NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Hey everyone, I'll be buying all my parts within the next two months but I got a question for everyone using the 450W gold PSU from SS. I know that GPUs that need a 8 and a 6-pin (e.g. 770, 780, 780ti, and Titan) works with the PSU, but where do you connect the second 8-pin plug on the PSU?

11-Front.jpg


I only see one 8pin (blue) port to use to connect the GPU.

(sorry for the silly question... first time building and all...) :p
 
commander_ said:
Hey everyone, I'll be buying all my parts within the next two months but I got a question for everyone using the 450W gold PSU from SS. I know that GPUs that need a 8 and a 6-pin (e.g. 770, 780, 780ti, and Titan) works with the PSU, but where do you connect the second 8-pin plug on the PSU?

11-Front.jpg


I only see one 8pin (blue) port to use to connect the GPU.

(sorry for the silly question... first time building and all...) :p
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Yup, you'll be fine. That modular plug carries both the 6 and the 6+2 pin. It splits at the end.
 
Is it safe to assume that if I mount a 3.5" HD on the bottom, I can't put a 120mm fan down there?
 
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Necere said:
Correct. You can still have a 92mm fan though.
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Thanks. My case comes in a few days and I'm trying to nail down what I want to do as far as parts. I guess it's to crammed in there to do push/pull with a slim rad on the sides.
 
Necere said:
Do you think you could take some pics of your cases as you received them, with the side/top panels off? Email them to [email protected] with a note about the parts you're missing.
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My system is already assembled. I used the ATX bracket + the adapter that came with the PSU (SS450).
This way I can only have the intake fan facing the CPU cooler, which isn't ideal.

PS. If somebody want to exchange an SFX bracket for my HDD bracket, I would gladly do so.
 
bbskd87 said:
My system is already assembled. I used the ATX bracket + the adaptor that came with the PSU (SS450).
This way I can only have the intake fan facing the CPU cooler, which isn't ideal.
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Alright, just send an email asking for a replacement then, if you haven't. Very strange they somehow overlooked installing the SFX bracket, I have to say.
 
bbskd87 said:
My system is already assembled. I used the ATX bracket + the adapter that came with the PSU (SS450).
This way I can only have the intake fan facing the CPU cooler, which isn't ideal.

PS. If somebody want to exchange an SFX bracket for my HDD bracket, I would gladly do so.
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I plan on using the SFX PSU with the fan intake facing the outer part of the case.
 
put all my components together is the h220 suppose to be so loud making buzzing noise.

when I pick up the rad i notice the cooling in there moving around... Do i need to fill this up?

while the pump was on I lifted the pump to higher position, i can hear water coming down to the pump? I had a h100 and never had this issue....
 
Balance, you should contact Swiftech directly for support. If there's a problem with your H220 then they will be able to tell you and help you deal with it quickly.

(I had problem once and made a short video so they could see and hear the problem, uploaded to youtube, emailed Swiftech, and next morning I had a reply from Gabe himself and he organised RMA with my local watercooling shop and I had a new pump within 3 days.)
 
balance101 said:
put all my components together is the h220 suppose to be so loud making buzzing noise.

when I pick up the rad i notice the cooling in there moving around... Do i need to fill this up?

while the pump was on I lifted the pump to higher position, i can hear water coming down to the pump? I had a h100 and never had this issue....
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Did you bleed the system? I don't own a H220 rad, but judging by looks, there's a decent chance for air bubbles. I would try to bleed the system by running the pump with the radiator standing straight up ( reservoir pointing up) with one plug left open or pressure relieve valve installed. If the noise doesn't go away, then definitely RMA it.
 
