NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

[WiSK]

I am thinking about cooling solutions and am debating full watercooling. I haven't watercooled before though. Now what would the advantage be of building a loop from the ground up with the apogee drive ii vs expanding the H220. They both use the same block/pump combo?

If I was starting w/c myself now I'd get an H220. H220 is cheaper to start with, comes with rad and fans and will work out of the box. The AD2 is a bit more powerful - at 40% PWM it's enough flow for a small CPU+GPU loop - and it has a heatsink for better cooling of the pump itself.

Only advantage of the AD2 in the M1 is that the ports are a bit higher up away from the motherboard itself, which may help with some CPU socket positions. On the other hand, the H220 ports swivel and are a bit smaller overall.

Which motherboard do you have?

 

[AFD]

I had a look though Lian Li screws before and couldn't find any that would fit the thread for SSD so i guess they didn't use them sorry.

Would these be the correct ones..

Lian Li Anti-Vibration HDD Quick Release Mount Screw w/ Rubber Washer

Also found this deluxe Lian Li screw assortment kit, but I'm guessing the extended M3 screws w/rubber grommets are probably the same as the ones above..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_210_750_759&products_id=24640

 

[Necere]

Would these be the correct ones..

Lian Li Anti-Vibration HDD Quick Release Mount Screw w/ Rubber Washer

By the description and image, those appear to be #6-32 (3.5" HDD's use these, 2.5" drives use M3). So no.

Also found this deluxe Lian Li screw assortment kit, but I'm guessing the extended M3 screws w/rubber grommets are probably the same as the ones above..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_210_750_759&products_id=24640

This, on the other hand, sounds like it probably does have the right screws for SSD mounting (first item, "10 x M3 extended mounting screws with rubber grommets"). Kinda sucks having to buy a whole pack just for a few screws though.

Someone suggested using just two screws, at opposite corners, with four grommets. Not really ideal, but it'll work fine. That would let you use two of the 2.5" mounts, at least. And combined with the stacking brackets, you could have up to four 2.5" drives total installed, without any extra hardware needed.

 

[Dephcon]

Kinda sucks having to buy a whole pack just for a few screws though..

Comes in the sick box though... got one similar with my PC-D8000.

 

[pmwalk]

It's not quite normal, it's because you have a 90 degree fitting on the in-port. I have almost exactly the same situation on my FT03-mini, so it's a bit of coincidence that I had the same issue.

Tube on top left of pic is connected to the res in similar way as yours. I had to make sure the loop was as full as possible and then squeezed that tube until a big bubble came up into the res. After that it 'caught' the water and then I could fill the rest of the loop as normal.

Gotcha. So I've done some of the tips you've suggested: priming it horizontally and making sure I get any air bubbles I can out of the tube. It took a couple tries but now the pump doesn't sound dry when I turn it on. However, it's still not taking more water. I've used about half of the fluid in the bottle (32oz bottle), so I feel like it shouldn't be full, but maybe I'm really overestimating how much fluid a small loop holds. The water in the res looks like it's cycling, so maybe there's just a lot of air still trapped in the loop?

The pump is also still not that quiet. It's much more so then before, obviously, but if I flip it back to the vertical position it starts to sound like it's running dry again (although I don't think as bad as before).

EDIT: it doesn't seem like I'm making any more progress. The pump is now quieter in all orientations, but is still somewhat loud. I can hear the water, which means lots of bubbles, but there is also a very noticeable hum coming from the pump, easily heard over the fans. Does this mean I've killed it and need a new pump? I still have only used about 16oz total, with a full res.

 

[Ribozyme]

If I was starting w/c myself now I'd get an H220.
Which motherboard do you have?

I have an asus p8z77-i deluxe with low profile memory so I guess I won't have any compatibility issues according to the google docs spreadsheet.

