not PC specific but OLED?

groebuck

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I need ot replace my TV in the living room - my budget is 2000-2500

My choices in theat range are

OLED65C9AUA

Sony a8g

PX75-G1

tow are oled, on is quantum dot - top two are 65 inch bottom is 75 inch

Vizio is 2199
Sonys is 2399
LG is 2499

what do I do ???
 
so c9 over 75inch led?

The LG C9 has a 77" model.

When in doubt, consult rtings.com:

LG C9: https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c9-oled

Sony A8G: https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/a8g-oled

Vizio V Series: https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/v-series-2019 [No specific review for the VX]

Looks to be between the LG and Sony, disregarding price. Per ratings:

The LG C9 OLED is a bit better than the Sony A8G. The C9 supports many new technologies, including HDMI 2.1 on all four HDMI ports, as well as eARC, and HDMI Forum's new variable refresh rate technology, great for Xbox One gamers. The C9 also has significantly less input lag, which is great for gaming or use as a PC monitor.

Everything points to the LG C9.
 
yeah I have been back and fourth with reseller ratings - Burn in is my fear

this one just enetered the competition
QN75Q9FNAFXZA for a refurb 1999 - a 75 inch q9
 
The Sony is an LG panel with Sony processor.

From what I've heard, the 2018+ C and up Models from LG are almost as good as the Sony processor now, and there wasn't a huge difference to begin with.

C9 supports HDMI 2.1 VRR -- that's awfully hard to gloss over for me.

I can understand the burn-in fear. I've got a C7, I've not had any issues with mine and, after having had it for a couple of years... even if it did have burn-in I'd have no problem going out and buying another. The picture is that much better.
 
Another C9 vote. Great all around TV.

Quantum Dot stuff, doesn't in any way change LCD issues. It's just a filter sheet that improves the backlight, so it can do wider color gamut.

The is no comparison to OLED. Forever banish backlight bleed, flashlighting, blooming, poor viewing angles, etc...

Burn in is really only a concern if you abuse it.
 
We have an older HD (not 4K) LG OLED. All I can say it that it was and still is great. It's used a minimum of 12 hours every day. In case people wonder how well these hold up over time. I think we may be past 4 years on it, might be approaching 5.
 
LCD image quality is pathetic compared to oled. I would take a 65" oled over any size LCD. Don't listen to the idiots that try to tell you LCD is better.
 
Ya I'm not even sure how LCD TV's are a thing with OLED out there. Charge MORE for an inferior product.
 
C9, no question. The new Vizio is a downgrade compared to the older PQ65 so I wouldn't even consider it if an OLED is in your list of possibilities.
 
Ya I'm not even sure how LCD TV's are a thing with OLED out there. Charge MORE for an inferior product.


Essentially this. Samsung makes a pretty good backlight, but they can't get rid of the small number of back light zones (adding enough independent zones to make it seamless would you way more than the OLED costs).

I own an OLED screen. and have zero burn-in, after owning for a year and a half, and using it for a n HTPC. Just know what you are getting into, and mix-up the content you view (mix up browsing/productivity with equal amounts of fullscreen video/fullscreen games), and run a black screensaver.

As long as you don't plan to just do "one thing and nothing else," (e.g view only a single news channel with a ticker on the brightest settings) OLED TV is perfect for you.
 
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IMHO, on their higher end sets, Samsung uses the "bright" technique to make things look "dark". If you want a Q-beam in the face, Samsung is your set choice.
 
As long as you don't plan to just do "one thing and nothing else," (e.g view only a single news channel with a ticker on the brightest settings) OLED TV is perfect for you.

Even then, you can use a zoom function to crop out any of the tickers, channel IDs that are on screen permanently, so zero worries, if you take precautions.
 
Check out HDTVTest channel on YT for video reviews. Rtings is good for comparisons and measurements.

Unless it's going in a super bright room or you can't trust kids/wife to not abuse the TV then I'd go OLED.

Sony has more accurate colors and the processor is generally regarded as the best for handling motion; their prices however, are hard to stomach. LG is a better value...might be a good deal on BF too if you can wait.

LG also has the SoC for Dolby Vision which is nice. I believe there's an issue with DV on Sonys related to brightness. People say it's too dim. Vincent Teoh in his Sony TV reviews has also said this, that DV doesn't look as vibrant as it does on the LG, but he says he doesn't know why.