IncubusBob said:
I'm trying to come up with a silent GPU setup for my ncase. The best I have come up with so far is to use a GTX 770, probably the EVGA one with their custom ACX cooler, and remove the fans in favor of two low-rpm 120mm fans mounted on the bottom of the case. Seems like I should be able to get about the same airflow but with less noise. What do you guys think, will this work?
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My asus 670 DCII I have replaced the bottom fans with 2x 120mm GTs and they have the potential to be run quiet. For the same noise, I get cooler temps, or for the same temps, a quieter setup. Note that the asus 670 is one of THE quietest cards around to start with because of a lower TDP and an effective heatsink.

Compared to a Gigabtye card I had, the ASUS card is already significantly quieter.



Just went interstate and back with my case has, which has clocked 6000km of travel in a commercial jet and 3100km in a small car driven across Australia.
 
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GnomeCop said:
has anyone mounted their SSDs like this?
NdYX2Tym.jpg


I've looked at pics of the case and can't picture how/where the mounting points work.

I only plan on having 2 SSDs and one mSATA or NGFF SSD so this placement interests me since it frees up a bit of space in the main chamber.
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I have mounted two SSDs on the front its very easy to do but you will need make your own bracket up using some plastic i do recommend doing this saves a load of space.








On i side not my Res has been sent off also just got my Silverstone SST-PP05-E cables today.
 
TheSkaBoss said:
So I'm thinking about breaking the bank to make this machine unstoppable. Any issues you guys can see with this build?
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/skaboss/saved/3mzt
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Build looks good but your better off with a good air cooler than a H60 like the C14, I used a H60 in my M1 and idle temps where to high around 45c.

MikeTheTiger said:
Anyone have any experience with the Cooler Master Eisberg Solo Waterblock/Pump combo?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ump_RL-EBSL-FLNN-R1.html?tl=c85s1703b26#blank

I like the Apogee Drive II, but not the way the fittings come off of the sides. The pics I've seen of it on the Impact board look like the touch (or come very close to touching) the daughter board.
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I used a H100i and even that was very close to the daughter board, I also looked into that cooler but its build design was what let it down the Cooler Master Eisberg Prestige 240L was only 4 degrees cooler than an H100 not even a H100i so the unit wouldn't be very good for a full loop that's why i got the Apogee Drive II along with every one else.
 
OverRated said:
I used a H100i and even that was very close to the daughter board, I also looked into that cooler but its build design was what let it down the Cooler Master Eisberg Prestige 240L was only 4 degrees cooler than an H100 not even a H100i so the unit wouldn't be very good for a full loop that's why i got the Apogee Drive II along with every one else.
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Do you have the Impact?

Edit: duh...your sig...:p
 
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I do have a question for people using the Apogee Drive II as well on the impact did any one use the washers that come with the impact for the backplate?
 
okwchin said:
My asus 670 DCII I have replaced the bottom fans with 2x 120mm GTs and they have the potential to be run quiet. For the same noise, I get cooler temps, or for the same temps, a quieter setup. Note that the asus 670 is one of THE quietest cards around to start with because of a lower TDP and an effective heatsink.

Compared to a Gigabtye card I had, the ASUS card is already significantly quieter.



Just went interstate and back with my case has, which has clocked 6000km of travel in a commercial jet and 3100km in a small car driven across Australia.
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That picture is awesome! This is one of the reasons why SFF builds are amazing. Did you carry it as hand luggage?

I also have the asus dc2 670 and while it is quiet enough in my current case(node 304) I would like it to be even quieter. Especially in idle. So I was thinking about removing the fans too and installing 2 on the bottom. So you did this and it works great?
 
Help!

I just bought this card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125471

It's a Gigabyte Windforce 780, and I just realized that it has 2x 8pin power connectors. The Silverstone SFX PSU only has one 8 and one 6 pin connector. Is there anything I can do? I was able to score this for $400 and really would not like to have to sell it again to find another card.

Thanks in advanced!
 
updawg said:
Help!

I just bought this card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125471

It's a Gigabyte Windforce 780, and I just realized that it has 2x 8pin power connectors. The Silverstone SFX PSU only has one 8 and one 6 pin connector. Is there anything I can do? I was able to score this for $400 and really would not like to have to sell it again to find another card.

