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NCASE M1 v2 Build Thread

I wish I'd waited for the reference 970 to be out. The G1 gaming just dumps too much heat in the case. The G1 gets noticeably loud when pushed to its limit and is just roasting the case.

I have two regular 120mm fans down there blowing on the G1, but due to the limited clearance with the graphic card, I wonder if they are up to the task. Are Noctua static pressure fans worth it over vanilla fans?
 
Hello everybody, I'm looking for a little input to finish up my build . Currently I have
  • Ncase M1 V2
  • Gigabyte GA Z87-N wifi mobo
  • i5 4670k
  • msi 780ti
  • silverstone 450w sfx fully modular
  • 8gb gskill sniper ram
  • 840 evo 120gb
  • 3tb Toshiba* hdd

I need to decide the best way to cool this bad boy. I was looking at the nhl9i paired with 3 120mm fans; two on bottom pulling in and one on side pushing out. Seeing as the gpu has 3 blowers on it I feel like I can get away with this setup. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm typing this from my tablet so I apologize for the brevity.

*couldn't remember off the top of my head what brand
 
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I never knew SanDisk sold HDD's :confused:

According to the Ncase M1 Google Doc most people with a motherboard resembling yours, resorted to air-cooling because of the motherboard's undesireable placement of the CPU socket near the GPU. One person mentioned the NH-L9i is not enough to cool his (overclocked) i5-4670K, one person uses a Thermalright AXP-200, another person uses a Cooler Master GeminII S524. Also some people using other Noctua coolers but with sidenotes, I'm not sure what would fit perfectly, but I'd personally go with the Cooler Master as it seems perfect for your situation in using the available space most efficiently.

Blower-fans are referred to as these things:

NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-Titan-Black-Cooler-635x499.jpg

It's called a radial or centrifugal fan: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_fan

Generally you don't need extra fans on the bottom if you have a GPU with a blower-fan, because it can take air easily from below the case through the vents. If you have an open-cooler design with multiple fans, you could use fans or make some ducting, because those cards leak a lot of heat and end up recycling it.
 
Phuncz said:
I never knew SanDisk sold HDD's :confused:
Click to expand...

Yeah my bad, couldn't remember what brand it was off the top of my head. Most of these parts are recycled from a previous build.

Phuncz said:
Blower-fans are referred to as these things:
Click to expand...
Oh I always thought it just meant aftermarket cards with a few fans on em :eek: Thanks for the knowledge

Now, according to that webpage most people with my mobo are using watercooling setups, but I'd like to stay away from that if I could. I'm leaning toward the Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B only because on the tests I've read It has performed better than the S524.
I'm more worried about keeping the 780ti cool seeing as I haven't overclocked the cpu yet. Thats another reason I'm leaning towards air cooling. I want stellar airflow in the case to keep that sucker at the bottom nice and cool. Am I misguided in this way of thinking?
 
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It's best to see the GPU as it's own compartment in the Ncase M1. Since it's almost as wide and as long as the case itself, it seperates the case into two compartments. That's why reference cooler (blower-fan) graphics cards ar generally recommended here: they take in fresh air from the bottom vents and exhaust it out the back.

When you already have a non-reference graphics card, it complicates things because these exhaust their hot air out of all sides of the cooler. This causes (part of) the heat to be trapped below the GPU and be recycled, also some heat might end up at your HDD and CPU. Generally you get the best results with adding ducts for the GPU's fans (reference and non-reference), this eliminates the recycling of hot exhausted air almost completely.

To help exhaust the hot air, you best use some exhaust fans on the top part of the case (everything above the GPU). I recommend having the PSU's fan mounted internally and having a 92mm fan on the back of the case. If you are using a AIO cooler, it sometimes might be a good solution to reverse the fans and let them exhaust. But this doesn't work well with CPU heatsinks usually.

In the end it all depends on a lot of factors and I recommend people to try different configurations with something like Heaven Benchmark, which I consider a realistic use case simulation when gaming is your highest load.
 
Phuncz said:
It's best to see the GPU as it's own compartment in the Ncase M1. Since it's almost as wide and as long as the case itself, it seperates the case into two compartments. That's why reference cooler (blower-fan) graphics cards ar generally recommended here: they take in fresh air from the bottom vents and exhaust it out the back.

