Post your 6800 GT OC!

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I've been getting some troubles lately with the stability of my BFG Geforce 6800 GT OC.
I have flashed to the nVidia reference 6800 Ultra BIOS and can manage clock rates like 410/1150 with zero artifacts, but then it would suddenly freeze after 5 minutes of play with a multi-coloured rainbow garbled display. The temps never rise above 69 celcius on a full load, the card is using the NV Silencer 5 cooler and also has 2 dedicated case fans placed around it.
I've tried numerous BIOS' all with the same result, but I think the problem lies with the amount of equipment I have connected.
I have 2 ATA HD's and 2 SATA HD's connected, 1 DVD-RW, 8 case fans + a fan control unit, an Audigy ZS Platinum Pro (which requires external power for the I/O device), a WinTV Theatre card, and around 5 USB devices.
The PSU is rated 20 amps on the +12v rail, is it worth my while upgrading to say... a 600 Watt Enermax?
 
devilhood said:
I've been getting some troubles lately with the stability of my BFG Geforce 6800 GT OC.
I have flashed to the nVidia reference 6800 Ultra BIOS and can manage clock rates like 410/1150 with zero artifacts, but then it would suddenly freeze after 5 minutes of play with a multi-coloured rainbow garbled display. The temps never rise above 69 celcius on a full load, the card is using the NV Silencer 5 cooler and also has 2 dedicated case fans placed around it.
I've tried numerous BIOS' all with the same result, but I think the problem lies with the amount of equipment I have connected.
I have 2 ATA HD's and 2 SATA HD's connected, 1 DVD-RW, 8 case fans + a fan control unit, an Audigy ZS Platinum Pro (which requires external power for the I/O device), a WinTV Theatre card, and around 5 USB devices.
The PSU is rated 20 amps on the +12v rail, is it worth my while upgrading to say... a 600 Watt Enermax?

HOLY $HIT....that's HORRIBLE on the 12v....should be 30-40amps for sure. The straight wattage isn't whats important...as anything above a 430W will be fine, but as long as the rails are stable and teh amps are sufficient on all lines you'll be good.

Ditch that PSU though, what a horrible POS to be overclocking a GT on. ;)
 
devilhood said:
hahahahaha, thanks for the heads up man, I will order a new one right now :D

Good stuff, I suggest something in the 430-500W range by Antec or Enermax, as they're who I've had the most personal experience with.....and they both cater very well to ppl who can't afford to fork over more then $200 for a PCP&C. ;)
 
cornelious0_0 said:
Good stuff, I suggest something in the 430-500W range by Antec or Enermax, as they're who I've had the most personal experience with.....and they both cater very well to ppl who can't afford to fork over more then $200 for a PCP&C. ;)
I ordered the Enermax Noisetaker v2.0 470W, so I'm looking forward to trying this out and see what OC I get, I'll post it the moment all the gear is hooked up.
 
devilhood said:
I ordered the Enermax Noisetaker v2.0 470W, so I'm looking forward to trying this out and see what OC I get, I'll post it the moment all the gear is hooked up.

Good stuff, be sure you do. ;)
 
devilhood said:
I've been getting some troubles lately with the stability of my BFG Geforce 6800 GT OC.
I have flashed to the nVidia reference 6800 Ultra BIOS and can manage clock rates like 410/1150 with zero artifacts, but then it would suddenly freeze after 5 minutes of play with a multi-coloured rainbow garbled display. The temps never rise above 69 celcius on a full load, the card is using the NV Silencer 5 cooler and also has 2 dedicated case fans placed around it.
I've tried numerous BIOS' all with the same result, but I think the problem lies with the amount of equipment I have connected.
I have 2 ATA HD's and 2 SATA HD's connected, 1 DVD-RW, 8 case fans + a fan control unit, an Audigy ZS Platinum Pro (which requires external power for the I/O device), a WinTV Theatre card, and around 5 USB devices.
The PSU is rated 20 amps on the +12v rail, is it worth my while upgrading to say... a 600 Watt Enermax?

it may be that your chip doesnt like 1.4v. mine did the same thing and until i got rid of 1.4v i was completely unstable. try goign back to 1.3, and you'll get some stability.
 
y0bailey said:
it may be that your chip doesnt like 1.4v. mine did the same thing and until i got rid of 1.4v i was completely unstable. try goign back to 1.3, and you'll get some stability.

