official MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum SLI thread

Ghostface Killah said:
Thanks, I might just pick up a Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Gamer sound card

An even better solution as you end up with superior sound if you've got the speakers to go with it.
 
What bios does the stock MSI Platinum come with?

Also, for those people who own the 6800 GT, what model did you guys get? Or does it not matter that much.
 
Ghostface Killah said:
What bios does the stock MSI Platinum come with?

I bought 2 motherboards last month. One from Newegg and other from Fry's. They both came with BIOS 3.3.
 
Going to be setting up my new system with this board (non SLI version) tomorrow, and just wanted to check and make sure that the 6.66 nForce drivers don't have any problems that I should look out for. I really don't plan to update the BIOS, atleast for now, and I just wanted to know whether or not the newest chipset drivers will work fine with the slightly older BIOS that the board ships with (ordered from newegg 3 weeks ago, assuming it'll be the 3.3 like the above poster said). Just trying to make my first build as smooth as possible, thanks for any help.

Edit: Well, I just realized that the non SLI board's BIOS versions are completely different (newest is v1.5).
 
Ghostface Killah said:
So do you belive that If I order the mother board now the problem would be fixed? Since I am going to get the Antec NeoPower 480 watts.

** MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI COMPATIBLE POWER SUPPLY **​
I am pretty sure Antec NeoPower 480 will work for this Mobo it is an excellent PSU. Here is what worked for me, I just order a PSU for my MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM, and it is doing good job. My onboard SoundBlaster is also working flawlessly. I would not invest my money in an ATX 1.0 instead of ATX 2.0 because it might not be compatible with your next system in future.

“Sky Hawk / Eagle Tech POWERONE SERIES ATX-GM570PC”
I read this power supply is under rated at 570 watt; it gives you 600+ watts. Material Finish is also pretty good, comes with 90mm and 80mm low noise LED fans. I have read some good reviews about it. This power supply competes with all the high end power supplies at half the price with these Features & Specs:

* PCI-e SLI Ready with 6 pin Graphics Card Support
* 20A +12V V1, 20A +12V V2 Compared to 18A, 15A on Antec Neopower 480.
* -5V 1.0Amp
* +3.3V 45A, +5V 50A, -12V 1.5A
* 24 pin ATX 2.0 Adapter. 24 – 20 pin adapter included.
* Super low noise Max 30dBA on full load
* Over Voltage, Over Power, Over Load, Short Circuit Protection
* Smart Cable Management (plug in cables in the power supply as needed)
* Intelligent Thermal Fan Control function.0dBA fanless (fans stay off) status under 40 degree C
* Best Part under $80 incl. Shipping. Check Newegg.com. Save some money and put it towards something else on your system or you can send me a gift or something. :p
* Manufacturer Specs page: http://www.skyhawkgroup.cn/en/productb/up3/uploadfile/20041127210013.pdf

Don’t worry about its performance. I have taken my Venice 3000+ on MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI all the way to 2770MHz using this PSU. Thou I should have ordered Venice 3200+ because it has 10x multiplier and 3000+ has 9x maximum. For complete details on my overclocking results visit my Dedicated MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI Website. http://riscmaster.cybertechniquesinc.com
 
Ghostface Killah said:
Yes I am planning to use the onboard sound :\
Thanks, I might just pick up a Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Gamer sound card

** MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI Onboard SoundBlaster Live 24Bit ROCKSSS **​

You don't have to order extra SoundBlaster Audigy just because you are not sure about PSU being compatible, since you were thinking about using on board SoundBlaster sound before. If you still want to be on the safe side try the Hawk / Eagle Tech POWERONE SERIES ATX-GM570PC, its only $75 over at NEWEGG. Onboard Sound is great on this mobo and I heard it is better than the PCI Card version of SoundBlaster Live 24Bit. My previous onboard sound was NVIDIA SOUNDSTORM on ASUS A7N8X-E DELUXE and I can clearly notice that SoundBlaster has better sound quality especially in games. I am using 700Watts RMS SONY Digital Audio/Video/Cinema Processing Control Center (64BIT Accumulator Digital Signal Processor), 5.1 Channel with 12inch Powered Sub, hooked via Optical Sound to this onboard card and it ROCKS. If you think this Sound System is cool, wait till I brag about my Display PANASONIC 50 inch, DLP LCD Projection Monitor with DVI input @1920x1080 res. :p No problems with my ATI 550 Pro Elite TV Tuner Card either.