The price is kind of what is pushing me towards H220. I would order it on highflow.nl and the H220 is cheaper than the Apogee Drive ii. Only would need to add a GPU block, tubing and fittings. I do like the looks of the apogee better. Also would a reservoir help a lot with temps? I don't like the idea of extra 'bulk' on the outside of the case but if it would decrease temps significantly(10-20degrees).. While speaking of bulk, anyone considering mounting a rad on the back of the case on the outside? Just wondering.

 

[Gookitron]

Gah! Working on a phone is so troublesome (but I digress).
Update on the screws situation: local RC shop did not carry the size I need but he had something very similar:

Traxxas part number 3642x
M3 x 12 hex drive with shoulder
Hex drive
$4 for 6 screws (ouch)

It is obviously longer but it fits the grommet (need to stretch the grommet a bit, but don't think that will affect the mounting... Will try tonight). The length will be shortened with my trusty dremel. I think the traxxas website may have a larger variety than the shop, but good enough for me. I'm impatient like that.

I found my local RC shop through horizon lobby.

Fyi I'm from the San Gabriel valley. Visiting my family's place out on Covina when I was searching for the hobby shop.

 

[WiSK]

Also would a reservoir help a lot with temps? I don't like the idea of extra 'bulk' on the outside of the case but if it would decrease temps significantly(10-20degrees)..

Reservoirs do nothing for temps, they only facilitate filling, priming (pump) and bleeding (air) from the loop. Without a reservoir it's tricky to fill up, and a very long and tedious task to remove all air bubbles.

This is another advantage of the H220 radiator: the built-in reservoir.

 

[pmwalk]

EDIT: it doesn't seem like I'm making any more progress. The pump is now quieter in all orientations, but is still somewhat loud. I can hear the water, which means lots of bubbles, but there is also a very noticeable hum coming from the pump, easily heard over the fans. Does this mean I've killed it and need a new pump? I still have only used about 16oz total, with a full res.

I'm going to post a short audio clip of what everything sounds like, and if anyone can give me some help, that would be great:

audio clip

My loop seems completely full--the res hasn't taken in any water since my last post, despite shaking it, queezing tubes, and turning the case in almost every direction, and the pump is still cycling water (from what I can see through the res), but is still quite loud. So I guess my question is: have I killed the pump, or is this just what the Drive II sounds like at full spin with (presumably) lots of little air bubbles?

 

[OverRated]

Gah! Working on a phone is so troublesome (but I digress).
Update on the screws situation: local RC shop did not carry the size I need but he had something very similar:

Traxxas part number 3642x
M3 x 12 hex drive with shoulder
Hex drive
$4 for 6 screws (ouch)

It is obviously longer but it fits the grommet (need to stretch the grommet a bit, but don't think that will affect the mounting... Will try tonight). The length will be shortened with my trusty dremel. I think the traxxas website may have a larger variety than the shop, but good enough for me. I'm impatient like that.

I found my local RC shop through horizon lobby.

Fyi I'm from the San Gabriel valley. Visiting my family's place out on Covina when I was searching for the hobby shop.

Look for Traxxas Shoulder Screws (6) 3642 there the none hex drive version also if you do buy these you will have to cut them down as there to long.

 

[Schwizzle]

Does anyone know what ATX PSU's are compatable with the case or if i could replace the pass through cable?

 

[OverRated]

Does anyone know what ATX PSU's are compatable with the case or if i could replace the pass through cable?

Power supply:

SFX up to 130mm, modular or non-modular.
ATX support via included bracket is limited to 140mm non-modular PSUs with cards longer than 200mm. ATX PSUs are not recommended due to limited room for long cables. Caution: the AC inlet orientation on some ATX power supplies may prevent the angle plug from fitting, please check carefully. See this image.

 

[Kaos_Drem]

So I'm looking at getting my silver case bright-dipped a different color, anyway problems you guys see arising from this? Only thing I can think of is that the pegs might come loose (not sure how they are attached).