If you're trying to save a buck you can go the greentoe route but honestly I would rather purchase locally and have the option for quick and hassle-free returns. The panel lottery is real and I hate getting dead pixels.
 
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Check out HDTVTest channel on YT for video reviews. Rtings is good for comparisons and measurements.

Unless it's going in a super bright room or you can't trust kids/wife to not abuse the TV then I'd go OLED.

Sony has more accurate colors and the processor is generally regarded as the best for handling motion; their prices however, are hard to stomach. LG is a better value...might be a good deal on BF too if you can wait.

LG also has the SoC for Dolby Vision which is nice. I believe there's an issue with DV on Sonys related to brightness. People say it's too dim. Vincent Teoh in his Sony TV reviews has also said this, that DV doesn't look as vibrant as it does on the LG, but he says he doesn't know why.

If you're trying to save a buck you can go the greentoe route but honestly I would rather purchase locally and have the option for quick and hassle-free returns. The panel lottery is real and I hate getting dead pixels.
BF is no good for higher end TVs. If you want a 80" Sharp pos for $300 sure then wait for BF. Prices been steadily coming down by the month on LG OLEDs online. In stores not so much.
 
BF is no good for higher end TVs. If you want a 80" Sharp pos for $300 sure then wait for BF. Prices been steadily coming down by the month on LG OLEDs online. In stores not so much.
Ah Ok, I never paid much attention to the TV deals on BF. Looking for drives to shucc
 
So Costco is running a deal on the 65 inch B9 - with an addtional 3 years square trade so 5 years of warranty (2 on LG with the double manufacturers from costo + 3 more from SQ) for 2544, I know I can get it for about 2K through ebay but the 5 year warranty might be worth the 500 dollars.
 

HDR high dynamic range 3d color Gamut ~ color volume
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OLED TVs use ABL to cap the peaks at 600nit which means the whole scene drops to well below 600nit, even in what would otherwise have been a mostly 600nit scene outside of the peak light sources. SDR is around 350 - 400nit so OLED's overall scene isn't really doing much more, + 200 to 250nit of highlights including the peak sources and everything else tone mapped down. It's an improvement sure, but OLED will never be able to go into real HDR heights of HDR 1000, HDR 1400 - 1600, and HDR 4000 and 10,000 color volume that games, photos, and some movies and videos are capable of if they had the hardware to do it on (movies are mastered at HDR 10,000, uhd HDR discs vary currently between 1000, a bunch of 4000, and a select few 10,0000 like blade runner 2049).

The Rtings burn in tests were made at 200nits on all except their CNN extreme torture test which was tested at 380nits. So none of them were torture tested at HDR color brightness levels. The Dell gaming OLED that they are supposed to make is reported to be 400nit cap with no HDR and I doubt this is a coincidence. Whether burn in matters to you or not (It does to many people spending over $2k on a tv or monitor), you are still shackled by the ABL cap either way in regard to HDR material.

---------<end quote.-----------

ABL tradeoff vs FALD tradeoff, mostly "only" an issue for OLED when considering HDR material
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NVsBTV1.png

I'm still considering a C9 OLED or the living room someday since the HDTV test video review of the samsung C90 FALD VA LCD had some issues with overbrightness blow out and that it doesn't use full hdmi 2.1 48Gbps hdmi ports. Considering the LG C9 - I'd like some hdmi2.1 devices out for it to be tested on first. It would also need to support eArc properly since as far as I'm aware it still does not currently and that is a huge issue to me for uncompressed 7.2 surround without having to buy a new $900 - $1200 receiver. Hopefully C9's will get full eArc support from a firmware update eventually. Assuming those both pass at some point, a sale price in 2020 on a 77" one and I'd likely bite.

So Costco is running a deal on the 65 inch B9 - with an addtional 3 years square trade so 5 years of warranty (2 on LG with the double manufacturers from costo + 3 more from SQ) for 2544, I know I can get it for about 2K through ebay but the 5 year warranty might be worth the 500 dollars.
Just be aware warranty wise that there is zero burn in warranty for any period, not one year, 6 months, nothing. With the ABL brigthness drop reflex most of the risk is mitigated if careful but be aware that the infamous Rtings burn in test didn't use any HDR brightness levels whatsoever.