It IS from the voltage...I've seen it before, and it's the same thing that my GT did when I tried 1.5v.....

If it's dong that garbled screen do NOT leave it at 1.4v unless you want a new $400 paperweight.
 
cornelious0_0 said:
It IS from the voltage...I've seen it before, and it's the same thing that my GT did when I tried 1.5v.....

If it's dong that garbled screen do NOT leave it at 1.4v unless you want a new $400 paperweight.

hehe, well I can now safely admit to having a new paperweight, my PSU actually blew up last night :)
and best of all, it blew up whilst I was playing Silent Hill 2 :eek: :D haha
I am now using an OCZ one borrowed from my bro until my Enermax arrives on monday or tuesday.
I know for a fact my chip has no problems with 1.4v, it was just my cheapy pile of crap PSU that was driven to it's limits.
I should have known, but I guess we all learn from experience, I'm extremely lucky that I had a surge protector and no damage was done to anything inside my computer.
Ah well, I'll give 3DMark 2005 a blast during the week, hopefully with a completely stable setup.
 
It's gonna suck to have to give up that OCZ power supply for the Enermax, but oh well. :p

EDIT: Oh, and your sig is about 3 lines too long. ;)
 
from reading a lot of reviews, there doesn't seem to be any significant difference between the two, except that the Enermax one is apparantely better shielded, has better fans and is extremely quiet. It also has a dedicated graphics card power cable ;)
apologies for the signature length, I have now fixed it :p
 
How can you honestly say that there's no difference between the two. No Antec or Enermax to date has been able to compare to the stability and consistancy of the rails on the OCZ. Apart from that, the adjustable rails on teh OCZ are what's keeping me in IT'S court.....as the only other PSU out there that really offers the same functionality is the TrueControl 550W from Antec, but I'd still rather have the OCZ. Look at the top guys on the ORB and all the crazy overclocking nuts over at XtremeSystems and check out what the majority of them are powering their rigs with.....OCZ Powerstreams. That says enough for me, as I'm coming from the same angle with the purchase. It's not being blindly obedient and following what someone else is doing, as the OCZ still is the better PSU hands down, but it's nice to know that there's some really talented overclockers out there backing you up. ;)
 
i was just defending my purchase because you made me feel guilty buying it haha
well with my next system, I will be sure to purchase an OCZ to give the baby a good run for it's money *twiddles thumbs until my next student loan comes along* :p
 
devilhood said:
i was just defending my purchase because you made me feel guilty buying it haha
well with my next system, I will be sure to purchase an OCZ to give the baby a good run for it's money *twiddles thumbs until my next student loan comes along* :p

Haha, good stuff.....no hard feelings though. ;)
 
cornelious0_0 said:
How can you honestly say that there's no difference between the two. No Antec or Enermax to date has been able to compare to the stability and consistancy of the rails on the OCZ. Apart from that, the adjustable rails on teh OCZ are what's keeping me in IT'S court.....as the only other PSU out there that really offers the same functionality is the TrueControl 550W from Antec, but I'd still rather have the OCZ. Look at the top guys on the ORB and all the crazy overclocking nuts over at XtremeSystems and check out what the majority of them are powering their rigs with.....OCZ Powerstreams. That says enough for me, as I'm coming from the same angle with the purchase. It's not being blindly obedient and following what someone else is doing, as the OCZ still is the better PSU hands down, but it's nice to know that there's some really talented overclockers out there backing you up. ;)

I have never seen a rail graph on the OCZ, but you'll claim that it's more stable than
http://terasan.okiraku-pc.net/dengen/tester/index.html
? (search for the antec on there, it's about 1/3 of the way down).
direct link: http://terasan.okiraku-pc.net/dengen/tester/true480.jpg

I doubt it... that's about perfectly stable. Look also at the PCP&C on there. Compare to the others.

I'll agree that the Enermax isn't as stable, you can see it's graph there as well, but the Antec is almost perfect.