Thanks in advanced!
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You can run a adapter or source a cable that has two 8 pins.

This is what the cable would look like

12092602232l.jpg
 
Rosewill Legacy MX2-B Trio Fans ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

I saw this on newegg. looks nice.
 
Necere - I'm sure this has been stated before, but are these cases anodized or painted? I want to look into the possibility of having my panels painted or powder coated and just wondering what sort of process they'll need to go through to strip the existing colour.
 
Dephcon said:
Necere - I'm sure this has been stated before, but are these cases anodized or painted? I want to look into the possibility of having my panels painted or powder coated and just wondering what sort of process they'll need to go through to strip the existing colour.
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The exterior panels (top/left/right/front) are anodized. The rest of the chassis is painted.
 
Dephcon said:
Necere - I'm sure this has been stated before, but are these cases anodized or painted? I want to look into the possibility of having my panels painted or powder coated and just wondering what sort of process they'll need to go through to strip the existing colour.
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I believe the external panels are anodized and the internal structure a sub parts are painted. The anodizing won't have to be removed for paint or powder. If you still feel like removing at least the coloring from the anodizing process you can use EasyOff oven cleaner. It works like a champ.
 
CMadki4 said:
I believe the external panels are anodized and the internal structure a sub parts are painted. The anodizing won't have to be removed for paint or powder. If you still feel like removing at least the coloring from the anodizing process you can use EasyOff oven cleaner. It works like a champ.
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Will that essentially give me silver panels? Are the silver panels just plain brushed alu?
 
Dephcon said:
Will that essentially give me silver panels? Are the silver panels just plain brushed alu?
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Necere could probably answer this better since he knows what Lian Li actually did, but I'm going to assume that both the silver and black cases are actually anodized.

Removing the anodizing dye will bring it back to what it was before they were anodized, which is bare and brushed/hairline aluminum. I've removed the anodizing on a few cases before and it essentially yielded bare aluminum.

So if you treat the anodized black M1 with EasyOff you'll see the surface turn blistery and textured. Then you wipe it away to reveal bare silver aluminum underneath. May require a repeat to really get it all.
 
Do you have any recommendation of powder coating vs re-anodizing. I found a place locally that does powder coating and can anodize red. Costs aside, would adding a powder coat add much restriction to the vents holes or something?
 
Dephcon said:
Do you have any recommendation of powder coating vs re-anodizing. I found a place locally that does powder coating and can anodize red. Costs aside, would adding a powder coat add much restriction to the vents holes or something?
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Given how the panels snap on, powder coating the external panels shouldn't create any issues. The powder build up at the vent holes wouldn't be enough to noticeably effect the cooling performance (unless they absolutely pile the powder on).

I'm not sure how consistent of a finish you would get reanodizing red. Keep in mind, the EasyOff removal method is taking of the dye. There is still an anodized layer on the panels (anodizing effects a microscopically thing surface layer of the material; more so with hard anodizing). You'd have to sand this layer off (also known as de-shingle) and have the brushed finish redone. If not done perfectly you may get an uneven finish.

All that said, powder coating is the most straight forward approach and is less likely to not turn out well due to the original anodized finish.
 
Thanks for your input! I heard back from that shop and powder is also considerably cheaper :D

Now I just need to see which of the three shops have the best price.
 
updawg said:
Help!

I just bought this card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125471

It's a Gigabyte Windforce 780, and I just realized that it has 2x 8pin power connectors. The Silverstone SFX PSU only has one 8 and one 6 pin connector. Is there anything I can do? I was able to score this for $400 and really would not like to have to sell it again to find another card.

Thanks in advanced!
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Look inside the box of your 780, it might be 2 adaptor 6pin to 8pin.
I had the same problem with my 680, and there was adaptor inside the GPU box :)
 
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