My main concerns for burn would be:
----------------------------------------------------
-hardware device failures. Devices/apps frozen on screen from crashing
-PC desktop notification popups stuck on, game crash, bios screen freezing on during reboot, windows update etc.
-wallpapers, icons, slim edges of taskbars, mouse cursor, stickykeys or other random OS/app popups or windows stuck on.
-ps4 loading/user screen on crash/reboot
-nvidia shield screensaver notification texts, clock, reboot screen freeze, currently running app freeze etc.
-emby/plex shuffle play "jukeboxing" of videos loading something with a logo or text or other static element, app freeze. etc.
- TV osd popup and even drill downs being activated by the remote and and stuck on (cats most likely)
-The tv's OSD/system itself locking up and still showing a static screen or screen element.
- surround receiver "bios" configuration screens being activated on remote and stuck on tv.

-gaming HUDs on games I put hours into (weeks, months) at a time
-Overlay "bulliten board" style youtube and twitch backdrops on long material and often viewed material. Logos, chat box backgrounds, informational/advertising static text pinned up, etc. all on the same static screen with only smaller windows showing non static video content. Sessions of things like D&D game series last 2 hours or more and I sometimes play whole series on a playlist so they can be shown for a very long time.

-static HDR imagery/elements, frozen HDR content.

-Overall Viewing Time. With rotating schedules and some days worked from home between us, my TV is often on all day and night unless sleeping.

-forgetting to turn the TV off when leaving home, falling asleep with it on, going to bathroom then to bed and forgetting, tv randomly turned on via remote, etc. potentially combined with any of the above scenarios.
-daily local and national news programming's "desktops" and logos on OTA antenna feed
-girlfriend's usage habits
 
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My main concerns for burn would be:
----------------------------------------------------
-hardware device failures. Devices/apps frozen on screen from crashing
-PC desktop notification popups stuck on, game crash, bios screen freezing on during reboot, windows update etc.
-wallpapers, icons, slim edges of taskbars, mouse cursor, stickykeys or other random OS/app popups or windows stuck on.
-ps4 loading/user screen on crash/reboot
-nvidia shield screensaver notification texts, clock, reboot screen freeze, currently running app freeze etc.
-emby/plex shuffle play "jukeboxing" of videos loading something with a logo or text or other static element, app freeze. etc.
- TV osd popup and even drill downs being activated by the remote and and stuck on (cats most likely)
-The tv's OSD/system itself locking up and still showing a static screen or screen element.
- surround receiver "bios" configuration screens being activated on remote and stuck on tv.
----------------------------------------------------

These are almost all nonsense. Your screen isn't going to burn in, from an afternoon of something stuck.

Now if you are going on a 6 months sabbatical leaving your screen powered while you are gone, then some kind of crash locking something on your screen would be an actual issue.

In reality the above are non issue items.

Real issues are using it as your main PC monitor with taskbar for hours/day, month after month. That will eventually burn in.

Or watching the same station continuously with the same logo Burning in hours/day, month after month.

It's hours per, day for months/years on end that burns things in. Not one afternoon glitch.
 
Not entirely untrue, Reseller ratings have done year long burn in tests. Turns out cnn today show etc those logos have blow out and can burn in in a couple months. Over all they showed TVs running constantly for a year have some noticeable burn in but only on channels where you would predict it, news channels, sports etc.
 
LG OLED TVs have a built-in screen saver when it detects a static image has been on for too long.

You could choose to disable this, if you were trying to use it as a digital billboard or something, but with the understanding your increasing the risk of burn in.
 
These are almost all nonsense. Your screen isn't going to burn in, from an afternoon of something stuck.

Now if you are going on a 6 months sabbatical leaving your screen powered while you are gone, then some kind of crash locking something on your screen would be an actual issue.

In reality the above are non issue items.

Real issues are using it as your main PC monitor with taskbar for hours/day, month after month. That will eventually burn in.

Or watching the same station continuously with the same logo Burning in hours/day, month after month.

It's hours per, day for months/years on end that burns things in. Not one afternoon glitch.
Thanks for the feedback. I understand some of the stuff is rather unlikely, especially the half you replied with. but would still make me a little anxious on such an expensive (77" model) tv.

You left half of the concerns I listed out of your reply, understandably since you were focusing on the least likely ones. but here are the others.

-gaming HUDs on games I put hours into (weeks, months) at a time
-Overlay "bulliten board" style youtube and twitch backdrops on long material and often viewed material. Logos, chat box backgrounds, informational/advertising static text pinned up, etc. all on the same static screen with only smaller windows showing non static video content. Sessions of things like D&D game series last 2 hours or more and I sometimes play whole series on a playlist so they can be shown for a very long time.

