Looking for build advice :)

You're running a 24" display and a singe slot motherboard, so you're going to want the biggest baddest single card you can get (within reason). That's the 8800 GTX or Radeon HS 3870X2. That said, if those are outside the budget the 8800 GTS 512MB (G92) is nearly as fast as the GTX.
 
You're running a 24" display and a singe slot motherboard, so you're going to want the biggest baddest single card you can get (within reason). That's the 8800 GTX or Radeon HS 3870X2. That said, if those are outside the budget the 8800 GTS 512MB (G92) is nearly as fast as the GTX.

Awesome! Getting the cheaper DVD drive should allow me to be able to get the GTX! I'm about to look it up right now. So you would say that the 8800 GTX is the best I can get right now (The Radeon too, but I want to stick with the GeForce cards for now)? Just one, not two- Not that I could afford two I'm sure heh.
 
Single card, for 1920x1200? Yeah. The Ultra isn't worth the price premium over a GTX. Pick up an EVGA card so you can use the Step-Up program and get one of the new 9 series high end cards within 90 days if you decide the 8800 GTX isn't enough.
 
Single card, for 1920x1200? Yeah. The Ultra isn't worth the price premium over a GTX. Pick up an EVGA card so you can use the Step-Up program and get one of the new 9 series high end cards within 90 days if you decide the 8800 GTX isn't enough.

EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - $414.99
That one?

And how does the Step-Up program work exactly? I can buy it through NewEgg or any other site, and then how does it work? Sorry for all the questions, I'm really a noob ;)

Edit: EVGA 768-P2-N835-AR GeForce 8800GTX Superclocked 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
What is the difference between those two cards? The 'Superclocked' one is $30 more.
 
You buy it through wherever, you keep the original invoice (scan it or copy it and keep it somewhere safe just in case -- I put my receipts in the original boxes then put them up in the attic so they can't get lost). Register the card within 30 days of purchase! Cannot stress this enough. You /must/ do this or you don't get lifetime warranty and can't Step-Up either.

When the new card comes out you go the EVGA's site and start a Step-Up request. You have to pay the difference between what you paid for your card (say $414 for the 8800 GTX) and the new card (say $600 for the 9800GX2, just guessing.). You use the form and fill it out, they charge you the difference ($186 in my exampe) and tell you were to send the old card. You get the new card in the mail. That's it.

The "Superclocked" card has a factory OC. The thing is, EVGA warranties OCing via software, so you can normally just OC the "vanilla" card to "Superclocked" speeds yourself, and save the $30. Of course, your card may not be able to run at "superclocked" speeds with the stock heatsink and fan, but it's not that great a loss. Performance difference is pretty minimal.
 
You buy it through wherever, you keep the original invoice (scan it or copy it and keep it somewhere safe just in case -- I put my receipts in the original boxes then put them up in the attic so they can't get lost). Register the card within 30 days of purchase! Cannot stress this enough. You /must/ do this or you don't get lifetime warranty and can't Step-Up either.

When the new card comes out you go the EVGA's site and start a Step-Up request. You have to pay the difference between what you paid for your card (say $414 for the 8800 GTX) and the new card (say $600 for the 9800GX2, just guessing.). You use the form and fill it out, they charge you the difference ($186 in my exampe) and tell you were to send the old card. You get the new card in the mail. That's it.

The "Superclocked" card has a factory OC. The thing is, EVGA warranties OCing via software, so you can normally just OC the "vanilla" card to "Superclocked" speeds yourself, and save the $30. Of course, your card may not be able to run at "superclocked" speeds with the stock heatsink and fan, but it's not that great a loss. Performance difference is pretty minimal.

Oh wow thanks :) I'm definitely goign to do the Step-Up thing for sure!

So my PSU should still be good for the build I have, and the GTX?
 
Oh wow thanks :) I'm definitely goign to do the Step-Up thing for sure!

So my PSU should still be good for the build I have, and the GTX?

Yeah, a 620HX will handle just about any single card setup with ease. Nothing to worry about there.
 
Thanks so much SC :)

I want to know if this is okay to do.. I want to be able to keep posting here, kinda to update on what's going on.. Ask for more advice about if I want to change something, and then to post the completed PC. Instead of having to make new posts all the time for the next two weeks.. Could I just stick to posting in here and asking questions, etc? :)

I'm sure I'll be having more questions ;)
 
Yeah, that's how most do it. Also, check out the monitor deal I posted above. Very nice panel, wish it'd been on sale a couple months ago when I picked up my Soyo.
 
