• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Mechanical Keyboard Guide

reb00tin said:
Rosewill with Cherry mx:
- the ink on the keycaps is porous so it gets dirty and invisible very quickly.
- removable USB cable connectors on PCB beak very often.
Click to expand...

False. The ink gets dirty quickly, but not more quickly than other keyboards. It will not be invisible for a very, very long time as well. I have the most abrasive fingers of all time, and the ink is no longer sparkly white, but it's still all there and very bright. In comparison, at this stage, my ducky 1087 had ink that had completely worn off.

False. Only a few people have had the usb connector break. Mostly due to keeping the cable attached and winding it around the keyboard when moving it around. Which puts a lot of stress on the connector. Not only that, but newegg's warranty on the board is far better than most other places.
 
That's because Newegg is reliable in themselves. So it definitely is worth it for a Rosewill one then?
 
Without a doubt its a costar keyboard. The same people that make filco and wasd keyboards. I hear that the lettering is a little iffy but well worth the price.
 
el-jorge said:
Picked up the corsair today. It is going back tomorrow. The backlight on one of the keys was not working. And it makes a lot more noise than I expected from what I heard of the videos on youtube. I dont like that. Probably going to look for some rubberdome keyboard.
Click to expand...

The only noise you're going to get from the Corsair is bottoming out the keys. Which is a bit easier on linear switches.

You can do some mods to prevent bottoming out (adding o-rings to the key-caps, cuts the travel short).

I'm surprised how much I liked the red's on this ducky 1008 I picked up. I had a Das with blue's and a Model M and preferred the tactile/clicky feel. Or so I thought. Maybe I'm just not that picky and like every keyboard :eek:

I have a couple more boards coming... KBTalking Race with browns and an old Dell AT101W with black alps (I think). And now I want a CM Storm with reds because I like the reds on the ducky so much.I also just bought a CM Storm with blues just to try out TKL, but it's pretty similar to my Das. It seems like the keycaps themselves make a significant difference in the sound and feel of the blue switches. The Das has a louder click, the CM Storm sometimes doesn't even sound like blue switches, but every key on the Das has a loud click. I also bought an RGB kit for the Das and those keys sound different (quieter/deeper) from the stock keys. I wouldn't think it would have made that much of a difference.
 
Well.. just dumped a full glass of water onto my Das Ultimate. Then I made the shit-headed mistake of turning it upside down and then rightside up, which means water got inside it. I gave it a shake after the first bit of clean-up and a couple tablespoons of water poured out of the USB ports, lol. I've currently got most of the keys popped off and my dehumidifier is pushing dry air over the board. I'll leave it that way for at least 24 hours, should take care of it I hope.
 
Go buy a big bag of uncooked rice, slit it open and put the entire keyboard inside under the rice. Leave it like that over night. Solved.
 
^ that's very good advice. I would do it but I think the dehumidifier is working. If I hold my fingers over the USB ports I can feel air blowing out so there should be airflow inside the board to quickly evaporate the rest. I might still do the rice thing as I have some just lying around anyways...
 
Bbq said:
False. The ink gets dirty quickly, but not more quickly than other keyboards. It will not be invisible for a very, very long time as well. I have the most abrasive fingers of all time, and the ink is no longer sparkly white, but it's still all there and very bright. In comparison, at this stage, my ducky 1087 had ink that had completely worn off.

False. Only a few people have had the usb connector break. Mostly due to keeping the cable attached and winding it around the keyboard when moving it around. Which puts a lot of stress on the connector. Not only that, but newegg's warranty on the board is far better than most other places.
Click to expand...

Does Rosewill use the same stabilizer as Filco?
 
Well it looks like my Das Ultimate is fine after a nice rinse from yesterday's water incident. Didn't use any rice just left it upside down with the keys off and a dehumidifier blowing on it.