When you already have a non-reference graphics card, it complicates things because these exhaust their hot air out of all sides of the cooler. This causes (part of) the heat to be trapped below the GPU and be recycled, also some heat might end up at your HDD and CPU. Generally you get the best results with adding ducts for the GPU's fans (reference and non-reference), this eliminates the recycling of hot exhausted air almost completely.

To help exhaust the hot air, you best use some exhaust fans on the top part of the case (everything above the GPU). I recommend having the PSU's fan mounted internally and having a 92mm fan on the back of the case. If you are using a AIO cooler, it sometimes might be a good solution to reverse the fans and let them exhaust. But this doesn't work well with CPU heatsinks usually.

In the end it all depends on a lot of factors and I recommend people to try different configurations with something like Heaven Benchmark, which I consider a realistic use case simulation when gaming is your highest load.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice. Man, this makes me just wanna put a whole custom loop for everything so I don't have to worry about my temps. I don't know much of the know how to do that however. Off to search for an example build to follow.

Edit: Is there a general consensus for the most efficient way to liquid cool both cpu and gpu? Does a full h220 loop fit in the case? Or are custom loops the only route? I feel like it will be tougher for me because I don't have a reference card.
 
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mistdrumman said:
Thank you for the advice. Man, this makes me just wanna put a whole custom loop for everything so I don't have to worry about my temps. I don't know much of the know how to do that however. Off to search for an example build to follow.

Edit: Is there a general consensus for the most efficient way to liquid cool both cpu and gpu? Does a full h220 loop fit in the case? Or are custom loops the only route? I feel like it will be tougher for me because I don't have a reference card.
Click to expand...

There's always an opinion on the "most efficient" way, and if you really want control over the cooling you'll want to do a custom loop - they aren't that terribly complex, think of it in pieces first, of what you'll need and what components can take care of the following:
  • pump
  • reservoir
  • CPU block
  • GPU block
  • radiator
  • fans
  • tubing/connectors

A lot of people (don't forget to check the Google docs spreadsheet in addition to forum searching) have opted for the H220 (please please please not the H220-X) as it takes care of quite a lot: pump, reservoir, CPU block, (some) tubing, radiator, fans. In fact that's how it is with most AIO's. If you want to go more custom, just consider the space inside - another option is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II (pump, CPU block). Popular reservoir choices are the FrozenQ/Adamantium custom Ncase M1 reservoir (possible long production time), while others have been able to hang a cylinder off the rear. There's someone on the forum that's been able to use an EK 5.25" bay reservoir/pump combo.

Okay whew that was a lot to digest, and we haven't even gotten to the other big choices, radiator, fans, and tubing. The GPU block is really dictated by your card, compatibility is the one thing you should strive for; block vs block on the same card is nominal (all things considered).

Radiators are also a little predetermined:
https://www.ncases.com/#Compatibility said:
Recommended maximum thickness of radiator+fans: 60mm (85mm total available between side bracket and SFX bracket)
Click to expand...

There's not that much room for a radiator and a set of fans; go for either a combo considered a "slim" radiator like an Alphacool ST-30 (30mm thick) with 25mm thick fans (normal width for 120mm) or a thicker radiator like an EK Coolstream/PE with thinner fans (i.e. the 15mm thin Prolimatech's). There's a lot to choose if you shop for thickness first, and given the limited space you have between the radiator and the PSU/motherboard, you will be best served considering shorter 90 degree connectors as well. Push/pull setups are possible but complex with marginal gains.

A word about fans: I think the consensus is to choose static pressure over pure airflow.

And tubing/connectors: do whatever is in your budget because for a loop this small, tubing diameter is not going to be a limiting factor.

It is definitely a lot of individual components to consider, but what I would do is begin by creating a few combinations of parts and seeing what drops out - if you go for an H220, all you've got left is some tubing, a few connectors, and a GPU block. If you decide on an Apogee Drive II, then it removes the need to consider a pump. And so on. Make a few "prototypes" and don't be afraid to go back and re-think a certain component.

Okay enough rambling from me. :p
 
ghostwich said:
And tubing/connectors: do whatever is in your budget because for a loop this small, tubing diameter is not going to be a limiting factor.

It is definitely a lot of individual components to consider, but what I would do is begin by creating a few combinations of parts and seeing what drops out - if you go for an H220, all you've got left is some tubing, a few connectors, and a GPU block. If you decide on an Apogee Drive II, then it removes the need to consider a pump. And so on. Make a few "prototypes" and don't be afraid to go back and re-think a certain component.

