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Project: Stargate SG-1
- Thread starter Sobek
- Start date
Shmuckety said:
ColdZero planned to do it but never got around to it I suppose.
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=817667&highlight=Stargate+Atlantis
mrmagoo_83 said:
That would be really great. There are 373 pics for a total size of 36mb. I have no idea how much bandwidth it would take up though. I was using iupload.net before and the pics stayed up about 9 months and out of that time I think the site was only down twice.
I have a MS word file that I copied the entire thread into back on Nov, 29 2004. That was the last update with pics. It's about 40mb and if someone knows where I can upload it I will so that those who haven't seen the pics can along with the entire thread.
mrmagoo_83
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2002
- Messages
- 3,068
rgr that, I dont see why we couldn't give it a go, and see how it works out.
Let me figure out how the heck to setup an ftp access so you can upload them, lol anyone walk me through that? I have CPANEL access and all that.
Let me figure out how the heck to setup an ftp access so you can upload them, lol anyone walk me through that? I have CPANEL access and all that.
SiathLinux
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2005
- Messages
- 270
Can't wait to see this whole thing come together = have been reading thru...
SiathLinux said:
Thanks.
I actually worked on it for a couple hours today. I just went through and picked out the pics that show the most progress and am about to upload them over the next few hours. (May take longer since I have to spend time with the wife!) Expect to see the thread gain about 2 pages with the 140ish pics I add. Afterwards, I will post pics of what I did today. I appologize that my "week or so" turned into over a month. I've been really busy lately.
flat4 said:
Work! C-130's needing their engines worked on have kept me busy and when I come home I'm too tired to want to do anything but play some games (mainly either UT2K4 or Sim City 4 lately) and spend some time with my wife. I've had more free time than usual lately so I returned to the project. I'll try to get on AIM and talk to you soon.
Time to re-upload the pics and inform all new viewers what I did, how, etc. I'm using imageshack for the pics now so theoretically they should last forever.
For everyone else, this will be a review since it's been almost a year since the last major updates.
I'll start of with the supplies I used.
Here is my old Acrylic case from Frozen CPU. You can easily see why I wanted
to change.
For everyone else, this will be a review since it's been almost a year since the last major updates.
I'll start of with the supplies I used.
Here is my old Acrylic case from Frozen CPU. You can easily see why I wanted
to change.
The Case:
The idea for the case (Black Lian-Li PC-61) was to make the inside resemble the inside of a Goa'uld Hatac (mothership). Here are some pics to give you an idea.
Here you can see the bare case masked up ready to be primed.
Primed. You can see an early mockup for size of the PVC resevoir.
Early layer of gold paint on drive cages.
This is the peice of plexi that will eventualy have Stargate glyphs etched on it to resemble the ship walls. I thought of putting actual heiroglyphics taken from the Egyptian Book of the Dead but they were difficult to draw. The glyphs seemed more appropriate anyway.
Here is my mockup of the actual glyphs. I used this to test fit them and to practice etching since I had never done it. I've become proficient at it now.
More of the drive cages and the case after more paint. I let the paint cure 1-2 days between layers.
The motherbaord tray and pieces painted black.
Parts after clearcoating.
The motherboard side has a pice of plexi that was painted black. This was so that I could hide the wires a little easier and I think it just looks better.
I ordered black thumbscrews but they didn't fit so I decided to paint the Lian'Li ones instead of trying to order black ones that do fit.
More of the case after clearcoating.
Since I was going to make an external box for watercooling, I needed a way to get the hoses into the case. I dremeled out a small opening in the back of the motherboard panel. After filing it looked pretty good.
I measured and cut a hole in the top side of the case so that I could run the PSU wires behind the motherboard panel to faciltate better cable management.
I used the plastic stuff used to keep tards from hurting themselves to cover up the two holes I made. It makes it look a lot better. I took a Sharpie to them so that they look better but the wires rub it off easily.
I wanted to try and hide the PCI cards so I cut some plexi and made a "shield." I used some wire mesh to give my 9800 a vent.
Here is the case as it basically still is today. These pics are from last November. The white tape on the side marks my intended window which will have a Stargate on it. I'd love for it to actually be able to move to "dial" an address but it probably will not. I am gaoing to try to make it at least have orange LED's in the chevrons to make it look like an active Stargate.
The idea for the case (Black Lian-Li PC-61) was to make the inside resemble the inside of a Goa'uld Hatac (mothership). Here are some pics to give you an idea.
Here you can see the bare case masked up ready to be primed.
Primed. You can see an early mockup for size of the PVC resevoir.
Early layer of gold paint on drive cages.
This is the peice of plexi that will eventualy have Stargate glyphs etched on it to resemble the ship walls. I thought of putting actual heiroglyphics taken from the Egyptian Book of the Dead but they were difficult to draw. The glyphs seemed more appropriate anyway.
Here is my mockup of the actual glyphs. I used this to test fit them and to practice etching since I had never done it. I've become proficient at it now.
More of the drive cages and the case after more paint. I let the paint cure 1-2 days between layers.
The motherbaord tray and pieces painted black.
Parts after clearcoating.
The motherboard side has a pice of plexi that was painted black. This was so that I could hide the wires a little easier and I think it just looks better.
I ordered black thumbscrews but they didn't fit so I decided to paint the Lian'Li ones instead of trying to order black ones that do fit.
More of the case after clearcoating.
Since I was going to make an external box for watercooling, I needed a way to get the hoses into the case. I dremeled out a small opening in the back of the motherboard panel. After filing it looked pretty good.
I measured and cut a hole in the top side of the case so that I could run the PSU wires behind the motherboard panel to faciltate better cable management.