Here is another antec:
http://terasan.okiraku-pc.net/dengen/tester2/index.html

Again, almost perfect rail stability

The details can be found in the power supply forum, but OCZ makes pretty good PSU's, but generally not the absolute best, and there haven't been any reviews that do a stability graph that I've seen either. That's what tells the truth. If you can find one, it would be great.
 
I appreciate the time that you put into collecting those results, but you're missing one important fact. Not ALL Antec 480's are going to perform like the one in that graph...and the Truepower line is probably the most avoided I've seen, and the line that the most ppl have a bad track record with. If all True480's were going to perform like the one in that graph then sure, I'd just save some cash and go that route...but they don't all live up to those standards. The same thing goes for MANY other PSU's out there, including my Enermax, which generally is sposed to be a stable PSU, but the 12v line on MINE is just $hit.

Not only have select few reviews shown the OCZ to be perfectly stable (dipping from 12.36 to 12.34 under load for example....but never going under 12v) but so has virtually every high end enthusiast overclocker I've talked to. I have YET to find one single person who has had issues with the OCZ's rails, which is FAR from what I can say about other names like Antec and Eneramax. Of course if you want the pinacle of PSU performance you'd just go pick up a PCP&C, but a lot of ppl dont have that kind of mony to spend on a PSU. If you exclude the PCP&C line, the OCZ Powerstreams ARE the nicest on the market right now, as it has both a number of reviews, as well as countless end-user experiences to back it up....whereas I can usually find at least a few people who have had flaky Antec or Enermax PSU's.

I'm not asking everyone to run out and buy an OCZ Powerstream, because some of you DO have Antec and Enermax PSU's (amung others) that have perfect or near perfect 12v rails. I'm simply stating that there ARE a good number of ppl out there that have had horrible encounters with names like Antec and Enermax in the past...but I have YET to see a single person say that theire OCZ was "off" or didn't perform up to spec.

Frankly I'm getting sick of my 11.65 - 11.7 12v rail that's butchering my overclocks, and I'm MORE then looking forward to the 12th when I get to order my 470W Powerstream. :cool:
 
cornelius I know this has nothing to do with thıs tread but has your computer ever shut down while you were playing games. My 12v rail has never seen 12v ın ıts life.
BTW my gt doesnt oc that well :(
 
prince of the damned said:
cornelius I know this has nothing to do with thıs tread but has your computer ever shut down while you were playing games. My 12v rail has never seen 12v ın ıts life.
BTW my gt doesnt oc that well :(

It has, and it has been MOSTLY to do with my 12v line on this POS Enermax. Both of my overclocks are being held back SOOO much right now 'cus of this PSU.....the cpu can benchmark at 3.78GHz with a less power hungry card installed, and the XT-PE can do 630/620 at 1.64v, but I have to back it down to 560/620 with the cpu at 3.73GHz.

It's sad that I'm having to learn the hard way the importance of a solid 12v line. I always knew it was important, but now that I've seen firsthand the effects a bad line can have I'll never think twice about ditching a "subpar" powersupply again. For most people who aren't doing a LOT of heavy overclocking a 11.7v 12v line would still be sufficient, but now that I've got my watercooling up and running and my overclocks are climbing, this PSU just isn't cutting it. Ordering a 470W OCZ Powerstream on friday though...yay!!! :D
 
prince of the damned said:
Thnx a lot I thınk thats what ıll do too rıght now my 12v ıs at 11,4v

Holy shit bro, are you're wondering why your card might not be overclocking that great?!?!?!?!? :eek: :eek: :eek:

Ditch that $hit NOW!!!
 
After reading a few posts here I hooked up my trusty Fluke meter to my 12V rail on my Antec TrueBlue480 (convenient plug on back of ps) and ran a couple tests. I ran 3dmark05 and two instances of Prime95 and had the same results. My idle is 12.01V-12.02V and load is 12.03V-12.04V, yes my voltage actually goes up a couple hundredths. According to the Abit doctor the 12V rail is usually between 11.6V-11.8V, which I have known to be completely inaccurate. So, I hope you guys arent trusting your software to give you accurate voltage readings.
 
Back to topic... My BFG 6800GT OC (reference design) was clocked at 412/1150 on automatic overclock but i decided to set it to 400/1100. It is performing very fast for me and i wanted to keep my card for a long time.
 
