Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

Got my LCD last Friday from newegg. And indeed, it was a S panel. So far so good. :p

IMG_1033.jpg
 
Does anyone know if Newegg is still shipping S-panels? I bought the last one from CC yesterday, but then returned it unopened since it was a 201 wave with a date of March 19, 2007 on the box (which seemed to point to an A-panel). I ordered one from Newegg today with hopes that I would have a greater chance of getting an S-panel. Which model have people received in the last couple days? It looks like S-panels were still being shipped from Newegg as of 3/23/07.


At least one person recently reported getting an "A" from the Egg.
 
I should get mine in a day or two....ordered Friday.

I wonder how big a batch Egg got of the S panels.

Mine is coming in on the 28th, ordered from newegg on friday, so I'll report back as well.

Also bit on that 8800GTS 640 promo code, couldn't resist. Can't wait to pair it with this monitor.
 
Here are a few pics of my computer command center:) .The Sammy 226bw is on the left and the LG L226wt is on the right.The monitor stands have been replaced with Neo-Flex stands.Both computers are HP computers.





 
The one person who said they got an A panel from newegg is from California according to his profile.

It looks like the west coast warehouse has A panels, and the Tennessee and NJ warehouses have S panels. I have a 226bw arriving tomorrow via UPS from the Tennessee warehouse and I'll be able to validate at least that.

Crossing my fingers for the S.
 
I got one from newegg and yes its a S version. its been 4 days since I have this monitor and I love everything about it. Just one dead pixel on the top left corner no big deal.
 
The one person who said they got an A panel from newegg is from California according to his profile.

It looks like the west coast warehouse has A panels, and the Tennessee and NJ warehouses have S panels. I have a 226bw arriving tomorrow via UPS from the Tennessee warehouse and I'll be able to validate at least that.

Crossing my fingers for the S.


wow....now were really speculating. :D

anyhoo....I'll be getting mine tomorrow or Wednesday, from CA for sure. I'm in Nevada.
 
I need some good setttings for this screen!

First of all, I tried the gunner1 icm file in the Display Properties->Advanced>Color Management settings, but it didn't seem to do anything at all, even after reboot. I am running XP x64 (64-bit), so maybe that's why it didn't work? Any ideas?

Also, I think having the brightness and contrast at 73 and 72 as posted, is way too high. Too bright for my eyes. I have them at 51 and 56 now, just eyeballing. Brightness doesn't seem to work as I am used to on a CRT. I would fire up one of the test pictures with different gray scales from 0% to 100% where you are supposed to lower brightness until one of the darkest areas just disappear. On this screen, even putting the brightness to 0 will not necessarily make anything disappear, depending on other settings. Very confusing.

Also, I tried both the Nvidia calibration thing in the Nvidia Control Panel and also tried the MagicTune Premium software from Samsung. They both do something, but I hope that it can be even better, maybe if I could get gunner1's profile to work?

Also, how can I achieve close to 6500K color temperature by eye?
Or maybe by copying the settings of some of you? As I understand it, this monitor has too much blue out of the box?

I am really at a loss about how to get good colors and good white and black levels and gamma out of this screen.

/David
 
My 2 NewEggg "S" panels were shipped from this CA location.


BALDWIN PARK,
CA, US 03/14/2007 8:03 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
03/14/2007 8:02 P.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
03/14/2007 11:24 A.M. ORIGIN SCAN

Tracking results provided by UPS: 03/27/2007 8:10 A.M. EST (USA)
 
I need some good setttings for this screen!

Try this on for size:

Brightness: 85 Contrast: 55 Red:50 Green: 47 Blue: 44 Gamma: Mode1
Gamma (from your video card's control panel): 0.75

These are the best settings I've been able to find. Contrast could normally be higher, but skin colors start looking strange above 55, so that's the limit. Video card gamma setting is crucial to getting good colors.
 
I just got my 226bw from Newegg. (shipped from California).

UPS got it to Vegas in 2 days.

Its an A panel.

Manufacture Date Feb 2007. China.

On the back, it says 226BW A

To be honest, I've run some pixel and some generic, gray/black and color tests......and I am not returning this monitor. :D

Its as beautiful as long as this thread is.

