresh rate or no diferences will be made and only stress the device?





pixel shift OFF OR ON? somebody have an idea?

ALL SAMSUNG FANS WHAT ARE YOUR SETTINGS?

TYVM

Good question, can this monitor do 75HZ at the 1680x1050 resolution? I'd prefer to run it at 75, because gaming will smoother. I thought the monitor can only do 60Hz at the highest resolution??
 
I can only get it to 60hz on the computer that I am using it on for now, but that's only with an analog input. I'm guessing it may be able to perform a higher refresh rate while running on a digital connection, but I'm not sure.
 
But what noticed is that the monitor is way too bright!, It actually hurt my eyes for a while when I first started using it and then I lowered my brightness down to "34" contrast "75", bascially I used the text mode option. And it is much better like this. It is more like my old dell flatscreen.

have any of you really lowered your brightness and liked it better?

Yes, the out-of-box settings are crap. Try lowering contrast to 50 and increasing brightness back to around 89. Contrast beyond 50 is pure evil as it significantly affects colour accuracy by reducing the number of colour midtones.
 
Contrast beyond 50 is pure evil as it significantly affects colour accuracy by reducing the number of colour midtones.

Don't you think the monitor looks like crap with Contrast at 50? The colors look faded and pale. It's like trying to look at the monitor through smoke. The difference is more apparent when you compare that with the default contrast of 75.

I agree that with contrast above 50, you lose all color accuracy. With contrast at 50, you lose all vibrant color tones. There's no winning formula here. This monitor is lose-lose.
 
Don't you think the monitor looks like crap with Contrast at 50? The colors look faded and pale. It's like trying to look at the monitor through smoke. The difference is more apparent when you compare that with the default contrast of 75.

I agree that with contrast above 50, you lose all color accuracy. With contrast at 50, you lose all vibrant color tones. There's no winning formula here. This monitor is lose-lose.

I feel that if I turn up brightness and lower gamma the display looks quite nice including colour saturation, although it really is paler than with some of the presets. And of course it very much depends on one's personal preference. Actually for movies, where colour accuracy is not that important, I use the "movie mode" which is more "vibrant" ;)
 
Don't you think the monitor looks like crap with Contrast at 50? The colors look faded and pale. It's like trying to look at the monitor through smoke. The difference is more apparent when you compare that with the default contrast of 75.

I agree that with contrast above 50, you lose all color accuracy. With contrast at 50, you lose all vibrant color tones. There's no winning formula here. This monitor is lose-lose.

Having the contrast at around 75, say, so you don't lose vibrancy will be fine (well better than having it at 50) for games, right?
 
ALL,

I have a C model and am coming from a SAMSUNG 19inch flatpanel (8ms etc) ...

The 19in panel has been a great screen for me. I have had minimal screen tear outside of a few games (which vsync will fix) ...

I got the 226bw (c Model) on Sunday and was really disappointed in this monitor. I had screen tear watching quicktime movies, pictures are grainy or look a bit blurry. This is at the native resolution. Here is what I have done so far (which has made some difference, but I would have thought with the stats on this monitor, that I wouldn't have to do some of it).

I enabled vsync in my nvidia control panel. This has stopped pretty much all screen tear in anything I do.

I downloaded the following calibrator here: http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp - This made some difference, but I am still not 100% satisfied. Viewing pictures seems hit or miss (somewhat blury etc).

I did download the profile from the internet, but there was too much RED in everything.

I also see people talking about different settings (text / internet etc) .. where do you find these settings? In my 19 inch, it was software driven by magic(something) .. I see that in the menu for the monitor .. is the different settings there? Does it make a difference? How do I return all settings to default?

Thanks,
Crowley
 
I also see people talking about different settings (text / internet etc) .. where do you find these settings?
Hit the MagicBrite button (I think it's the 2nd from the left) repeatedly until it settles on text or Internet.

How do I return all settings to default?
It's one of the menu choices and it's not too hard to find. It's also described in the manual.
 
I actually got a C-Panel from Dell for $87 after all things said and done and I would have to say that compared to the A-Panel I saw at CC, this thing is beautiful. Of course out of the box it was horrible; the contrast was way to high, the brightness was blinding (it was on 100%), mild bleeding, and the colors were all messed up. Once I calibrated it however, it looked so much more vivid and the bleeding all but gone. I cannot speak for the other C-Panels, but this one is not that far behind the S-Panel and for $87 who can complain?
 
