MSI P6N SLI-FI / Platinum (650i) Thread

if i didnt already have everything all dressed and screwed/plugged in id take some pics of the back.

i just used the stock backplate that came with the U120E and stuck it on there. didnt notice anything interfering or out of place and it went on with no problems.

here's the thermalright install page with pics so you can get an idea of how the bracket goes on:

http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main_support_installation_u120_extreme.htm

so far for me its working like a champ. only installation issue I had was squeezing my hand in the tight space to get it screwed in
 
Look like my SLi-Fi board will be coming out in the near future to test a XFX 680i SLI LT board that I just won. Just got to find out which one is best for my OC'ing adventures............:eek:
 
yacoub35 said:
So how did you get the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme mounted if there are some components on the bottom of the board under the CPU socket (that we have yet to see a single picture of) that people are reporting interfere with backplates like the Ultra 120 uses to mount itself on the board?
Click to expand...

Take a picture of the back of your motherboard and I'll show you, or find a picture. I'm sorry but I'm not about to take mine out of my case to snap a picture. It's just too much trouble. :)
 
Bio-Hazard said:
Look like my SLi-Fi board will be coming out in the near future to test a XFX 680i SLI LT board that I just won. Just got to find out which one is best for my OC'ing adventures............:eek:
Click to expand...

Traitor!! :D

Seriously though... could you snap a pic of the backside of the CPU area for us when you get your board out? Thanks.
 
Here is a pic that tells you about where the 'problem components' are on the back of the motherboard. I just remembered I took it back when I first installed my Zalman.

Sorry, I don't have a picture of whats under the backplate but I've circled the problem area.

zalman775backplate.jpg
 
I currently have the version MSI put on their website today (2.1) and I just noticed this thread had tons of other BIOS versions. I was wondering if i could get more of an overclock out of my system by updating to a newer BIOS(current beta is 2.13 i believe)? I havent given overclocking more a try with my current BIOS but with 2.0 the max i could reach perfectly stable is 3.0GHz(333FSB). Also has anyone tried flashing the platinum bios onto a FI board successfully? and does that make a difference?
 
Thanks for your input on my temperature problem. I did order a Artic Cooling Freezer Pro 7. $30 bucks cheaper at Directron (http://www.directron.com/lga775cooler.html than Newegg! I decided on this based on reviews and from this forum. My ambient room temps are 70-80 degrees (florida) with only a window shaker for my AC.

My case is the Cooler Master Centurion 5 ATX mid tower, with a 120mm rear exhaust fan and a 80mm front intake fan. I've enclosed a couple of photos, I know I can use some help with cable management.

Warning, don't fall of your chairs laughing at the mess.

casesm.jpg


casefrontsm.jpg


I would like to utilize the other 2 - 5.25 drive bays for a couple of more drives with the antec HD coolers. So that kinda of leaves out adding another fan in those spots. Any suggestions for after market case fans? Or should I just hope for the best after replacing with new HSF.

Thanks for your help.
 
you do realize those cables could be causing a lot of your heat issues right?... it's not just about being clean, it's about being cooled with a proper airflow, at least you have negative pressure in your case, but still
 
yeah...you REALLY need to work on your cable management. i suggest you go look at the rate my cables thread in the Cases Board>Case Mod Gallery for some ideas lol
 
zcubed said:
I currently have the version MSI put on their website today (2.1) and I just noticed this thread had tons of other BIOS versions. I was wondering if i could get more of an overclock out of my system by updating to a newer BIOS(current beta is 2.13 i believe)? I havent given overclocking more a try with my current BIOS but with 2.0 the max i could reach perfectly stable is 3.0GHz(333FSB). Also has anyone tried flashing the platinum bios onto a FI board successfully? and does that make a difference?
Click to expand...
In the begining, the Platinum bios helped out some, but then MSI got off their butts and issued a few Betas for the FI's that worked out just fine. The offical 2.1 for the Fi that's out now is actually the latest of all the Fi bios (check the bios dates) Bios 2.12 and 2.13 are Beta with earlier release dates than Bios 2.1 found on the MSI download page. But you might give the others a shot, they might just help you get a bit higher. Remember, every system performs a bit different than others, even when useing the same bios. Trial and error is about the best method to find the best for your own special situation.
 
Spanki said:
Traitor!! :D
Click to expand...

I'm getting bored waiting for my RMA to get turned around so I'll be joining the traitor camp (for a little while anyways) while I play with a P5B Deluxe until my P6N Platinum gets back :p . Just curious to see how they compare with the same hardware. I should have the board up and running tomorrow.

Still trying to figure out what happened to my Platinum board. Was great until plugging in the extra drive, but then again earlier on it was funky with that drive attached. Tried it in my GF's system and the HD is fine. Weird. Ordered another SATA drive, so will see how that goes.
 
