New Build - Need Advice Please!

G

Gillette

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
1,317
I'm looking at doing a new build around Christmas time - specs are as follows:

E6750 (2.66Ghz C2D) CPU
ASUS P5N-E SLI Motherboard
XFX 8800GT 512MB
Antec True Power 550W PSU (already ordered)
WD 250GB SATA HD
Antec P182 case

I'm getting the RAM for the build from a friend of mine, it'll be 2GB of (what I believe is) OCZ PC-9000.

I'm on a budget of about $900 US at the absolute MOST. What I'm looking at right now will run me about $850 so I'd like to not push it much further.

I hear the E6750 is an insane overclocker so any recommendations for good CPU coolers are appreciated. I've usually stuck with Zalman (using a CNPS-7000Cu on my current build).

Any advice is appreciated!
 
Quad core to begin with.. No reason not to do it.

Also in the next month prices of alot of things will change.
 
hell rell said:
Quad core to begin with.. No reason not to do it.

Also in the next month prices of alot of things will change.
Click to expand...

there are a couple reasons, you should really put more research into such statements before you make them.

As for the best CPU cooler, yeah the CNPS-7000Cu (which is the big 9cm flower one right?) is very nice and is, imho, very very cool. Also cools surrounding components such as cpu voltage regulation and NB excellently, but I think it could be outperformed by the dirt cheap Arctic cooling Freezer 7 pro. Anyways I would do some overclocking and try to find out if heat is really that bad an enemy of yours, before you buy more after market cooling.

now aside from that I half suggest what you do is actually go with an X38 or P35 board and an HD 3870 or 3850. Save yourself a couple bucks, get nearly identical performance, as well as a generally more cooperative (heat, power, over clock) chip set. And if I was in that situation I would be going after a 2nd 3870/50 on ebay in a few months.

Its only a half suggestion because the 8800GT is more powerful then the HD 3870, and, for a gaming rig, the general rule of thumb is 2:1 or even 3:1 of GPU budget:CPU budget. But seing as how your already on the top end of GPU budgets.... I dunno, definitely something to look into.
 
Buy the god damm quad core. you have almost 30 fulls days anyway. Prices will change by then.
 
It won't change that much. Besides his budget doesn't allow for it.

Anyway, OP, ditch the SLI mobo. You only need SLI If you're gaming at a resolution of 1920x1200 or more. Pick up a nice and stable P35 mobo instead especially since you're planning on overclocking. The P35 chipset has proven to be an excellent overclocker.

Here are some mobo recommendations:
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Intel P35 Motherboard - $86
Abit IP35-E Intel P35 Motherboard - $90
MSI P6N SLI-FI nForce 650i SLI Motherboard - $109
Abit IP35 Intel P35 Motherboard - $120
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R Intel P35 Motherboard - $130
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P Intel P35 Motherboard - $145
Abit IP35 Pro Intel P35 Motherboard - $168
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS4 Intel P35 Motherboard - $175

Just to help you out: If you don't need RAID, more than 4 SATA ports or legacy ports, then the IP35-E is a good choice. If you need legacy ports, than the DS3L. If you need firewire and RAID, than the IP35. If you don't need firewire but want 8 SATA ports, RAID, and legacy ports, than the DS3R is a good choice. If you want a mobo with high overclocks, check out the IP35 Pro

As for coolers I recommend any of these HSF:
Scythe SCNJ-1100P Ninja HSF - $36
Tuniq Tower 120 HSF - $45
Thermalright Ultima-90 HSF - $46 & Panaflo FBA09A12M 92mm Fan - $3
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme HSF - $57 & Scythe S-Flex SFF21E 120MM Case Fan - $14
 
I agree with Danny.

If you want to save some money on the case and don't mind an all-black case instead, get the P180B from Fry's for $100 + shipping.
 
The plan is to toss in a second card down the road as I'm running a 24" widescreen (1920x1200) atm.

Also, I think I'm going to stick with the P182. I recently did a build for a friend using that case and it was an absolute pleasure to work with... very unlike my current case. Worth the extra $30! I'll also be picking that up locally as opposed to ordering it due to size/etc...

Thanks very much for the advice so far!
 
The only reason to go with the P182 over the P180 is because of the color, lol. Both cases are the same inside, assuming you get an updated P180. The Fry's deal has a $50MIR, btw, but shipping kinda kills it. With the volume Antec has been pushing, I'm pretty (99%) sure all the old P180 stock is gone by now. The P180B I got for $40AR was the updated version, back in june/july.
 
Gillette said:
The plan is to toss in a second card down the road as I'm running a 24" widescreen (1920x1200) atm.
Click to expand...

One of the great caveats of SLI. In the words of Markyip1:
Markyip1 said:
SLI is a terrible idea as an upgrade path, as a by the time you're ready to buy that second card, a newer, better card will be out that offers considerable more performance than two older cards in tandem for a similar (or sometimes cheaper) price. SLI is only needed if you want to game at 1920x1200 or above at max settings on most current games, and if your prepared to buy two cards today. Otherwise, a single card solution is better. Keep in mind that a single card solution runs cooler, is simpler to maintain, and gives you more motherboard choices.
Click to expand...
 
