LGA 1150 Socket retainer

Vengance_01

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Dec 23, 2001
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Not sure what to call it but I have a hard time tracking down an affordable Micro-ATX board. I found an HP made by MSI board off ebay. It used normal ATX connectors. First problem is the board shipped with a custom backplate to support HP's heatsink. Hair dryer and that poped off but they used that back plate to support the metal socket mechanism. I am using Scythe heatink with a 2 bolt method. I laid the cpu in the socket and carefully cranked down the heatink. It feels snug etc... reminds me of the old days but I am getting no post. I am looking for throughts can the LGA 115X chips run with out the metal socket locking part or is it needed? Or if anyone has a stock back plate from a dead board you can send me(I will pay shipping) that would be really cool.
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
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Are you referring to the arm that that locks the cpu in the socket? Not sure what your talking about...can you take a pic?
 

Vengance_01

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Dec 23, 2001
Messages
6,212
Not sure what to call it but I have a hard time tracking down an affordable Micro-ATX board. I found an HP made by MSI board off ebay. It used normal ATX connectors. First problem is the board shipped with a custom backplate to support HP's heatsink. Hair dryer and that poped off but they used that back plate to support the metal socket mechanism. I am using Scythe heatink with a 2 bolt method. I laid the cpu in the socket and carefully cranked down the heatink. It feels snug etc... reminds me of the old days but I am getting no post. I am looking for throughts can the LGA 115X chips run with out the metal socket locking part or is it needed? Or if anyone has a stock back plate from a dead board you can send me(I will pay shipping) that would be really cool.
 

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kirbyrj

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I would think it should work with your new method. Are you sure something didn't get damaged with your removal of the old setup?

I don't think you really need a lot of pressure. All it is doing is providing enough pressure so every pin connects.
 

RazorWind

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Feb 11, 2001
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I would think it should work with your new method. Are you sure something didn't get damaged with your removal of the old setup?

I don't think you really need a lot of pressure. All it is doing is providing enough pressure so every pin connects.
I suspect the force required to make all the pins connect is higher than one would think, or iat least it's high enough that you can't get there with just the hardware that comes with a typical heatsink.

I'm not clear on what the problem is, though. The hardware in the OP's picture looks like just a cheap version (or just unpainted) of the regular 115X heatsink mounting hardware. I think the solution is to put the backplate and retaining bracket back on the socket, and then install the Scythe heatsink's retaining bars into the four holes, in place of the original HP parts.

So, from the original hardware, you'd use the three screws closest to the socket, but not the four screws that are further away.
 

Vengance_01

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I think I have a solution. The problem is the the HP backplate will interfere with the scythe backplate. I but I remember I have an old Sandybridge board that's dead I can steal the mounting plate for the socket to secure to. I will report back.
 

Vengance_01

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Dec 23, 2001
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So that fit but sadly I damaged the board inside the socket as some pins were bent. Still no post but surprising no beeps :/ I might try to order 1 more board and see what happens but I just move on and pick up a cheap 3600 combo at MC and 16GB ram
 

RazorWind

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Feb 11, 2001
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The pins can sometimes be straightened. You've got nothing to lose by trying.
 
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