Yeah, that's how most do it. Also, check out the monitor deal I posted above. Very nice panel, wish it'd been on sale a couple months ago when I picked up my Soyo.


Oh wow, that would be a great deal. Best Buy is a bit far from here.. (I can't drive, I was hurt at work and am now permanently disabled two years ago).. The money I actually am using on my PC is from FINALLY getting money from Workers Comp after two years of being quite poor ;) But I'm sure I can find someone to try and bring me sometime this week to check. Or maybe I can call and ask before I go in actually. Hmm.

Also I can't find Arctic Silver MX2 on any of the stores sites I am ordering from.. I found them on ANOTHER site which wanted about $10 in shipping just for that item.. so it would cost $15 lol. Should I just stick with the other one instead?
 
Awesome! Getting the cheaper DVD drive should allow me to be able to get the GTX! I'm about to look it up right now. So you would say that the 8800 GTX is the best I can get right now (The Radeon too, but I want to stick with the GeForce cards for now)? Just one, not two- Not that I could afford two I'm sure heh.

you do not want the GTX. Get a GTS512mb which will perform at worst 10% slower and save you $200.

or, the EVGA B-stock sale is pretty epic, as usual.
 
you do not want the GTX. Get a GTS512mb which will perform at worst 10% slower and save you $200.

or, the EVGA B-stock sale is pretty epic, as usual.

The 8800GTS 512MB is a $260+ card, not a $200 card, and considering he's planning to use Step-Up on it, and we pretty much know that anything worthwhile coming out soon will be at $500 MSRP or higher, it's just a question of when he spends the money, more than if.
 
AS5 is good, though I generally prefer MX2 or Ceramique as they're non-conductive. Just don't get the AS5 all over everything (only need to use a little bit so it shouldn't be a problem) and you're fine.
 
AS5 is good, though I generally prefer MX2 or Ceramique as they're non-conductive. Just don't get the AS5 all over everything (only need to use a little bit so it shouldn't be a problem) and you're fine.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100012
Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound - Retail

So, this one would be better then? It's a little more expensive, not by much, but if it's better I will get this instead.

Edit: I actually guess I'll with Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100009
 
Looking for a little more advice, don't want to start a new thread and clog up the board ;)

I was thinking of getting a flash drive.. Do these make building and setting up your computer any easier? Like for instance, downloading the drivers, etc from my other computer and then using the flash drive to transfer them to the new one? Flash drives ARE pretty convenient, so I will buy one regardless.. I'm thinking of going with the CORSAIR Flash Voyager 2GB Flash Drive (USB2.0 Portable) Model CMFUSB2.0-2GB - $14.99.

Also... reading about people being scared about static has scared me heh. I'm disabled and it's hard for me to move around or move heavy things around. I was going to build my computer in my bedroom where my other computer is, to make it easier. I have carpeted floors though. If I.. uh.. don't wear socks, and keep the computer parts on a table to build, would that help? It might be kind of rare to zap your parts, but I'm a very unlucky person.. I can see that happening to me somehow ;)

One more question... I'm an online gamer, does that mean I should buy a separate network card, or just use the one it already comes with? If I should use a card... can anyone recommend a good one to use? :)

Check was deposited today, and will clear in 7 days! So next Tuesday I shall be ordering all of my parts, I am so excited :) I've been looking through a lot of 'building guides'.. is there one that you think is perfect for the first time user? I've already looked at a few on the sticky thread on this forum.. but if you have any more sites or tips, they will be very appreciated!
 
If you're concerned about static, don't wear socks and shoes while you build, build on a table and don't shuffle around a bunch. Another good thing to do would be installing the PSU in the case first, then plugging it in to the wall (turned off, not plugged in to any of the internal components until after everything is in the case). This will ground the case, so as long as you touch it occasionally you will be fine.

Yeah, that $15 2GB drive is fine, and it does make setting up (moving drivers, etc, as you said) a good bit easier. You can also make it bootable (I'll try to track down the utility I used for this, simplified things a lot) and use it to update your motherboard's BIOS instead of a floppy drive or having to burn a CDR. I'd pick up a 4GB for ~$2 more though, or a cheaper 2GB.
 
