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Project:Delorean

Got a little more done since the weather was more cooperative.. but school left me with less time than what would be ideal. I have 3 science courses this semester with corresponding labs... its killing me. Part of the reason for this project is to have an outlet. Chemistry, Cellular biology and Microbiology. Love love love it. anyways back on track here...

Got one side a little cleaned up with the lips on the mounted portions of the doors. Also started on stripping the paint off to reveal some of that beautiful stainless... enjoy.
IMG_2525.jpg

Just like the cars they look dull until something is next to it. then its GEORGOUS... I think I may go to a finer grit, but I do like this one just fine. 150 to be exact.
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Another shot to see imperfections.
IMG_2526.jpg

lips installed.
 
Looks good! I forget if you've mentioned this, but you might want to put a clear coat of something on that. Stainless isn't always as stainless as the name would indicate :p
 
Yeah, thought of that but I'm still looking for something that will not distort the color. A few things I have tried so far turn a sleight yellow tint when applied.
 
No update today... I am swamped with homework. Cellular biology lab report due next week along with an exam for the lecture part on monday, Paper due for my music history class, also giving a presentation for my microbiology lecture class. So very much to do and never enough time to finish it with the kid and wife. Do not go to school with a family and a part time job.
 
Ok, so I had a few spare minutes today and did some bondo work. heheh well, I applied some but I guess that does not really qualify as work.
IMG_2573.jpg

Yeah, did not spread it out in time so it started to thicken up. oh, well.

I also tapped up one of the panels for cutting again... this time for the window. I also tapped up the top for the hole that will mount the Reserator.

I have further thought about my potential problem/worry about the antenna motors not being able to push the weight. So, I looked into alternative methods. Hydraulics or pneumatics are out of the question. Then I remembered reading about linear actuators. Really cool stuff... anyway, I researched the things again this morning... $100!! for ONE that only extends 4 inches!!! so, I found a diagram of one and figured out how the dumb thing works. I can get a high torque 12V motor off ebay for $10, some ball bearings for the two units I would make would run about $10 other parts and metal would run probably no more than $40-50. Yeah, gonna build my own to my own exact specification... if these things do not pan out.
 
I've been very sick over the weekend. Still am very sick. Not going to work tomorrow.
 
To get that brushed finish looking really pro, attach your paper to a big piece of wood with a scrap-wood handle on top. Put the piece and your new sander up against an edge where you can keep the sandpaper block parallel to the surface with each stroke. Only go in one direction. Pulling each pass as smoothly as the next until all the lines are going together. It takes time, but you'll be pleased with the effort.

Hope you get better soon.
 
OK, had some time finally and the weather was nice.Finally got the other door separated. Got one door and the top tapped up for cutting with my jig saw. Also figured out something fun to do on the back of the motherboard tray.
IMG_2623.jpg

IMG_2621.jpg

The guts to the monitor.
IMG_2622.jpg

Just ordered a new volt meter so I can see if I can ditch the power converter and run the monitor off the PSU. That would be nice. Anyways... only one more full week of school left. Summer is coming closer...
 
Got my new tester today. Turns out that I will have to use the power converter... interesting stuff on this. There was a 3V, 4V, 5V, and 13V for the signal to run on the control board. The cathodes are the hard part. I had it set on 20V and tested and got out of range message. I turned it up to 200V and got the same thing. Since ditching the converter was now not an option I let it be. Soooo... something else inside my case I have to incorporate and it generates heat too!! oh goodie.
 
Jomanscool2 said:
OH GOD! Watch out with cathodes!!! IIRC, cathodes run at 30,000 volts or so.
Click to expand...

Don't worry. As long as you hit that wire with the connecting hook at precisely 88 miles an hour, the instant the lightning strikes the tower... everything will be fine!


Looking sexy, but I cant find where you mention what the power antennas are for...
 
O... KAAAYYYY then well, better not mess with that one then. I have an idea of where to put the stuff but I have to get some time to do a test fit and take some measurements.

Warmace: the power antennas are planned to be the mechanism to lift the door panels. The more I think about that issue the more I think I should not waste my efforts and make my own linear actuator. That will give me more lifting power and I can make it a custom size to fit wherever I see fit.