I just got mine from Newegg. was shipped from NJ and I got a C panel.

It looks fine, a little bit of backlight bleed. I did some adjustments and I think it looks great.
I think I have a few pixels that are messed up. They arent dead though, just funky. Overall I'm happy with it and im keeping it :)
 
I don't think so!

Calibrated 226BW S:
. . . . . . Goal / Reached
Gamma . 2.2 / 2.2
Kelvin . 6500 / 6507
cd/m2 .. 140 / 140

2.2 for gamma is crap. Calibrating the monitor for 2.2 gives crappy results. Just lower the gamma in your control panel and tell me it doesn't look better.

BTW, thank you very much for collecting all the info about this monitor together. It's really helpful.
 
2.2 for gamma is crap. Calibrating the monitor for 2.2 gives crappy results. Just lower the gamma in your control panel and tell me it doesn't look better.

You seem to be confusing terms here. Gamma 2.2 is the standard sRGB gamma curve and is actually darker than the defaults of the 226BW which is calibrated to approx. 1.8 out-of-box. By decreasing the gamma correction factor in your video card's control panel (from 1.0 to say 0.82) you are increasing the actual gamma from 1.8 to 2.2 thus making the picture darker (and better looking for that matter).
 
You seem to be confusing terms here. Gamma 2.2 is the standard sRGB gamma curve and is actually darker than the defaults of the 226BW which is calibrated to approx. 1.8 out-of-box. By decreasing the gamma correction factor in your video card's control panel (from 1.0 to say 0.82) you are increasing the actual gamma from 1.8 to 2.2 thus making the picture darker (and better looking for that matter).

I guess you know more about it than I do, but here's the question: The settings with Brightness: 89 Contrast:50 claim to reach Gamma 2.2. It still looks washed out and we still need to decrease the gamma on the control panel. If that's 2.2, why doesn't it look like 2.2?
 
I guess you know more about it than I do, but here's the question: The settings with Brightness: 89 Contrast:50 claim to reach Gamma 2.2. It still looks washed out and we still need to decrease the gamma on the control panel. If that's 2.2, why doesn't it look like 2.2?

Oh, now I understand :)
JoopvtG is obviously wrong in concluding that the settings mentioned by him reach the target gamma of 2.2. The default gamma of the panel (even after applying these settings) is approx. 1.8, you need to decrease the gamma further to reach the 2.2 target. I am quite sure that the "miraculous" results he mentions are actually obtained AFTER properly calibrating the monitor using a colorimeter with the HW settings metioned by him being used as a baseline. That's also why I recommended what I did a while ago: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1030893629&postcount=1393 Honestly, I did notice this discrepancy in his reply but simply could not be bothered to react, sorry ;)

Hope this clears things up.
 
Reached the calibration results with a contrast of 50. With the contrast sinking a relatively high brightness attitude of approx. 89 accompanies, in order to reach the desired 140 cd/m ².
Source Prad.de (German), links also in my thread.

What you fail to mention is however that the virtually perfect results ("Goal / Reached") are obtained after calibratig the monitor with the Gretag Macbeth Eye One colorimetric probe and applying the resulting ICM profile, they are not the result of simply adjusting the OSD settings, do you understand? That would be just a tad bit too simple, wouldn't it? ;)

QuickGamma can calibrate your monitor to a gamma value of 2.2 which in conjunction with the automatic gamma correction yields
a linear luminance distribution for every monitor.
More info and detailed instructions on how to use are in the QuickGamma Help button.

With QuickGamma you can see your actual gamma value, and you can calibrate it (My 226BW S is at default pretty close to 2.2 actual 2.19).
To Download QuickGamma (freeware), see my thread under Monitor Utilities
.

