LG's 2016 OLED series (E6,B6,G6,C6)

tunatime said:
How do you test the input lag? I played a few hours of fallout 4 and it felt the same as my old g10 plasma but looked 10x as good also how do you get into pc mode?
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You get the tv in pc mode by selecting the inputs button on the controller and then choosing the PC icon. Then you will want to change the picture to Game.

let us know if you can feel a difference.

Testing lag at 4k is tricky, the only option right now is to use a highspeed camera and compare to a crt or monitor that has a known input lag. Problem is dealing with different resolutions.
 
tunatime said:
How do you test the input lag? I played a few hours of fallout 4 and it felt the same as my old g10 plasma but looked 10x as good also how do you get into pc mode?
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You can use this, but if you want to know what the exact lag is you have to know already what the input lag is on one of your displays. Without that this test will just let you know if it's slower or faster than the other.

:: Online Monitor test - Your free online TV and monitor test tool - By vanity.dk and flatpanels.dk

Directions are on the bottom-right.
 
coolhandm3 said:
You get the tv in pc mode by selecting the inputs button on the controller and then choosing the PC icon. Then you will want to change the picture to Game.

let us know if you can feel a difference.

Testing lag at 4k is tricky, the only option right now is to use a highspeed camera and compare to a crt or monitor that has a known input lag. Problem is dealing with different resolutions.
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I do not feel a difference between PC mode or not and tried a few fps poe and have 0 issues other then i keep looking at how amzzing the pq is and forgetting to play the game lol. Il try a test with vsync on to see what hapens. I wonder if the lag peple get on consoles is becuese its not a 4k feed and it has to scale it?
 
Got the 55" OLED set up as a monitor

yfMWv6t.jpg


6PbeVLF.jpg


V2OMjYl.jpg


3fKsDB5.jpg


Used a VESA adapater from Amazon+Monoprice monitor arm to mount on my desk with out the stand
Distance from eyes is about 28" lol
 
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Martha Stewart said:
Got the 55" OLED set up as a monitor

yfMWv6t.jpg


6PbeVLF.jpg


V2OMjYl.jpg


3fKsDB5.jpg


Used a VESA adapater from Amazon+Monoprice monitor arm to mount on my desk with out the stand
Distance from eyes is about 28" lol
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Holy stiff neck batman! You must get head or eye aches from having that big "monitor" at mere arms lenght since you have to constantly move your head around. You do deserve some extra [H] points though, that is one bad set up. Games must look real good. :)
 
How's the quality control on these? Better or worse than say the Acer Predator or Asus ROG series?

My concern is spending a fortune on one of these and getting dead pixels or other screen defects. Returning a 55" TV isn't going to be easy... And I'm sure retailers will get pissed off quick if you attempt multiple exchanges in order to get a perfect panel to satisfy your OCD.
 
jaguax said:
How's the quality control on these? Better or worse than say the Acer Predator or Asus ROG series?

My concern is spending a fortune on one of these and getting dead pixels or other screen defects. Returning a 55" TV isn't going to be easy... And I'm sure retailers will get pissed off quick if you attempt multiple exchanges in order to get a perfect panel to satisfy your OCD.
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Different animal than "gaming monitors"

OLED's don't have many of the issues LCD's have so generally speaking you should be fine. This is my 2nd OLED (we have one in the living room too) and we have zero issues.....
 
Martha Stewart said:
Got the 55" OLED set up as a monitor

yfMWv6t.jpg


6PbeVLF.jpg


V2OMjYl.jpg


3fKsDB5.jpg


Used a VESA adapater from Amazon+Monoprice monitor arm to mount on my desk with out the stand
Distance from eyes is about 28" lol
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Just wow! Some seriously sweet eye candy there.

How is it for gaming compared to your 48" Sammy?
 
^ Even from the picture alone (last one) I can sense that superb contrast/colors right there. :p 55" would be way too large for me not to mention the input lag would probably become bothersome to me that plays a bit more seriously some FPS games as I start have issues with roughly around 25 ms or so or higher. My Sony 32" VA TV only has like 7~8 ms input lag and actually I can feel it's lower than the 12 ms of my monitor so yea I'm quite sensitive to that.
 
Skott said:
Just wow! Some seriously sweet eye candy there.

How is it for gaming compared to your 48" Sammy?
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Too big lol. Honestly the 48" is THE perfect size for a monitor. If they made a 48" OLED I would buy one in a heart beat.