I used the plastic stuff used to keep tards from hurting themselves to cover up the two holes I made. It makes it look a lot better. I took a Sharpie to them so that they look better but the wires rub it off easily.
I wanted to try and hide the PCI cards so I cut some plexi and made a "shield." I used some wire mesh to give my 9800 a vent.
Here is the case as it basically still is today. These pics are from last November. The white tape on the side marks my intended window which will have a Stargate on it. I'd love for it to actually be able to move to "dial" an address but it probably will not. I am gaoing to try to make it at least have orange LED's in the chevrons to make it look like an active Stargate.
rogue_jedi
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2002
- Messages
- 4,821
whee updating again! recap should be fun...
Electrical:
I had some CCFL inverters that need painting. Blue plastic didn't belong.
The white CCFL's being tested. The large ones will go in the case to illiminate the glyphs. The small ones will go on the resevoir.
I had to round the cube edges on the small white CCFL's. You'll see why later.
My wire extension job for one of the fans. I can't actaully remember now what exactly for. It was sleeved though.
The wires through the cut I made in the top of the case. EVERY PC-60 SERIES OWNER SHOULD DO THIS! (hell, it'l probably work for most cases) This PSU (Enermax 450 IIRC) was working fine till I broke it tring to re-sleeve the wires. I tried to fix it but unfortunately I had to go to Best Buy to get a new one because I couldn't wait a week for one to arrive from Newegg.
The new PSU. I like this one cause it has 2 SATA cords I ended up using when I got my 2 250gig Seagates this past June. (They're in RAID0 and I have no idea looking back why did that. I have 315 of 465 gig free on it alone plus another 111 and 75gigs on my other two drives but they're used up.)
Just to make sure I didn't fry anthing I tested the new PSU and my PC. I also plugged it in to figure out how to route the cables.
That's it for the electrical portion for now.
I had some CCFL inverters that need painting. Blue plastic didn't belong.
The white CCFL's being tested. The large ones will go in the case to illiminate the glyphs. The small ones will go on the resevoir.
I had to round the cube edges on the small white CCFL's. You'll see why later.
My wire extension job for one of the fans. I can't actaully remember now what exactly for. It was sleeved though.
The wires through the cut I made in the top of the case. EVERY PC-60 SERIES OWNER SHOULD DO THIS! (hell, it'l probably work for most cases) This PSU (Enermax 450 IIRC) was working fine till I broke it tring to re-sleeve the wires. I tried to fix it but unfortunately I had to go to Best Buy to get a new one because I couldn't wait a week for one to arrive from Newegg.
The new PSU. I like this one cause it has 2 SATA cords I ended up using when I got my 2 250gig Seagates this past June. (They're in RAID0 and I have no idea looking back why did that. I have 315 of 465 gig free on it alone plus another 111 and 75gigs on my other two drives but they're used up.)
Just to make sure I didn't fry anthing I tested the new PSU and my PC. I also plugged it in to figure out how to route the cables.
That's it for the electrical portion for now.
Heatercore:
I baught a 1977 Bonneville heatercore at Auto Zone for about $20.
I had to make a fan shroud for it so I used some 90* bend Aluminum from Home Depot (I prefer them over Lowes). The X's mark where I cut out.
See how I bent it.
I had to remove part of the Alu for the fans so as to not restrict airflow.
Test mounting fans. Notice how the fan part is white. I'll rectify that soon.
Cutting plexi to make the shroud.
Testing rivet holes.
PLexi painted and testing fan mounting screws.
Had to fix the gaps from the two pieces. It was one peice but it broke but ended up fitting better as two. Used Alu tape to seal the ends. It's not going to be visible so looks don't matter.
Told you I'd fix those white fan pieces. (they would be potentialy visible) I
put the stickers back on for some reason or another.
The finished fan shroud.
Primed and painted the parts that would be visible on the watercooling box.
That's it for the heatercore.
I baught a 1977 Bonneville heatercore at Auto Zone for about $20.
I had to make a fan shroud for it so I used some 90* bend Aluminum from Home Depot (I prefer them over Lowes). The X's mark where I cut out.
See how I bent it.
I had to remove part of the Alu for the fans so as to not restrict airflow.
Test mounting fans. Notice how the fan part is white. I'll rectify that soon.
Cutting plexi to make the shroud.
Testing rivet holes.
PLexi painted and testing fan mounting screws.
Had to fix the gaps from the two pieces. It was one peice but it broke but ended up fitting better as two. Used Alu tape to seal the ends. It's not going to be visible so looks don't matter.
Told you I'd fix those white fan pieces. (they would be potentialy visible) I
put the stickers back on for some reason or another.
The finished fan shroud.
Primed and painted the parts that would be visible on the watercooling box.
That's it for the heatercore.
Ancient Box (exteranl watercooling box for pump and heatercore):
The design for the Ancient Box is based on a prop used on the show. It was first used in season 6's "Sight Unseen" and then reused on Stargate Atlantis in season 1's "The Shadow". The Ancients love to use Orange in their technology for some reason so I did the same for my design. Notice the power crystals sticking out the side cause I used that too.
I also wanted to include the "4 races" mentioned all the way back in season 1's "The Tormant of Tantalus." I found similar font to the ones pictured and etched them in plexi on the side of the box as you will see.
This was actually my second attempted watercooling box. The first was crap and huge. I found this storage box at Home Depot for $10 and thought it would work. The dimensions seemed just right but the box was deffinetely going to get raped by my Dremel.
The first cuts to hold the heatercore.