If you still want to buy SoundBlaster Audigy, then buy DFI LanParty SLi MOBO. There is no doubt that DFI offers more overclocking performance, and it would not be a waste of onboard SoundBlaster either. When you combine all these features like Best Onboard Sound, High Overclocking Ability, 2nd Sil3132 SATA RAID Controller, and Lower Price, MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI clearly beats DFI LanParty SLI MOBO. I wanted to build a High Performance Gaming and Home Theater Multimedia System while staying in my budget and onboard sound was one of the main reasons I bought this MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI along with its superior overclocking ability. But if money is no problem for you than by all means buy SoundBlaster Audigy, but you won't notice much sound quality difference, thou it is more useful if you are going to do some sound editing. I kind of believe in Cheap & Best. :)
 
Ghostface Killah said:
Also, did you guys install cardboard / small pieces of washers in between your spaces and the mother board? Is it required? so washers are never needed for this motherboard installation?

** Motherboard Fiber Washer Installation & Grounding Issues **​

Technically the washers go in between the screw head and MOBO. Use the thin thread screws with washer like head. Here is what works for me. If I have these washers then I would definitely use them. It helps eliminate grounding problems. I try to minimize the no. of metal spacers (4 max) used so I have minimum metal contact between mobo and chasis thus less chances of grounding problems. To compensate I use plastic Stand Offs and this mixed mounting is the proper installation. The main purpose of the screws is to barely hold the MOBO in place, Plastic Stand Offs are intended to mount the MOBO. If you don’t have the washers then go ahead screw it without them but don’t over tight them this works 90% of the time. Some Motherboards do come with plastic coating around the holes so you don’t need Fiber Washers.

When I assemble a fresh system, I usually hook up every thing outside the computer case on the Motherboard Box and install Windows. This way if I get any errors while installing Windows I know it is not a grounding issue. It’s a Pain in the Neck when you take everything out of the Case thinking it might be a grounding problem, but then find out it is something else and you just uninstalled everything for nothing. Common grounding errors are like BSOD or restart out of no where, with mobo in the case. If these problems stop when you take everything out of the Case, then it is a clear indication of Grounding Problems. In this case you can take some electrical tape and stick it on the metal spacers between MOBO and metal spacers. You can also use Fiber Washers on top and bottom of the Motherboard. Hardware troubleshooting is nasty and time consuming. You basically have to unplug different devices one by one, then run different test and narrow the problem down to the culprit. If you are still getting grounding errors then your case chasis might be bent, not made properly, incompatible with mobo, etc. If you are getting annoyed by now reading my crap, imagine yourself banging your head in the wall if you actually have to troubleshoot hardware problem. I had to explain all this so you can understand why is it important to use washers. :)
 
MellowDude said:
Tried to email through a few Screen Shots and got this back

** Post your Overclocking Results on Dedicated MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI Website **​

Common buddy I have been waiting for your overclocking results and screen shots so I could post it on the website. :(
 
Ghostface Killah said:
What bios does the stock MSI Platinum come with?

Also, for those people who own the 6800 GT, what model did you guys get? Or does it not matter that much.


I'm looking at getting a new setup and I'm thinking about the evga 6800gt. I personally won't overclock it, so it may not be the best choice for me, any have suggestions based on me keeping it at stock speeds, perhaps the BFG?
 
OK Riscmaster, I see that you are really leading a crusade to tell everyone to go to bios version 3.0. Well I led the silly crusade to try and get MSI to acknowledge and correct the problem in the last few bios releases. Btw, the latest official release is 3.6 on the USA website.

Before I start flashing, lets define the 219 bug as I and many many others see it. I actually call it the 219 cold boot hypertransport bug. It doesnt have much to do with overclocking but more to do with the hypertransport bus speed and corresponding ht multiplier. For most of us, at 219fsb, we can cold boot post with the ht multiplier set at x5 or x4, but as soon as we set the fsb to 220, no cold boot post until we lower the ht multiplier to x3 (some with better cpus like san diegos hit this at 229fsb).

However, remember 2 things. The memclock must be set at 200 and the command rate at 1T. Let me know if you can do this.