If you're concerned about static, don't wear socks and shoes while you build, build on a table and don't shuffle around a bunch. Another good thing to do would be installing the PSU in the case first, then plugging it in to the wall (turned off, not plugged in to any of the internal components until after everything is in the case). This will ground the case, so as long as you touch it occasionally you will be fine.

Yeah, that $15 2GB drive is fine, and it does make setting up (moving drivers, etc, as you said) a good bit easier. You can also make it bootable (I'll try to track down the utility I used for this, simplified things a lot) and use it to update your motherboard's BIOS instead of a floppy drive or having to burn a CDR.

Oh that would be helpful, as I'm not buying a floppy drive.. I haven't touched that drive in years so I figured I probably don't need one on here actually.

Also.. do I need to buy a separate heatsink? I'm confused.. The mobo comes with a heatsink, or is it the processor? Is the one that comes with it not great? I already am getting the ZeroTherm Nirvana fan... but do I need to purchase a new heatsink also?
 
Oh that would be helpful, as I'm not buying a floppy drive.. I haven't touched that drive in years so I figured I probably don't need one on here actually.

Edited my above post. $17 gets you a 4GB drive, $10 gets you a 2GB -- pay a little less or pay a little more, unless you just like the look for the Corsair stick. ;)
 
Edited my above post. $17 gets you a 4GB drive, $10 gets you a 2GB -- pay a little less or pay a little more, unless you just like the look for the Corsair stick. ;)

Haha I think I'll get the 4GB then :) Thanks.

I edited my post also.. to ask about heatsinks.. I'm utterly confused about them heh.
 
Also.. do I need to buy a separate heatsink? I'm confused.. The mobo comes with a heatsink, or is it the processor? Is the one that comes with it not great? I already am getting the ZeroTherm Nirvana fan... but do I need to purchase a new heatsink also?

If you get a retail processor (which you likely are getting) it comes with a heatsink and fan, but it is not very good and can be loud. The ZeroTherm Nirvana is a heatsink and fan combination. If you get it you will not need anything else.
 
If you get a retail processor (which you likely are getting) it comes with a heatsink and fan, but it is not very good and can be loud. The ZeroTherm Nirvana is a heatsink and fan combination. If you get it you will not need anything else.

Oh good to know! :)

This is getting scarier and scarier to imagine myself building.. But hey.. Everyone started at the bottom, so I'm sure I can do it!
 
You will be fine. Fit the square pegs in the square holes and don't try to force anything, pretty much, and it'll go smooth. Just take your time with it.
 
You will be fine. Fit the square pegs in the square holes and don't try to force anything, pretty much, and it'll go smooth. Just take your time with it.

Awesome :) And I will be sure to come here with any problems I have.. so you can look forward to it ;) Thank goodness I have this computer to work on while building the other.

I've heard a lot of negative things from many people on the internet about me building a computer of my own.. being a girl and all. Honestly, that should make no difference ;) I think I can do it regardless of my chromosomes heh.
 
This is a hell of a deal if you can get a hold of this. This is comparable in features to my Gateway FPD2485W LCD I paid over $600 a while back. If you can get this LG 24" you're lucky. The Samsung 245T LCD is good. But, if you can get another 24" that's comparable for half the cost that would be even better.

If you live near a Circuit City run out and see if they have this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005099&Tpk=l246wp
for $270 something on clearance. That'd free you up some serious cash.
 
This is a hell of a deal if you can get a hold of this. This is comparable in features to my Gateway FPD2485W LCD I paid over $600 a while back. If you can get this LG 24" you're lucky. The Samsung 245T LCD is good. But, if you can get another 24" that's comparable for half the cost that would be even better.

Yeah I'm reeeally hoping that I can get a ride to a Circuit City around here.. Geez I don't even know where there is one. I wish I could drive, so I could just bring myself.. But.. stupid feet are messed up, so no driving for me!

But that really is an incredible deal and I will be pleased if I can get one of them for that price :)
 
Ah duh.. one more easy question for you all ;)

I need to buy a new surge protector also.. The one I have is really old and FILLED with dust (As is my computer... Stupid parrots and cats. I will be keeping my new PC immaculate from the get-go though).. What is really good, but not TOO expensive surge protector that will serve me well with the new machine?
 
Get a surge protector with high Joule ratings. The higher the joules the better the protection. Some sell at a pretty decent price. Some surge protectors you will find offer 4,000+ joules.
 