I saved the peices I cut out cause I needed them again. The rubber handle portion was removed. My tiny ViaAqua pump barely fits.
Testing the 90* bend Alu.
The fans needed some ducts. These PVC pipe bushing were perfect after I cut them down to fit.
The second lid. I cracked the first one going too fast with my jigsaw. ALWAYS CUT PLEXI SLOW and take your time!
Lid and left side panel.
Right side.
The bottom needed to be removed.
I used a PVC cap, a glass rod I broke, and 4 cheap $1 toothbrushes from Wallmart to make the power crystals.
Flat4 gave me his unused Lian-Li fan switch to control the heatercore fans. Thanks again.
This is where the etchings were placed.
Here you can see where I traced the 4 different fonts onto plexi and the 3 sizes of etching bits used on this project. I used the tiniest one here. The medium one was used to etch all the glyphs for the case.
Lining the bottom of the box with a screen door mesh I had. I also riveted in the bottom 90* bend Alu.
Test fitting the cuts for the fan switch and power crystals in the left side plexi piece.
The parts primed.
The box painted and upside down.
The finsihed plexi etching and what it will look like in place.
Almost done.
The bottom. A hole was made for the pump power cord. I forgot to mention that the fans are powered my an AC plug "mini PSU" that I got off of Xoxide for $10 IIRC. I may use it to also power the 6in white CCFL's for the resevoir.
The best solution for filtering the air that was proposed was to use dryer anti-static sheets.
The finished box. You can see the temporary PVC res I made (and never used) as well.
That's it for the Ancient Box. I noticed the other day that the left plexi etching has been pused in at the bottom and kind of jiggles around. It's not very noticable though. I don't think I can fix it since I would have to remove rivets to do so. A piece of the paint has chipped off the middle front as well. I'll have to find a way to cover it up somehow.
I may one day build a newer and better one box. If I do it will probably be so that I can put a bigger pump in and I'm not satisfied with it's boxy shape.
The design for the Ancient Box is based on a prop used on the show. It was first used in season 6's "Sight Unseen" and then reused on Stargate Atlantis in season 1's "The Shadow". The Ancients love to use Orange in their technology for some reason so I did the same for my design. Notice the power crystals sticking out the side cause I used that too.
I also wanted to include the "4 races" mentioned all the way back in season 1's "The Tormant of Tantalus." I found similar font to the ones pictured and etched them in plexi on the side of the box as you will see.
This was actually my second attempted watercooling box. The first was crap and huge. I found this storage box at Home Depot for $10 and thought it would work. The dimensions seemed just right but the box was deffinetely going to get raped by my Dremel.
The first cuts to hold the heatercore.
I saved the peices I cut out cause I needed them again. The rubber handle portion was removed. My tiny ViaAqua pump barely fits.
Testing the 90* bend Alu.
The fans needed some ducts. These PVC pipe bushing were perfect after I cut them down to fit.
The second lid. I cracked the first one going too fast with my jigsaw. ALWAYS CUT PLEXI SLOW and take your time!
Lid and left side panel.
Right side.
The bottom needed to be removed.
I used a PVC cap, a glass rod I broke, and 4 cheap $1 toothbrushes from Wallmart to make the power crystals.
Flat4 gave me his unused Lian-Li fan switch to control the heatercore fans. Thanks again.
This is where the etchings were placed.
Here you can see where I traced the 4 different fonts onto plexi and the 3 sizes of etching bits used on this project. I used the tiniest one here. The medium one was used to etch all the glyphs for the case.
Lining the bottom of the box with a screen door mesh I had. I also riveted in the bottom 90* bend Alu.
Test fitting the cuts for the fan switch and power crystals in the left side plexi piece.
The parts primed.
The box painted and upside down.
The finsihed plexi etching and what it will look like in place.
Almost done.
The bottom. A hole was made for the pump power cord. I forgot to mention that the fans are powered my an AC plug "mini PSU" that I got off of Xoxide for $10 IIRC. I may use it to also power the 6in white CCFL's for the resevoir.
The best solution for filtering the air that was proposed was to use dryer anti-static sheets.
The finished box. You can see the temporary PVC res I made (and never used) as well.
That's it for the Ancient Box. I noticed the other day that the left plexi etching has been pused in at the bottom and kind of jiggles around. It's not very noticable though. I don't think I can fix it since I would have to remove rivets to do so. A piece of the paint has chipped off the middle front as well. I'll have to find a way to cover it up somehow.
I may one day build a newer and better one box. If I do it will probably be so that I can put a bigger pump in and I'm not satisfied with it's boxy shape.
Naquada Reeactor (PVC resevoir):
I wanted to make my resevoir truely unique and fit into the theme. I decided to model it after the Naquada reactor used as a portable power source on the show. I'm going to duplicate in part the glowing effect. I say in part because I can put the 6in white CCFL's in the middle but I can't duplicate the glow on the cylindrical parts. I can't put Blue LED's on the top either for those lights. Here are some pics for reference.
Notice how in these pics the reactor ends slide out. I thought about doing this but am unable to. I build mine like it is already extended.
I first had to cut a PVC reducer to make the base.
Dremeling out for the actual resevoir.
Checking the design. (FYI, this was one of the first parts of the case I started on back in July 2004)
Making the bottom match the design.
Matches pretty well. (look at my monitor just above the PVC screw cap and you can see the "holes" in the pic.
I had to cover some foam balls in Bondo to make the ends of the reactor.
Spot putty to fill in holes after sanding the Bondo.
After wet sanding.
I cut some plastic funnels I got at Wallmart to make the coned portions in the center of the reactor.