Okay enough rambling from me. :p
Click to expand...

First of all thank you for your response! It was exactly what I needed. Now I have more questions :D So I like the ease of the H220 but it has pretty bad reviews on amazon. Are they generally pretty reliable? Also according to the ncase spreadsheet it says it has to be mounted vertically for my Gigabyte Z87N Wifi mobo :(
Alread found this GPU block: EK-FC780 ti
 
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Sorry for potato quality, went with a simple build took a little inspiration from malik's build with the choice of cooler but NOTE I don't know if/why it worked for malik but a single fan on the outside of the phantek's cooler did not fit for me.

Had a lot of trouble that extending from the fan not working on the outside but overall I'm happy with the build and I have learnt never to buy corsair fans due to bad design choices with the rubber mounting (I live outside any first world country so RMAing is troublesome). I was able to use some hard drive rubber mounts to attach the fan to the heat sink and replace the broken ones.

Overall it's a little noisy(might look to get noctuas in the future) but am overall happy for now with the build, lots of future potential.

ckC9Zuf.jpg

ZFiCNKd.jpg

s4zwMf7.jpg


ASUS PA248Q
Intel Core i5-4690K
Asus Z97I-PLUS Motherboard (Drivers for broadcom wifi PCI-E module SUCK ASS replacing with another)
EVGA GeForce GTX760
Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB (Nice black ram)
Silverstone Tek 450-Watts SFX (Short cable kit)
Phanteks PH-TC14CS_BK
Samsung 840 Evo
 
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Hi all,

Just completed building my Ncase V2 setup as follows, and needed some input regarding load temps:

Maximus VII Impact
i7 4790K (stock clock)
C12P-SE14 (using the low noise adaptor - which runs @ 900rpm) - heatpipes are toward the RAM
Silverstone 600W SFX
2x4GB DDR3 1600
No video card at the moment
Using Noctua's thermal paste
No other fans are installed

The average idle temp for all cores is about 37°C (32°C min), but when i ran Prime95's blend test temps hit 99°C in exactly 5 mins.

Could anyone guide me on what could be potential issues?
 
The Low Noise adaptor is a static fan rate ? So it never goes over 900rpm ? It seems that might be the problem. My Core i5-4670K (stock clocks) also idles at 35-38°C on watercooling (with idle GPU in the loop) so it's probably not the heatsink sitting incorrectly, but still possible.

But connect the fan without an adapter straight to the CPU_FAN header, which is PWM, and adjust it's fan speed curve from within the BIOS.
 
haz8 said:
Hi all,

Just completed building my Ncase V2 setup as follows, and needed some input regarding load temps:

Maximus VII Impact
i7 4790K (stock clock)
C12P-SE14 (using the low noise adaptor - which runs @ 900rpm) - heatpipes are toward the RAM
Silverstone 600W SFX
2x4GB DDR3 1600
No video card at the moment
Using Noctua's thermal paste
No other fans are installed

The average idle temp for all cores is about 37°C (32°C min), but when i ran Prime95's blend test temps hit 99°C in exactly 5 mins.

Could anyone guide me on what could be potential issues?
Click to expand...

The C12 on my stock 4790k keeps the idle temps below 40C and in the 70s during Prime95's blended test (the small-FFT test will eventually hit throttling). I'm using Noctua's A15 PWM fan right now, but had similar results using an F12 PWM and the stock non-PWM P14 (using Arctic MX4 instead of Noctua paste, but that shouldn't matter much).

As Phuncz suggested, connect the P14 fan to the Impact's CPU header, and be sure to switch the fan control from PWM-mode to DC-mode. I would also try removing the low-noise adapter for now. If temps are still too high under load, then try reseating the cooler (be sure to clean off old paste and use new.. just a tiny pea-sized drop in the center is more than enough).

Once you get your temps in check, I'd highly recommend upgrading the Noctua P14 fan to their A15 PWM fan, which should have less noise and better cooling (versus the P14 w/LNA in DC-mode).
 
AFD said:
The C12 on my stock 4790k keeps the idle temps below 40C and in the 70s during Prime95's blended test (the small-FFT test will eventually hit throttling). I'm using Noctua's A15 PWM fan right now, but had similar results using an F12 PWM and the stock non-PWM P14 (using Arctic MX4 instead of Noctua paste, but that shouldn't matter much).

