Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

Has anybody noticed a color bleed on the letters of the tool bars, especially when they are on line? It could just be my eyes because I did not notice it at first. Sometimes I get a Green and sometimes I get a red. This is only with the black letters. The white letters on the desktop are perfect white.
 
For starters, I'd just like to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I hopped on around page 19 and have been following it ever since. I ordered a 226BW from CC on 2/17. As luck would have it, it never got delivered and was most likely stolen. The tracking number indicated it got to my local post office which is 5 minutes down the road from me but they claim they never saw it. CC has a 15 day waiting period before they'll look into missing items and then an additional period while they investigate. I finally received it two days ago.

I received the "dreaded" A panel but there's not much to dread about it. Here are my thoughts:

Bleeding - the panel has similar minimal bleeding on top and bottom as others have reported. It does have pronounced bleeding on the sides though, which I was very concerned about. However, under normal use it is not noticeable. It’s somewhat noticeable in a dark environment (no lights) when using a dark background, but nothing major.

Banding, dithering, gradient issues – none that I can tell.

No dead pixels.

Color – Color is fine. Nice and vibrant with nothing that looks off. I did not notice a blue push on whites. I applied gunner1’s icc file but may do a little more tweaking.

Viewing angle – As almost everyone has reported, there is an issue with the color changing from bottom to top. Some people felt the colors on the bottom were too washed out. I feel the colors on top are a little too dark. This is definitely a viewing angle thing and not a result of bleeding. I plan on getting an adjustable stand which may help the situation a little bit. I did notice when staring directly in the middle of a white screen that the extreme sides appear a little yellowish. This may also be a viewing angle thing but I might also be able to fix it with some color adjustments.

Image quality – Everything is crystal clear, including text. The one area where this monitor is lacking though is DVD playback. The two DVD’s I tried seemed a lot grainer than when displayed on my CRT. I’ll try playing with settings some more to see if I can get a better picture. Since I watch DVD’s on my plasma anyway though, this is not an issue. I did download one of the HiDef clips and it looked quite nice. I also tried a couple of games and they looked excellent.

If I had one complaint about the monitor it would be its brightness. I currently have the brightness set to 47 and it is still too bright. Again, I’ll have to play around with the settings so that I’m not blinded. The other thing I need to get used to is the increased resolution, which of course isn’t an issue specifically related to this monitor. I like my pictures, videos, etc. nice and big, so coming from a CRT where I had the resolution set at 800x600 is quite a change. YouTube videos don’t quite look the same at 1680x1050.

Finally, not too many posters have indicated where their monitors were manufactured, but from what I recall from those that did, it seems the A panels were made in China (like mine) and the S panels were made somewhere else. I’m not trying to say this has anything to do with a difference in quality, especially since I’m happy with my A panel, but I’m just wondering if all the monitors with the A panel are coming from a single location
 
The "S" that we get in the states is made in China also. The European folks who have gotten an "S" had it manufactured in eastern europe.
 
A tip: Adjusting Sharpness to 16 instead of the default value of 20 makes text much easier to read, especially with ClearType.
 
Some 226bw's shipped to the usa are built in eastern europe.My s model was!Udate!!! Made in China! Sorry
 
I will try to get ride of a defetc blue pixel on my laptop with the above metods. Will tell you if any worked starting with software and going up to push metods.

Edit: no nothing worked at all. Not really suprised since it never worked on no LCD anyway.
 
I found out that the top value for Contrast is 55, if you keep red green blue at default values. Higher than 55 and you start losing light color tones. For example, if you leave Contrast at the default value of 75, people's faces on photographs look strange. Especially the skin tones on photographs that were taken under strong sunlight suffer a lot. Drop it down to 55 and it's OK again. However, you lose a lot of color depth when you drop Contrast below 70. I can't solve this issue.

This has nothing to do with color profiles or gamma. What I've said above is the same with any profile, including the one gunner sent us or the default profile. Check out skin colors on photographs taken under strong light and you should see it too.