 

[Skripka]

I'm going to post a short audio clip of what everything sounds like, and if anyone can give me some help, that would be great:

audio clip

My loop seems completely full--the res hasn't taken in any water since my last post, despite shaking it, queezing tubes, and turning the case in almost every direction, and the pump is still cycling water (from what I can see through the res), but is still quite loud. So I guess my question is: have I killed the pump, or is this just what the Drive II sounds like at full spin with (presumably) lots of little air bubbles?

Any 35X based pump at full throttle is simply loud and is going to sound like that IME.

 

[mwayne5]

So I'm looking at getting my silver case bright-dipped a different color, anyway problems you guys see arising from this? Only thing I can think of is that the pegs might come loose (not sure how they are attached).

You're dipping your M1?

The only problem I see is that you're dipping your M1, but to each their own I guess. The only real problem I can foresee is since dip is so thick, you may have some problems with the holes in the panels getting covered up, or you won't be able to get a clean finish on the inside sides of the holes.

 

[Kaos_Drem]

You're dipping your M1?

The only problem I see is that you're dipping your M1, but to each their own I guess. The only real problem I can foresee is since dip is so thick, you may have some problems with the holes in the panels getting covered up, or you won't be able to get a clean finish on the inside sides of the holes.

Bright-dip anodize, not plasti-dip. I'm looking at getting it dipped either fast-blue, caution orange, or "nvidia green". There is no additional goop or thickness added as it etches away the current finish and then adds a new brighter finish to it.

 

[Gookitron]

Look for Traxxas Shoulder Screws (6) 3642 there the none hex drive version also if you do buy these you will have to cut them down as there to long.

Yea I was able to browse their site a while ago after I made my discovery. I noticed those too (m3x10), but I already made my purchase. Like you said, cutting would still be required and I think the extra length would make it easier to cut (not sure). I ended up using a hack saw as the dremel created too much heat. No fitment issues when mounting on the inside front (I'll post pictures once I close up my case and turn it back on).

edit:
Oh I thought you linked to the Traxxas website (I didn't click because I was on my phone earlier). Anyways the Traxxas webstore contained the M3x10. The ones in that listing is the same size that I bought (M3x12). One packet is sufficient for me (only 3 for front inside mount +4 for side bracket.... But then there is +4 for bottom and +4 for front outside mount... I didn't count the grommets, is there enough?)

Left to Right: Original Traxxas M3x12, Lian Li SSD screw, 5 hack jobs on the Traxxas screws. (gloves, eye protection, and dust mask required )

Some are slightly shorter than the original LL screws, but so long as there is 2-3mm of thread I think it will hold on to the hdd/ssd just fine.

Sorry, blurry cell phone pic. The gist is that the SSD grommets will still mount onto the chassis. There may have been a slight increase of force to get the grommets into the slot, but I don't it was to the point of damaging anything (YMMV). The screw head is just about flush with the chassis.

 

[Iam918]

As Amazon is currently out of stock, does anywhere else I can get SilverstoneTek PP05-E cables that doesn't charge $12+ in shipping?

*cough*frozencpu*cough*

 

[TurbineTech]

As Amazon is currently out of stock, does anywhere else I can get SilverstoneTek PP05-E cables that doesn't charge $12+ in shipping?

*cough*frozencpu*cough*

I got my set for $44 bucks of Ebay (I know...), free shipping. I bought them on Thursday and they arrived in the mail today. I had originally purchased them out of stock form Amazon, but want to complete my build next week so bit the bullet on the cost increase.

This is who I bought from, looks like he jacked the price up a few bucks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silverstone...S_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item4d16713de2

Then there is this guy, cheaper price but charges almost 12 dollars for shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silverstone...S_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item3f2d62e50d


Good luck!

 

[AFD]

The only problem I see is that you're dipping your M1, but to each their own I guess.