Gonna wait on it to do other stuff that does not require $ like the finish on the case and modding electronic stuff. I have materials for the fiberglass work on the mr. fusion tower for the reservoir. Need to finish the front panel. Cut window panels and the hole for the reserator. Stuff like that. Last week of school so I am finally going to be able to make some real headway on this project soon.
 
Why not just use a Servo for the door to open?
 
Ockie said:
Why not just use a Servo for the door to open?
Click to expand...

Mainly torque. The torque needed to open the lid would be exceptional given that a distance just under 4 inches would be the maximum and even at that the load would be immense. at shorter distances the load would be even greater and an industrial servo for that much torque would be large and require more than 12VDC.

A lower end torque servo would work but you would have to design a rather complex/bulky rotor and push rod to get the work done. Mostly it would be bulky the rotor whether arm or disc would have a very large diameter. then you would have to figure that diameter into the distance the push rod connected to the rotor. It gets complicated fast and the extensive diameter would definitely congest things in the case.

These two main factors is why I decided to go with something more linear. the push mechanism can be controlled mechanically or electronically and the motor assembly is compact. The rod is also much more compact as it is telescopic.

Edit:
Working on things briefly I got this shot:
Baby computer cooling methods...
IMG_2632.jpg

Its blurry but you get the idea.
Anyways... I'll mount the power unit on the base of the case with motherboard standoffs and make a custom PCI plate for the VGA input. It will all be right there at the bottom of the case and be just perfect for cable management. The power cable connector will also have a square hole made for it to reside in. Its all coming into play now.
 
I love your door idea (now that i know what it is :p ) and was thinking...

How about a counter weight inside to reduce the amount of torque needed to open them? Then you can still use the antennas with their bend.

balancedqz6.jpg


If the weight was the same as the door and completely opposite from it then it would be perfectly balanced and require no effort to move.
 
we could use the kid for the couterweight....... :) j/k bro
 
Well, for one my kid will again congest the build;) I planned on hinging right at the point in the middle of the case to get the gullwing effect like the delorean. This kinda eliminates a counterweight. Not to mention the doors folding in like that leaves little room for my new fancy hard drive rack for the 5.25" bays:)
Like this:
doors.jpg
 
im just saying, the kid can fit into the case, the case is HUGE compaired to her :)

lol, anyway, awesome idea bro, I wanna see this done cause im in anticipation :)
 
Its still doable without the counter weight, how about counterweight hinges?

Their just hinges with springs on them.

pic12chu7.gif
It may be harder to get the right strength spring, but it will use no extra space inside.
 
Thats a good idea. Another concern on that one though is length. the panel is 5.25 inches at that point. I'll keep it in mind the next time I'm at the hardware store.
 
OK, got the mounting PCI plate done and attached to the controller board and the Power regulator mounted to the bottom of the case. I had to extend the wire form where you plug the AC power in externally to the power regulator... just look for the shrink tubes:D So yeah, I made my hole for the plug in part as well. I'm off to a local shop to see what I can find. B-day is on tuesday so this counts as my b-day present... we are celebrating this weekend.
IMG_2639.jpg

IMG_2640.jpg
 
I really wanna see how you work it all in.. and what the temps are when it's done.
 
Finished 2 exams and so I needed to vent a little. Got in some parts for the front panel buttons for power on and the ODD... Touch sensors...so I sat and brushed up on my soldering skills.
IMG_2648.jpg


BTW I had to place a minimum order for the sensor chips so I am getting 11 of these bad boys. I'll want 4 for myself so if anyone wants one let me know via PM. with the piss poor exchange rate each one was $3.60.
 
I hate to double post but its a new day and different content altogether.

Rainy muggy day here. So, I managed to finally get a sanding block to get going on the front panel. So here it is so far. Needs another coat... not to mention the new plan with the LCD... I plan on incorporating the buttons for the LCD in the panel so I've had to change up some stuff on the layout. I think it will be ok.
IMG_2649.jpg


Then, I also sanded more panels. I need to cut the holes in the actual doors for the windows but until then I do not want to sand them. I need to do the lip on the other side still.
IMG_2650.jpg


Plan on starting fiberglass work for the reservoir and finishing up the front panel next week. I need to cut the doors and the hole for the resorator.
 