Installing hose fittings in the endcaps. The gaps were filled in with plumbers putty to seal and "glue" the fittings in place.
Marking the hole where the PVC will go through. Notice my CLie PDA. It was very helpful and still is in working on the project. I could zoom in on pics and it was easier than printing dozens of pics out for reference.
The hole for the PVC.
Testing the design. I used pieces I cut from extra PVC endcaps (they were like $.50 ea) to make the "ribs."
A lot of hot glue was used to secure the funnel pices in. I didnt want any spaces not filled in since they would possibly case it to bend inward and crack the Bondo I placed over afterward.
Testing the endcap design. The prop on the show has covers that open for connecting cables but it's unecessary and difficlt for me to duplicate them.
After gluing the funnels on.
Bondo on the funnel.
After sanding.
That's as far as I got last year. I have since done more which I will post
soon.
I wanted to make my resevoir truely unique and fit into the theme. I decided to model it after the Naquada reactor used as a portable power source on the show. I'm going to duplicate in part the glowing effect. I say in part because I can put the 6in white CCFL's in the middle but I can't duplicate the glow on the cylindrical parts. I can't put Blue LED's on the top either for those lights. Here are some pics for reference.
Notice how in these pics the reactor ends slide out. I thought about doing this but am unable to. I build mine like it is already extended.
I first had to cut a PVC reducer to make the base.
Dremeling out for the actual resevoir.
Checking the design. (FYI, this was one of the first parts of the case I started on back in July 2004)
Making the bottom match the design.
Matches pretty well. (look at my monitor just above the PVC screw cap and you can see the "holes" in the pic.
I had to cover some foam balls in Bondo to make the ends of the reactor.
Spot putty to fill in holes after sanding the Bondo.
After wet sanding.
I cut some plastic funnels I got at Wallmart to make the coned portions in the center of the reactor.
Installing hose fittings in the endcaps. The gaps were filled in with plumbers putty to seal and "glue" the fittings in place.
Marking the hole where the PVC will go through. Notice my CLie PDA. It was very helpful and still is in working on the project. I could zoom in on pics and it was easier than printing dozens of pics out for reference.
The hole for the PVC.
Testing the design. I used pieces I cut from extra PVC endcaps (they were like $.50 ea) to make the "ribs."
A lot of hot glue was used to secure the funnel pices in. I didnt want any spaces not filled in since they would possibly case it to bend inward and crack the Bondo I placed over afterward.
Testing the endcap design. The prop on the show has covers that open for connecting cables but it's unecessary and difficlt for me to duplicate them.
After gluing the funnels on.
Bondo on the funnel.
After sanding.
That's as far as I got last year. I have since done more which I will post
soon.
Here's what I've recently done.
I covered the bottom part of the res in Bondo.
After it was dry the next day, I sanded and filed down the bumps. I used a scrap of plexi to spread on another coat that was smoother to hide the edge of the funnel.
I have to do the other side and then sand the whole thing again.
I finished etching the last of the glyphs into the plexi about a week ago. I had to go to Lowes (Home Depot is about 25 miles away vs Lowes's 8 miles) to get more plexi. I grabbed a large sheet for general work and a medium sheet for the case window. I cut a matching pice to go behind the glyph piece. Here you can see me lining them up so that I can sand them flush together.
After sanding, I taped up the side I didn't want paint on.
I painted the other side gold to match the case. I added a little clearcoat as well. When finished, the painted side will be against the case so that the other side looks smooth. The etched portion of the glyph plexi will go against the other one. This will give a smooth gold look behind the etchings.
About 2 months ago, I realized I badly needed a workbench in my garage since my house didn't have one. I built this for about $50 (not including the $20 vise from Harbor Freight) and have since added a smaller one to the end with caster on the bottom so that I can move it around when I'm working. If anyone wants to know how I made it, I have the site where I got the general idea and I took progress pics I could make into a worklog if there is demand for it.
I covered the bottom part of the res in Bondo.
After it was dry the next day, I sanded and filed down the bumps. I used a scrap of plexi to spread on another coat that was smoother to hide the edge of the funnel.
I have to do the other side and then sand the whole thing again.
I finished etching the last of the glyphs into the plexi about a week ago. I had to go to Lowes (Home Depot is about 25 miles away vs Lowes's 8 miles) to get more plexi. I grabbed a large sheet for general work and a medium sheet for the case window. I cut a matching pice to go behind the glyph piece. Here you can see me lining them up so that I can sand them flush together.
After sanding, I taped up the side I didn't want paint on.
I painted the other side gold to match the case. I added a little clearcoat as well. When finished, the painted side will be against the case so that the other side looks smooth. The etched portion of the glyph plexi will go against the other one. This will give a smooth gold look behind the etchings.
About 2 months ago, I realized I badly needed a workbench in my garage since my house didn't have one. I built this for about $50 (not including the $20 vise from Harbor Freight) and have since added a smaller one to the end with caster on the bottom so that I can move it around when I'm working. If anyone wants to know how I made it, I have the site where I got the general idea and I took progress pics I could make into a worklog if there is demand for it.
Another update.
Here is another pic of my workbench and the additional one along with the mess that is the project.
Here is the gold plexi piece again ready to be attached to the glyph one.
Before I risk messing up my hard work I want to make sure that super glue (which is basically liguid acrylic or plexi) will be sufficient to join them together. I started by taking some scrap pieces and making similar pieces to the original. That etch doesn't mean anything, I was "doodling!"
I stuck them together and rounded out the edges with the Dremel so that they matched.
I then spread a thin layer around the edges and let it dry. It worked really well and I will be using this method.