It looks like we have to decide whether to have the full color spectrum or lively pretty colors. We can't get both at the same time. It's not a nice choice. We should be able to get both. Any ideas for a solution?
 
7331 said:
I found out that the top value for Contrast is 55, if you keep red green blue at default values. Higher than 55 and you start losing light color tones. For example, if you leave Contrast at the default value of 75, people's faces on photographs look strange. Especially the skin tones on photographs that were taken under strong sunlight suffer a lot. Drop it down to 55 and it's OK again. However, you lose a lot of color depth when you drop Contrast below 70. I can't solve this issue.

This has nothing to do with color profiles or gamma. What I've said above is the same with any profile, including the one gunner sent us or the default profile. Check out skin colors on photographs taken under strong light and you should see it too.

It looks like we have to decide whether to have the full color spectrum or lively pretty colors. We can't get both at the same time. It's not a nice choice. We should be able to get both. Any ideas for a solution?
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Go to CC or Compusa, drop $70 on the Sypder2express, and you'll be fine.
 
dbthump said:
Go to CC or Compusa, drop $70 on the Sypder2express, and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

There's a lot of myth about this Spyder device. People who bought it are trying so hard to make other people buy it too. The problem I described above is directly related to the contrast of the monitor. Does Spyder add contrast to an LCD? Does it turn 1000:1 into 2000:1?

Of course not. I've applied gunner's Spyder profile and it did nothing to the issues I described. It's not a calibration issue.
 
I agree with you 100%. On one of the Colormaster many sites I ran across the same picture that Spyder shows you when it is done. The picture on the site automatically switches back and forth and looks just like the one in the program when you switch it back and forth. Gee I wonder why. I certainly would not recommend for anybody to run out and buy a Spyder2Express. I applied the ICC from my Dell monitor and everything was the same. I am going to try one more thing with Spyder and then that is it. Not going to waste any more time with it.
 
I need some good setttings for this screen!

First of all, I tried the gunner1 icm file in the Display Properties->Advanced>Color Management settings, but it didn't seem to do anything at all, even after reboot. I am running XP x64 (64-bit), so maybe that's why it didn't work? Any ideas?

Also, I think having the brightness and contrast at 73 and 72 as posted, is way too high. Too bright for my eyes. I have them at 51 and 56 now, just eyeballing. Brightness doesn't seem to work as I am used to on a CRT. I would fire up one of the test pictures with different gray scales from 0% to 100% where you are supposed to lower brightness until one of the darkest areas just disappear. On this screen, even putting the brightness to 0 will not necessarily make anything disappear, depending on other settings. Very confusing.

Also, I tried both the Nvidia calibration thing in the Nvidia Control Panel and also tried the MagicTune Premium software from Samsung. They both do something, but I hope that it can be even better, maybe if I could get gunner1's profile to work?

Also, how can I achieve close to 6500K color temperature by eye?
Or maybe by copying the settings of some of you? As I understand it, this monitor has too much blue out of the box?

I am really at a loss about how to get good colors and good white and black levels and gamma out of this screen.

/David
 
7331 said:
There's a lot of myth about this Spyder device...
Click to expand...
I'd be interested in reading about the myth, if you have any links...

7331 said:
People who bought it are trying so hard to make other people buy it too...
Click to expand...
I don't own one, but I am interested in the technology. Besides, get it from CompUsa and there won't be a restocking fee. If it doesn't work you can take it back. It's worth a shot I think.

7331 said:
The problem I described above is directly related to the contrast of the monitor. Does Spyder add contrast to an LCD? Does it turn 1000:1 into 2000:1?
Click to expand...

If contrast directly affects the colors as you see them or the luminosity of those colors, would it not be important to be sure that the colors are correct before you adjust the contrast? I don't know much about LCD technology, other than what I've read over the last month researching my purchase. I'm just throwing that out there for discussion.

