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Discussion in 'Water Cooling' started by ShadeZeRO, May 2, 2012.
The first GTX should be running cooler than that under water, though...
I'm going to go and pick up a new pump if i can tomorrow.
Get a flow meter too
Looks like I'll have to order online. Any recommendations on a pump? Should I get another MCP655 or is there anything better on the market now?
The 655 is a solid choice.
I have a new pump, but I think I see part of the issue.
There is no flow coming OUT of my CPU block. The flow going in is tight, but coming out, i can squeeze the tubing flat easily.
Update: Tried moving my case in every direction. Used my AC->Molex adapter to get power to the pump while everything was off. Got a few air bubbles out, but nothing major. Tried various pump speeds (the speeds ARE changing, i can feel it).
Update 2: My CPU is now idling at 75*c... I had it down to the 50's but now it shot back up. Case airflow is now FANTASTIC. Added 2 AP121's blowing on the HDD (pump side), two Scythe S-Flex SFF21E (also have 2 slip streams on order).
Getting really desperate, I might even go back to air cooling.
I think it sbeen suggested that you check the internals of your block. EKs plating is shit.
Yep, block is choked. Need to open it up, take pics, tell EK to go fuck themselves.
There is obviously something FUBAR'd in your block.
Please buy a Heatkiller........http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hecpureforso.html
The water flows out so fast it will knock a hole in whatever is downstream.....
this guy is gonna finally open up his blocks, find the problem, and be blown away by his now retardedly over powered loop and do the happy dance for an hour.
Either that or he's going to get fed up and post his whole loop up for sale... How much you want for it all?
do you guys think this might be the cause? I was actually afraid of taking apart my block, didn't want to mess it up lol.
1. Removed the clog, filled loop, flow is FANTASTIC
2. After reseating the block, I have a CPU_LED light on, and 00 on the Q-Code. No bent pins, looking for the cause of the short.
3. Now it's just turning off immediately after I hit the power button -_-
did you re-leak test your loop?
Maybe your CPU block is fastened down too much. check that the backplate isn't touching a solder point on the underneath side of the MB.
I'd reseat the block since it was the only thing you removed.
Man that was a sad looking block....what the hell was in your water? The nickle on the inside looks really shitty........EK was having a real time with that about a year back.
Update, Upon further inspection there ARE bent pins. I have no idea how that happened given I never took out the CPU....
I'll settle this problem tomorrow. Anyone have any good tips on how to fix it?
fixing bent pins isn't easy, if you're sure you are going to do it get a threading needle and magnifying glass, that's my advice
The pins were probably damaged when you reapplied the heatsink.
You'll have to carefully straighten them with a jewlery screwdriver and a big-assed magnifying glass.
Also, given the amount of gunk in that loop, I'd seize the opportunity to clean out the pump, reservoir, and any other blocks, plus toss your tubing and install new tubes.
Your board may be FUBAR'd too, so while you are waiting on a new one.....clean that gunk up.
That looks like calcium build up were you using tap water? If you did I'd flush your system with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water. You'll have calcium build up everywhere.
that and use a good algaecide this time.....like a silver coil or PT Nuke. That white stuff in the center looks organic.
Aw man, a clogged EK Block sucks, but it was bound to happen.
Ain't nobody got time for bent pins though.
Not the first time I've had to fix bent pints. I'll work on it later after I get home. Good idea on the flush.
I used zephyrhills distilled water (i'm not sure if brand matters, but I made sure it was distilled).
Funny thing is, I had a silver coil in it, but it was at the top of my res. I moved it down into the tubing for effectiveness.
Sweet Mother of God. Have you figured out what that gunk is? That's ridiculous!
I hate the fact that I have a nickel plated EK block in my loop for my GPU. Fortunately its the clear acrylic version so I keep an eye on my block like a hawk. I have a very expensive loop that I dont want to ruin.
As soon as I can afford it, and find a block will asthetically match my system, I will change it. Ive seen too much weirdness from EK to let their reputation take down any other parts in my loop.
For the record, I had 0 issues with my copper/acetal block from EK, and so far 0 issues from my nickel block, however it seems as though it will be inevidable.
The EK nickle blocks were ok up to some point, I don't know when that point is though. I know the "older" blocks did not have an issue, however at some point they changed their process and started to half-ass the plating. I've seen two of these blocks, one of the ones from when they first started releasing them that has no problems and one from about a year later that looks exactly the same but looks like someone sand blasted the plating out of the GPU area inside the block.
You may very well be fine. Their reputation however is fucked due to their idiotic reactions to the flaking issue. Had they just manned up and fixed, or hell even acknowledged the issue it may have been a whole different story. The screwed up thing is that they make good blocks.
I know this is off-topic, but I wanted to share some of my own personal experience with the new EK Electroless Nickel Plating GPU Blocks, Mine is the FC-7970 Acetal+Nickel
EDIT: Image removed as it wasn't an accurate representation, new images 3 posts below
Distilled + 2 Silver Kill Coils, only Phobya, XSPC, Monsoon, Bitspower, and Koolance fittings (No aluminum fittings/radiators/blocks in my loop)
fuckin wow, 7970? Not a 4870??? just wow...
FC-7970, its brand new
EK is just fucking themselves royally, that block looks like a baboon's ass.
I busted out the lemon juice and isopropyl to see if it would clean up any, and a lot of that shit did wipe off but I don't think it was any type of algae because I've been running Kill Coils (I mentioned that I had 1 Kill Coil, but I'm running two ...I had forgotten about the second one that I bought when I got the GPU block)
Anyway, here are some shots of the actual copper showing through the nickel after cleaning it again
Can you fix your pics? Id really like to see this.
Interesting, copying and pasting the link works fine, but
Man... its a damn shame. I really thought that they would have gotten their act together since 2010 when this was the norm on their nickle plated products. I will be buying a Nickel/Black Hole Edition Heatkiller block for my 680 TODAY... I will not give EK the opportunity to ruin my pump or any other items in my loop with their substandard plating.
Christ, not only the plating, look at the milling! The banding across the top of the block is AWFUL. I'd be ashamed to put my name on that shit.
See, they still dont work
That's just horrible. Maybe in 6 months when I have a little more cash I'll swap out blocks.
Right now, looks like the damage to the pins is way too much. I'll just pick up a new Z77 board.
I'm thinking EVGA FTW or ASUS Maximus Formula.
Edit: The fittings on the Formula looked way to restrictive and are not changeable (plus it's not in stock). Ordered the FTW overnight, I'll get it tomorrow!!
Really? They're showing up correctly for me.
I got no peeeectures,senor.
I noticed on a recent build that we were having flow problems with ek blocks (customers req.).
This was using all G1/4" fitings/ 1/2" tubing and dual mcp655's with dual 560mm rads.
When I did a complete teardown I discovered that the barb fitting threads were protruding about 1/8" into the blocks when tightened down, leaving very little room for the water to pass.
Turns out that 4 spacers (1/4" BSPP Sized Spacer 2 Pack - Silver Nickel) example : http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/14Inch-BSPP-Sized-Spacer-2-Pack-Silver-Nickel_634.html, or http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cat/c749_Spacers.html
made a world of difference. I disassembled the cpu block looking for debris in the fins when I discovered this. From 150lph to 450lph using the flowmeter in the loop. Made a huge temperature difference. I had to install the spacers on both the cpu and gpu blocks.
A $10 fix may solve most of your issues besides the growth in your loop.
Would these 3mm ones work? Comes in a pack of 4
I'm in the USA, so would be nice to find something local.
Edit: I can see 5 pictures above, that just looks HORRID!
Update: My EVGA FTW Z77 is here!!!!