While the super glue was drying, I decided to make sure the pieces of plexi for the column along the glyph panel hadn't been lost (one had so I made another one) and that they would fit.
The glue dried and I checked it to see if there were any problems. The glass and pieces are dirty in these pics.
To test to see if I could glue the column pices on top of each other withought ugly streaks, I used to scraps pieces. A thin layer of glue between them worked withought a problem.
I decided to try to see if the etched glyphs would look good if the etches were black so I used a fine point Sharpie on another scrap I etched out. The other piece is used for comparison. This pic is it sitting on my bench with a flourescent light overhead.
The etched piece gets washed out in the previous pic but since it will be upright in my case I took another pic simulating how it will be used. The plain glyph looks better this way. I didn't like the result of the black so it will stay the way it is. I figure if I wanted black I could have just painted them on. It kind of robs the etched look.
Here is another test piece of the height after the column is put on. The column will be etched as well.
I worked on the resevoir today too. I sanded and filled the Bondo I added yesterday some more.
Then I added more to hide the blue edge of the funnel (it's starting to irritate me).
I let it dry to work on the pllexi pices and then came back about 45 min later to sand and file it down. It looks much better now. The bottom is starting to get anoying when trying to fill the gaps evenly. It still needs to be connected to the actual resevoir, Bondo'd up some more and then spot filled with putty to smooth out the imperfections.
I baught two 36in long lengths of Aluminum rod the other day at Lowes for the res. I need eight 6in long lengths.
You can see where these go and if you reference it to the pics posted earlier from the show, you see how they fit into the design. (Sorry about the lighting in the second one.)
I held the 6in CCFL up in the middle for this one.
That's it for today. I noticed tonight that Navarre Beach is actually open and since the red tide we had is gone, my wife and I are going to try and go tomorrow afternoon so don't expect any updates to the project. BTW, I'm surprised no one has commented on the log being updated yet but I do this for myself, not for the attention so oh well.
Here is another pic of my workbench and the additional one along with the mess that is the project.
Here is the gold plexi piece again ready to be attached to the glyph one.
Before I risk messing up my hard work I want to make sure that super glue (which is basically liguid acrylic or plexi) will be sufficient to join them together. I started by taking some scrap pieces and making similar pieces to the original. That etch doesn't mean anything, I was "doodling!"
I stuck them together and rounded out the edges with the Dremel so that they matched.
I then spread a thin layer around the edges and let it dry. It worked really well and I will be using this method.
While the super glue was drying, I decided to make sure the pieces of plexi for the column along the glyph panel hadn't been lost (one had so I made another one) and that they would fit.
The glue dried and I checked it to see if there were any problems. The glass and pieces are dirty in these pics.
To test to see if I could glue the column pices on top of each other withought ugly streaks, I used to scraps pieces. A thin layer of glue between them worked withought a problem.
I decided to try to see if the etched glyphs would look good if the etches were black so I used a fine point Sharpie on another scrap I etched out. The other piece is used for comparison. This pic is it sitting on my bench with a flourescent light overhead.
The etched piece gets washed out in the previous pic but since it will be upright in my case I took another pic simulating how it will be used. The plain glyph looks better this way. I didn't like the result of the black so it will stay the way it is. I figure if I wanted black I could have just painted them on. It kind of robs the etched look.
Here is another test piece of the height after the column is put on. The column will be etched as well.
I worked on the resevoir today too. I sanded and filled the Bondo I added yesterday some more.
Then I added more to hide the blue edge of the funnel (it's starting to irritate me).
I let it dry to work on the pllexi pices and then came back about 45 min later to sand and file it down. It looks much better now. The bottom is starting to get anoying when trying to fill the gaps evenly. It still needs to be connected to the actual resevoir, Bondo'd up some more and then spot filled with putty to smooth out the imperfections.
I baught two 36in long lengths of Aluminum rod the other day at Lowes for the res. I need eight 6in long lengths.
You can see where these go and if you reference it to the pics posted earlier from the show, you see how they fit into the design. (Sorry about the lighting in the second one.)
I held the 6in CCFL up in the middle for this one.
That's it for today. I noticed tonight that Navarre Beach is actually open and since the red tide we had is gone, my wife and I are going to try and go tomorrow afternoon so don't expect any updates to the project. BTW, I'm surprised no one has commented on the log being updated yet but I do this for myself, not for the attention so oh well.
rogue_jedi
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2002
- Messages
- 4,821
i posted that in the middle of your updates ^.^ i started loading this thread, then realized "uh-oh, lots more pics to load" last night (was playing a game, so i didn't wanna mess it up that muchrogue_jedi said:
)looking very nice, and i agree with you about the etching. light it, maybe, but don't color it in.
rogue_jedi said:i posted that in the middle of your updates ^.^ i started loading this thread, then realized "uh-oh, lots more pics to load" last night (was playing a game, so i didn't wanna mess it up that much
looking very nice, and i agree with you about the etching. light it, maybe, but don't color it in.
yeah, I noticed your post when I went back reading through to see if there were any mistakes. Thanks for waiting till I was done updating.
There will be 2 white CCFL's in the case to illuminate the panels.
Minor Update:
I did go to the beach today but I also worked on the project a little. I Dremel'd all those little plexi pieces for the column the same size and ended up loosing three in the process so I have to make a few more. I just finished Bondoing one of the small blue funnels for the res. I took some pics that I'll probably wait to upload tomorrow with another update.
CrimsonSky
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2003
- Messages
- 711
The repro of the device is looking great--clever use of materials--I'm glad this project is revived too
Thanks CrimsonSky. That means a lot coming from you. I can't think of any mods the past few years here that have taken as long as yours and mine. Congrats on getting married.