If color is like pitch in music, then 440 is A; the mark for tuning all musical instruments. I can assume that color is the same way, and therefore can be adjusted to exactness. Then you can fiddle with the contrast to see if you get better all around viewing.

I had asked the Colorvison rep about contrast, and should I adjust it to preferred before I calibrated. He said use default, and not to adjust it after calibration. I didn't think that made sense though. So I figure I'll just the contrast/brightness to my liking, then calibrate.

7331 said:
I've applied gunner's Spyder profile and it did nothing to the issues I described. It's not a calibration issue.
Click to expand...
From what a rep at Colorvision told me, their software runs in the back ground, so if you don't have the software using the profile work work since the software supposedly edits the registry. I'm going to call again and get another rep to substantiate that claim.

In the end I don't think we can expect so much from a sub-$400 LCD.
 
Colorvision does adjust gamma and white point along with setting the color temp to 6500K. I don't know if this is ALL done via the ICC profile or if they also talk to the video card drivers to do some of this... but that's the reason they recommend calibrating at the monitor default values and not making any video card adjustments after calibration.

I'm not trying to get anyone to buy anything, when I calibrated with the Spyder it made a night and day difference in the quality I get from the 226. If other people want to fiddle with manual controls, more power to them.

No display is perfect and LCDs are far from perfect. Even $1500 professional photo design LCDs have weaknesses inherent to the technology. CRTs had weaknesses too, the difference is the weaknesses on CRTs primarily had to do with geometry and convergence.
 
gunner1 said:
The "S" that we get in the states is made in China also. The European folks who have gotten an "S" had it manufactured in eastern europe.
Click to expand...

What is that supposed to mean? :confused:

So far I see two configurations for the 226BW. I have yet to try it out since I'm still needing a processor.
 
If color is like pitch in music, then 440 is A; the mark for tuning all musical instruments. I can assume that color is the same way, and therefore can be adjusted to exactness. Then you can fiddle with the contrast to see if you get better all around viewing.
Click to expand...

Of course, in music 440 is the main reference point. You change some of its harmonics and there's no change in pitch, but there's change in timbre. So is color. It has a certain frequency and if you modulate some of its harmonic(s) it'll change into some nuance, in its neighborhood or farther out. What I'd like to see is a calibrating program that also has the possiblity to call up color frequencies. In this way colors not only would be able to be tuned to your particular taste, but you'll obtain a far greater gamut in each color's spectrum. Of course, when one tunes an orchestra, there is no point in varying the timbre of the pilot frequency (440). Just use the oboe and there's no nead to use the clarinet. Everyone else has to approach the frequency of the oboe (more or less). Very few people will be right on 440, but there's a small neighborhood of tolerance in the vecinity around it. So is in color, but there taste intervenes more and, after all, the tuner (you) is a single individual with a lot more choice than that of the people in an orchestra.
 
sylva said:
Of course, in music 440 is the main reference point. You change some of its harmonics and there's no change in pitch, but there's change in timbre. ...Of course, when one tunes an orchestra, there is no point in varying the timbre of the pilot frequency (440). Just use the oboe and there's no nead to use the clarinet. Everyone else has to approach the frequency of the oboe (more or less). Very few people will be right on 440, but there's a small neighborhood of tolerance in the vecinity around it. So is in color, but there taste intervenes more and, after all, the tuner (you) is a single individual with a lot more choice than that of the people in an orchestra.
Click to expand...

I guess the point of my analogy was to say this. If a musician is complaining about being out of tune, go buy a tuner.
 
Recieved from Newegg. Usuall Crap UPS style shipping, but contents on the inside are superb.

Except Condition, ZERO dead pixels.

Backlight bleeding is much better compared to my Sceptre X22 Gamer, which wasn't that bad to begin with.
Still wish the 226 has HDMI port.