Like I said, its not about overclocking but cold boot posting. I post at 200fsb with ht multy set at x4 and then I use clockgen and a startup.ini file to automatically boost my crucial ballistix tracer memory to 250fsb at timings of 2.5,2,2,6 1T and NO memory dividers (memclock at 200, prime95 stable 10 hrs). The hypertransport bus speed is at its rated maximum at 250x4=1000.

So like I said, if I do this in the bios, I have to set my ht multiplier to x1. Do I lose anything. Well yes, my 3dmark05 score with clockgen and my 6600gt = 4226. Through the bios, around 3800. This results in a 3-4 fps drop on a test of 19 fps to around 15-16 fps on the 3dmark05 test. Thats a LOT of fps to lose. So yes, the 219 cold boot hypertransport bug does impact real world performance.

So let me know, can you do this because I cannot see it in your posts or threads or website. Because if you cannot do this, welcome to the 219 bug club.
 
Ghostface Killah said:
Thanks.

So the thing cardboard washers go in between the motherboard and top of the screw. Top as in the top of the mobo and... yeah you get it.
Thanks

Did you make a typo error here or am I confused. Can you please explain it my friend.
 
RISCmaster said:
Did you make a typo error here or am I confused. Can you please explain it my friend.

So basically the washer goes on top of the mother board where the PCI slots are; then you put the washers in correct?

Last week after installing the new heatsink my computer would turn on but it would say no video signal on my monitor. I thought it was the PSU but it wasn't. So I RMA'ed basically everything. PRocessor, Video Card, and Mother board. Oh well hope it works just wanted to say that.
 
Is anyone have no post and post-post lock ups at stock clocks, voltages, and basically default bios settings? I tried upping the CPU voltage with no luck.
 
Ghostface Killah said:
So basically the washer goes on top of the mother board where the PCI slots are; then you put the washers in correct?

Last week after installing the new heatsink my computer would turn on but it would say no video signal on my monitor. I thought it was the PSU but it wasn't. So I RMA'ed basically everything. PRocessor, Video Card, and Mother board. Oh well hope it works just wanted to say that.

Since your are still online do you mind chating with me on my LIVE CHAT SUPPORT, that I just added on my MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI page. We can talk further on this issue.

Click here to LIVE CHAT SUPPORT.
 
MikeDeuce said:
Is anyone have no post and post-post lock ups at stock clocks, voltages, and basically default bios settings? I tried upping the CPU voltage with no luck.

This is a clear indication of some Hardware problem or wrong BIOS settings. Need more information so we can help. What are your BIOS settings. More info about your hardware components etc.
 
RISCmaster said:
Since your are still online do you mind chating with me on my LIVE CHAT SUPPORT, that I just added on my MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI page. We can talk further on this issue.

Click here to LIVE CHAT SUPPORT.
Hey I recieved your PM. Sorry I didnt repond fast enough.

Thanks for all the help though. Thank you
 
ChakkaSol said:
OK Riscmaster, I see that you are really leading a crusade to tell everyone to go to bios version 3.0. Well I led the silly crusade to try and get MSI to acknowledge and correct the problem in the last few bios releases. Btw, the latest official release is 3.6 on the USA website.

Before I start flashing, lets define the 219 bug as I and many many others see it. I actually call it the 219 cold boot hypertransport bug. It doesnt have much to do with overclocking but more to do with the hypertransport bus speed and corresponding ht multiplier. For most of us, at 219fsb, we can cold boot post with the ht multiplier set at x5 or x4, but as soon as we set the fsb to 220, no cold boot post until we lower the ht multiplier to x3 (some with better cpus like san diegos hit this at 229fsb).

However, remember 2 things. The memclock must be set at 200 and the command rate at 1T. Let me know if you can do this.

Like I said, its not about overclocking but cold boot posting. I post at 200fsb with ht multy set at x4 and then I use clockgen and a startup.ini file to automatically boost my crucial ballistix tracer memory to 250fsb at timings of 2.5,2,2,6 1T and NO memory dividers (memclock at 200, prime95 stable 10 hrs). The hypertransport bus speed is at its rated maximum at 250x4=1000.

Because if you cannot do this, welcome to the 219 bug club.

** MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI 219 FSB Bug Fix **

Hey ChakkaSol I am glad you contacted me since I was looking for you. Last month I did come across your 219 bug fix thread on MSI Forum under Overclockers & Modding Section when I was searching for solutions for my overclocking issues with MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI motherboard. After my success with these issues I wanted to post the whole story on your thread but could not find it. You can find the complete story and screen shots on my Dedicated MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI Website.

Well as you asked me, I did run some test for your 219 Cold Boot HyperTransport Bug.

Here is the setup:
CPU = AMD Athlon 64 3000+ Venice
Motherboard = MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI
BIOS = Version 3.0
RAM = Kingston HyperX 256MB x 2 DDR500 PC4000
Memory Command Rate = 1T
Memory Ratio = 200 MHz.

Here are different settings of successful cold boot post into Windows XP Pro

* Cold Boot Post Setting # 1 *
HyperTransport Multiplier = 5x
FSB = 246 MHz.
HT Speed = 1230 MHz.
CPU Speed = 2214.34 MHz.

Very Unstable while cold boot posting @ FSB = 247. Had to reset the CMOS after FSB = 250.
FSB = 280 MHz.
HT Speed = 1390.75 MHz.
CPU Speed = 2513.45 MHz.
Thou once in Windows after posing with FSB = 246, I further overclocked to the above settings using ClockGen and tested the system using SiSoftware Sandra 2005 Lite with Burn In Test and it passed. I could even go higher but did not try.

* Cold Boot Post Setting # 2 *
HyperTransport Multiplier = 4x
FSB = 280 MHz.
HT Speed = 1120 MHz.
CPU Speed = 2520 MHz.

* Cold Boot Post Setting # 3 *
HyperTransport Multiplier = 3x
FSB = 280 MHz.
HT Speed = 840 MHz.
CPU Speed = 2520 MHz.

With same settings here are different results of highest cold boot posting with different versions of BIOS.

Highest Cold Boot Post settings:
BIOS V3.0 = 294 FSB HT = 4X
BIOS V3.3 = 230 FSB HT = ANY
BIOS V3.4 = 237 FSB HT = ANY
BIOS V3.5 = 260 FSB HT = 4X

Final Thought: I thought I had 219 bug due to which I could not post beyond certain FSB no matter what settings I tried. But ever since I switched to BIOS V3.0 I have not had any issues. It lets you post into Windows no matter what FSB you throw at MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI motherboard. Since I am not planning on using dual core CPU any time soon so I am not worried about BIOS v3.0 for now. But thank you ChakkaSol for posting all the information on the forum, it did help me with the problems. That’s why I decided to join the forum as well and help others. But how do you put up with Tiresmoke @ MSI Forum, man that guy have some issues. He almost kicked me out of MSI Forum for nothing. I guess I won't be joining the 219 Bug Club.

BIOS VERSION 3.0 KICKS ASS. This is why I am telling everyone to use BIOS 3.0.

Highest FSB Achieved = 320 MHz RAM Speed = 320 MHz.
DDR Speed = 640 MHz.
With MEMClock Index Value = 200

Highest CPU Speed Achieved = 2770 MHz.
Further details and Screen shots posted on my Dedicated MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI Website.


If I would not have found this Forum Thread and MellowDude's Posting, I would have run my car over this Motherboard and bought DFI. I would not want anyone to go through the frustration; I had to, in order to achieve these results so I just want to help MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI community. HardOCP should give its Award back to this MOBO. This fine MOBO is getting all this bad reputation for nothing, so I decided to build a dedicated site for this MOBO where you can find FAQ, Download BIOS, Overclocking Utilities, Reviews & Awards, Motherboard Comparisons, Important links (like [H]ard|Forum Thread etc.), Overclocking Results. Please help me with my Dedicated MSI K8N NEO4 Website http://riscmaster.cybertechniquesinc.com ] with any suggestions or add on you have. I just added LIVE CHAT Support to this website. Check it out and don’t forget to sign the guestbook. Let me know if you want me to test anything else or you need my input. I’ll be glad to help.
 
I'm glad to see the good results for you, however, the problems were with some Winchester CPU's and no matter what bios you run, they still won't perform without issues on the board. If you waited to get this board until after the Venices came out, then you're fine, but I got it right away with a Winchester and had nothing but problems. I finally sold the board and am using this Chaintech :).
 