Down the road, in this case, is a matter of a few months.

Regardless, I'd like SLI on the board should I come across the money to toss in two high-end cards. I'll definitely look over the P35s though.
 
Thank you Danny ;)

Gillette,

SLI will still be a poor decision even if you plan to get the second card a couple of months from now. All sources indicate that nVidia will have a new component out before Q2 2008 that will significantly outperform a single GTX or Ultra (and probably GTX / Ultra SLI as well.) Given nVidia's recent launch history with the 8800 GT, we might even see that this new super card is cheaper than a GTX is currently.

Based on what a single high-end current gen card can do, one can reasonable expect that this next-gen card will handle 1920x1200 with all settings maxed in all current games (with the possible exception of Crysis, considering that GTX / Ultra SLI can't handle it either.) Going with a single card not only provides you with a cooler running, easier to manage system, it provides for more motherboard options now and better upgradability in the future. I'm not even going to get into the whole Penryn / nFroce fiasco.

Mark.
 
Alright - you've got my sold.

Which board (P35 chipset I guess) is the best for sub $130 out there? I'll pick it up.
 
Well it depends on your needs whether or not the mobo is the "best"

Here are a few recommendations:
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Intel P35 Motherboard - $86
Abit IP35-E Intel P35 Motherboard - $90
Abit IP35 Intel P35 Motherboard - $120
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R Intel P35 Motherboard - $130

Just to help you out: If you don't need RAID, more than 4 SATA ports or legacy ports, then the IP35-E is a good choice. If you need legacy ports, than the DS3L. If you need firewire and RAID, than the IP35. If you don't need firewire but want 8 SATA ports, RAID, and legacy ports, than the DS3R is a good choice.
 
Danny Bui said:
Well it depends on your needs whether or not the mobo is the "best"

Here are a few recommendations:
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Intel P35 Motherboard - $86
Abit IP35-E Intel P35 Motherboard - $90
Abit IP35 Intel P35 Motherboard - $120
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R Intel P35 Motherboard - $130

Just to help you out: If you don't need RAID, more than 4 SATA ports or legacy ports, then the IP35-E is a good choice. If you need legacy ports, than the DS3L. If you need firewire and RAID, than the IP35. If you don't need firewire but want 8 SATA ports, RAID, and legacy ports, than the DS3R is a good choice.
Click to expand...

I have the IP35 Pro on my build, it is a great board, no problems so far.
 
I think I'll be going with the IP35 in my build - I still need Firewire for my iPod!

Thanks for the advice, anything else you think could use improvement?
 
Gillette said:
I think I'll be going with the IP35 in my build - I still need Firewire for my iPod!
Click to expand...

I thought iPods have USB? In any case, the IP35 is a great board. My only gripe with it is its BIOS not being able to save profiles (helps when OC'ing).
 
You must have a pretty old iPod to need firewire. I think starting with the second or third version, iPods could use both Firewire and USB connections.

Mark.
 
1st Gen 5GB :D

Still going strong, all I've had to do was replace the battery about three years ago.
 
My 3rd Gen didn't last much over a year due to persistent battery issues. My current 5 gen, on the other hand, is as good today as it was when I bought it two years ago.

Mark.
 
1st gen nano still goin strong and were comin up on year 4.

anyways, +1 for P35. 680i has become somewhat of a let down.
 
I'm looking at the following for the final build:

E6750 (2.66Ghz C2D) CPU
Abit IP35 Motherboard
XFX 8800GT 512MB
Antec True Power 550W PSU
WD 250GB SATA HD

I'm having some second thoughts about the P180 case - It's a fantastic piece of work but I think I may opt for something cheaper. My only requirements are good airflow (going to OC this system as best I can) and good clearance for HDs! With my current case I can't fit HDs in the top 2-3 mounts because they're hit the back of my (very short) X800XT, I can't imagine it with a longer card!
 
Hmm... I just skimmed through a few reviews and it doesn't look like something I'd buy.

1) Minimal wire management - I'm pretty anal about wiring. Something with more room behind the mobo tray would be ideal.
2) Looks tacky (in my opinion)

I appreciate the suggestion, but I don't think it's for me.

Any other ideas?
 
Cases are personal preference, and the one that fits your "likes" is the P180. If you want all the nice features it provides with regards to wire management, pony up the cash.

I know of no knockoff yet, for the P180... sorry. If you don't want to pony up the cash, then just mod a cheaper alternative to fit your needs.
 
Final Build

E6750 (2.66Ghz C2D) CPU
2x 1GB OCZ Gold PC2-6400
Abit IP35-E
PNY 8800GT 512MB
Antec True Power 550W PSU
WD 250GB SATA HD
Coolermaster CM 690

Total Build Price: $800 :)

Thanks very much for all of the suggestions and help!
 
You do know that the IP35-E doesn't have a Firewire port for your iPod right?
 
Yes sir.