As Phuncz suggested, connect the P14 fan to the Impact's CPU header, and be sure to switch the fan control from PWM-mode to DC-mode. I would also try removing the low-noise adapter for now. If temps are still too high under load, then try reseating the cooler (be sure to clean off old paste and use new.. just a tiny pea-sized drop in the center is more than enough).

Once you get your temps in check, I'd highly recommend upgrading the Noctua P14 fan to their A15 PWM fan, which should have less noise and better cooling (versus the P14 w/LNA in DC-mode).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response buddy. I'm going to reapply the thermal paste now, i think i may have applied a bit too much. (noctua's will have to do :( - I can't find my arctic silver one)

The fan that comes with the C12P SE14 is an NF-P14 (3 pins) - so there isn't PWM for that, right? I'm going to check in BIOS if i can put it on DC mode.

Should i run a CPU stress test using some other software instead of Prime 95?

Will report back soon

Update (1): I reapplied the thermal paste, and the gains were only about 1°C. I've put the fan on DC mode, threw in my GTX 570, ran an older version of Prime 95 (v 26.6). 5mins into the blend test, the max CPU temp is @ 83°C. Currently have the LNA in use :).
 
Last edited:
haz8 said:
Thanks for the response buddy. I'm going to reapply the thermal paste now, i think i may have applied a bit too much. (noctua's will have to do :( - I can't find my arctic silver one)

The fan that comes with the C12P SE14 is an NF-P14 (3 pins) - so there isn't PWM for that, right? I'm going to check in BIOS if i can put it on DC mode.

Should i run a CPU stress test using some other software instead of Prime 95?

Will report back soon

Update (1): I reapplied the thermal paste, and the gains were only about 1°C. I've put the fan on DC mode, threw in my GTX 570, ran an older version of Prime 95 (v 26.6). 5mins into the blend test, the max CPU temp is @ 83°C. Currently have the LNA in use :).
Click to expand...

Sounds much better! :)

Yes, the P14 fan included with Noctua C12 S14 is not PWM.. that's why I suggested upgrading it to their A15 PWM fan (should run at very low RPMs during idle in PWM mode, and will be much quieter than the P14 in DC-mode).

Prime95 usually isn't recommended for Haswell chips, and running older versions is supposedly dangerous. I usually stick with AIDA64's system stability test.
 
Sultar said:
@FlamingKomodo
How are your CPU's temperatures with Phanteks cooler?
Click to expand...

Stock - Only a quick run for now till I play around a bit and think about better cooling.
AIDA froze on my first run (suspect GPU failed) around 10 mins because my fan curves were a little...optimistic.
Adjusted my curves heres a 15 minute run.

2z7nMi3.png
 
AFD said:
Sounds much better! :)

Yes, the P14 fan included with Noctua C12 S14 is not PWM.. that's why I suggested upgrading it to their A15 PWM fan (should run at very low RPMs during idle in PWM mode, and will be much quieter than the P14 in DC-mode).

Prime95 usually isn't recommended for Haswell chips, and running older versions is supposedly dangerous. I usually stick with AIDA64's system stability test.
Click to expand...

I'll look into getting the A15 once the GTX upgrades come out. I might also grab arctic silver paste and reseat it.

I ran Prime 95 v 26.6, and in the 11th hour off blend testing, the temps were: Core 0 - 89°C Core 1 - 92°C Core 2 90°C Core 3 83°C package 92°C. Would adjusting the VCORE (min 1.776 max 1.840) help lower temps?
 
haz8 said:
I ran Prime 95 v 26.6, and in the 11th hour off blend testing, the temps were: Core 0 - 89°C Core 1 - 92°C Core 2 90°C Core 3 83°C package 92°C. Would adjusting the VCORE (min 1.776 max 1.840) help lower temps?
Click to expand...

I don't know shit about overclocking, but both of those VCORE values seem insanely high. At stock, under load, my 4790k jumps to ~1.16 (minimum appears to be ~0.8 and max ~1.2). Not 100% sure, but I would think raising the VCORE would also raise the temperature.

Also, it seems really weird that your Core 3 temp is actually lower than your package temp.

Dunno. Personally, I would ditch the low-noise adapter and see how well that fan works when it's allowed to operate at max RPM, instead of at 75%, if watching temps and stress testing is your thing. Otherwise, with the LNA, your temps are probably fine, and should be much lower during regular work loads and while gaming.
 