RISCmaster said:
This is a clear indication of some Hardware problem or wrong BIOS settings. Need more information so we can help. What are your BIOS settings. More info about your hardware components etc.

Flashed to bios v3.4 with the winflash/msi util.

My BIOS settings are pretty close to default with a few very minor things changed (boot order, no A:\ drive). But I can get a more specific/detailed answer after work.

I have yet to try removing the mobo from the case, nor have I tested with all the cards removed (though I didn't have this problem a week ago with all the same cards), but that is my next step unless you guys can already detect any fatal flaws.

Here is everything that is electrically connected to my system
Antec Phantom 500w
A64 3000+ Venice
K8N Neo4 Platinum SLI
2gb Crucial Value PC3200
2 250gb Wester Digital (WD2500KS SATAII -- Using SATA 1 & 2
BFG 6800GT PCI-E
BFG MX4000 PCI
ATI HDTV Wonder PCI
Sound blaster live! external usb (damn -5v requirement)
Liteon DVDRW / Liteon CDRW
eheim/innovatek 12v 1046 (CPU/NB/GPU are water cooled)
USB multi-card reader / Razer Diamondback / Saitek Eclipse
 
MikeD, install the d-bracket and see where it stops...second, try booting with 1 mem stick installed...third, bios 3.1 or 3.5 has proven to be more stable for me. 3.3 and 3.4 has known problems. Luck.
 
Thanks for the advice, Chakka.

I have tried the ram idea with no change in result. The d-bracket usually shows the #1/top left LED in red, with the rest in green when the lockup occurs. I will give 3.1/3.5 a try, thanks!
 
If you have gotten that far, then the dbracket is saying that all of your hardware check out. So, I guess I would try 2 things. Flash from an Official MSI website only bios version 3.1 or 3.5 and see if that corrects the problem.

Otherwise, you may have to re-install winxp all over again. However, did you change anything recently that caused this? I havent followed your posts well enough to figure out your whole story.

And another thing before you reinstall winxp and although this is a good site to vent about MSI, I would go to the MSI forum and post your problem. And it seems you have a real problem. They have a lot more "experienced" problem solvers that are way better than me to figure this out. The forum link is here:
http://forum.msi.com.tw/index.php?sid=
 
What does everyone recommend for me to get to 2GB of system RAM; I can add 2 more 512 sticks of Geil, or I can replace my 2 current 512 sticks and replace them with 2 1GB sticks. I know that the Venice core Athlons can handle 4x512, but I believe I would have to run my RAM at slower timings correct?
 
TwinTurboJosh said:
What does everyone recommend for me to get to 2GB of system RAM; I can add 2 more 512 sticks of Geil, or I can replace my 2 current 512 sticks and replace them with 2 1GB sticks. I know that the Venice core Athlons can handle 4x512, but I believe I would have to run my RAM at slower timings correct?

I have been thinking about doing the same thing as I am using 256mb x 2 Kingston HyperX DDR500. I have 3 sticks of this RAM but I can use only 2 for dual channel 128bit configuration. I have been debating to get the 4th stick so I can run dual channel of 1GB or get 512mb x 2.

Beware, there is an issue with MSI K8N NEO4 PLATINUM/SLI Motherboard of not working with 4 sticks of RAM. I came across it in one of the forums somewhere. I personally tried filling all 4 slots with 256 x 4 but the Motherboard did not boot at all with even default BIOS settings in BIOS V3.3. But I still have doubts since these were not identical sticks because I used 3 sticks of Kingston HyperX DDR500 and 1 stick of 256 Corsair XMS DDR466 PC3700. I wonder if BIOS 3.0 also have this issue. I will test this again soon when I get some time under BIOS 3.0 and let you know what happens.

Any ways I have noticed that running dual channel with 2 stick have the least amount of issues and fewer the RAM sticks more can the RAM be overclocked thus better performance. When RAM runs in Dual Channel 128 bit mode, all the sticks have to extremely syncronized that is why you need exactly identical sticks of RAM. Running 2 sticks syncronized is easier than 4. So I would definitely go with 1GB x 2.
 
When I boot up it tells me that my PCIE slots are running @ 8x. Now is that correct since I run SLI that it's 8x for each and 16x for both? Or should it tell me 16x at boot?
 
As some of you know I RMA"ed my motherboard.