I know even when everything ıs at stock the pc just shuts down ın the mıddle of a game pıece of s*** :mad: the second I fınd some money thıs baby ıs goıng down.
 
OrionNT said:
After reading a few posts here I hooked up my trusty Fluke meter to my 12V rail on my Antec TrueBlue480 (convenient plug on back of ps) and ran a couple tests. I ran 3dmark05 and two instances of Prime95 and had the same results. My idle is 12.01V-12.02V and load is 12.03V-12.04V, yes my voltage actually goes up a couple hundredths. According to the Abit doctor the 12V rail is usually between 11.6V-11.8V, which I have known to be completely inaccurate. So, I hope you guys arent trusting your software to give you accurate voltage readings.

I'm fully aware that software isnt as accurate....but even though i AM using software to check the 12v line, I'm still corect in what it's doing to my system. The CPU and video card both run off the 12v as most of you should already be aware...when I had the TNT2 installed I could clock the 2.8C up to 3.78GHz for any benchmark out there, whereas just HAVING the XT-PE installed at stock clock limits me to 3.73GHz. Likewise, if I leave the 2.8C at stock clock I can overclock the XT-PE to 630/620 at 1.64v, but with the cpu bumped up to its 3.73GHz I can't have the card any higher then 560/620.....and the system instantly locks up from the load/stress on the 12v line the second I apply any clock even close to 630 on the XT.

If someone has any other ideas as to what It might by I am open to listening....but I'm about as sure and as convinced as you could ever be that it's my PSU.
 
I wasnt doubting the problem is your power supply. I just wanted to point out that I am having good results with my antec true ps.
 
OrionNT said:
I wasnt doubting the problem is your power supply. I just wanted to point out that I am having good results with my antec true ps.

No harm meant....and 'grats on actually having a solid PSU under your belt, I'll join you soon enough. ;)
 
prince of the damned said:
What ıs the most relıable program to mesure the volts bc/ I dont have any machine to mesure at home

SpeedFan is the easiest as it's a ridiculously small/simple program that gives you ALL your voltage and temp readouts on the main screen, and takes about 5 seconds to install.

SpeedFan Homepage
 
just dl it. İts around 11,6v and 11,8v so İ guess a change is necassary by the way my psu ıs Q tec ıf youve ever heard of ıt
 
prince of the damned said:
just dl it. İts around 11,6v and 11,8v so İ guess a change is necassary by the way my psu ıs Q tec ıf youve ever heard of ıt

I have, and I feel even MORE pity on you know. My 12v sits at 11.73v with my cpu and video card at stock just sitting on the desktop.....and I really dont want to know how low it dips under load with them both overclocked. I'll be happy when this whole ordeal is over though and I've got the OCZ installed. :D
 
I have a BFG 6800 GT OC that I picked up at Best Buy (AGP version).

I'm getting some artifacting/freezing that happens at stock speeds. Coolbits is showing the standard 370/1000 for this card. In intensive 3d games (EQ2, Doom3, etc), I start seeing some weird like texture flickers (oceans flickering bright white, etc), that starts getting more frequent and then finally the screen freezes. I still hear sound, but the game never comes back from this and end up having to reboot.

If I window out before it freezes up and wait a minute or so, then I'm back to normal.

This sounds like a heat issue, but I was trying to follow the thread about the BIOS editing the voltage up to 1.4. Would that help a situation like this? When I have windowed out with the Nvidia temp monitor going it didn't seem that hot - around 75 C or so. There is a box above it that shows 120 C as a max cap before it clocks down, but it comes nowhere close to that speed.

Any tips/recommendations are highly appreciated!!

-Belin
 
Belin said:
I have a BFG 6800 GT OC that I picked up at Best Buy (AGP version).

I'm getting some artifacting/freezing that happens at stock speeds. Coolbits is showing the standard 370/1000 for this card. In intensive 3d games (EQ2, Doom3, etc), I start seeing some weird like texture flickers (oceans flickering bright white, etc), that starts getting more frequent and then finally the screen freezes. I still hear sound, but the game never comes back from this and end up having to reboot.

If I window out before it freezes up and wait a minute or so, then I'm back to normal.