Get a surge protector with high Joule ratings. The higher the joules the better the protection. Some sell at a pretty decent price. Some surge protectors you will find offer 4,000+ joules.

BELKIN BE112234-10 10 feet 12 Outlets 4120 joule Surge Suppressor with Phone/Modem, RJ45 and Coax Protection - OEM
This has over 4000 joules and is just $34.99. I can afford that, is it worth it?
 
Girl, guy, doesn't matter... though as a girl you definitely get more props upon successful completion, and around here, maybe a few marriage offers. ;)

A bit off topic, but looking at USB flash memory prices it struck me (as it occasionally tends to) just how far we've gone in the past few years; I think it was in 1997 that I got a Dell XPS200 (200Mhz Pentium Pro, 128MB of RAM, Soundblaster AWE32 - the thing was blazing fast for the time, last machine I ever bought without building myself, but solid. Even the case was pretty good. Dell has gone down-hill.) and it came with either a 1 GB or 2 GB hard drive and I thought that thing was massive (our last computer before that was a Macintosh LCIIx with a 65 MB internal hard drive and a 150 MB external. ;)). Now we're up to 2TB single drives, 500GB and 750GB drives are down to $0.20 a GB.. and you can pick up a 1GB no name USB flash drive for like.. $0.65. That's crazy.
 
Girl, guy, doesn't matter... though as a girl you definitely get more props upon successful completion, and around here, maybe a few marriage offers. ;)

A bit off topic, but looking at USB flash memory prices it struck me (as it occasionally tends to) just how far we've gone in the past few years; I think it was in 1997 that I got a Dell XPS200 (200Mhz Pentium Pro, 128MB of RAM, Soundblaster AWE32 - the thing was blazing fast for the time, last machine I ever bought without building myself, but solid. Even the case was pretty good. Dell has gone down-hill.) and it came with either a 1 GB or 2 GB hard drive and I thought that thing was massive (our last computer before that was a Macintosh LCIIx with a 65 MB internal hard drive and a 150 MB external. ;)). Now we're up to 2TB single drives, 500GB and 750GB drives are down to $0.20 a GB.. and you can pick up a 1GB no name USB flash drive for like.. $0.65. That's crazy.

Marriage proposals? Sounds good ;) I've never dated anyone who was into computers/technology at all. I've always been the 'geeky' one. Would love to meet someone eventually with my love for computers!

I remember the first computer I ever got.. My fathers friend worked on computers for a living and he sold us for $200 my first computer. Ahh... 16MB RAM... 233mhz... 125MB HDD... and a 14.4k modem :D:D And yeah, I remember it being the FASTEST thing ever, at the time! I was only 10, but I loved that computer so much.. and learned so much about them each time we upgraded to a new one.

It really is crazy how technology has advanced.. I mean.. 10 years ago, who would have thought we'd be able to have 2TB HDD!? Or 8GB or RAM?! Crazy!
 
We should've been at 10Ghz Pentium4's by now!

Anyhow, don't forget to post pics. ;) and yes, I do mean pics of the computer!
 
We should've been at 10Ghz Pentium4's by now!

Anyhow, don't forget to post pics. ;) and yes, I do mean pics of the computer!

Yeah I mean... My 5 year old Dell is 2.53GHz, you'd think we'd be at at least 10GHz by now, right? ;P

Haha. I will be posting plenty of pictures of the computer ;) I would post a picture of myself but it's not nice to be thought of as an attention-whore on the internet ;) Let's just say that I may be taller than more than half of you guys on here ;) I'm 6'1"... and I feel like I tower over everyone haha.
 
The DS3L does not belong in a $2500 build. At least pick up the MSI P35 Neo2-FR, Gigabyte DS3R, DS4, DQ6, Abit IP35-Pro, or DFI LanParty Dark P35-TR2S.

Which, of the ones you listed, do you think is best?

I'd say the Gigabyte DS3R and Abit IP35-Pro are the most popular P35 boards here at the moment (they're pretty much interchangable so far as featureset Gigabyte's DS4 and DQ6 boards have better onboard cooling, so they may overclock better than the DS3R or IP35-Pro.

I'm no expert but I do not see why a DS3L does not belong. It'd a great board and has all the requirements to handle the OP's planed components. The DS3R board supports RAID. That's about the only difference, and if you don't plan to run a RAID configuration it's a waste of money to pay more for the R board.