-static HDR imagery/elements, frozen HDR content.

-Overall Viewing Time. With rotating schedules and some days worked from home between us, my TV is often on all day and night unless sleeping.

-forgetting to turn the TV off when leaving home, falling asleep with it on, going to bathroom then to bed and forgetting, tv randomly turned on via remote, etc. potentially combined with any of the above scenarios.
-daily local and national news programming's "desktops" and logos on OTA antenna feed
-girlfriend's usage habits

-----------------
As I said I haven't ruled a 77inch c9 oled tv out but I want to tell the op and the warranty reply that there is zero warranty on burn in no matter what you spend on warrantys , ABL(and stuff like pixel shifting, Screensaver etc. ) mitigates most of the risk but it can still happen even if unlikely.

ABL is also limiting in its own tradeoffs in HDR color volune and overall screen dimming. Also that the rtings tests were all done in sdr nits below 400nit. Most at 200nit and the harshest CNN one at 380nit. HDR material should generally be less static than logos though so probably not an issue. Still worth mentioning HDR highlights can hit almost 800nit peak in lg oled and ABL kicks the whole scene down to 600nit including the bright sources so the whole scene can be considerably dimmer than 600nit HDR color volume / 3d color gamut. SDR is up to about 350 to 400nit before it clips so I like to call oled hdr and other hdr 400 and HDR 600 displays "SDR plus" in regard to color volume.

Still LG Oled tvs look amazing and side by side emmissive pixels and black depths are incredible. Considering the 2019 samsung fald causes overbright clipping/washout past reference hdr 1000 when viewing HDR 1000 material senselessly and it's lack of 48gbs hdmi 2.1 ports the lg oled is looking better and better for a living room tv. I'd need hdmi 2.1 sources tested on it and absolutely need it to fully support uncompressed audio over eArc though.
 
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LG It is then.

A wise choice! Congrats- you will very much enjoy OLED. Speaking as a C7 owner for two years now, the picture quality is unrivaled.

Pro tip: when you get your OLED, the “OLED Light” setting should be set down to somewhere between 35-45, depending on your preference. I had mine calibrated a couple months after purchase, and ended up with a setting of around 35 (I upped it to 40). Not only does it not drive the OLED as hard, you’ll greatly mitigate the chances of burn in, on top of all the other built-in burn in prevention utilities.

The is no comparison to OLED. Forever banish backlight bleed, flashlighting, blooming, poor viewing angles, etc...

I want to highlight this part of your quote as most of these (non) issues get overlooked when discussing OLED, especially since HDR tends to always be the focus of display conversations around here. And for new buyers like Groebuck, it’s important to know. It’s true; there’s no matching LCD when it comes to HDR peak nits, but OLED excels over LCD in virtually all other areas of display technology.
 
You left half of the concerns I listed out of your reply, understandably since you were focusing on the least likely ones. but here are the others.

You put your list in quotes. So it disappeared when I replied to your message. Next I just went up the screen and highlighted and copied that section, maybe without expanding the quotes, so that was all that showed up or all I noticed. You may have some legitmate issues in there but really, I am going to stop after reading so many insubstantial ones.

It don't give a fig about about super brightness/color volume of higher end LCD. I might buy a cheap LCD, because it's cheap, but once we get to OLED price parity, it's no contest IMO.
 
These are almost all nonsense. Your screen isn't going to burn in, from an afternoon of something stuck.

Now if you are going on a 6 months sabbatical leaving your screen powered while you are gone, then some kind of crash locking something on your screen would be an actual issue.

In reality the above are non issue items.

Real issues are using it as your main PC monitor with taskbar for hours/day, month after month. That will eventually burn in.

Or watching the same station continuously with the same logo Burning in hours/day, month after month.

It's hours per, day for months/years on end that burns things in. Not one afternoon glitch.

Temporary burn-in happens a lot sooner than you think. I have a B7A. While I was at work one day, my TV and BDP got turned on (I'm assuming a cat stepped on the Harmony remote). Ended up with a white line and some text burned-in from the movie's menu. I don't know how long it was on, but it would have been 8 hours max since that's my work day and I have a 5 minute commute. Thankfully running the built in pixel refresh took care of it, but it gave me a scare (TV was about a month old).