Newegg Gave me the S panel
secretly content :)

Maybe later I will do side by side photo comparison with the Sceptre x22 Gamer, if anyone wants it.
 
svgtom said:
Viewing angle – As almost everyone has reported, there is an issue with the color changing from bottom to top. Some people felt the colors on the bottom were too washed out. I feel the colors on top are a little too dark. This is definitely a viewing angle thing and not a result of bleeding. I plan on getting an adjustable stand which may help the situation a little bit. I did notice when staring directly in the middle of a white screen that the extreme sides appear a little yellowish. This may also be a viewing angle thing but I might also be able to fix it with some color adjustments.
Click to expand...

Seriously guys, i bought 2 units, but this top and bottom brightness difference in angle is really annoying. The monitor is great, crisp colors and sharp images, however, this viewing angle is annoying me so much so, that i am thinking of returning the 2 monitors. I used the View Sonic VP series for along time, and though the monitors aren't as good as these samsungs, i never had this problem. And since I do a lot of photoshop I cant keep looking up and down all the time to see the best color/brightness renditions to match images.

What have you guys done about this problem? I tried raising the monitor with stands, tried different angles and light settings, but I still couldn't get it to blend in perfectly.

For some reason the display models in CC looked nice and balanced. But I am sure if i try running some desktop graphics, i'd see this problem.

Suggestions???
 
I for one havent seen this difference in brightness or color between the top and bottom!unless im viewing from above looking down or on the floor looking up.Just sitting in front of it with a visual scan i see nothing wrong.Maybe a picture of what your seeing would be helpfull here.
 
The difference in vertical viewing angles is a 'feature' of TN panels it seems.

If so, I don't think you can do anything about it. :(
 
Is anybody using 1280x800? I can't adjust thsi resolution correctly (bad geometry). Show yours parameters (example powerstrip). PLZ
 
Cham said:
Seriously guys, i bought 2 units, but this top and bottom brightness difference in angle is really annoying. The monitor is great, crisp colors and sharp images, however, this viewing angle is annoying me so much so, that i am thinking of returning the 2 monitors. I used the View Sonic VP series for along time, and though the monitors aren't as good as these samsungs, i never had this problem. And since I do a lot of photoshop I cant keep looking up and down all the time to see the best color/brightness renditions to match images.

What have you guys done about this problem? I tried raising the monitor with stands, tried different angles and light settings, but I still couldn't get it to blend in perfectly.

For some reason the display models in CC looked nice and balanced. But I am sure if i try running some desktop graphics, i'd see this problem.

Suggestions???
Click to expand...

ForeStorm said:
The difference in vertical viewing angles is a 'feature' of TN panels it seems.

If so, I don't think you can do anything about it. :(
Click to expand...

So would a monitor like the Samsung 206BW or Viewsonic VX2235, for example, suffer from washed out colours at the bottom, too.
 
Is there a way to change the values of Gamma modes 1-2 and 3? They are all very similar and they are all too high. This monitor benefits a lot from having a lower gamma. Could any way be found to program Gamma 3 to be darker?
 
This is my first post on the forum. I wish to thank you all and say that your comments proved to be of great assistance while selecting my new monitor.

I am on my second unit (S panel) having traded in my original 226bw (S panel) due to a stuck pixel at the very bottom of the screen only noticeable when screen was totally black (display was otherwise flawless). I brought the replacement unit home today, however, to discover that the top of the display is noticeably darker than the bottom when viewing colours/tones other than black or white. Ironically this problem is especially noticeable when viewing the posts in HardForum! The grey is comparatively dark as hell at the top. Backlight bleed seems about even at top/bottom and left/right. I've adjusted the tilt to every possible angle and there's only relief when the monitor's tilted all the way forward. Drag. I have a mixed workload including a hefty amount of image editing and graphic design. Screen consistency is a must for me.

My question: as the first model I had showed not a hint of this inconsistency I'd be interested in knowing whether you think my present unit is worth returning for a third shot? I'm leaning towards yes. I'm frustrated and at this point feel I would almost gladly take back the original unit, stuck pixel and all! Thanks kindly for any insight you might provide.
 