Wow this is really a long project. Keep up the good work. I want to see this in PC magazine.
 
stoney_titan said:
Wow this is really a long project. Keep up the good work. I want to see this in PC magazine.
Click to expand...

I don't know that its long I just do not have lots of time all at once to complete it. so... its just stretched out. I don't know about PC magazine and all that but its a fun project I am working on for myself. I love the car, always have, always will and this just perpetuates my obsession. Got some more bondo on the front panel yesterday that should be cured by now for sanding and... more bondo. I also hot in my QT-110 chips for my touch sensors. I'll be playing around with that a little since this is really my first time doing custom electronics for anything.

Thanks for all the compliments. It really is nice of you and to be sure I feel like I do not deserve it compared to other excellent modders in this forum.

negative decibel... love the name. I do custom car audio too... just love the name.
 
Ok, managed to get the touch sensors hooked up... jerry rigged if you will. Works just fine. I tested it on an old optical drive so that is set to be installed when the front panel is done. all this bondo work for two more holes. go figure.

More bondo on the front panel... yay no more floppy drive!!! so yeah. I'm now OUT of bondo and need to pick up more. I think this area turned out well considering I really had nothing to go by.
IMG_2654.jpg


So I cut the big hole for the reservoir in the toilet paper holder. I messed up ever so slightly and am pretty sure I can cover it up so it is never noticed.
IMG_2651.jpg


Got a mold made for fiberglass.. and got two layers out to dry. I think this is all I will need. when I install the mold inside the res I'll apply COPIOUS amounts of resin so I think it will be water tight.
IMG_2655.jpg
 
I'm trying to leave room for a crossfire setup for R600
Click to expand...

For the cost of dual 2900 XTs, you could probably get a great down payment on a cherry DeLorean! :)
 
Back again with more news. Muggy day so no good for doing fiberglass.. it would take ALLLL day to dry. so I did something else. I used a touch sensor to complete the optical drive mod. made the faceplate, stenciled... painted... here we are.
IMG_2661.jpg

You can see the red arcing wire that connects to the button. the other two solders I had to make were on the 5v and ground for the touch sensor. just a quick touch and it was done. I routed the sensing wire along the underside of the tray and the finished product looks like:
IMG_2663.jpg

that.... on the back side. just added a little character I think. The inside of the BTTF delorean was cluttered with electronics. This fits that bill. but is compact. attached to the plastic part of the optical drive by hot glue gun at the. I wanted to be able to move it to a new drive when I get one. yeah, that will be when BRD and HD-DVD combo drives are like $75. so I'm hanging on to this one for awhile.

here is a little video to show the touch action and what the front looks like.
http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f42/willsonman/?action=view&current=MVI_2664.flv
 
OK, been busy today. still muggy so I decided not to go for the fiberglass work. Managed to get lots of headway on the front...
IMG_2683.jpg


Then while I was waiting for things to dry... I got this done
IMG_2679.jpg


I also decide to add some support bars since the top of the case was still a little unstable after I removed so much of the top...
IMG_2682.jpg
 
Looking very nice :D I like the touch-sensor; did you build it yourself or find it somewhere?
 
No I built it. It was quite simple and I plan on using these things exclusively from now on. It adds such a nice "touch" to the mod.:D


To be completely fair... I cannot believe I forgot to mention this.... the credit for the touch sensor goes to Excalib12e and his mod Halcyon in Black as well as his reference to bit-tech. There is a TON of stuff there about modding including an LEDs for idiots. all this goes to where it belongs.
 
More front panel stuff today. a few more coats of primer to get all the scratches out. Added the square holes for the "turn signal" power touch buttons. also made holes for the monitor controls for the monitor on the back of the motherboard. Epoxy made it all stick together.
IMG_2684.jpg

Still need to mount the piece of steel I have for it. I wanted to wait until the paint cured a bit more and also need to finish the covers for the 3 drive bays. hehe. I have a clever picture for that one... see the bottom of my sig.
 
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