I'm not trying to spread burn-in hysteria because I do believe that it is a non-issue with normal use, and I wouldn't trade my OLED TV for anything, but it is absolutely something that OLED owners need to be aware of and ensure they take the proper precautions to avoid. I ended up locking the screen on my remote and haven't had a problem since.
 
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My thought of HDR is you don’t need to be as bright when you can go down to infinite dark - the contrast is what makes the image.

now that obviously sucks if your in a bright room. But not having to deal with FALD zones is worth giving up peak brightness for me
 
Temporary burn-in happens a lot sooner than you think. I have a B7A. While I was at work one day, my TV and BDP got turned on (I'm assuming a cat stepped on the Harmony remote). Ended up with a white line and some text burned-in from the movie's menu. I don't know how long it was on, but it would have been 8 hours max since that's my work day and I have a 5 minute commute. Thankfully running the built in pixel refresh took care of it, but it gave me a scare (TV was about a month old).

I'm not trying to spread burn-in hysteria because I do believe that it is a non-issue with normal use, and I wouldn't trade my OLED TV for anything, but it is absolutely something that OLED owners need to be aware of and ensure they take the proper precautions to avoid. I ended up locking the screen on my remote and haven't had a problem since.

You need to differentiate, between image retention, and burn in.

Image retention is nothing, you can run a refresh cycle and it's gone.

Burn in is permanent.
 
The problem with LED 'peak nits' is that they can't actually use them on many images, due to the highlights being just way smaller than an actual zone. If a highlight is smaller than a zone, maxing out brightness just elevates black level surrounding the highlight as well, eliminating any real contrast benefit. A lot of HDR highlights are only a handful of pixels eg light reflecting off something or a small car tail light on a wide angle scene. That combined with the fact that the reality is 90% of content you watch is still SDR, and when there's no HDR highlights involved, true black completely dominates for contrast.

Overall there's a reason the OLEDs always get rated the best for HDR content even though LED manufacturers try to muddy the waters with their silly peak nit numbers.
 
I agree that for now OLEDs look great but they are missing about 400nits of color gamut gradations in HDR 1000 content, and they'll probably never get to that HDR 1000, (or later to HDR 1400, 4000, and 10,000) content capability due to their burn in risk restrictions. Only a few very expensive dual layer LCD professional post-production displays can really show all the way through and up to 1000nits of color gamut / color height properly right now but the 1552 zone FALD pro art displays are proably very good while still having some glow halo issues like you are describing. On FALD (as opposed to the dual layer lcds) it's a trade off between a light halo edging (glow) or dim halo (vignetting) edging on the brightest colors next to darks and on OLED ABL turning the entire scene down to 600nit overall, bulk of it under 600nits which is only a few hundred nit of color volume added. SDR is like 350 - 400nit so quasi HDR screens add about 200nit of color height (or practically nothing other than a label on HDR400 screens)... HDR1000 displays add about 600nit of color height. That's why I call hdr 600 tvs "SDR plus" , but it's still pretty great overall on OLEDs for the time being even if it's only adding a few hundred nit of color. In addition to all of that, there is still mainly a lot of SDR content.
That's also probably why most if not all games use variable white points and a user adjustable sliding scale of HDR gamma instead of absolute values that HDR was desgined for - because hardly any displays are capable of displaying reference HDR1000 content yet. So they have to use HLG (Hybrid Log Gamme) quasi HDR gamma curves to compensate for inferior to HDR 1000 displays and bright SDR displays claiming HDR cabability (and that's much of the "HDR" displays people own between the two). PQ (perceptual quantization) uses absolute values for colors based on real life so you never have to adjust gamma to compensate.


So yes considering all of the other benefits of OLED, for now dipping into "SDR+" HLG still exceeds regular SDR enough to be appreciable and is one of the best non gaming featured (for the most part for now due to sources) displays you can get for the next year under a $4000 - $5000 32" 4k pro art display (though gaming wise they have 120hz support on displayport as well as variable refresh rate off of current gpus and tvs don't since nvidia has no hdmi 2.1 gpus), or a $10,000 - $25,000 professional reference display using dual layer lcd.