Can I just install the mobo with my old hard drive configuartion and hope all works well since I used the same mother board before?
 
Ghostface Killah said:
As some of you know I RMA"ed my motherboard.

Can I just install the mobo with my old hard drive configuartion and hope all works well since I used the same mother board before?

Yes I would try that first, and hopefully everything will go fine this time if your previous Motherboard was the culprit. I would try testing everything outside the case to eliminate any grounding issues.
 
RISCmaster said:
Yes I would try that first, and hopefully everything will go fine this time if your previous Motherboard was the culprit. I would try testing everything outside the case to eliminate any grounding issues.
How would I set everyting outside the case safely and secure so I don't have to RMA anything again?
I know that the motherboard should be on top of the nostatic bag that it came with, but what about the hard drive and PSU?
 
Ghostface Killah said:
How would I set everyting outside the case safely and secure so I don't have to RMA anything again?
I know that the motherboard should be on top of the nostatic bag that it came with, but what about the hard drive and PSU?

DO NOT START IT UP SITTING ON THE ANTI-STATIC BAG!

The bag will protect it from a static discharge while it's INSIDE it, but it is not non-conductive(at least not the silver-foil looking ones). If you're going to start it up outside the case you're better off putting it on a cardboard box, or a rubber mousepad or something rather than the anti-static bag. YMMV and I know many people are going to claim that they do it all the time and nothing goes wrong, but the silver-looking bags can and may conduct a current so why chance ruining your freshly RMA'd board?

BTW, has anyone tried the new 3.6 BIOS yet? Any results to report?
 
Ghostface Killah said:
How would I set everyting outside the case safely and secure so I don't have to RMA anything again?
I know that the motherboard should be on top of the nostatic bag that it came with, but what about the hard drive and PSU?

** HOW TO TEST YOUR COMPUTER OUTSIDE THE CASE **​
  • GROUND YOURSELF BY TOUCHING THE PSU OR CASE CHASIS WITH THE POWER CABLE PLUGGED IN TO AVOID ANY ESD.

  • First I would lay the case on the bench sideways laying on it side panel so you can extend the power supply wires to reach the Motherboard and other components easily. Remove the side panels to avoid any scratches or dents. You can also take the PSU out of the case too if it sounds easier.

  • Lay the Motherboard on the cardboard box it came with. You might want lay the Hard on a cardboard or upside down to avoid any short circuit due to any conductive material.

  • Install the CPU, one stick of RAM, Video Card (lay the Motherboard on the edge of the box so you can fit in the card).

  • Hook up all the cables,

  • To start the Motherboard you will need a spare jumper, or small screw driver to short the power jumper on the Motherboard(spare jumper is easier, or barely touch the power jumper with a small flat head screw driver). If this is too hard for you, connect the computer case power switch wire to the motherboard(if it can extend to the Mobo).

You are good to go now. Install Windows and test thoroughly before you install everything back in the case. To make sure you had a bad Motherboard or something else. If you get any errors inside the case but not outside then you are having grounding issues. For that read my previous post http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1028007198&postcount=690

GOOD LUCK! :)
 
Ghostface Killah said:
Thank you very much RISCMaster
No Problem, and remember to GROUND YOURSELF BY TOUCHING THE PSU OR CASE CHASIS WITH THE POWER CABLE PLUGGED IN TO AVOID ANY ESD.
 
RISCmaster,

I still can't flick the email through to you.

Here's the latest bounce back a couple of minutes ago.

I been very busy with work ove rthe last few days which is why I've been somewhat absent from the forums.

This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification

Delivery to the following recipient failed permanently:

[email protected]

Technical details of permanent failure:
PERM_FAILURE: DNS Error: Domain name not found

----- Original message -----

Received: by 10.54.116.20 with SMTP id o20mr1335647wrc;
Fri, 29 Jul 2005 07:02:36 -0700 (PDT)
Received: by 10.54.120.17 with HTTP; Fri, 29 Jul 2005 07:02:36 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 02:02:36 +1200
From: MellowDude <[email protected]>
Reply-To: MellowDude <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: MellowDudes O/C Shots
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
boundary="----=_Part_6241_3200557.1122645756549"

------=_Part_6241_3200557.1122645756549
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

Riscmaster,

Here's a few screen shots as requested.
 
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