Whether hydro-dipped, re-anodized, vinyl wrapped or painted, I'm really hoping to see at least some guys/gals here changing things up a bit. The black & silver are classic, and look great, but after a while it'll be refreshing to see some really unique builds (both inside and out).

Bright-dip anodize, not plasti-dip. I'm looking at getting it dipped either fast-blue, caution orange, or "nvidia green".

Definitely wanna see that.. do it! Maybe try a multi-color fade anodizing? Think yellow at the top, fading down to red at the bottom of the M1 would look sick..

 

[pmwalk]

Any 35X based pump at full throttle is simply loud and is going to sound like that IME.

I hope that's true.There's also a video here with the same pump and it seemed similar, so that also made me feel better. I definitely prefer it be somewhat loud than broken . Thanks!

 

[Andorski]

As Amazon is currently out of stock, does anywhere else I can get SilverstoneTek PP05-E cables that doesn't charge $12+ in shipping?

I got mine from Amazon even though they said out of stock. They shipped it 4 days later and got it two days after with my Amazon Prime free two-day shipping. I believe someone else in this thread said the same thing happened to him.

 

[Iam918]

I got my set for $44 bucks of Ebay (I know...), free shipping. I bought them on Thursday and they arrived in the mail today. I had originally purchased them out of stock form Amazon, but want to complete my build next week so bit the bullet on the cost increase.

This is who I bought from, looks like he jacked the price up a few bucks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silverstone...S_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item4d16713de2

Then there is this guy, cheaper price but charges almost 12 dollars for shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silverstone...S_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item3f2d62e50d


Good luck!

I got mine from Amazon even though they said out of stock. They shipped it 4 days later and got it two days after with my Amazon Prime free two-day shipping. I believe someone else in this thread said the same thing happened to him.

Thanks, went ahead and ordered them from Amazon. Am still waiting on some other cabling to come in to finish the build anyways.

 

[FreeGordonMan]

Thanks, went ahead and ordered them from Amazon. Am still waiting on some other cabling to come in to finish the build anyways.

I got mine within a week when Amazon was out of stock. Cable management is a breeze with this set.

 

[MikeTheTiger]

Just bought a black M1 on eBay. Looking to move my prodigy build over to it.

My current build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1YD6f

I obviously will be changing the cooler, PSU, and DVD to ones that fit in the M1. The prodigy case seems to be choking my GTX770, as it runs at pretty high temps. Has anyone experienced reasonable temps for their graphics cards using 120mm x2 mounted on the bottom. I did buy a EK waterblock on eBay last month for my 770, but haven't done a loop just yet. Plan to soon, as funds become available.

 

[TurbineTech]

You guys that have used the Silverstone pp05-e cable kit:

If your GPU is requiring an 8 pin and 6 pin connection are you using the 1 cable in the kit that has both versus running two cables? If so is it working out ok for you?

Thanks!

 

[pmwalk]

You guys that have used the Silverstone pp05-e cable kit:

If your GPU is requiring an 8 pin and 6 pin connection are you using the 1 cable in the kit that has both versus running two cables? If so is it working out ok for you?

Thanks!

I'm curious about this as well. I have a pp05-e kit on the way and planned on doing this. I think this would work, but I am not 100% sure.

 

[Andorski]

You guys that have used the Silverstone pp05-e cable kit:

If your GPU is requiring an 8 pin and 6 pin connection are you using the 1 cable in the kit that has both versus running two cables? If so is it working out ok for you?

Thanks!

Yup. I have the single 8-pin+6-pin cable powering my 780. Haven't done a stress test but my PC has booted to Windows with the HDMI cable plugged into the GPU.

 

[Andorski]

Just bought a black M1 on eBay. Looking to move my prodigy build over to it.

My current build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1YD6f

I obviously will be changing the cooler, PSU, and DVD to ones that fit in the M1. The prodigy case seems to be choking my GTX770, as it runs at pretty high temps. Has anyone experienced reasonable temps for their graphics cards using 120mm x2 mounted on the bottom. I did buy a EK waterblock on eBay last month for my 770, but haven't done a loop just yet. Plan to soon, as funds become available.