I'm sure when I get it calibrated properly with Spyder, it will even be better, but this is it for me. :D

*NO dead pixels.

Hurry up R600!

**Oh yeah...the stand (if you can call it that)....blows goat.
 
Just wanna say that this is a really resourceful thread. It's helped me a lot in deciding whether or not to take the plunge on this monitor versus other models. I'm just about there, but I could use a bit more info. Currently I have a Dell 1800FP on a Radeon 9700, both of which I found on the side of the road back in 2004, well the videocard was in the tower. I dismantled it after finding out the guy threw it away because of a realplayer process causing the CPU to stay @ 100% all the time. After I disabled the process, viola...everything worked fine. Figures. Since it had a faster videocard than I had in my own rig, I swapped my Elsa Gladiac 920 GF3 for the 9700 and switched my NEC 19" CRT for the 1800FP and the rest is history. Well, now that it's 2007 I think I've gotten the most use I can expect from a Dell monitor that was manufactured in 2002. I'm looking for a very high quality yet affordable widescreen monitor, mostly for basic use like web browsing, but two other areas that are very crucial is video playback, XVID/DIVX and DVD, as well as color accuracy for CS2 and other imaging progs. The Dell is not bad for the latter, but in regard to video playback it leaves a LOT to be desired. There's pretty much no such thing as black when watching a movie, it's always a dark gray and it hurts my eyes. That's why I'm really looking for widescreen, to eliminate the black bars altogether or atleast as much as possible and since most XVID/DIVX, if properly encoded, have the bars removed, as well as 16x9 enhanced DVDs, I think this is gonna be a great step up from the 1800FP.
So basically, since I've read some bad things about Samsung's monitors and video playback, can anyone recommend a better monitor in the same price range with similar specs? Or am I reading too far into a few bad reviews by some really picky people? I'm thinking if I do order it I'm gonna be thrilled by the difference in terms of video playback, I just don't want to set myself up for disappointment and find that while it's better in terms of contrast and backlight bleeding, it's worse in regard to artifacts and colors. Ok, sorry for the long post, I'm just nervous about throwing down nearly $400 on this thing, since I don't make much money at all right now.
Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to respond to this crazy post. :]
 
OK....to above poster......I really think the S and A may have been a bit hysteria driven.

I myslef bit into it. But after about an hour of use with my A panel....I really think all that is needed, as some wiser poster had mentioned a few threads back...is for the A panel to be calibrated a bit more, and you get equal quality as the S.

I don't know for sure as I don't have an S panel...maybe I'm trying to make myself feel better as I was hoping for an S panel as well...but I really can't find anything bad to say about this monitor at this point in time. color/gray scale/black/banding/pixel...ALL completely acceptable to me so far.

I'd play some BF2 now...but I'm still tweaking away at the colors.
 
stanleyjohn,

I think you were one of the people who said to calm down about the A panels and calibrate first. :D

your link is broke...but I'm assuming it will be for an Ergotron Neoflex. :D that's what I'm looking into now.
 
stanleyjohn,

I think you were one of the people who said to calm down about the A panels and calibrate first. :D

your link is broke...but I'm assuming it will be for an Ergotron Neoflex. :D that's what I'm looking into now.


With calibration the "A" panels are very good, just more backlight bleed than I could handle. If backlight bleeding doesn't bother you then it's no big deal to get an "A" panel.
 
Hi all,

I have just taken delivery of a Samsung 226BW LCD monitor, its my first LCD coming over from an old 19" Sony CRT.

I ordered it from overclockers.co.uk & did a few checks & I have the "S" panel, GREAT!

My question to all owners of this LCD is this:

I have 2 PC's connected to the monitor, my gaming system via the "Digital" & the video capture PC via the older "Analogue" connection, I switch between the 2 via the "Source" button, it works great.

I have run into a slight problem though & I dont know whether its a fault or just a bug in the monitor, I need to know incase its a fault as I can return it.

This is the problem:

When I select the "Movie" setting in the "MagicBright" menu by pressing the button on the monitor if I press the "Source" button to change over to view my other PC it changes over but the display goes VERY dark, it looks like the backlight has turned itself off.

All of the other presets work fine, so after a little investigation I noticed the "Movie" setting sets the brightness flat out to 100%, so I tried doing this & I can now cause the problem, if I set the brightness to 98% its fine, but 100% causes the problem again.

