New Build - Need Advice Please!

Yes, it should beep without the RAM installed.

Does it beep without the RAM and vidcard?
 
enginurd said:
... or dead PSU, or dead CPU.
Click to expand...

PSU is showing correct voltages and the GPU wasn't giving me the "Ring of Death" by not getting enough power so I think that can be ruled out.

As for the CPU - if I remove that can I expect a beep code? I'm basically trying to figure out what the culprit is by process of producing a beep code which, so far, has been to no avail.
 
I've done a bit more testing:

CPU, GPU, and RAM removed - the system powers up, stays on for about 5s and then shuts down and the green (power) LED on the motherboard turns off - no beep codes.

CPU and GPU removed - the system powers up, stays on for about 5s and then shuts down and the green (power) LED on the motherboard turns off - no beep codes.

CPU and RAM removed - the system powers up and stays powered up - but no beep codes. No video output.

CPU removed - the system powers up and stays powered up - but no beep codes. No video output.

What should I be looking for on the PSU end to ensure that it isn't causing these problems?
 
You won't get beeps without a CPU. Try it without the vidcard and RAM, and listen for beeps.

When re-seating the CPU, did you notice any bent pins on the motherboard socket?

If you have a multi-meter, you can use the paperclip trick to jump-start the PSU and test the voltages.
 
enginurd said:
1)You won't get beeps without a CPU. Try it without the vidcard and RAM, and listen for beeps.

2) When re-seating the CPU, did you notice any bent pins on the motherboard socket?

3) If you have a multi-meter, you can use the paperclip trick to jump-start the PSU and test the voltages.
Click to expand...

1) Thought I had posted about that eariler - same hang with no beeps with just the CPU.

2) All pins appear to be straight.

3) Yep, doing that in a moment. Could you give me some info on which two wires I short to get it to start up? I'm just looking for +12v, -12v, +5v, -5v, +3.3v, and -3.3v within tolerance, correct?
 
Heh, I thought that was a question... (if no ram/no vidcard = no beep, = dead board?) I didn't realize that was your result, lol. Sorry about that.

Yah, pretty much. Short the green and any black wire, then turn the PSU on. You can probe the red and yellow wires of the molex connectors, as well as the other pins of the 24-pin ATX connector if you like.

Its pretty hard to troubleshoot without spare parts. No friends nearby with a PSU you could try it with, or a board to test your CPU? etc
 
enginurd said:
Its pretty hard to troubleshoot without spare parts. No friends nearby with a PSU you could try it with, or a board to test your CPU? etc
Click to expand...

The only people I know in this whole state are my parents*, and there are no spare parts :(

* Staying with them over Christmas
 
PSU:

12v EXACTLY
5v EXACTLY
3.3v EXACTLY

I'm sending this board back and replacing it with a GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L, I'll post back with results when I get the new board.

This is the second board I've purchased from Abit and the second time I've had a faulty/bad board from them (assuming that is the problem here)... not very thrilled.
 
Seems unfortunate that you had that bad luck. A lot of people have had good success with the IP35-E but bad boards do happen. Well, hopefully it really is the board and everything will work when you get your DS3L. Good luck.
 
I may actually opt for the P35-DS3R, I've got room in the budget for a slightly more expensive board.

I too hope the board was the problem or I'm going to be out alot of cash!
 
I have the DS3R and the IP35 vanilla. I like both, but I like the gigabyte better. The P5K-E is a great choice -- I think it has the best price for the features you get. If you don't need those features, stick with the DS3L or whichever board fits your needs best.
 
If your PSU is Antec True Power Trio 550W (model TP3 550) - it is DOA. Test the system with a different PSU.

Same thing happened to me just a week ago.
 
Ended up going with the DS3P, I'll post reports when it arrives (most likely the 26th).

@vsrdan: It is, but all voltages appear to be perfect and it is supplying the proper amount of power to the GPU when everything is booting up (no annoying screech) and the IP35 showed the Power Good LED... I'll be sure to investigate further though.
 
vsrdan said:
If your PSU is Antec True Power Trio 550W (model TP3 550) - it is DOA. Test the system with a different PSU.

Same thing happened to me just a week ago.
Click to expand...

Hehe... I'd bet that not every TP3 550 was DOA. :p Did you test the voltages on your unit?
 
GA-P35-DS3P Rev 2 arrived today...

Plugged everything in, turned it on, works perfectly.

Last time I buy from Abit -_-
 
Gillette said:
GA-P35-DS3P Rev 2 arrived today...

Plugged everything in, turned it on, works perfectly.

Last time I buy from Abit -_-
Click to expand...

meh, a unit snuck by quality control, happens to the best mobo manufacturers. Wouldn't boycott abit because of that.
 
Normally I'd agree with you but this is the second faulty board I've received from them (only ever ordered two) so I just haven't been very impressed.

Oh well, everything is working now, Christmas is saved! :p

Thanks for the help guys.

In other news: stable at 3.0Ghz at stock voltage! From some reviews I've read this CPU looks like it'll hit 3.3+Ghz on stock voltage :O:O

Update: Currently stable at 3.4ghz - stock voltage.
Update: Stable at 3.5ghz - stock voltage. Leaving it there for now :)

I'm doing basic testing with 1 instance of SuperPi doing 8M test and 1 instance of Prime95 (doing 7 loops) I'll do more extensive stability testing over night :)
 
Stepped out to a Christmas dinner as soon as I posted that! I'm letting Prime95 run some torture tests now and I'll post up screenshots after!

I'll do what I can to get some pictures of the build tomorrow as I don't have a camera handy at the moment.
 
OC.jpg


That's Prime95 completing 24 loops, CPU-Z with CPU info, and CoreTemp showing temps.

Looks like a ton of VDroop, but it's still stable so who cares :p

HAH! Wouldn't you know it the system BSODd within 5 minutes of posting that image - dropped the FSB down to 435 (3480Mhz vs 3520Mhz) for now.

Another awful example of performance: 3DMark06 @ 12500
 
Hmm, I seem to be having some issues.

After lowering my overclock to 435 I let Prime95 run for about an hour or so and the system was rock solid so I left it on (idle) overnight... Came back this morning with the PC still running and it was completely unresponsive.

I went into the BIOS, lowered the OC to 430, booted back into Windows and was getting bizarre graphical errors - windows loading inside each other, cursor not updating, start menu staying stuck open.

I can't see how I'd have done any permanent damage to anything as NOTHING in this system has been overvolted and it's in quite a cool room (ambient @ ~55F).

I've got it running at stock speeds all around right now while I head out for breakfast. I'll leave Prime95 running and see what happens!

Update: Stable for 1 hour in P95 @ stock speeds... Hmmm. Maybe the RAM couldn't take the OC?

Update: Prime stable for 1h15 @ 3.2ghz
 
Sometimes systems can be unstable if there isn't enough CPU voltage. So raise the voltage a little bit at a time till you're finally stable at 440FSB.

This thread might be of some help to you:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1169366

I would use Orthos if I were you to fully stress my system.
 
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