You are running Prime95, basically a program that just makes your CPU as hot as possible without a realistic load, with an average vcore of 1.8v on air ? I'm amazed your CPU hasn't liquified yet. You said you are running stock clocks, why put an insanely high voltage on it ?

To quote Anandtech:

Our i7-4790K is actually one of the lower performing CPUs from what I have heard from other reviewers. Using a Corsair H80i (the 120mm double thickness CLC), our CPU hit 4.6 GHz at 1.300 volts, with 86ºC peak temperature under OCCT load, and 4.7 GHz at 1.450 volts with 98ºC peak temperature under OCCT load.

1.450 volts for 4.7 GHz is rather a lot, and under a focused AVX load the system did actually reduce the frequency to 4.5 GHz for split-seconds to remain within thermal tolerances. That jump from 4.6 GHz to 4.7 GHz of 0.150 volts is quite a leap, although we did see this with the normal Haswell CPUs as well.
Click to expand...
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k

If you are not overclocking, set it to AUTO voltage. If you are overclocking, you are doing it wrong and you need to read up before you fry your CPU.
 
Phuncz said:
You are running Prime95, basically a program that just makes your CPU as hot as possible without a realistic load, with an average vcore of 1.8v on air ? I'm amazed your CPU hasn't liquified yet. You said you are running stock clocks, why put an insanely high voltage on it ?

To quote Anandtech:


http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k

If you are not overclocking, set it to AUTO voltage. If you are overclocking, you are doing it wrong and you need to read up before you fry your CPU.
Click to expand...

Heres the screenshot of HW Monitor. I think i mixed the values up. Does that look alright, even though the computer's running @ idle?

http://imgur.com/msALBk6
 
Ah ok, it shows 1.2v at the VID under the CPU, the motherboard's sensor seems to be off.

But like AFD said:
0. turn the PC off
1. remove the Low Noise Adapter cable
2. plug the fan directly in the CPU_FAN header
3. set the CPU_FAN header to "DC mode" in the BIOS
4. set it to "silent" or "quiet"
5. optionally you can make your own fan profile if you understand what needs to happen when

And I seriously advise against using Prime95 for testing temps as this is not a normal way to measure CPU max temps. It just shows what an extremely unrealistic load would generate, but no game or common consumer application will ever stress it in that way. Run something like Handbrake (video conversion), PCMark (benchmark) or compress a movie using a multithreaded compression application like 7zip.
 
Hi guys, long time lurker and just ordered a M1 (V2). I'm basically going to try and transplant the system in my signature into the M1 except I'll be going with an Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe and Corsair H100i for the cooling, will that work?

I have 2 main/big concerns, the PSU and my GPU. The PSU, will a 500W SFX handle a 780 GTX? My 780 GTX is non-reference design (i.e. non-blower), is it ok to install that into this case?

Also, is it hard to install a H100i into the M1?
 
pookguy88 said:
The PSU, will a 500W SFX handle a 780 GTX?
Click to expand...

In practice, yes.. on paper, maybe.

For example, EVGA's reference 780 specs call for 600W and 42A on the +12V rail. The upcoming Silverstone SX500-LG is 500W with only 40A. There have been others here running the 780 (and 780Ti & 290x) off their 450W w/37A PSU just fine (even though it only officially supports up to the 770 & 270x) per Silverstone.

Don't think you'll have a problem, and hopefully Silverstone will update their GPU support list for the SX500-LG soon..

http://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/PSU/GPU-supportlist.pdf
 
full potatocam album
http://imgur.com/a/nOWat

i7 4770k @ 4.2ghz
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4g @ 1.5ghz
Asus Impact VI Z87
16GB Crucial Ballistix VLP

Silverstone SX600-G 600w SFX PSU

256GB Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe
2TB Samsung Spinpoint M9

EK Supremacy Evo CPU waterblock
EK FC970 GTX TF5 GPU waterblock
Swiftech MCP35x PWM pump
Alphacool Laing DDC/MCP35x Acrylic Pump Top
Alphacool Nexxos ST30 240mm radiator
FrozenQ/Adamantium Reservoir
Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-14 Fan x2

uwuAJKMl.jpg

fG15Sc7l.jpg

FdBMCXPl.jpg


/thread necro
 
Is a small form factor design practical for gaming possibly including SLI? How could it possibly dissipate heat efficiently? I love the idea of the liquid cooling aspect. Where to begin?
 
