LG 48CX

Just got mine in from Costco , setting it up for 60hz , 4k for the moment until new cards are out , but missing a GYSYNC option entirely , any ideas ?
 
MistaSparkul said:
Instant Game Response must be enabled on the TV in order for Gsync to show up. If you want to use BFI then you must disable Instant Game Response.
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Hmmm...are you sure about this? I left Instant Game Response on and used BFI the other day to play some Call of Juarez. Unless enabling BFI automatically disables Instant Game Response?
 
Lateralus said:
Hmmm...are you sure about this? I left Instant Game Response on and used BFI the other day to play some Call of Juarez. Unless enabling BFI automatically disables Instant Game Response?
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BFI will be greyed out if you have IGR turned on. You cannot activate BFI without first turning off IGR. Or perhaps maybe all you have to do is disable Gsync within the NVCP and then you will be able to turn BFI on.
 
MistaSparkul said:
BFI will be greyed out if you have IGR turned on. You cannot activate BFI without first turning off IGR.
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Hmmm...pretty sure I haven’t turned IGR off since I first got the set. BFI on these sets is called Motion Pro, right? The screen dimmed when I enabled it.
 
kasakka said:
I've worked on mine a few weeks. I'm a programmer and my settings are basically the RTings recommended settings but OLED light turned down to 30-40 (40 during daytime, 30 in the evening), HDR off. Burn-in is a possibility but if you use for example a couple of virtual desktops you would have the equivalent of "mixed content" which helps avoid burn-in. If I take longer breaks (lunch, bathroom etc) I just turn off the TV with the remote.

I also have a black background, use dark modes where I can, taskbar hidden, screensaver set to go on after 5 minutes of idle and display going to sleep shortly after that. I never see the screensaver at inappropriate times (when I am working on something).

It would not be my first choice for a work monitor but I don't want to try to cram in another big monitor just for that.
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God damn, you all are WAY too conservative. I have oled light at 60 at the lowest at night since it can get bright, otherwise it's around 70 and I have no worries. If it degrades in a few years that will be a good time to jump to the latest and greatest.
 
Brightness is a very personal setting. I'm at 20 most of the time and it's not because of burn-in worries, but I'm very happy that it helps with that too (a lot, judging by Rtings tests).
 
Lateralus said:
I have a 1080Ti, so from my understanding I won’t get that tasty G-Sync option until I buy a new card (waiting for the 3080Ti). Maybe that’s where the confusion was?
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I guess that explains it then. For me I leave gsync on at all times so I cannot enable BFI at all without turning off IGR, which disables gsync entirely. If I disable gsync from NCVP then it's probably possible to leave IGR on and BFI at the same time. It's easier for me to do it this way since I HAVE to enter the TV menu regardless to enable BFI, so I simply disable IGR and enable BFI all from the TV menu rather than open up NVCP.
 
kalston said:
Brightness is a very personal setting. I'm at 20 most of the time and it's not because of burn-in worries, but I'm very happy that it helps with that too (a lot, judging by Rtings tests).
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Yeah. I can’t imagine running it at 0 like mirkendargen, but maybe his set is in a very dark room or that’s just what he likes. For me, it’s too dim and mutes the colors too much, taking a lot of “pop” out of the image. I ran an OLED light of around 12 on my B7 but found that setting to be noticeably less bright on the CX; probably due to what someone said earlier about the larger screen putting out more light at an equivalent setting. Not sure but I’m currently running 30 full time which seems to work well for day and night.
 
jincuteguy said:
You got a 48" CX from Costco?
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Yes 1449 including the extra two year square trade and the two year Costco warranty , shipped free.

Unfortunately I'm returning it (thankfully Costco is super easy and automatic on these kinds of things.)

It's just a bit too big for me to be comfortable with 3ish feet away. I've used a 32" BenQ at 4k for years now and use a 40" for my center monitor at work , but I think 40 is my max for my personal tastes. Nothing against the TV at all , was worth trying , but 40 (maaayybee 43" ) is the tipping point to me I think for main PC monitor for both gaming and work.
 
To avoid ABL on the CX, you need to stay under 45-50ish OLED light.

I also use mine at 20 (80nits) and find it plenty comfortable. There's someone here using theirs at 0 (40nits) which I think is just uncomfortably dim.
 
Lateralus said:
Yeah. I can’t imagine running it at 0 like mirkendargen, but maybe his set is in a very dark room or that’s just what he likes. For me, it’s too dim and mutes the colors too much, taking a lot of “pop” out of the image. I ran an OLED light of around 12 on my B7 but found that setting to be noticeably less bright on the CX; probably due to what someone said earlier about the larger screen putting out more light at an equivalent setting. Not sure but I’m currently running 30 full time which seems to work well for day and night.
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I don't need colors to pop to write code and read email, I just need to be able to read the text without issue ;) I run it at 35 (which I is where I get 100nit brightness after calibrating) when gaming/watching videos/what not, just 0 when working.
 