The samsung Q9FN samsung flaship FALD tier in 2019 named Q90 with what I hoped would be hdmi 2.1 held promise as a FALD alternative to an OLED TV for me but once I read reviews I learned they had done a number of things wrong like using their ~ 1600nit brightness capability in HDR 1000 reference based material without letting you turn off the "overage" in the OSD or presets. This washes out detail or clips. They also don't have hdmi 2.1 48gbps capable hdmi ports, and their native contrast outside of FALD is half of the Q9fn (you'd always use dynamic backlight though but still..).
 
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One recommendation: The *only* time I ever experienced any form of temporary burn in on my C6 panel was the default Windows HDR background, which was left on when I walked away and had an app minimized that disabled my screensaver (whoops). Since then, I've been using a default black background just for extra piece of mind. I'm also a lot more cognizant to remember to turn off the TV when I walk away.

Static elements are a concern; about the only thing I can recommend is to be cognizant, and cycle the display to something else every other hour or so just to be safe. It would be nice if everything had transparency support, which would certainly help a bit.

OLEDs are awesome, but you do need to be a little cognizant of their downsides. Three years with my B6 and no major problems, but I have been taking *very* good care of it.
 
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Yes stuff like that are things I mentioned among my concerns... one of those listed was " -static HDR imagery/elements, frozen HDR content.". Thanks for the honest feedback and warning.


Hardware and apps can do quirky things and freeze something on the screen. Like you said, an oddball thing of an app left on or an accidental click from a falling mouse/remote/gamepad/keyboard or cats launching something somehow that disables the screensaver while running etc. Or some device's bios (or the tv itself's osd) stuck on reboot or fw update or video output from HDR movie or game getting frozen/crashed with whatever info or pattern with some pixels blinking or never ending yet animated progress meter or numbers % "moving" or blinking warning/error message or some such enough to not register as a static screen for the screensaver of the tv to kick on. Theoretically this could run as long as 24hrs before someone noticed at my place. Outside of the tv itself getting stuck in some osd or frazzeled screen I'd guess OLED tvs have a timer in the osd you can utilize to turn it off automatically after a set timespan (after a warning popup) even if things are running/playing though. That would avoid all but the worst case TV hardware/firmware/bios/osd crash type scenarios I'd think.

Another concern is that I have my TV on all the time practically unless sleeping and even then sometimes. Working rotating shifts much of the time between us, we have it on all the time and while either gets to do work from home... We (especially my gf when I'm away) also fall asleep on our big sectional comfortable couch sometimes with movies or playlists/jukebox or live streams of content playing. So the hours used will be very much on the high end of the spectrum.

Perhaps not quite as much of a risk on a 2018 - 2019 55" for $1200 - $1600 with tax (or less on sale, older models, etc) .. but I'd have some risk on a considerable purchase buying a 77" 2019 C9 , even if I wait for one on sale some months from now after they hopefully get uncompressed audio over eArc working 100%. I've seen 77" C9 OLEDs for $5500 + tax (~ $5980) but now I've seen a few listings at $4300 (~$4676 after tax) so far. That's still quite high for me currently (I wish they made a 70", I don't want to downsize to a 65"). I'm pretty sure it will go a bit lower into the middle to lower $3000 ranges eventually next year somewhere though.

I'm still not 100% decided either way but the samsung C90's are definitely out of the running now. Maybe I'll read up on what sony has while waiting on uncompressed audio eArc support and 77" c9 pricing.
 
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Samsung's QLEDs may be a more reasonable alternative in your case; you lose some picture quality, as well as HDMI 2.1 and thus don't have access to 4k120, but do at least have access to Freesync over HDMI (which I *believe* is limited to AMD GPUs at the moment? Anyone have anything more specific?). Not sure how the prices compare offhand though.

I've also heard the newer OLEDs are more resistant to burn in relative to the older ones, but I can't comment on that as I haven't seen anything technical to prove/disprove this.

I will say my best recommendation is to turn the TV off if you step away for more then a few minutes, and set a relatively short screensaver (Mine is 15 minute default) just in case.
 
I ended up with 65 inch LG oled b9 model. Love it. Had to cailbrate for SDR but HDR is pretty no brainer out of the box.
 
I keep wanting true PQ HDR and hdmi 2.1 120hz VRR 4k to be here already but it really won't be for awhile, both due to limited range displays and also lack of hdmi 2.1 hardware sources. At least the C9's have hdmi 2.1 48gbps ports on them so they look like the only real flagship TV hdmi 2.1 in town right now as far as future compatibility goes.


Glad you are happy with what you got groebuck.
 
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