Again, you are strongly confused here, JoopvtG. QuickGamma can indeed show the gamma of your monitor however this is only possible once you have applied the correct gamma correction factor by a LUT loader. The number QuickGamma shows is actually 2.2 multiplied by your gamma correction factor loaded by the LUT loader (read from the Windows registry), hence if no correction factor is applied (that is the correction factor is "1") or the correction factor is applied on graphics card driver level instead of a LUT loader it simply shows 2.2 but it does not mean this is actually your panel's native gamma. Also if you load an incorrect gamma correction factor the gamma dislayed by QuickGamma is just pure rubbish.

You have good sources of information however you interpetation of the facts is somewhat misleading at best..
 
Sorry, JoopvtG, but you posts are really hard if not impossible to follow.
What is your point? Where exactly is it you do not agree with my post? Do you know what a LUT loader is? If you read the article by Norman Koren (which I indeed have read myself) you will find out that I'm right..
 
This is really more a generic question about LCD's vs. CRT's in general, but I have been holding on to my CRT because I love the picture quality (I use it for DVDs, games, and general home office stuff). If I were to switch to LCD it would be this monitor. What's the comparison? How can I make a comparison?
 
I decided to use the Sypder2 on my A panel and I am amazed by how much better the monitor looks. I was happy before using the spyder2, and now am even impressed by how much better the colors are.

I think its a must to use a device like the spyder2 to calibrate your monitor, especially if your not happy with the results.
 
I think now everyone agrees that the default gamma of this monitor is too bright and it needs to be lowered. The reason calibration tools work so good on this monitor is because they lower the gamma too. The problem is, if you do it with an external tool on Windows like QuickGamma, video driver control panel or calibration software, you get banding. Banding gets worse as the gamma correction value increases.

Question1: Why didn't Samsung release it with 2.2 Gamma?
Question2: Can we not change it on the monitor via service menu or something, rather than on windows? This would eliminate the banding.
 
Question1: Why didn't Samsung release it with 2.2 Gamma?
Question2: Can we not change it on the monitor via service menu or something, rather than on windows? This would eliminate the banding.

1) No idea ;) But this is what Norman Koren has to say about tha 226BW's native gamma of approx. 1.8: "1.8 is the standard for older Macintosh systems and prepress file interchange", so I suppose this might be the rationale behind it. [ http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html ]
2) The service menu actually does enable you to change the gamma in three steps (mode 1, 2 and 3) however even the third mode with the highest gamma (I have not tried to measure its value visually though) is still too bright AND it incurs banding, so that's of no help either.
 
I decided to use the Sypder2 on my A panel and I am amazed by how much better the monitor looks. I was happy before using the spyder2, and now am even impressed by how much better the colors are.

I think its a must to use a device like the spyder2 to calibrate your monitor, especially if your not happy with the results.



I too picked up a spyder2express and ran the calibration on my C Panel. It made a world of difference ... Color wise and much easier on the eyes . I would say this would be a good investment for anyone .. I still have 2 problems with this monitor though ..



1.) Does everyone get a lot of screen tear in the native resolution? (fixed by vsync setting in the nvidia control pannel)?
2.) if I use the text (and internet I think) modes on the magic bright (on monitor control), my panel makes a high pitched noise ..

Thanks,
Crowley
 
Gah, I really really don't want to buy a calibration tool.. I just play games, I'm not a graphic designer! But I also want good color..I'm going to just try using the video card control panel first and see how bad the banding is.
 
I too picked up a spyder2express and ran the calibration on my C Panel. It made a world of difference ... Color wise and much easier on the eyes . I would say this would be a good investment for anyone .. I still have 2 problems with this monitor though ..



1.) Does everyone get a lot of screen tear in the native resolution? (fixed by vsync setting in the nvidia control pannel)?
2.) if I use the text (and internet I think) modes on the magic bright (on monitor control), my panel makes a high pitched noise ..

Thanks,
Crowley


I get screen tear in games. IS this when you get it? Its because of the low refresh rate of 60Hz. Vsync does correct this, but makes the games run really slow especially in the 1680x1050 resolution. My old dell flatpanel I had the refresh set at 75Hz so it was less noticable but still there.


you get humming from the monitor?? Is that even possible on a LCD..
 
Is that even possible on a LCD..

Yes it is; there's been quite a few accounts of it, actually. I always presumed it was the internal power supply making weird sounds but a lot of people get humming sounds with monitors set at specific settings which makes me believe otherwise.
 
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