MistaSparkul said:
I guess that explains it then. For me I leave gsync on at all times so I cannot enable BFI at all without turning off IGR, which disables gsync entirely. If I disable gsync from NCVP then it's probably possible to leave IGR on and BFI at the same time. It's easier for me to do it this way since I HAVE to enter the TV menu regardless to enable BFI, so I simply disable IGR and enable BFI all from the TV menu rather than open up NVCP.
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This is correct, you can have the port with IGR enabled, but if you don't enable Gsync in NVCP it doesn't do whatever ALLM/VRR handshake, you don't get the IGR popup in the top right, and you can still enable BFI.
 
SoCali said:
To avoid ABL on the CX, you need to stay under 45-50ish OLED light.

I also use mine at 20 (80nits) and find it plenty comfortable. There's someone here using theirs at 0 (40nits) which I think is just uncomfortably dim.
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As mentioned earlier, I’m running an OLED level of 30 and mine definitely reduces its brightness at times when working in dark windows (then increases when I switch back to a white/light window). But I’ve seen ABL and ASBL mentioned here, and that one of them can only be disabled with the service remote, so maybe what I’m experiencing is normal.


mirkendargen said:
I don't need colors to pop to write code and read email, I just need to be able to read the text without issue ;) I run it at 35 (which I is where I get 100nit brightness after calibrating) when gaming/watching videos/what not, just 0 when working.
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Ah, that makes more sense. Sorry if you mentioned that earlier and I missed it! Working with light/white windows and applications can be brutal at higher levels, lol. These sets can sear your retinas.
 
Lateralus said:
Ah, that makes more sense. Sorry if you mentioned that earlier and I missed it! Working with light/white windows and applications can be brutal at higher levels, lol. These sets can sear your retinas.
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Yeah extended WFH and it's not practical to have discrete work and play monitors on my desk at the same time. By necessity there are a lot of static-ish windows sitting around on my screen while working and with the screen being on like 10-16 hours a day between work and play, I take a better safe than sorry approach during work hours since it doesn't impact readability (for me at least).
 
I managed to get 4:4:4 rendering on the CX at 4K 60 Hz 12-bit RGB. Previously the adapter kept falling back to 12-bit YCbCr420, and only 10-bit RGB worked. So it looks like only 120 Hz is restricted to 4:2:2 rendering.
 
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Monstieur said:
I managed to get 4:4:4 rendering on the CX at 4K 60 Hz 12-bit RGB. Previously the adapter kept falling back to 12-bit YCbCr420, and only 10-bit RGB worked. So it looks like only 120 Hz is restricted to 4:2:2 rendering.
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How come I don't see 422 when I'm checking the HDMI Diagnostic menu? It only said RGBORYCBCR , and I have no idea what that means
 
I just got a firmware update to 03.10.41. I can't find the changelog anywhere.

jincuteguy said:
How come I don't see 422 when I'm checking the HDMI Diagnostic menu? It only said RGBORYCBCR , and I have no idea what that means
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The input signal is still RGB. The TV subsamples it to 4:2:2.
 
Can anyone confirm that this TV can do 4k@60hz on the latest macbook (16") using a good usb-c to HDMI2.0 cable? With the one cable I ordered, it doesn't work and comes up with 30hz. Ordered a better one but not here yet.
What is also a bit odd, is I don't get the HDR option under display settings on latest OSX. That should work, so hoping its just the cable.

I'm using this TV for work (and gaming) and really in love with it but 4k@60 on osx would be a requirement.

Tried 2k@120hz and it was fantastic. Have no hope that I'll be able to do that on OSX at 4k, but perhaps if a usb-c -> HDMI2.1 cable ever comes along.
 
kato said:
Can anyone confirm that this TV can do 4k@60hz on the latest macbook (16") using a good usb-c to HDMI2.0 cable? With the one cable I ordered, it doesn't work and comes up with 30hz. Ordered a better one but not here yet.
What is also a bit odd, is I don't get the HDR option under display settings on latest OSX. That should work, so hoping its just the cable.

I'm using this TV for work (and gaming) and really in love with it but 4k@60 on osx would be a requirement.

Tried 2k@120hz and it was fantastic. Have no hope that I'll be able to do that on OSX, but perhaps if a usb-c -> HDMI2.1 cable ever comes along.
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I use a CableMatters USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter with a CableMatters "48 Gbps" HDMI cable with my 2016 MBP and 4K 60 Hz works perfectly fine. My MBP does not support HDR so no idea about that.

Make sure you have the HDMI Ultra Deep Colour option enabled.
 
kasakka said:
I use a CableMatters USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter with a CableMatters "48 Gbps" HDMI cable with my 2016 MBP and 4K 60 Hz works perfectly fine. My MBP does not support HDR so no idea about that.

Make sure you have the HDMI Ultra Deep Colour option enabled.
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Thank you. That gives me some hope. Will see when new cable is here tomorrow.
 