I'm going to spend the afternoon working on the project so I'll try to post the updates later on tonight.
I'm going to spend the afternoon working on the project so I'll try to post the updates later on tonight.
Update:
Here are the pics from the other day. First we have the large column pieces for the glyph wall clamped together so that they can be sanded down to the same size. I accidently lost a few of them and had to make more.
Here is the first of the two small cone things for the res that I applied Bondo to.
Here you can see checking the placement of all the column pieces and making sure everything is set up correctly. They ended up being a little smaller than my original sketch last year but it doesn't really matter.
These smaller pieces turned into a PITA (pain in the ass!). I lost 3 when the clamp snapped and they went flying everywhere so I had to make more. A few broke in half and some of them were cracked so I made a few more. I ended up just getting tired of trying to make them perfectly and decided I would use the few slightly cracked ones near the bottom where they would be less visible if at all. This pic is of the lines I drew where I had to etch into the pieces. Halfway through them, I broke the tiny etching bit...again. This was the second one of this size I had broken. That's why I haven't updated the past 2 days.
Today's update is next.
Here are the pics from the other day. First we have the large column pieces for the glyph wall clamped together so that they can be sanded down to the same size. I accidently lost a few of them and had to make more.
Here is the first of the two small cone things for the res that I applied Bondo to.
Here you can see checking the placement of all the column pieces and making sure everything is set up correctly. They ended up being a little smaller than my original sketch last year but it doesn't really matter.
These smaller pieces turned into a PITA (pain in the ass!). I lost 3 when the clamp snapped and they went flying everywhere so I had to make more. A few broke in half and some of them were cracked so I made a few more. I ended up just getting tired of trying to make them perfectly and decided I would use the few slightly cracked ones near the bottom where they would be less visible if at all. This pic is of the lines I drew where I had to etch into the pieces. Halfway through them, I broke the tiny etching bit...again. This was the second one of this size I had broken. That's why I haven't updated the past 2 days.
Today's update is next.
Yesterday I went to Wallmart and baught 3 more of the tiny Dremel #105 etching bits. They only cost about $2.60 ea. I picked up a decent Level and some jigsaw bits meant for metal but work fine on plexi (they were cheap and I figured it was a good thing to have). I grabbed one of those diamond tipped bit sets too since they were cheap and I may find a need for them.
I cant stand clutter and my work area was in desperate need of some loving and I wanted more room. Just look at this mess.
I got rid of that chair, started moving stuff around and assembled this shelf I grabbed at Walmart yesterday, which was only $12. (Wallmart can be a goldmine of cheap and usefull modding supplies and tools.)
Wow, What a difference!
Enough about my garage, you want updates on the mod.
Since I now had new etching bits, I finished the small pieces and got ready to glue them down. I used rubbing alcohol and Endust for Electronics to wipe away all the dirt on the plexi and wore latex gloves to prevent fingerprints.
I clamped down the plexi and began gluing the pieces with 4 of them clamped down to dry at a time.
Once they were dry, I started with the smaller pieces. The etched side faces up since I didn't want the glue to fill it in and possibly cause problems plus it looks more accurate to the show this way.
Here they are all finished. I peeled back part of the gold pice and placed it bihind the column to give you an ide what it looks like. I'll have to wait till it's completely finished and in my case before I decide whether it looks good enough to stay. If not, I'll use the jigsaw to cut it free from the rest of the glyph wall.
I started preping the two pieces to be glued together. I used endust to remove all dust from both of them.
All clamped up and ready for the edges to be sanded flush with the Dremel.
Started gluing with super glue (cyno-acrylate).
This side is finished.
While waiting for some of the glue to dry, I filed and sanded the first Bondo'd cone for the res.
Here is a test fit.
That's it for today. I'll try to finish the glyph wall tomorrow and do more work on the res.
I cant stand clutter and my work area was in desperate need of some loving and I wanted more room. Just look at this mess.
I got rid of that chair, started moving stuff around and assembled this shelf I grabbed at Walmart yesterday, which was only $12. (Wallmart can be a goldmine of cheap and usefull modding supplies and tools.)
Wow, What a difference!
Enough about my garage, you want updates on the mod.
Since I now had new etching bits, I finished the small pieces and got ready to glue them down. I used rubbing alcohol and Endust for Electronics to wipe away all the dirt on the plexi and wore latex gloves to prevent fingerprints.
I clamped down the plexi and began gluing the pieces with 4 of them clamped down to dry at a time.
Once they were dry, I started with the smaller pieces. The etched side faces up since I didn't want the glue to fill it in and possibly cause problems plus it looks more accurate to the show this way.
Here they are all finished. I peeled back part of the gold pice and placed it bihind the column to give you an ide what it looks like. I'll have to wait till it's completely finished and in my case before I decide whether it looks good enough to stay. If not, I'll use the jigsaw to cut it free from the rest of the glyph wall.
I started preping the two pieces to be glued together. I used endust to remove all dust from both of them.
All clamped up and ready for the edges to be sanded flush with the Dremel.
Started gluing with super glue (cyno-acrylate).
This side is finished.
While waiting for some of the glue to dry, I filed and sanded the first Bondo'd cone for the res.
Here is a test fit.
That's it for today. I'll try to finish the glyph wall tomorrow and do more work on the res.
Sobek,
You have no idea how happy I am to see that you are back at work doing this mod.
I remember seeing your mod when I first joined but by that point all the pics had died and I was so sad that I couldn't get to see what all the nice text was talking about.
Thank you so much for redoing the worklog from the start.