I don't think the 120mm x 2 fans on the bottom will help much with GPU cooling since your GTX 770 is a blower. It would be irrelevant if you decide to WC your GPU, but have you tried running your 770 with the Prodigy open? Unless your Prodigy had poor airflow, I don't see why your GPU would be running hot in that case. Even with the window panel there looks to be a reasonably sized gap for the GPU's blower to intake air.

 

[xbeater]

Any news on the Demciflex filters?

 

[Deleted member 222586]

Just bought a black M1 on eBay. Looking to move my prodigy build over to it.

My current build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1YD6f

I obviously will be changing the cooler, PSU, and DVD to ones that fit in the M1. The prodigy case seems to be choking my GTX770, as it runs at pretty high temps. Has anyone experienced reasonable temps for their graphics cards using 120mm x2 mounted on the bottom. I did buy a EK waterblock on eBay last month for my 770, but haven't done a loop just yet. Plan to soon, as funds become available.

I'm curious, how much did you pay, if you don't mind?

 

[vipz]

Did a quick search for completed listings on ebay, there are a few $400 Buy-It-Now's, and a single $700 Buy-It-Now (wat). Regular listings were $335-$385 incl. shipping.

 

[TurbineTech]

Yup. I have the single 8-pin+6-pin cable powering my 780. Haven't done a stress test but my PC has booted to Windows with the HDMI cable plugged into the GPU.

Thank you so much Andorski. I bought a 780 (reference) so I will be going this route as well!!

Thanks again!

 

[harsaphes]

Most of my parts arrived over the weekend. I bought the motherboard on Amazon from a seller trying to avoid using Newegg. Ahhhhhhhh, the box arrived from Newegg! from the seller. Fate.

 

[cookiePlant]

Anyone still selling their case?

 

[AFD]

Any news on the Demciflex filters?

DEMCiflex doesn't re-open from their holiday shutdown until tomorrow. So hopefully they'll have the M1 filters available to order sometime this week or next (unless there were other delays in the design or something)..

Please take note that orders placed from 20 December 2013 until 5th January 2014 will only be processed on 6th January 2014 as our factory will be shutdown for annual maintainance during this period. Orders may still be placed but will only be attended to on the 6th January 2014. Have a merry X-mas and a prosperous and happy 2014.

 

[MikeTheTiger]

I don't think the 120mm x 2 fans on the bottom will help much with GPU cooling since your GTX 770 is a blower. It would be irrelevant if you decide to WC your GPU, but have you tried running your 770 with the Prodigy open? Unless your Prodigy had poor airflow, I don't see why your GPU would be running hot in that case. Even with the window panel there looks to be a reasonably sized gap for the GPU's blower to intake air.

My GTX770 isn't the blower type. I did have pretty good airflow in the prodigy case. 120mm x4 as intake and the H90 with 140mm fan as exhaust. The temps didn't differ much when I took off the side panel. Maybe my GPU just gets that hot or the airflow wasn't as good as I thought. Maybe I should switch to a blower type card when the M1 comes in.

 

[TurbineTech]

DEMCiflex doesn't re-open from their holiday shutdown until tomorrow. So hopefully they'll have the M1 filters available to order sometime this week or next (unless there were other delays in the design or something)..

Who the heck does factory maintenance during Christmas?

 

[DGON.MKII]

Got my Silver M1 #0874 on 12/27 and finished it up recently here are some pics.

Thanks to Wahaha360 and Necere for this beautiful case!

 

[pmwalk]

Got my Silver M1 #0874 on 12/27 and finished it up recently here are some pics.

Thanks to Wahaha360 and Necere for this beautiful case!

Nice looking build. Very clean, I like it . The more I see the silver case the more I wish I'd gotten that one.