I'm having some trouble choosing a heat sink for my build. Can someone offer a suggestion. I plan on using this case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811124121 and the Platinum board. The case has a large fan in the door so I,m not sure there will be room for a tower cooler. I thought I would use a cooler like The Aerocool Dominator http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129048 that will install parallel to the motherboard and use the door fan to cool the heatsink. I could remove the fan off the Aerocool Dominator but the cooler itself seems a little big. I wanted to use the theralright SI-120 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109123 but it seems to be discontinued. Does anyone know if the thermalright xp-120 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109118 will fit. Its about the same as the SI but sits lower. Not sure it will clear the NB cooler. The theralright SI-128 is also an option if it will fit. I have looked at the list at the begining of this thread. Thanks for any advice.
 
^ACTUALLY look at the Thermalright SI-128 or else i'd go with the XP-120 i think...

hey guys i need some input, as i posted on the previous page i was able to hit 3.4ghz orthos stable and 3.6ghz on stock cooling on the SLI-FI w/ an E6600 and AC freezer pro

i'm now about to add some mosfet coolers as well as a thermalright to the northbridge

i am curious as to what the safest max voltages are for the NB/SB... i've always assumed 1.5v, but a buddy of mine has the 975x chipset and says his starts at 1.5v (not sure if that's right)

anyhow any feedback would be appreciated

spanki - i can also confirm this memory for the front page

OCZ 2GB DDR2 (2 x 1GB) DDR2-1066 5-5-5-15 @2.1v OCZ2N1066SR2GK (Micron D-9, EPP, 2.35v EVP)
 
prospero said:
...i am curious as to what the safest max voltages are for the NB/SB... i've always assumed 1.5v, but a buddy of mine has the 975x chipset and says his starts at 1.5v (not sure if that's right)

anyhow any feedback would be appreciated

spanki - i can also confirm this memory for the front page

OCZ 2GB DDR2 (2 x 1GB) DDR2-1066 5-5-5-15 @2.1v OCZ2N1066SR2GK (Micron D-9, EPP, 2.35v EVP)
Click to expand...

According to the nVidia Overclocking guide (linked on the front page)...

Maximum Recommended Voltages

Note:​
​
​
​
Be very careful when increasing voltages as setting them too high can destroy the processor and other components on the motherboard.

Below is a list of the safe, maximum voltages that should be used for overclocking.
Any voltages not mentioned are best left at their Auto setting.​

  • ​
  • ​
  • CPU Core: 1.58750v​
  • CPU FSB: 1.5v​
  • Memory: 2.3v​
  • nForce SPP: 1.50v​
Click to expand...

...note that the nVidia NB (SPP) starts at 1.25v, which may well be different than the Intel NB, so you can't use that as a guide. For the SB, it's not mentioned above, but I've found one bump (from the default 1.5v up to 1.6v) to be usefull in stablizing some overclocks, but I would be reluctant to go any higher than that (shouldn't be any need to).

Thanks for the memory report... I'll add that one.
 
Wanted to update those who responded to my temperature concerns.

I received and installed my AC Pro7 and wanted to share my new temp stats.

These are my new idle temps
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These are my temps after 2 hour Orthos
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Here were my before temps at idle
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before temps under load
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Do you think I'm now in a safe zone with my temps to start trying my hand overclocking this e6300 a little more?
 
photoman said:
Wanted to update those who responded to my temperature concerns.

I received and installed my AC Pro7 and wanted to share my new temp stats.

Do you think I'm now in a safe zone with my temps to start trying my hand overclocking this e6300 a little more?
Click to expand...

Alright, 5C-10C drop is a nice start. Have you considered a bunch of zip ties and clearing the path as best you can from the front 80mm fan through to the rear 120mm? Just want to establish a nice flow of air over the mobo/NB/CPU. You're in the safe zone, technically, being below 65C, although you don't want to flirt with that level on a regular basis. I'd say keep coretemp on and push your proc as far as stock volts will take while staying in the safe zone. I'm sure better airflow will help a lot, and maybe its tiome to think about another case fan or two. Might be a fun project, adding a 120mm on the side, perhaps, and possibly the top? Maybe others with more experience have better ideas. Clear that path for the airflow from front to back as best you can.
 