Just goes to show you that if it ain't broke don't fix it. Samsung's policy for a 22" monitor is 17 bad pixels before they will take it back.
 
alexmck said:
This is my first post on the forum. I wish to thank you all and say that your comments proved to be of great assistance while selecting my new monitor.

I am on my second unit (S panel) having traded in my original 226bw (S panel) due to a stuck pixel at the very bottom of the screen only noticeable when screen was totally black (display was otherwise flawless). I brought the replacement unit home today, however, to discover that the top of the display is noticeably darker than the bottom when viewing colours/tones other than black or white. Ironically this problem is especially noticeable when viewing the posts in HardForum! The grey is comparatively dark as hell at the top. Backlight bleed seems about even at top/bottom and left/right. I've adjusted the tilt to every possible angle and there's only relief when the monitor's tilted all the way forward. Drag. I have a mixed workload including a hefty amount of image editing and graphic design. Screen consistency is a must for me.

My question: as the first model I had showed not a hint of this inconsistency I'd be interested in knowing whether you think my present unit is worth returning for a third shot? I'm leaning towards yes. I'm frustrated and at this point feel I would almost gladly take back the original unit, stuck pixel and all! Thanks kindly for any insight you might provide.
Click to expand...


There's no such thing as a "perfect" LCD panel. What you are describing with the top being darker than the bottom is a viewing angle problem inherent to TN panels.

I've swapped this monitor out twice, but I swapped it out due to horrendous backlight bleed (pictures in this forum), I certainly wouldn't have considered swapping out over one bad pixel.
 
Can this moniter be used with a Xbox 360? Looking for a PC moniter but was also need to hook my X360 up to it.

Thanks
 
Wow yeah.. I didn't notice the top and bottom color differences until i was moving trillian around and the IM box was changing different shades on me... bummer.
 
Sha-Zam, After over a week I "Think" I have this monitor adjusted to my liking. I don't notice any difference between the top and bottom, But then again I don't notice too much.
 
I just bought two ERGOTRON NEO-FLEX LCD STANDS for my sammy 226bw and LG-L226WT and they look great!Much better than the stands that came with the monitors.I will tryto post a pic next week.
 
mrzeld said:
YES! THANKYOU! i picked this up at staples and it is working very well on my 226BW. great find! BTW, the one i bought looks nothing like the picture. the base is bigger and seems custom made for the larger 22" monitor even though it says it only supports up to 20". in fact, it could handle a heavier LCD, i had to turn the "springyness" down quite a bit (after turning it up too much) to get it working with the 226BW ("springyness" refering to the height adjustment, you just lift the LCD up and down, no buttons to push).

here is a link to what i actually bought at staples... Ergotron Neo-Flex LCD Stand
33-288-CBL_back.jpg
33-288-CBL_1.jpg
Click to expand...

Previous post of the Ergotron Neo-Flex.
 
I got the 226BW with an A panel about weeks ago from CC. Its been working fine and I didnt have any problems after I adjusted a few of the default settings. Lately however I been having a problem, I usually leave the pc on all day with the monitor off. When I turn on the monitor I get a bunch of small black moving dots around the mouse pointer, the dots then spread to the icons and parts of the desktop making they look like 16bit, it eventually goes away if I restart but sometimes comes back. I also tried playing a video while I still had the dots and I get a bunch of colors on the video window. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Should I just exchange it for a new one? Anyone know if the 30 day return policy includes the purchase date or does it begin the day after? Thanks alot.
 
The problem with the small dots could either be caused by a faulty DVI cable or your video card's drivers. Check the cable and update the drivers.
 
Does anyone know if Newegg is still shipping S-panels? I bought the last one from CC yesterday, but then returned it unopened since it was a 201 wave with a date of March 19, 2007 on the box (which seemed to point to an A-panel). I ordered one from Newegg today with hopes that I would have a greater chance of getting an S-panel. Which model have people received in the last couple days? It looks like S-panels were still being shipped from Newegg as of 3/23/07.
 
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