RPGWiZaRD said:
^ Even from the picture alone (last one) I can sense that superb contrast/colors right there. :p 55" would be way too large for me not to mention the input lag would probably become bothersome to me that plays a bit more seriously some FPS games as I start have issues with roughly around 25 ms or so or higher. My Sony 32" VA TV only has like 7~8 ms input lag and actually I can feel it's lower than the 12 ms of my monitor so yea I'm quite sensitive to that.
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Lag isn't noticeable but I am not sensitive to it. I actually use an Asus PG279Q 165hz monitor for FPS & action games as the OLED doesn't come close to the speed and responsiveness of a 144hz IPS
 
jaguax said:
How's the quality control on these? Better or worse than say the Acer Predator or Asus ROG series?

My concern is spending a fortune on one of these and getting dead pixels or other screen defects. Returning a 55" TV isn't going to be easy... And I'm sure retailers will get pissed off quick if you attempt multiple exchanges in order to get a perfect panel to satisfy your OCD.
Click to expand...

The two OLEDs I've purchased (EC9300 and now C6) have had no major defects. No dead pixels. They do exist with OLED, but not too many people seem to get them.

The EC9300 had minor banding visible on solid grey backgrounds, though generally not noticeable in most content. My C6 seems completely perfect in this regard, I haven't noticed a single flaw on it. I am pretty picky having returned multiple gaming monitors due to their bad QC as well...
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
If you're a person that always watches TV with lights on in the room, is OLED even necessary? Some people in my family have asked me about OLED, and I've told them it's awesome. But I'm wondering if it's even possible to notice the deeper blacks and contrast when you have 3 lamps on in the room
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Pretty sure it's noticeable. It's not like CRT where you pretty much need to be in a light-controlled room to really see its advantages. OLED doesn't have the stupid phosphor color to contend with.
 
Martha Stewart said:
Got the 55" OLED set up as a monitor

yfMWv6t.jpg


6PbeVLF.jpg


V2OMjYl.jpg


3fKsDB5.jpg


Used a VESA adapater from Amazon+Monoprice monitor arm to mount on my desk with out the stand
Distance from eyes is about 28" lol
Click to expand...

How did you mount it to your desk? I have the 55 flat and i like how it looks without the stand. Do you have links to what you uesed?
 
jaguax said:
How's the quality control on these? Better or worse than say the Acer Predator or Asus ROG series?

My concern is spending a fortune on one of these and getting dead pixels or other screen defects. Returning a 55" TV isn't going to be easy... And I'm sure retailers will get pissed off quick if you attempt multiple exchanges in order to get a perfect panel to satisfy your OCD.
Click to expand...

I ordered from Amazon and got two defective panels in a row. I decided to just refund and after browsing AVSForums, ended up purchasing a new e6 through Value Electronics, as you can also pay a small fee for quality control check & calibration (they check for dead pixels, etc. and it won't pass if even one is found). They turned out also to be local (but they are willing to ship) and also, even with the fee, it was cheaper than Amazon for me.

It's a great picture, albeit it doesn't have perfect viewing angles. (It tends to shift green when viewing at an angle). As for light, I have no issues, but at night, you want light sources above it, or behind it, as it can turn into a mirror if improperly placed. Also, I'd avoid getting the 2015 model, even if cheaper. The 2016 model fixes a lot of issues (such as edges) that existed in the older models.
 
tunatime said:
How did you mount it to your desk? I have the 55 flat and i like how it looks without the stand. Do you have links to what you uesed?
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pick up a VESA adapter from Amazon and a Monoprice monitor arm. That set up is enough to keep the monitor mounted flush with desk

what my set up looked like
(This is from my 48" js9000 but exact same configuration)

back-




 
WetMacula said:
HTPC 2016 (once you go black...)
photos of my 65E HTPC
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What a great link. Fantastic photos and information. So good that after some researching I've doing and seeing these photos and the info within I'm sold and going to buy an OLED tv. I'm not sure if the extra money you pay for the E series in comparison to the less expenside B series, apart from 3D and the speakers, is worth it picture quality wise but the important decision: buying a OLED tv is made!
 
insoc123 said:
What a great link. Fantastic photos and information. So good that after some researching I've doing and seeing these photos and the info within I'm sold and going to buy an OLED tv. I'm not sure if the extra money you pay for the E series in comparison to the less expenside B series, apart from 3D and the speakers, is worth it picture quality wise but the important decision: buying a OLED tv is made!
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Remember, the B series has a little extra input lag over the C, E, and G series. If you want a curve, the C is the only way to go. If you want a flat screen, the E or G. Honestly, I don't see a reason to purchase the G, unless you need a screen larger than 65". Anyone who's willing to spend the money on the G series will probably not be using the built in soundbar to begin with. But I guess if you want a flat screen, but don't want the soundbar to show (as you can flip it behind), the G is your main approach.