I'll still have my old computer and my media PC around. Given the relatively small size of the HD I'm tossing in this computer (for budget reasons at the moment) it's probably more efficient to just do updates off of my other PCs anyway :)
 
Gillette said:
I'm looking at the following for the final build:

E6750 (2.66Ghz C2D) CPU
Abit IP35 Motherboard
XFX 8800GT 512MB
Antec True Power 550W PSU
WD 250GB SATA HD

I'm having some second thoughts about the P180 case - It's a fantastic piece of work but I think I may opt for something cheaper. My only requirements are good airflow (going to OC this system as best I can) and good clearance for HDs! With my current case I can't fit HDs in the top 2-3 mounts because they're hit the back of my (very short) X800XT, I can't imagine it with a longer card!
Click to expand...

don't go with the P180/P182. The rig in sig is runnin in one, and while alot seems like a good idea it wasn't too well thought out (my biggest beef is with the lower HDD mounting cage, so big infact I'm gonna design a less R-tarded one myself but it'l only hold 3 drives).

the Antec 900 would be your best bet. It pulls heat out of the CPU area so fast. It really does pump an amazing amount of air.
 
MrWizard6600 said:
don't go with the P180/P182. The rig in sig is runnin in one, and while alot seems like a good idea it wasn't too well thought out (my biggest beef is with the lower HDD mounting cage, so big infact I'm gonna design a less R-tarded one myself but it'l only hold 3 drives).

the Antec 900 would be your best bet. It pulls heat out of the CPU area so fast. It really does pump an amazing amount of air.
Click to expand...

Well he isn't going with the P180 now. If you checked his second to last post here, he's switching to the CM690, a much better case than the Antec 900 IMO.
 
Ok, I've got all of the parts and need some help!

Everything is all hooked up - system will not POST! I've got no PC speaker so I'm not hearing anything there but there's no video output and no blinking lights past the LEDs on the mobo that denote power good and system on...

Ideas?

I've cleared the CMOS, swapped out RAM sticks, reseated video card, etc...

All the fans rev up and continue to run but nothing else :S

More information is posted by me @ http://forum.uabit.com/showthread.php?p=903018#post903018
 
Are all the power connectors connected to the board?

Does the 5VSB LED light up with the PSU connected and powered on?

Does the VCC LED light up with the system powered on?

Do you have another PSU you could try it with?

Get a system speaker/buzzer. They're cheap. If you have an old system layin around, pull the buzzer out of there and plug it in. You need to hear the diagnostic beeps.

/*------------- <cut n paste> -------------*/
If you have both the 20/24 pin main ATX connector plugged in, AND the 4-Pin (or 8-pin) ATX12V P4 CPU connector plugged in, then the board should boot fine (unless it requires more power connectors from the PSU). You could try clearing the CMOS.

You could test the PSU. Jump start it (on the main atx connector, short the green wire with any black wire, using a paperclip), and see if it stays on. If not, then its probably a faulty PSU. If it works then you can proceed with the suggestions below. ***NOTE: The paperclip trick is a simple test for those that do not have PSU testers, multimeters, nor a spare PSU to test with. It is not a 100% conclusive test of the PSU.

Setup everything outside of the case, with the mobo on top of its cardboard box. Plug in only the essentials:
- PSU (namely: main 20/24-pin ATX connector and 4-pin ATX12V P4 CPU Connector)
- CPU w/ HSF
- Single stick of ram
- Videocard if there is no onboard video
- Monitor
- Keyboard
- System speaker/buzzer

* Use a screwdriver if your board doesnt have an onboard power switch. Jump the two power switch leads to turn the power on.

If it won't post, try different RAM slots. If it still won't post, pull out the ram (so no ram in the system) and listen for error beeps. If none, pull the vidcard and listen for error beeps. If none, re-seat the CPU/HSF and try again. Report back with results if you're still having issues.
/*------------- </cut n paste> -------------*/
 
enginurd said:
Are all the power connectors connected to the board?

Does the 5VSB LED light up with the PSU connected and powered on?

Does the VCC LED light up with the system powered on?

Do you have another PSU you could try it with?

Get a system speaker/buzzer. They're cheap. If you have an old system layin around, pull the buzzer out of there and plug it in. You need to hear the diagnostic beeps.
Click to expand...


1) yes
2) yes
3) yes
4) no

As for the speaker - I'd love to, except the nearest place I could buy one is about a 3 hour round trip. Yay for staying at my parents place over christmas -_-

I'm almost positive the problem is that the RAM requires 2V to be able to work properly (even to POST) and the board default is 1.8V - a bit of a catch 22 since I need to be able to POST to get into the BIOS to change the VDIMM.

Anyway, I'll dig around and see if there's a pc speaker lying around, but I doubt it, and as said above I'm pretty sure that's the problem. I've posted over on UABIT and OCZ forums and most info points to the RAM atm.
 
So you already tried it with a single stick of RAM? Did you try different slots?
 
Yes, tried with each stick individually in each different slot.

I grabbed a PC Speaker while I was out today... No beep codes at all.

Ideas? I've got an RMA issued for the RAM from OCZ - but I've got a feeling the problem may be elsewhere considering the lack of beeps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top