As far as the Abit IP35 Pro, Again the DS3L is just as good if not better according to THIS REVIEW. So while certain features may be more desirable to others, such as RAID or two PCI Express x16 slots, I don't see the DS3L as "does not belong" if you're building a non-RAID configuration, single GPU with a Q6600 CPU. In fact I think the DS3L is a fine choice for such a rig.

Of course that's just an opinion and YMMV. But I think money could be better spent elsewhere rather than getting a mobo witha lot of extra features you don't plan to utilize.
 
:( So many different opinions, heh. I'll have to look into that and think about the DS3L. As for now.. My entire build now looks like so:

16 Items Total
Thermaltake Armor Series VA8000BWS Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - $149.99 -$20 MIR
GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3R LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Dynamic Energy Saver Ultra Durable II Intel Motherboard - $121.99
CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply - $138.90 (( ZipZoomFly )) -$25 MIR
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz 775 Quad-Core Processor - $254.99 (( Clubit.com ))
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit - $84.99
EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - $414.99 -$50 MIR
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - $80.99
SAMSUNG 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S203N - $29.99
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer 7.1 Channels - $90.99
Logitech Z-5500 505 Watts 5.1 Speakers - $229.99 (( ClubIt.com )) -$40 MIR
ZEROtherm Nirvana NV120 120mm 2-ball UFO Bearing / Transparent CPU Cooler - $45.99 -$10 MIR
SAMSUNG 24ST-BLACK Black 24" 6ms HDMI Widescreen HSMI LCD Monitor - $659.99
Microsoft Windows Vista 64-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - $109.99
CORSAIR Flash Voyager 2GB Flash Drive (USB2.0 Portable) Model CMFUSB2.0-2GB - $14.99
Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound - $4.99
BELKIN BE112234-10 10 feet 12 Outlets 4120 joule Surge Suppressor with Phone/Modem, RJ45 and Coax Protection - $34.99

Store Totals
NewEgg: $1853.87 (13 items)
ZipZoomFly: $138.90 (1 item)
Clubit: $484.98 (2 items)
Total: $2477.75

Shipping
NewEgg: $39.43
ZipZoomFly: $0.00
Clubit: $4.99

Entire Total: $2522.17

Mail-In Rebates Total: $105


A few things that were cheaper on other sites now went to their regular price, so I'm getting them from NewEgg. I also did the math, and for some of the items that are a bit cheaper elsewhere, the shipping cost actually makes it MORE expensive. So right now, after shopping around, this is the cheapest I've seen so far overall :) Just one week until I can order it! Then I guess about 3-5 days to get the parts.. I am so excited, and nervous.. but more excited! :)
 
Again, I'd strongly recommend seeing if they have the 24" LG panel on clearance at your local Circuit City or not. $270-something for that would be a steal, and drop your total cost by more than $300.
 
Again, I'd strongly recommend seeing if they have the 24" LG panel on clearance at your local Circuit City or not. $270-something for that would be a steal, and drop your total cost by more than $300.

Yeah I just asked my father if he could bring me, there are 2 stores not too far from here, sometime this week. As long as he doesn't get sick.. I have this horrid cold, and I think I may have given it to him.. Oops :)

But if I find that monitor I will DEFINITELY be getting it. I wonder what I could then use that $300 to upgrade more ;)
 
:( So many different opinions, heh. I'll have to look into that and think about the DS3L. As for now.. My entire build now looks like so:

GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3R LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Dynamic Energy Saver Ultra Durable II Intel Motherboard - $121.99

Why spend over $30 more for the DS3R if you're not planning on running a RAID configuration? RAID is great for servers and such but has no advantage in gaming rigs (lets not get started on a RAID debate).

You can certainly buy what ever board you like and get one that does everything. But if you don't utilize those features then it's really extra money spent for nothing.
 
Why spend over $30 more for the DS3R if you're not planning on running a RAID configuration? RAID is great for servers and such but has no advantage in gaming rigs (lets not get started on a RAID debate).

You can certainly buy what ever board you like and get one that does everything. But if you don't utilize those features then it's really extra money spent for nothing.

The DS3R also has better stock cooling than the DS3L, hence the recommendation. That's also the reason I recommend the MSI Neo2-FR. Very similar boards, don't cost that much more, better cooling. I agree the DS3L and IP35-E were good deals at $60, but they're a joke at $90. The DS3R she's looking at is also a newer revision than the DS3L would be, hence the Energy Saver stuff.
 
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