Now im wondering if I have a faulty monitor or whether setting the brightness to 100% is putting stress on the monitor & switching inputs from the digital to the analogue at that level of brightness might be pushing the limits.

I dont want to send it back incase I dont manage to get the "S" panel again, there are no other problems with it as far as I can tell.

Could this be a fault? or does anyone else get the same result if you try this? you have to have 2 PC's connected & use the source button with 100% brightness before the problem happens.

Could it also just be one of those bugs that is happening because of my particular setup? as I said I dont really want to send it back.

Any advice would be appreciated or if anyone can do the same test.

Thanks a lot!
Nick :)
 
Im one of those guys who tried to put some calm into all this A vs S crazyness.Sorry about the bad link!Yes its the Neo-Flex,only $30 at staples.
 
I just got my 226bw from Newegg. (shipped from California).

UPS got it to Vegas in 2 days.

Its an A panel.

Manufacture Date Feb 2007. China.

On the back, it says 226BW A

To be honest, I've run some pixel and some generic, gray/black and color tests......and I am not returning this monitor. :D

Its as beautiful as long as this thread is.

I'm sure when I get it calibrated properly with Spyder, it will even be better, but this is it for me. :D

*NO dead pixels.

Hurry up R600!

**Oh yeah...the stand (if you can call it that)....blows goat.

I do not believe you can return it to Newegg unless it came broke or had at least 8 bad pixels.

Return Policies
This item is covered by Newegg.com's [LCD] Limited Non-Refundable 30-Day Return Policy.

Return for refund within: non-refundable
Return for replacement within: 30 days
There must be a minimum of 8 dead pixels to declare an LCD display defective and eligible for return.
 
Does anyone know if Newegg is still shipping S-panels? I bought the last one from CC yesterday, but then returned it unopened since it was a 201 wave with a date of March 19, 2007 on the box (which seemed to point to an A-panel). I ordered one from Newegg today with hopes that I would have a greater chance of getting an S-panel. Which model have people received in the last couple days? It looks like S-panels were still being shipped from Newegg as of 3/23/07.


The one person who said they got an A panel from newegg is from California according to his profile.

It looks like the west coast warehouse has A panels, and the Tennessee and NJ warehouses have S panels. I have a 226bw arriving tomorrow via UPS from the Tennessee warehouse and I'll be able to validate at least that.

Crossing my fingers for the S.

I received my 226BW from Newegg today (3/27). I ordered it on Sunday night, so basically the order was processed on Monday(3/26). I received an S-Panel that shipped out of the Edison, NJ warehouse. The manufactured date is January 2007 on my monitor.
 
That is very wierd because I live in Southern California and I ordered from NewEgg.

However, they sent me one from TN warehouse (mad cuz took 3 days instead of usual 1)


I still got the S Panel though.
 
Bah, I missed the UPS guy today cause I was out voting and doing my taxes. How stupid of me.

Anyway, thats 2 California A panels confirmed and 1NJ S Panel.

And 1 TN S panel from the poster above me, can't wait for UPS second visit tomorrow for my Tennessee shipment.
 
That is very wierd because I live in Southern California and I ordered from NewEgg.

However, they sent me one from TN warehouse (mad cuz took 3 days instead of usual 1)


I still got the S Panel though.

Yeah, that's weird.

City of Industry is the norm for us in the West Coast....at least that's what I thought until now.

oh yeah...I remember the earlier panels had 226bw [R] 'S' or 'A'

Mine just has 226bw A, no [R]

Not sure if that means anything, but I have no problems with banding, backlight, etc. as previous A panels have *reported.* Only thing was it was disgustingly bright out of the box.

Again. Manufactured February 2007 in China.
 
I bought an A panel on Sunday and was wondering if anyone would have settings that would be optimal for Source games (HL2, Counter-Strick:Source, mods).
 
Just had a question about Dynamic Contrast for this monitor..

I have backlight bleeding on a black screen with the lights out. (Brightness and Contrast are set to 75).

But when I switch to dynamic contrast, the backlight bleeding goes away.

Anyone have any clue?
 
Just had a question about Dynamic Contrast for this monitor..

I have backlight bleeding on a black screen with the lights out. (Brightness and Contrast are set to 75).