Siba said:
Swiftech MCP35x PWM pump
Alphacool Laing DDC/MCP35x Acrylic Pump Top
Click to expand...

Were you able to get the MCP35x isolated from the case enough to get rid of the noise?

I have a DCP2.2 in the same spot in my case and it buzzes terribly even at low RPM.
 
bmyton said:
Were you able to get the MCP35x isolated from the case enough to get rid of the noise?

I have a DCP2.2 in the same spot in my case and it buzzes terribly even at low RPM.
Click to expand...

I am using a small thermal pad in between the pump and the case, it isolates it to a moderate level.

I have also DIYed an aluminum heatsink to the bottom of the case, using the mounting screws from the MCP35x to sandwich the pump and heatsink together. Maybe I'm a bit paranoid from previous experience and also reports around the web that the MCP35x can run pretty warm. This is probably the source of the remainder of the noise that could be reduced by isolation, as the screw and heatsink are metal to metal contact with the case.
 
Siba said:
I am using a small thermal pad in between the pump and the case, it isolates it to a moderate level.

I have also DIYed an aluminum heatsink to the bottom of the case, using the mounting screws from the MCP35x to sandwich the pump and heatsink together. Maybe I'm a bit paranoid from previous experience and also reports around the web that the MCP35x can run pretty warm. This is probably the source of the remainder of the noise that could be reduced by isolation, as the screw and heatsink are metal to metal contact with the case.
Click to expand...

Understood. I was really hoping that they would introduce a MCP50x top with inlets and outlets on the side so that I could use it instead of the 30. I should probably just look at installing an external pump and radiator for my desk to get that noise down, and then let the small internal pump stop spinning unless I'm traveling.
 
I've seen some pics with ATX PSUs in the NCase M1. Are all of these non-modular that are shorter than 140mm as per the official specs on the website?

I have a Seasonic X460FL that is modular and 160mm long. Would this fit with an OCUK GTX970 (card with a reference-style blower cooler)?
 
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CyberShot said:
I installed today on my Ncase v2 this PCI-E extender:
ARC1-PELX16A1-C11V3 (11cm ribbon) HD7950,R9 290X 1 slot PCI-E x16 riser card
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARC1-PELX16...90X-1-slot-PCI-E-x16-riser-card-/271663995770

That PCI-E fits perfectly on Ncase and also works full x16 mode.
Click to expand...

@Cybershot: do you have some comparison information using the videocard directly in the pcie slot versus your current situation with the riser card?

I'm currenly interested in the temperature and noise development of the videocard and i would like to know if your videocard is creating higer/lower temperatures and noise, because i'm suspecting that less air inflow will create more noise from the videocard.

What is the minimum length of the riser card you can use for the Ncase, you think? The manufacturer Ameri-Rack also sells 7cm and 5cm variants.
 
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Darth Punk said:
@Cybershot: do you have some comparison information using the videocard directly in the pcie slot versus your current situation with the riser card?

I'm currenly interested in the temperature and noise development of the videocard and i would like to know if your videocard is creating higer/lower temperatures and noise, because i'm suspecting that less air inflow will create more noise from the videocard.

What is the minimum length of the riser card you can use for the Ncase, you think? The manufacturer Ameri-Rack also sells 7cm and 5cm variants.
Click to expand...

I bought this Silverstone SX500-LG which I tested without PCI-E extender but my card did not fit.

So I have one chinese pci-e extender which I tested but that only gives me pci-e x4.

C95rQq5l.jpg


So I bought this new one. I found one thread that 10cm is minimum so I bought this 11cm version.

Check these posts so you understand why you need 11cm version.
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041353598&postcount=15185
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041359675&postcount=15196

Ebay url: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARC1-PELX16...90X-1-slot-PCI-E-x16-riser-card-/271663995770

Now pci-e is x16.

Now I haven't notice anything difference in sound but temps are little bit up. Idle 48c but in game 84c max. Before PCI-E extender I had two fan on bottom to blowing in. That keeped my idle temps like 38c, if I remember correctly.
 
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Anybody have some build pictures with a V3 of this case and an SFX-L pus? I have my case ordered but just trying to finalize my PSU purchase. Hoping to see how much clearance there is with an SFX-L psu.
 
I haven't noticed anything while gaming or running heaven but the person I bought it from said he noticed some whine while folding.
 
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