Also, I am loving how much detail you are getting from such simple materials.
I can't wait for your next update!
You have no idea how happy I am to see that you are back at work doing this mod.
I remember seeing your mod when I first joined but by that point all the pics had died and I was so sad that I couldn't get to see what all the nice text was talking about.
Thank you so much for redoing the worklog from the start.
Also, I am loving how much detail you are getting from such simple materials.
I can't wait for your next update!
Everfalling
Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Messages
- 676
pretty cool looking. my only disapointment is that i can't see any of the work before the ancient box mod...
Everfalling said:
What do you want to see? I can post some more of it if you tell me what you want but then again there isn't much more to be seen.
Sorry but my wife kidnapped me from working so there aren't any updates yet. Perhaps tonight I can update with some.
I was trying to get one or more of the PSone LCD screens from Kmart for only $13 so that I could make them into the Quantum mirror from Season 1's "There But fot the Grace of God" and Season 3's "Point of View." All my Kmarts were out so I may have to get one off eBay eventually.
Everfalling
Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Messages
- 676
the thing is, i donno what i want to see. i donno what it was you were working on in the beginning...i think i saw some hint of the stargate design itself with the dialing symbols and such, but it was like one picture. do you have all the pics from the whole work progress archived somewhere?
I have all the pics on my PC. I was using iupload.net but the pics only last about 9 months. I'm using imageshack now so they should last forever. I reposted the majority of the pics or at least the more important ones last week and they are on pg 19. I think the pic you are talking about was my sketch on posterboard for the Stargate model I want to make for the side panel window. I didn't upload it since it was only an idea and just a few pics. I haven't begun to work on that part yet. I'll upload it soon though.
Update w/o pics cause I'm tired and lazy so you'll just have to wait till Monday night:
I finished the plexi panel. The superglue messed it up in a few places but not real bad. It's mostly on the top. The glyphs look great. You'll see when I post pics. I forgot I had the original plexi piece that was supposed to be painted gold still in my case so I kinda screwed up in that dept. I found the two extra styrofoam balls for the res I had and decided I would Bondo them up as well. I cut a hole through one for the PVC and started applying Bondo. That's all I got done today.
I went to the beach and watched the "surfers" attempt to "surf" the waves caused by Wilma. I put the " around surfers because I don't consider riding waves in the Gulf with or without a hurricane to be surfing. The waves are just too small. (No I do not surf but we have larger waves than the ones here back on the East coast in NC as I'm sure some of you would agree.) End rant.
Update w/o pics cause I'm tired and lazy so you'll just have to wait till Monday night:
I finished the plexi panel. The superglue messed it up in a few places but not real bad. It's mostly on the top. The glyphs look great. You'll see when I post pics. I forgot I had the original plexi piece that was supposed to be painted gold still in my case so I kinda screwed up in that dept. I found the two extra styrofoam balls for the res I had and decided I would Bondo them up as well. I cut a hole through one for the PVC and started applying Bondo. That's all I got done today.
I went to the beach and watched the "surfers" attempt to "surf" the waves caused by Wilma. I put the " around surfers because I don't consider riding waves in the Gulf with or without a hurricane to be surfing. The waves are just too small. (No I do not surf but we have larger waves than the ones here back on the East coast in NC as I'm sure some of you would agree.) End rant.
Update with pics:
Here is the edge of the plexi after gluing. I had to wait for it to dry so I moved on to remaking the balls for the res.
Styrofaom ball with outer edge of PVC drawn ready to be cut.
Cut with mini hacksaw blade and filed down inside to remove excess.
PVC through the hole to assure fit. The barbs will actually be hidden mostly.
After the glue was dry, I smoothed the edges and removed the tape. You can see where the top portion got messed up. The rest of the glyph wall looks great though. The cut portion along the lower right is where it meets my front intake fan along the edge. You can see this in one of the pics further in this post.
Here you can see where the fumes from the glue must have seeped in between the two layers of plexi and fused probably because of the etched parts.
Here is the piece of plexi I forgot was in my case and should have used for the gold background.
Here is what it looks like with just the plexi wall. See the fan touching the plexi.
This is probably how I will end up putting it in the case. I have to paint the other peice of plexi and put the "power crystals" that make up the engine compartment in the top left where the PSU is. That's what the space is for where the glyph wall is. The area above the glyphs will either stay gold or be painted black. That rear exhaust fan is a UV reactive blue one w/ mini UV CCFL left over from my other case. I just had an idea typing this. I should paint the power crystals with different colored UV reactive paints so that the other UV CCFL's I have will make them glow. It might make the etches stand out too. I'll have to try it out when I get a chance.
Back to the styrofoam ball. Here it is after the first layer of Bondo awaiting filing/sanding and another coat. I only did one coat of BOndo on the other ones and they aren't as strong. I also applied the Bondo to them before cutting the hole which has caused problems.
Last night, I smoothed the base of the res so that the top portion sits level (or pretty damn close anyways). It took a lot of filing to get it level as one end leaned down more than the other. I then filled in behind the Bondo'd funnel with some hot glue. When it was done, I flipped the base over and very generously applied PVC cement in multiple coats (the glue is clear but the primer is purple). It started to leak through some parts in the hot glue so i plugged those holes and added more. It should be glued in very well but I will add more and let it dry and then add hot glue over that.
That's it for the updates. I had to work 12hrs today and probably tomorrow too so I wont be able to do too much if any work for a few days.
BTW, My wife is aallowing me to get a new monitor finally so any suggestion are appreciated. I'll probably post in the Displays forum soon anyway. I game a lot and want at least 19" with black bezel at around $300. CRT prefered but will take LCD if it has good response time and all that great stuff. Thanks for the comments as always.
