Loop very hot

ShadeZeRO

Limp Gawd
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
396
Hey all,
I built a watercooling rig a few months back (my first attempt at one). And my temps have been VERY high.

I was wondering if anyone has any idea as to why that may be? To summarize what I have:

EK Blocks on my CPU and 1 of my 470's
Dual 360 rads
MCP655 running on full blast.
T-Virus Res
Loops as short as possible.
AP-15's on RADs

I've tried reapplying thermal paste, but I think the issue may be elsewhere. I'll take any advice as you have to offer :)

speccyp.png


My rig here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1094722/m8-ek-swiftech-smexyshade-build-log/20
 
That's not right. If it jumped up to 98 C within 6 seconds of running LinX, that means the heat is not being transferred to your waterblock.
 
That's not right. If it jumped up to 98 C within 6 seconds of running LinX, that means the heat is not being transferred to your waterblock.

You think I should remove the spacers i have behind the screws on the backplate? or get bigger spacers for a tighter seal?
 
If you have dual 360 radiators and your CPU is that hot......it ain't seated correctly. that CPU at that clock can be easily handled by a middle-road air heatsink.

I'd take the cpu block and connectors off and redo that.
Re-TIM the cpu while your at it.

You other temps look fine.:D
 
When you take off your waterblock, upload a picture of the TIM spread before cleaning and reapplying. It'll help us figure out if that's the issue. I'm also considering that the backplate might not be sitting flat based on this (blurry) picture. Top right looks like it might be out of plane?

IMG_5875.JPG
 
Your pump is the problem, your gpu temps are very high to, 45c at idle on your gpu!! Drain the water and see if you can blow air thru your loop with your lungs. Tafe apart the pump and see if the impellar has something stuck in it.
 
Hell, even his motherboard is pretty hot, 60*c tells me that he may not have good case airflow.

There is definitely something wrong here and like everyone else has said, check your pump. Its not set on 1 is it?

EDIT: Just saw that its a swiftech and not a D5, so I guess there is no speed adjustment. But yeah, make sure the pump is actually moving water.
 
The 655 is the variable version, the 655-B is the non-variable version.
 
Hell, even his motherboard is pretty hot, 60*c tells me that he may not have good case airflow.

Yes, make sure you have some airflow across the motherboard. One of the things an air HSF does is blows a load of air around the socket, meaning that the motherboard components are in the firing line and get cooled. With a water setup there's no fan there, so you might need to add a little airflow across those components.
 
He did post links to his pictures... look at the bottom of his OP.

herp derp.

Well i'd say its a pump issue then. Or bubbles. Or bad mount. At least it's not that guy saying putting more fans on his radiator did nothing, and he posted a picture and the rad was sitting flat against a piece of cardboard beneath his case.
 
Wow... I must have missed that? Where was that?

Yeah, Im leaning either towards HORRLBE installation of blocks or a pump issue since his card is iding about 15*c hotter than mine on water.
 
herp derp.

Well i'd say its a pump issue then. Or bubbles. Or bad mount. At least it's not that guy saying putting more fans on his radiator did nothing, and he posted a picture and the rad was sitting flat against a piece of cardboard beneath his case.


Wait was that the guy who made that ultra ghetto water cooling system with the weirdest placement of stuff so it had no airflow and then got mad when it was pointed out? I need to find that thread for the hilarity.

Anyhow, back on topic, I'm going to use this convenient quote to agree with you. It's one of those three things.
 
HAHA yes, I remember that guy... he had the rad hanging out the back of his case, sitting on the ground didnt he? And he had the biggest mess of wires inside the case that anyone had ever seen?

I think the title of the thread was "Fan speed has no effect on temps??" or something like that!
 
with those two rez's, movement should be very noticeable. Especially right after filling when the bubbles are going crazy. Did you see any movement during leak testing?
 
Sorry for the delayed post. I'm thinking it might be a flow issue, or a clog somewhere in my lines.

I reseated the waterblock, and even added a small spacer to increase tension force. I forgot to take a picture of the thermal paste, I'll reseat once more to show you all.

My pump is set to the max (turned all the way to the right) which I think is 5? Also, yes, I saw bubbles as I refilled my res.

I agree my case does not have enough airflow. I have only 2 additional fans on my hard drives. I'll add some to the front once the AP-15s come into stock. Even my other GTX 470 without a waterblock is idling at 60*C.

Any suggestions on where to go next?
 
Still sounds like you don't have much (if any) flow. You can try holding a flashlight behind your tubing, you should be able to see tiny bubbles flowing. The water in the res should also be swirling around a bit. The pump just might not be able to handle 2 360 rads. :eek:

And since it's a PITA going to another forum to see your pics, I'm putting them in here:
IMG_5933.JPG

IMG_5932.JPG
 
Seriously, there has to be a major obstruction in your loop somewhere. There is no way you're that high in temps with a D5 and two 360s.
 
I think it might be a combo of two things. First off I agree that something is not right with your pump. It might be running but i don't think it's working to spec. You have a really good pump there and I don't think it should be having that hard of a time even with the two rads. On a second note you really might want to get more case fans in there since you seem to have no directional airflow at all.

Good luck and I hope you get this worked out. Sometimes this shit gets so frustrating!
 
yeah its sounds like the pump or the water block is not seated right.
pump has air in it. not primed fully.
maybe a blockage in the flow somewhere ?
check the top 2 first.
is your pump wired for 12v or 5v ?


its not the air flow in the case causing these temps.
 
yeah its sounds like the pump or the water block is not seated right.
pump has air in it. not primed fully.
maybe a blockage in the flow somewhere ?
check the top 2 first.
is your pump wired for 12v or 5v ?


its not the air flow in the case causing these temps.
Reseated the CPU. Still the same temps.