The keycaps on this board are completely blank. Each row of keys has a different height at the back by like 1MM so you can't just pop them all back in. It took about twenty minutes to get all the keys back in their correct rows. Some keys are still in the wrong row.. Next time removing blank keycaps I'll place them into little groups by row.
 
nice to learn these different tricks for properly drying up a keyboard or any electronics that got wet. i think water is not too difficult. what if it's coca cola or soda? I'm guessing it'd be a lot worse and harder to clean.
 
kbfreak said:
nice to learn these different tricks for properly drying up a keyboard or any electronics that got wet. i think water is not too difficult. what if it's coca cola or soda? I'm guessing it'd be a lot worse and harder to clean.
Click to expand...

If you can't take it apart, you can try pouring alcohol or acetone in to try to wash the sticky stuff out. That's a lot trickier though.
 
I picked up a CoolerMaster Quickfire Rapid last week as my first mechanical keyboard and loved it. Unfortunately, my wife would not quit complaining about how loud it was (MX Blues). So I took it back and splurged on the Corsair K90. After using the blues the reds aren't enjoyable to type on at all. They barely feel better than the rubber dome Logitech I have. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it at this point; I may get my $140 back and just keep using my Logitech G510.
 
Bankie said:
I picked up a CoolerMaster Quickfire Rapid last week as my first mechanical keyboard and loved it. Unfortunately, my wife would not quit complaining about how loud it was (MX Blues). So I took it back and splurged on the Corsair K90. After using the blues the reds aren't enjoyable to type on at all. They barely feel better than the rubber dome Logitech I have. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it at this point; I may get my $140 back and just keep using my Logitech G510.
Click to expand...

Yeah I picked up a quickfire in blues the other day as well, I have been using it pretty extensively at this point and had a chance to use a regular rubber dome keyboard today as well and it was awful, can't say enough about how awesome these keyboards are.
 
Bankie said:
I picked up a CoolerMaster Quickfire Rapid last week as my first mechanical keyboard and loved it. Unfortunately, my wife would not quit complaining about how loud it was (MX Blues). So I took it back and splurged on the Corsair K90. After using the blues the reds aren't enjoyable to type on at all. They barely feel better than the rubber dome Logitech I have. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it at this point; I may get my $140 back and just keep using my Logitech G510.
Click to expand...

Consider browns. They don't have as strong a "bump" as blues by any means but they aren't as mushy as blacks and reds.
 
Bankie said:
I picked up a CoolerMaster Quickfire Rapid last week as my first mechanical keyboard and loved it. Unfortunately, my wife would not quit complaining about how loud it was (MX Blues). So I took it back and splurged on the Corsair K90. After using the blues the reds aren't enjoyable to type on at all. They barely feel better than the rubber dome Logitech I have. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it at this point; I may get my $140 back and just keep using my Logitech G510.
Click to expand...

You should try browns or blacks. Browns give you tactile feedback and are fairly light, comparable to the blues. Blacks exhibit the same linearity as reds but a lot heavier. I have both a brown TKL and a black TKL.

I use the browns at work. It exhibits some level of noise when you bottom out as blues minus the "click" but is fairly quiet when you don't. The lightness of the browns help me fatigue less likely. Blacks are also a pleasure. It's fairly light prior to the actuation point. Pushing the key beyond the actuation point is when you feel the key become "heavy". I use blacks at home / gaming. For $140, you can pick up a Filco TKL Linear from Amazon.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Since I know I will have extra money after upping my system... still really considering if I should move to one of these. I did a test on my current keyboard. My actuation is actually anywhere between 70g and 80g, so a Brown would sound really good right now. Just do wish there were more like Ducky Shines but maybe a bit better quality.
 