thanks bud!
i ran orthos blend test for a little over 19hrs on this setting, fig'd it was good enough (i've been gaming, etc w/o any hiccups)
msi p6n sli plat. (bios ver 1.1)
nb: 1.4v sb:1.5v vtt:4%
fsb: 430mhz (x4=1720)
cpu:c2d e6400 2.13ghz (rev.B2)
oc: 3.44ghz 1.4v (+.0750v)(x8 multi)
ram: mushkin extreme ddr2 800 4-4-3-10 2.0v (micron d-9)
@860 2.1v 4-4-3-10


oh hey! my sig showed up now lol! anyhoo, i'm working on a fsb of 438 right now (currently running orthos now). a few mins ago i was working on 450 fsb but kept bsod'ing
 
BubbaWillis said:
thanks bud!
i ran orthos blend test for a little over 19hrs on this setting, fig'd it was good enough (i've been gaming, etc w/o any hiccups)
msi p6n sli plat. (bios ver 1.1)
nb: 1.4v sb:1.5v vtt:4%
fsb: 430mhz (x4=1720)
cpu:c2d e6400 2.13ghz (rev.B2)
oc: 3.44ghz 1.4v (+.0750v)(x8 multi)
ram: mushkin extreme ddr2 800 4-4-3-10 2.0v (micron d-9)
@860 2.1v 4-4-3-10


oh hey! my sig showed up now lol! anyhoo, i'm working on a fsb of 438 right now (currently running orthos now). a few mins ago i was working on 450 fsb but kept bsod'ing
Click to expand...

Nice OC, Bubba! I'll be interested in how you do chasing 450 and what it might take to get there. Good luck!!
 
Edge
Yes, got some ideas from the case mod section from this board. Thought about adding at least a 120mm on side door and rerouting some of the cables thru hole on the other side of case. Found great info here on others Centurion case mods. Thanks for pointing me in right direction all.

Would anyone have some e6300 overclock settings with this MSI board they might share. Ive looked thru alot of the past threads but might have overlooked previous results that some of you might be achieving.
 
photoman said:
Edge
Yes, got some ideas from the case mod section from this board. Thought about adding at least a 120mm on side door and rerouting some of the cables thru hole on the other side of case. Found great info here on others Centurion case mods. Thanks for pointing me in right direction all.

Would anyone have some e6300 overclock settings with this MSI board they might share. Ive looked thru alot of the past threads but might have overlooked previous results that some of you might be achieving.
Click to expand...

I added some overclocking info links (from this thread) that usama_ah gathered to the front page. I'm not sure if any are E6300 specific, but you can look through those.
 
BubbaWillis said:
thanks bud!
i ran orthos blend test for a little over 19hrs on this setting, fig'd it was good enough (i've been gaming, etc w/o any hiccups)
msi p6n sli plat. (bios ver 1.1)
nb: 1.4v sb:1.5v vtt:4%
fsb: 430mhz (x4=1720)
cpu:c2d e6400 2.13ghz (rev.B2)
oc: 3.44ghz 1.4v (+.0750v)(x8 multi)
ram: mushkin extreme ddr2 800 4-4-3-10 2.0v (micron d-9)
@860 2.1v 4-4-3-10


oh hey! my sig showed up now lol! anyhoo, i'm working on a fsb of 438 right now (currently running orthos now). a few mins ago i was working on 450 fsb but kept bsod'ing
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.. I was assuming you were under water with those temps, but I see by your new sig that you are - very nice :).

Have you tried bumping the SB voltage up one notch yet? That seemed to stablize my oc when I was messing with it a week or so ago.
 
photoman said:
Edge
Yes, got some ideas from the case mod section from this board. Thought about adding at least a 120mm on side door and rerouting some of the cables thru hole on the other side of case. Found great info here on others Centurion case mods. Thanks for pointing me in right direction all.
Click to expand...

Cool man:cool: . Bad pun, I know:rolleyes: . You're on your way! Tell us about your progress when you can. That case was on my radar til I splurged on the Antec, which I still ended up modding a bit.

Edit - this guy added 2 120mm side fans and a front fan to that case: http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-...448-shifty22123s-0-96-centurion-case-mod.html
 
Anybody here ever get an Open box OEM mobo from Newegg? Does it come with nothing but the bare mobo? Considering getting an Open box OEM P6N SLI-FI for my kids' build. With a price of $71 its hard to resist.
 
Edge said:
Anybody here ever get an Open box OEM mobo from Newegg? Does it come with nothing but the bare mobo? Considering getting an Open box OEM P6N SLI-FI for my kids' build. With a price of $71 its hard to resist.
Click to expand...

I've seen them come totally complete and completely empty (bare board), I guess it depends on what they get back.
 
i love this board its great.... does anyone know if it has a temperature shutdown option ? i dont want to fry my cpu if my pump failed or something.
 
Well I ditched my E6300 for an E6600 and a Zalman 9700 NT, so since I had to take my mobo out anyway here are some pics including one of the 'problem area' for the bacplates on the backside of the motherboard.