Think of the B series as the intro to OLED series. But if you're just trying to save money, and can live with a curve, I'd go with the C. I'd skip the B series altogether to be honest.
 
Nytegard said:
Remember, the B series has a little extra input lag over the C, E, and G series. If you want a curve, the C is the only way to go. If you want a flat screen, the E or G. Honestly, I don't see a reason to purchase the G, unless you need a screen larger than 65". Anyone who's willing to spend the money on the G series will probably not be using the built in soundbar to begin with. But I guess if you want a flat screen, but don't want the soundbar to show (as you can flip it behind), the G is your main approach.

Think of the B series as the intro to OLED series. But if you're just trying to save money, and can live with a curve, I'd go with the C. I'd skip the B series altogether to be honest.
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Yep, I think I'm going with the E series because I don't like the curve panel. Other than the input lag difference you said I also read that the E series it's a little more brighter than the B series one and in OLED terms any extra brightness is very welcomed. Thanks for the tip!
 
I actually ordered a 65C then changed my mind at the last minute. Not a fan of curved displays but the curve is pretty subtle on the LG 2016. What changed my mind was the shiny cheap chrome bezel on the C. It reflected too much light. I thought about painting it with a small brush or covering it with a vinyl wrap. The B has a brushed aluminum looking bezel that doesn't reflect as much light and I think the B is the nicest looking of the lineup but no 3D and higher input lag disqualified it. They are all too thin. A $5,000 TV should not flex. I would rather have a thicker panel or heavier aluminum back plate. If they wanted to market it as super thin, they should have designed a remote box with power and video boards. The E has a much nicer remote. I'm very happy with the picture quality of my E but wish it didn't have the clear plastic bezel or soundbar. What they should have offered was a flat C with a matte black bezel and stand. Maybe anodized aluminum.

If you pickup an OLED, I recommend buying new 3D glasses from Amazon, an $89 3-year square trade warranty from Costco, and try submitting a price protection claim if your credit card offers that benefit.

I was packing up my old 1080P LED DLP and forgot I had an older 720P DLP with no HDMI and burned out bulb. Before tossing it to the curb, I removed its ceramic gold plated DLP chip and color wheel. They will join my menagerie of chips from a bygone era.

20160801_143024.jpg
 
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Since these OLEDs have dropped in price I'm very close to picking one up. The one I'm looking at is the 55" C6. Before I pull the trigger on one is there anything about these OLEDs that could be deal breakers besides the input lag and potential QC issues? I've never had an LG product so I'm not sure how good they are as a company but they are the only ones selling OLEDs and they look stunning.
 
I have been sort of obsessively reading the AVS threads on these models as I am probably buying one of these sets. Other than what you already mentioned, these are all of the negative things I can think of off the top of my head:

- Image retention, obviously

- Rtings says there is judder on 24p streams over 60p, i.e., if you stream netflix via a PC or I think Roku and Xbox. I think (not positive) the native apps on the TV stream in 24p however. Only a dealbreaker for some sensitive to it. Some people online say they never notice it, some people online say it drives them crazy and they can't handle it.

- Possible issue where you need to switch out of the input and back into it to truly enable low input lag "game mode."

- Lower peak brightness than other LED sets such as the 2016 Sammy's.

- Apparently some "crushed blacks" i.e. loss of detail in dark shadows.

And, the counterpoints to some of those:
Re: the brightness, this is only relevant for HDR. The response some people have to that is since the set has actual blacks, the real contrast is still higher and thus HDR/DV still looks great.

Re: Crushed blacks, at least one poster said that if you simply increase the brightness by a very small amount, you reveal the lost shadow detail.

Take all of this with the usual huge bag of salt one should take any random internet comment on something as subjective as PQ. With all that said it seems to me the positives of these sets still outweigh the negatives of other sets (namely the P series and the KS models) since every TV has issues.
 
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illram said:
I have been sort of obsessively reading the AVS threads on these models as I am probably buying one of these sets. Other than what you already mentioned, these are all of the negative things I can think of off the top of my head:

- Image retention, obviously

- Rtings says there is judder on 24p streams over 60p, i.e., if you stream netflix via a PC or I think Roku and Xbox. I think (not positive) the native apps on the TV stream in 24p however. Only a dealbreaker for some sensitive to it. Some people online say they never notice it, some people online say it drives them crazy and they can't handle it.