SolidSnakeUS said:
Since I know I will have extra money after upping my system... still really considering if I should move to one of these. I did a test on my current keyboard. My actuation is actually anywhere between 70g and 80g, so a Brown would sound really good right now. Just do wish there were more like Ducky Shines but maybe a bit better quality.
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with the Ducky Shine's quality. It's a solid board.
If you can live without the backlighting, something like a full sized filco, leo, das, rosewill, or even a custom board from www.wasdkeyboards.com would serve you well. Don't shy too far away from blacks. If you're already accustomed to the 70/80g, black switches would be buttery smooth. I know they're touted as high as 60g but in reality, the stiffness doesn't come into play until after you've actuated the key. From the top to actuation, it's close to 45/50g. The spring will resist you when you push further than that.
 
Backlight would be damn nice to have. I do like it also because of the media buttons in the top right. It's kind of weird actually. Playing for long periods of time when gaming, my mouse hand (left hand) actually hurts more than playing on my current keyboard (since I use the arrow keys). Should I get a new mouse instead of a new keyboard? Just a thought...

But if I was just going to get a pure mechanical, I'm going to jump on the Rosewill Brown.
 
erick_c said:
There's nothing wrong with the Ducky Shine's quality. It's a solid board.
If you can live without the backlighting, something like a full sized filco, leo, das, rosewill, or even a custom board from www.wasdkeyboards.com would serve you well. Don't shy too far away from blacks. If you're already accustomed to the 70/80g, black switches would be buttery smooth. I know they're touted as high as 60g but in reality, the stiffness doesn't come into play until after you've actuated the key. From the top to actuation, it's close to 45/50g. The spring will resist you when you push further than that.
Click to expand...

I concur. My Ducky Shine is very good quality. No problems with it at all and I absolutely love it.
 
SolidSnakeUS said:
Playing for long periods of time when gaming, my mouse hand (left hand) actually hurts more than playing on my current keyboard (since I use the arrow keys). Should I get a new mouse instead of a new keyboard? Just a thought...
Click to expand...

Depends. Where does it hurt, when does it hurt, how long until the pain sets in, and what type of pain is it?
 
I'd say after intense (lots of mouse movement) gaming sessions and what usually hurts is the dead center of my hand. Feel it more on the back of my hand, but definitely dead center of the palm. I use a Logitech MX310, mainly because I haven't found ANYTHING to replace it. I mean, I might think of a Death Adder Left Handed or a NZXT Avatar S. I know I went off topic. Still wondering if I should really get a new keyboard over a mouse though... hmmm...
 
SolidSnakeUS said:
I'd say after intense (lots of mouse movement) gaming sessions and what usually hurts is the dead center of my hand. Feel it more on the back of my hand, but definitely dead center of the palm. I use a Logitech MX310, mainly because I haven't found ANYTHING to replace it. I mean, I might think of a Death Adder Left Handed or a NZXT Avatar S. I know I went off topic. Still wondering if I should really get a new keyboard over a mouse though... hmmm...
Click to expand...

Mouse. My hand will hurt if I use small mouses.
 
This mouse isn't that small and not that big and also my hands aren't that big either. I was really thinking of the Death Adder Left Handed. $53 with free shipping (including Prime as an option) from Amazon.
 
SolidSnakeUS said:
This mouse isn't that small and not that big and also my hands aren't that big either. I was really thinking of the Death Adder Left Handed. $53 with free shipping (including Prime as an option) from Amazon.
Click to expand...

I am just saying if the mouse is not fitting your hand well it can cause pain.
 
Kinda yeah. But it would have to be a lot of movement for a good period of time. At least an hour. And it feels like it's in the back of my hand, dead center.
 
SolidSnakeUS said:
Kinda yeah. But it would have to be a lot of movement for a good period of time. At least an hour. And it feels like it's in the back of my hand, dead center.
Click to expand...

I guess also make sure you are not putting a lot of stress on your hand while holding the mouse. It's hard to describe, the way I know my hand likes the mouse is that I only need a minimal amount of force to move the mouse, so I don't get fatigue over time.
 
Well this mouse is like 400dpi or 800dpi (can't remember which). So I have to do a lot of movement. I basically wrap my hand around the mouse. Sometimes I do it enough where I might start rolling over the side of my hand or my pinky finger. Remember, I'm left handed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top