I think there might be air in the loop. I got a few bubbles out some how, but not sure how to get the rest out.
 
Reseated the CPU. Still the same temps.

I think there might be air in the loop. I got a few bubbles out some how, but not sure how to get the rest out.

When I built my computer I had to literally pick it up and move it around and more or less flip it over in order to push the air through the lines. I had the water pushing down and my 655 wasnt strong enough to push the air out of the lines. So I would try something like that. Its really nerve recking though. Scared the hell out of me but this [H]. Lol
 
I've found that top mounted rads are very tough to bleed. What I ended up doing with mine was tilt it so the inlet/outlets were at the top, IE pointed toward the ceiling so the air would gather at the top, then turned the pump on and watched the air come out. I had to do this several times and it slowly pushed most of the air out. Course with white tubing you can't watch the bubbles :(

I do like how you routed that tubing though, would have loved to have dropped the dough for that case.
 
When exactly did you buy your EK blocks and are they by any chance nickel plated?
 
I'd do a few things:

a) Check that the cpu is correctly mounted, with the tubing "in" coming from the pump.
b) Change the fans on the rads: its pointless to have the fans on rads as "outs" when they have to be as "ins". This way, you get more airflow inside your case, which is good, and you also get the rads to use clean air, which is even better. Win-win.
c) Move the case while running the pump (pump only, nothing else) so that the trapped air can get out somehow. It will be a pita because you have the rads as the highest spot, but it is doable.
 
b) Change the fans on the rads: its pointless to have the fans on rads as "outs" when they have to be as "ins". This way, you get more airflow inside your case, which is good, and you also get the rads to use clean air, which is even better. Win-win.

I wouldn't agree with that at all. Pushing warm air in from the rads isn't that great of an idea as you'll just increase the ambient air inside the case, and without a proper exhaust you can't really controll where that warm air ends up. A couple of intake fans and maybe one internal directional fan will provide extra airflow extactly where its needed while also still pulling cool air into the case for the rads to use.
 
orrrr

a huge piece of EK's shitty plating flaked off and stuck sideways somewhere
 
If you haven't already, check if you have correctly placed the inlets and outlets on your waterblocks.

I once had a inlet port used as an outlet and it gave me bad temps lose those. It might just be that.
 
If you haven't already, check if you have correctly placed the inlets and outlets on your waterblocks.

I once had a inlet port used as an outlet and it gave me bad temps lose those. It might just be that.

Checked, all's fine.

I'd do a few things:

a) Check that the cpu is correctly mounted, with the tubing "in" coming from the pump.
b) Change the fans on the rads: its pointless to have the fans on rads as "outs" when they have to be as "ins". This way, you get more airflow inside your case, which is good, and you also get the rads to use clean air, which is even better. Win-win.
c) Move the case while running the pump (pump only, nothing else) so that the trapped air can get out somehow. It will be a pita because you have the rads as the highest spot, but it is doable.

A: It's actually coming from a RAD Out, but yes, it's in the right hole.
B. Since they're on top, i'd rather have them blowing out hot air (since it rises). But I will add some more AP-15's inside the case for airflow.
C. That helped get a lot of air out. I doubt there is still any left in the tubes now. Great suggestion! I had the case on it's side, tilted up, down, almost every direction. Even shook it a bit.

I just relapped my CPU and applied fresh thermal paste. My Idles have gone way down (into the 35-39*c range)!! But load is still maxing out 98*c. For some reason, the heat doesn't seem to be getting out of the loop. Should I invest in a second pump for better flow?
 
With the rads and pump you have your temps should not be getting anywhere near 90C and you certainly should not be jumping from 35ishc to 90c+. Can you post a pick of your res with the pc running? You must have a restriction or blockage somewhere.

I'm running a GTX 480 and a i7 920 @ 4 GHZ and I barley break 50c under heavy load, with an old decrepit DDC-2 18W (brown impeller) pump, single 360 rad and my fans at 8v.

I would try and tip the case pretty drastically forward to make sure that you are flushing the air out of the rads. I have near the same set up, with the 360 on top and the res/pump sitting below it and you do have to work a bit to get the air out of the rads. However, even with a bunch of air in the rads you should be getting better temps.

You can also turn on the system and start squeezing tubing, is there a tube that is significantly “stiffer” then the rest? That may give you an idea where the restriction is.
 
With the rads and pump you have your temps should not be getting anywhere near 90C and you certainly should not be jumping from 35ishc to 90c+. Can you post a pick of your res with the pc running? You must have a restriction or blockage somewhere.

I'm running a GTX 480 and a i7 920 @ 4 GHZ and I barley break 50c under heavy load, with an old decrepit DDC-2 18W (brown impeller) pump, single 360 rad and my fans at 8v.

I would try and tip the case pretty drastically forward to make sure that you are flushing the air out of the rads. I have near the same set up, with the 360 on top and the res/pump sitting below it and you do have to work a bit to get the air out of the rads. However, even with a bunch of air in the rads you should be getting better temps.

You can also turn on the system and start squeezing tubing, is there a tube that is significantly “stiffer” then the rest? That may give you an idea where the restriction is.

I've had this case tilted every which way. The stiffest tube I have is the inlet into the CPU. I think the above posters theory of a bad waterblock (or it's not making good contact with my CPU)
 
But it also appears that your video card is running hotter than it should, your CPU block having bad contact would not account for that.

I would pull your cpu block and take it apart, see if there is some obstruction there (or worse case it was poorly machined).
 
But it also appears that your video card is running hotter than it should, your CPU block having bad contact would not account for that.

I would pull your cpu block and take it apart, see if there is some obstruction there (or worse case it was poorly machined).

The second GTX (that's hot) is under AIR. I haven't ordered a waterblock for it yet. But I'll remove it and double check that's the one that's hot.
 
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