Here is the edge of the plexi after gluing. I had to wait for it to dry so I moved on to remaking the balls for the res.
Styrofaom ball with outer edge of PVC drawn ready to be cut.
Cut with mini hacksaw blade and filed down inside to remove excess.
PVC through the hole to assure fit. The barbs will actually be hidden mostly.
After the glue was dry, I smoothed the edges and removed the tape. You can see where the top portion got messed up. The rest of the glyph wall looks great though. The cut portion along the lower right is where it meets my front intake fan along the edge. You can see this in one of the pics further in this post.
Here you can see where the fumes from the glue must have seeped in between the two layers of plexi and fused probably because of the etched parts.
Here is the piece of plexi I forgot was in my case and should have used for the gold background.
Here is what it looks like with just the plexi wall. See the fan touching the plexi.
This is probably how I will end up putting it in the case. I have to paint the other peice of plexi and put the "power crystals" that make up the engine compartment in the top left where the PSU is. That's what the space is for where the glyph wall is. The area above the glyphs will either stay gold or be painted black. That rear exhaust fan is a UV reactive blue one w/ mini UV CCFL left over from my other case. I just had an idea typing this. I should paint the power crystals with different colored UV reactive paints so that the other UV CCFL's I have will make them glow. It might make the etches stand out too. I'll have to try it out when I get a chance.
Back to the styrofoam ball. Here it is after the first layer of Bondo awaiting filing/sanding and another coat. I only did one coat of BOndo on the other ones and they aren't as strong. I also applied the Bondo to them before cutting the hole which has caused problems.
Last night, I smoothed the base of the res so that the top portion sits level (or pretty damn close anyways). It took a lot of filing to get it level as one end leaned down more than the other. I then filled in behind the Bondo'd funnel with some hot glue. When it was done, I flipped the base over and very generously applied PVC cement in multiple coats (the glue is clear but the primer is purple). It started to leak through some parts in the hot glue so i plugged those holes and added more. It should be glued in very well but I will add more and let it dry and then add hot glue over that.
That's it for the updates. I had to work 12hrs today and probably tomorrow too so I wont be able to do too much if any work for a few days.
BTW, My wife is aallowing me to get a new monitor finally so any suggestion are appreciated. I'll probably post in the Displays forum soon anyway. I game a lot and want at least 19" with black bezel at around $300. CRT prefered but will take LCD if it has good response time and all that great stuff. Thanks for the comments as always.
flat4 said:lookin good sobek. i want to see how the etches look with the UV CCFL. go out and buy you a 2005fpw
Thanks and I am seriously considering getting one. I was looking at the Samsung 915 as well and if I had the money I wulld have gotten it tonight when newegg was offering a $50 MIR on it. As soon as a 40% off coupon code comes around I will probably get the 2005fpw. A guy I work with has the a Dell XPS with a 2405 FPW and is ordering another one. I am so jealous of his displays.
I'm downloading fedora linux right now to put on my old Dell this weekend and I may try out the UV CCFL's on the etching while I'm at it.
BTW, I started sanding the Bondo on the styrofam ball today and did some more gluing on the res but that is all I did. I'm working swingshift (2-10pm) now so I have to do all my work in the morning.
SiathLinux
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2005
- Messages
- 270
I agree with grabbin the Dell 2005FPW (I have a 20" CTX CRT with 1600x1200 res. ) so I'm all about the 20" monitors (no matter if flat or crt)..
Quote: I'm downloading fedora linux right now to put on my old Dell this weekend
Should be fun, I've used it in my dual boot for ages (although at the moment that it taken apart) lots of abily with FC4...
Quote: I'm downloading fedora linux right now to put on my old Dell this weekend
Should be fun, I've used it in my dual boot for ages (although at the moment that it taken apart) lots of abily with FC4...
I haven't done too much with the project other than stick some glue sticks in the bottom of the base and use the heat gun to melt them together. There is now a huge white glob in the bottom. I'll take pics later and post.
I am installing Fedora on my old Dell right now. I wasn't sure if it would even boot. I'll be spending part of tomorrow playing with it trying to turn it into a server for UT2K4.
edit: Disk 2 is messed up and I am tired of redownloading and burning it so I quit for tonight. I'll have to figure out how to check the checksum or whatever it is you do to make sure the file is correct.
I am pretty set on getting the 2005fpw now. I have read dozens of threads in the Displays forum and if I can't get used to gaming on it I will either use it as a gasp, third display, give it to my wife since she wants an LCD too (but doesn't play games much more advanced than Pacman! despite my efforts) and go with the Samsung 915, or I'll return it. The 2405fpw is too much in size and money. If I really like the 2005fpw, I'll buy another.
I am installing Fedora on my old Dell right now. I wasn't sure if it would even boot. I'll be spending part of tomorrow playing with it trying to turn it into a server for UT2K4.
edit: Disk 2 is messed up and I am tired of redownloading and burning it so I quit for tonight. I'll have to figure out how to check the checksum or whatever it is you do to make sure the file is correct.
I am pretty set on getting the 2005fpw now. I have read dozens of threads in the Displays forum and if I can't get used to gaming on it I will either use it as a gasp, third display, give it to my wife since she wants an LCD too (but doesn't play games much more advanced than Pacman! despite my efforts) and go with the Samsung 915, or I'll return it. The 2405fpw is too much in size and money. If I really like the 2005fpw, I'll buy another.
smileyscout
Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2005
- Messages
- 631
Did this project die or are you waiting to add a Ori inspired piece?