- Possible issue where you need to switch out of the input and back into it to truly enable low input lag "game mode."

- Lower peak brightness than other LED sets such as the 2016 Sammy's.

- Apparently some "crushed blacks" i.e. loss of detail in dark shadows.

And, the counterpoints to some of those:
Re: the brightness, this is only relevant for HDR. The response some people have to that is since the set has actual blacks, the real contrast is still higher and thus HDR/DV still looks great.

Re: Crushed blacks, at least one poster said that if you simply increase the brightness by a very small amount, you reveal the lost shadow detail.

Take all of this with the usual huge bag of salt one should take any random internet comment on something as subjective as PQ. With all that said it seems to me the positives of these sets still outweigh the negatives of other sets (namely the P series and the KS models) since every TV has issues.
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Thanks for the info! Those issues don't seem too bad. I think I heard about the black crush issue on older OLED models as well but it sounds like it's easily fixable. I'm used to image retention on my Samsung Plasma so that won't bother me. I don't stream Netflix either. One of the reviews I read said that HDR looks great on the current OLEDS so that backs up what you mentioned about it.
 
Does anyone know if these sets support 2560x1440? Can't find a definitive answer in LG support docs or on Google.
 
Anyone here with a B6P? Was wondering how bad the input lag is. I've been thinking about buying the OLED65B6P, but have also been toying with the idea of paying a bit more to get the E6P if it is worth the extra $1k (apparently has lower input lag).
 
exlink said:
Anyone here with a B6P? Was wondering how bad the input lag is. I've been thinking about buying the OLED65B6P, but have also been toying with the idea of paying a bit more to get the E6P if it is worth the extra $1k (apparently has lower input lag).
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I tried my PS4 on one at a Best Buy and without game mode turned on the input lag was noticeable but not horrible. I'm sure if game mode was enabled it would have been fine for the most part but probably not ideal for competitive gaming. I ended up going with the C6 since it's supposed to have lower input lag and it has 3D.
 
StormClaw said:
55" is waay too big to place on your desk

its a shame there is no 40" model
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I will agree :p

I actually took the 55" OLED off my desk and wall mounted it, then went back to my Asus Rog. The 55" is waaaaaaaaay too big for normal use. I had to turn my head to see things and it was unfortunately too big. 48" is THE perfect size
 
B set has ~10ms more input lag in game mode than the other models.

The lineup is strange. It is weird that the curved C6 model has lower input lag and a curve and 3D but is the same price at the B. One would think they would try and charge a premium for the C given the "gimmicky" curve and all the other stuff, but the B and C are both the same for some reason.
 
illram said:
B set has ~10ms more input lag in game mode than the other models.

The lineup is strange. It is weird that the curved C6 model has lower input lag and a curve and 3D but is the same price at the B. One would think they would try and charge a premium for the C given the "gimmicky" curve and all the other stuff, but the B and C are both the same for some reason.
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I believe the difference is closer to 20ms which is quite noticeable.

Unfortunately all the sets seem to have gone back up in price so now it's the waiting game again until they come back down.
 
Martha Stewart said:
I will agree :p

I actually took the 55" OLED off my desk and wall mounted it, then went back to my Asus Rog. The 55" is waaaaaaaaay too big for normal use. I had to turn my head to see things and it was unfortunately too big. 48" is THE perfect size
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QUITTER!

While I think 36"-40" is the sweet spot but the display makers never listen to me. Personally, I would rather game on a massive 55 on my desk than a tiny 27. Perhaps its just me, but I have a hard time seeing enemies on my X34 when I play Battlefield games, whereas the 55 is much easier to spot stuff. Perhaps I am old.
 
Do these run 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 chroma when game mode is turned on, or will it still run at 4:4:4?
 
With nvidia, should be able to select ycbcr 444 422 or 420 but dynamic range is locked to limited. I will check tonight. I mostly use it for TV and movies in ISF bright mode and prefer RGB full dynamic range with oled black level set to high on the TV. To my eyes, this provides clear text and absolute blacks that don't dominate shadows or dark clothing. Color does not look as good in game mode. Plan on playing Tomb Raider soon with the TV and will have more hours comparing the differences between modes. Was experimenting with Doom last week and game mode does have noticeably less input lag.
 
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