These two pictures show the 'problem area' on the back of the motherboard that causes interference with some cooler backplates such as the one that comes with the Zalman 9500 and 9700 coolers. Look near the upper right hole and you'll see a large SMD resistor along with 4 smaller ones.
newstuffmay%20007.JPG
newstuffmay%20008.JPG




Here is my ghetto routing job on the Zalman backplate. I just used a very large drill bit to scrape out all the offending pieces until I felt the backplate fit flat on the back of the board without interference.
newstuffmay%20009.JPG
newstuffmay%20010.JPG



More eye candy; CPU installed, box for the E6600 and 9700 NT:
newstuffmay%20011.JPG
newstuffmay%20012.JPG
newstuffmay%20017.JPG
newstuffmay%20020.JPG



My new Zalman 9700 NT next to my previous 9500 AM2:
newstuffmay%20021.JPG
newstuffmay%20022.JPG



Installing everything back into my case :p
newstuffmay%20025.JPG
newstuffmay%20026.JPG

newstuffmay%20027.JPG
newstuffmay%20028.JPG
newstuffmay%20029.JPG
 
Awesome, Blue Falcon. I love eye candy! Great shot of the "offending" area and I like the ghetto modding:cool: . That PC P&C PSU is very cool-looking also. Looking forward to hearing about clocks with that new proc.
 
great work Falcon!! Thanks for providing those longed-for shots of the back of the board! :)
 
I just got this board and am getting ready to start it up for the first time tonight but had a question. I've been out of the loop for a while, but last time I installed windows with a new mobo, at one point I had to hit f6 to install the 3rd party SATA drivers, and then I put in a floppy that came with my motherboard. On this system I'm going to have 2 SATA hd's (not in raid or anything like that), but noticed that no floppy came with this mobo. Does this mean i dont have to do that this time around, or do I still need to and am i just supposed to download the drivers online? I've skimmed through this thread and looked around online some and couldnt really find a definitive answer...
 
When i set my cpu/ram to linked at 1610fsb my ram only reads 377.3mhz in CPUZ, do I need to do something different??
 
NickC19 said:
I just got this board and am getting ready to start it up for the first time tonight but had a question. I've been out of the loop for a while, but last time I installed windows with a new mobo, at one point I had to hit f6 to install the 3rd party SATA drivers, and then I put in a floppy that came with my motherboard. On this system I'm going to have 2 SATA hd's (not in raid or anything like that), but noticed that no floppy came with this mobo. Does this mean i dont have to do that this time around, or do I still need to and am i just supposed to download the drivers online? I've skimmed through this thread and looked around online some and couldnt really find a definitive answer...
Click to expand...

You do not need to use any extra driver floppies or otherwise during the installation of Windows so long as you are not using your drives in a RAID array.

Once you've installed Windows be sure and install the latest 650i/680i platform drivers from www.nvidia.com.
 
Edge said:
Awesome, Blue Falcon. I love eye candy! Great shot of the "offending" area and I like the ghetto modding:cool: .
Click to expand...

Thank you sir. I myself am an eye candy NUT so I try and take lots of pictures whenever I do anything to my rig. :)


That PC P&C PSU is very cool-looking also. Looking forward to hearing about clocks with that new proc.[/QUOTE]

The PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 is hands down the best PSU I've ever had the pleasure of owning and using in my personal rig. I highly recommend it.

Clocks? Well I'm trying to get it stable at 3.6ghz @ 1.45v right now. :D
 
I'm currently running orthos on my setup @ 3219 mhz with the following settings
cpuv-+.100
NB-1.4
SB-1.5(default)
fsb-1610
memory 1.9
fsb/mem-linked(cpuz only reading 377.3)

So far stable for 48min. 25sec, max temps hit 60c but usually sits around 57-58c. Tried 1640FSB but windows would not boot. My question is how log should I run orthos to consider it stable
 
blue falcon, why do you have your zalman facing up? it is my impression that you would want the fan facing out the back since i can see the exhaust fan on the back...i'm assuming you have a fan exhaust on top as well? i understand the logic having hot air go up, but i would think you'd want the extra air pushing over the mosfet heatsink in the rear

i got my E6600 w/ SLI-FI board w/ AC freezer pro 7 to boot to windows @ 3.6
see my settings here: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1030990878&postcount=949

i'm sure with a larger cooler and the plat. board you should be able to get it stable.
 
nightwalker said:
anyone ?
Click to expand...

Not to my knowledge, although I believe the C2D will actually auto throttle itself once it reaches an insane temperature - reguardless of the E1C settings in the BIOS. No auto shutdown option though.

There is software out there that will do this for you too. I know Motherboard Monitor used to be able to do it...
 
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