Lateralus said:
As mentioned earlier, I’m running an OLED level of 30 and mine definitely reduces its brightness at times when working in dark windows (then increases when I switch back to a white/light window). But I’ve seen ABL and ASBL mentioned here, and that one of them can only be disabled with the service remote, so maybe what I’m experiencing is normal.
Click to expand...

You're experiencing ASBL which is less apparent with PC input icon but IMO way less intrusive than actual ABL. ABL would have the opposite effect, you're white window would dim.

Most of the times I ever see ASBL it's pretty subtle and a non issue.
 
Dahkoht said:
Yes 1449 including the extra two year square trade and the two year Costco warranty , shipped free.

Unfortunately I'm returning it (thankfully Costco is super easy and automatic on these kinds of things.)

It's just a bit too big for me to be comfortable with 3ish feet away. I've used a 32" BenQ at 4k for years now and use a 40" for my center monitor at work , but I think 40 is my max for my personal tastes. Nothing against the TV at all , was worth trying , but 40 (maaayybee 43" ) is the tipping point to me I think for main PC monitor for both gaming and work.
Click to expand...

Dahkoht, do you know if either the Costco warranty or the Squaretrade offer burn in protection like Best Buy does?

Also, I know Costco often carries their "own version" of TVs that have a different model suffix (usually towards the end of the number). I'm not sure if there's any hardware difference, but I'm skeptical.

Thank you for sharing your experience.
 
Squaretrade doesn't cover burn in. The only warranty that does is Bestbuy's and it's really only worth getting the 5 year because chances of burn in happening in 2 years is slim.

I tried price matching my BB order to Costco but because there is a 1 letter difference between their models numbers BB refused to save me $50.
 
Lateralus said:
Yeah. I can’t imagine running it at 0 like mirkendargen, but maybe his set is in a very dark room or that’s just what he likes. For me, it’s too dim and mutes the colors too much, taking a lot of “pop” out of the image. I ran an OLED light of around 12 on my B7 but found that setting to be noticeably less bright on the CX; probably due to what someone said earlier about the larger screen putting out more light at an equivalent setting. Not sure but I’m currently running 30 full time which seems to work well for day and night.
Click to expand...

I run mine at OLED LIGHT 100 all the time, even in a pitch black room and I still want more brightness if I could :D
 
improwise said:
I run mine at OLED LIGHT 100 all the time, even in a pitch black room and I still want more brightness if I could :D
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I really don't know how you are OK doing that outside HDR. Likewise OLED light at zero would be so dim, I can't see being able to use it during day OR night time.
 
improwise said:
I run mine at OLED LIGHT 100 all the time, even in a pitch black room and I still want more brightness if I could :D
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I have found this to be blinding in some scenarios, especially with HDR content. Not nearly as blinding as my Q90R @ 100% brightness, but still, very bright.

Seriously the 9 and X series of LG OLED TVs get deceptively bright in certain scenarios.
 
wooj said:
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Absolutely love BFI. At 120Hz there is no perceptible flickering. I guess long term usage could still result in some eyestrain for certain people but I have personally played for hours on end with BFI enabled and have had zero problems with eyestrain. Of course I wouldn't recommend using it at 60Hz though.
 
kasakka said:
I really don't know how you are OK doing that outside HDR. Likewise OLED light at zero would be so dim, I can't see being able to use it during day OR night time.
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I don't know that either to be honest, but I actually have surprisingly good eye sight (even in the dark) that matches those of half my age without any problems according to my optician. Perhaps I qualify as both a geek and a freak :)
 
madpistol said:
I have found this to be blinding in some scenarios, especially with HDR content. Not nearly as blinding as my Q90R @ 100% brightness, but still, very bright.

Seriously the 9 and X series of LG OLED TVs get deceptively bright in certain scenarios.
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I actually found the Q95T to be a bit dim as well :D

Just as a remainder:

" The ambient brightness of a sunny day with clear blue skies is between 7000-10,000 nits (between 3000-7000 nits for overcast skies and indirect sunlight). A bright sunny day can have specular highlights that reach over 100,000 nits. Direct sunlight is around 1,600,000,000 nits. "

So 800 nits really is not that much in that regard. Don't claim to be any sort of expert though.

Can add that I have tried to run with lower brightness but only found the picture to be dim and uninspiring with no obvious improvements. If I would be working for a long time in a pitch black room I would probably decrease brightness instead...or more likely just turn on a light or two.
 
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Have asked this before but no one seem to know, what is the difference between enabling energy saving (manual) and just lowering OLED Light?
 
Like others I have the Club 3D adapter working with their 48gbps hdmi cable and while control panel shows
10bpc full rgb 4k120....that dang brown cow dog text test confirms 422.

422 is an improvement from 420 in text readability and the colors are also better, but definantly no substitute for the 3000 series cards when available.
 

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