But when I switch to dynamic contrast, the backlight bleeding goes away.

Anyone have any clue?

I suppose it's because the panel turns down the backlight significantly on a completely blank screen (that's what dynamic contrast is all about) so there is nothing to bleed ;) Try placing a pure white window on the black background, this should make the bleeding apparent even with dynamic contrast on as the panel will have to turn the backligt up.

BTW I do have what I perceive as quite bad backlight bleeding on my S panel, so I guess it's very much down to personal evaluation of the phenomenon and piece to piece differences between panels. I have not seen any A panel for comparison yet, though.
 
That's why I'm really looking for widescreen, to eliminate the black bars altogether or atleast as much as possible..
So basically, since I've read some bad things about Samsung's monitors and video playback, can anyone recommend a better monitor in the same price range with similar specs?

You can never eliminate the black bars, even with a true 16:9 monitor. DVD's are encoded to 16:9, but most movies are shot even wider than that. To eliminate black bars in most movies you'd need something like a 25:9 monitor, which is nonexistant. Stop worrying about the bars and watch the movie. :) If you can concentrate on the black bars instead of the movie, it means the movie sucks. :) :) Find yourself some exciting movies and you'll for get the bars. :)

In my opinion, this monitor gives perfect image quality once you lower the gamma to 0.75. All monitors come with high gamma and the black point suffers. With a simple gamma correction you get almost perfect black tones.

The only problem with this monitor is that no matter from what angle you look, the bottom is brighter than the top.
 
In my opinion, this monitor gives perfect image quality once you lower the gamma to 0.75. All monitors come with high gamma and the black point suffers. With a simple gamma correction you get almost perfect black tones.

...and banding :p
 
...and banding :p

You got me there. :) That's right, gamma correcting results in a slight banding. That's true for CRT monitors too, but what can you do? Default gamma is too high. When you lower the gamma you really get a big difference.
 
Yeah, that's weird.

City of Industry is the norm for us in the West Coast....at least that's what I thought until now.

oh yeah...I remember the earlier panels had 226bw [R] 'S' or 'A'

Mine just has 226bw A, no [R]

Not sure if that means anything, but I have no problems with banding, backlight, etc. as previous A panels have *reported.* Only thing was it was disgustingly bright out of the box.

Again. Manufactured February 2007 in China.

I forgot to mention though, the wierdest part was that the return address on the box was where i normally recieve stuff from NewEgg.

Whittier California

I got S Panel, 0 dead pixels. ;)
 
You can never eliminate the black bars, even with a true 16:9 monitor. DVD's are encoded to 16:9, but most movies are shot even wider than that. To eliminate black bars in most movies you'd need something like a 25:9 monitor, which is nonexistant. Stop worrying about the bars and watch the movie. :) If you can concentrate on the black bars instead of the movie, it means the movie sucks. :) :) Find yourself some exciting movies and you'll for get the bars. :)

In my opinion, this monitor gives perfect image quality once you lower the gamma to 0.75. All monitors come with high gamma and the black point suffers. With a simple gamma correction you get almost perfect black tones.

The only problem with this monitor is that no matter from what angle you look, the bottom is brighter than the top.

Well, being that this is a 16:10 monitor, that's why I said as much as possible. :p ;)
I'm trying to be realistic, I LOVE widescreen I just hate black bars on movies because it's never truly black and it's distracting...having ADHD doesn't help either. It has nothing to do with the integrity of the film I might be watching. Exciting or not, it just gets on my nerves. It's a mental thing and I'm quite neurotic, or couldn't you tell from my initial post? ;)

Also, AFAIK, you can stretch video to fit 16:10. Hell, VLC even has a setting for this in it's aspect ratio pulldown. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but as long as the black bars aren't hardcoded, like in 16:9 enhanced DVDs, filling up the entire monitor shouldn't be a problem. If you look at Dragontales post on the previous page you don't see any black bars, so it IS possible to eliminate them, even if it means distorting the picture slightly. I don't have any real experience with widescreen monitors, so this is all academic until I can get my hands on one.

Lastly, isn't the brightness viewing angle issue common with most TN LCD panels? Or is it just that it's more noticeable on this particular model?

Thanks for the reply. :]
 
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