This sounds like a heat issue, but I was trying to follow the thread about the BIOS editing the voltage up to 1.4. Would that help a situation like this? When I have windowed out with the Nvidia temp monitor going it didn't seem that hot - around 75 C or so. There is a box above it that shows 120 C as a max cap before it clocks down, but it comes nowhere close to that speed.

Any tips/recommendations are highly appreciated!!

-Belin


If you are getting artifacting at stock speeds, DO NOT UP THE VOLTAGE. You may need your warrantee. What kind of Power Supply do you have? If you rule out the power supply, it's time to call BFG and get yerself a new card.
 
etruscan said:
If you are getting artifacting at stock speeds, DO NOT UP THE VOLTAGE. You may need your warrantee. What kind of Power Supply do you have? If you rule out the power supply, it's time to call BFG and get yerself a new card.

Almost exactly what I was gonna say, even though I tried to ease over that process as much as i could, you should still not touch the voltage if you're already running into issues like this.

let us know what you're running for a PSU before you make any moves though.
 
I'm not at my home computer but it's either an Antec Truepower 380 or 430W. I bought two of these cards, but haven't tested the 2nd one in my other system to see if its the same.

Rest of stuff inside: I'm running 2 hard drives, 1 10k SATA 36GB, and 1 old IDE 40gb for storage/temp stuff. No floppy drive, an Audigy 2ZS, and a DVD Burner.

-Belin
 
I had the same soft of problem with mine at stock (texture flickering, etc) and found that when I disabled Speedfan, the problem disappeared. Also, I removed my CCFL lights (El Cheapos), to stablize my power. Haven't had a problem since.

If you have any monitoring software that polls the temp sensor on your card, you might try disabling it.

Another thought, I upgraded from a 9800XT - ended up F&Ring to get rid of the Omega drivers I used.

By the way, my PSU is a Powmax 580W. (Before ya'll laugh, it's rated for 28A on the +12v, and it's rock solid stable.)

Oh, and back to the subj: After fixing the problems I was able to get to 418 core/1.08 mem with no issues.
 
Well it seems like this thread is no longer about posting clock speeds but I will anyways. I puchased the BFG with twin fan cooler.

Before RMA 355/1.0, yes stock is 370/1.0

After RMA 412/1.08

With MCW-50t 444/1.15

24/7 440/1.14

I was not able to get the card to run stable using a modified bios. I was really dissapointed by this seeing as I have no problem keeping the card cool. :(
 
12 Axes said:
Well it seems like this thread is no longer about posting clock speeds but I will anyways. I puchased the BFG with twin fan cooler.

Before RMA 355/1.0, yes stock is 370/1.0

After RMA 412/1.08

With MCW-50t 444/1.15

24/7 440/1.14

I was not able to get the card to run stable using a modified bios. I was really dissapointed by this seeing as I have no problem keeping the card cool. :(

Good to hear the good news, bad to hear that bad.....sry the BIOS didn't work out for ya. :(
 
Ive now registered to [H]ardopc just for this thread. This is my first post btw. Normally just a browser, but i recieved my XFX 6800GT about 3 weeks ago and have been playing with it and searching the web for tweaks, max OCs etc and stumbled across this thread.

Heres the deal, ive discovered i must have recieved an excellent card, as its sitting in my shuttle xpc atm, @ 435 / 1180, which it does happily all day. When i move on to some benching i can crank it up to 445 / 1210 and stays stable enough for me to blast out a 3dmark05 or 03, so im guessing thats pretty stable. Temps only hit low 80's and this is with stock cooling! I cant be the only one.. this thread has got me worried.

Either im extremely lucky and have a total keeper of a card, or my temps are displaying incorrectly. Ive reinstalled the complete os a few times now to make sure it wasnt driver corruption or such.

So looks like ive got a good one i hope. :D Any thoughts?
 
Your temps sound about right.....mine never got any higher then that on stock cooler when I HAD my 6800GT. I still have yet to find someone with a GT that outdoes my old one at 455/1300.....but congrats none-the-less.

Welcome to the forums, and shoot me a PM if you've ever got any video card or overclocking related questions...it's what I'm here for. ;)
 
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