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I killed my machine?
- Thread starter tyguy
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jk. that psu should be enough. personally tho i'd spend a lil more for a 850 that will futureproof any other possible upgrades that follow.
i dont know too much about specific numbers on i series cpu but i know the general consensus is that fermis and i cores take more juice than ati/amd more often than not.
Lol thanks for the blessing. Ok i gonna go swoop it up and try it out when I get home later tonight. Should I even attempt to hook that fermi back up if my system is fine wit hth new power supply? Or just rma it immediately? I already registered the card on evgas's website.
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"better safe than sorry." \
that said, i would have already decided to RMA that sucker. but i also can understand the curiosity of the working condition of that card you have. ur prerogative.
if i were you (judging from what i've read in the thread) after getting the new psu, first and foremost plug it into the mobo (after clearing bios) with just keyboard/ram in to make sure it powers up and nothing smells or what not. then start to test each part to make sure all the parts you have are still in working order/stable.
>it'll should say to go into bios to set time and junk. i'd go in and let it sit for a few minutes.
>then plug in a KNOWN working hdd. if it has an os on it, great. go back into bios set time/hdd settings. save/reboot until it stops with missing os error (if hdd has no os), or if there is an os, let it get to desktop and stablize, then shut down.
>install second ripjaw. boot to shutdown.
>by now, if everything's been peachy stable, go on to install remaining hdd.
after that, if the curiosity is eating you up, stick the 480 in and give it a go. once again, i would have gone with 850 (a decent futureproof step up from 650) but -shrugs- if it works, then youd know for sure it was the psu. if not (and hopefully it wont wont work and nothing sizzles or booms) then you take out the 480 and pray ur system will go back to the way it was right before putting in the space heater......and you'll know the card's already damaged (was doa)
**not saying that what you're supposed to do cuz i'm no IT guy, but thats what i'd prolly do AFIK about situations such as this
that said, i would have already decided to RMA that sucker. but i also can understand the curiosity of the working condition of that card you have. ur prerogative.
if i were you (judging from what i've read in the thread) after getting the new psu, first and foremost plug it into the mobo (after clearing bios) with just keyboard/ram in to make sure it powers up and nothing smells or what not. then start to test each part to make sure all the parts you have are still in working order/stable.
>it'll should say to go into bios to set time and junk. i'd go in and let it sit for a few minutes.
>then plug in a KNOWN working hdd. if it has an os on it, great. go back into bios set time/hdd settings. save/reboot until it stops with missing os error (if hdd has no os), or if there is an os, let it get to desktop and stablize, then shut down.
>install second ripjaw. boot to shutdown.
>by now, if everything's been peachy stable, go on to install remaining hdd.
after that, if the curiosity is eating you up, stick the 480 in and give it a go. once again, i would have gone with 850 (a decent futureproof step up from 650) but -shrugs- if it works, then youd know for sure it was the psu. if not (and hopefully it wont wont work and nothing sizzles or booms) then you take out the 480 and pray ur system will go back to the way it was right before putting in the space heater......and you'll know the card's already damaged (was doa)
**not saying that what you're supposed to do cuz i'm no IT guy, but thats what i'd prolly do AFIK about situations such as this
My toughpower has 4 18 amp 12 volt rails. The box says the minimum requirements is a 600 watt with 40 amp 12 volt rail. So does that toughpower technically not meet the power requirements? Altogether those 18 amps add up to well over 40. Or is it imperative that its a single 12 volt rail with required amps?
My question here is for rma purposes of the power supply. I'm definitely swooping up this cooler master, but I would like to rma this toughpower so I can throw it in the core 2 duo rig and give it to my little brother.
So I guess my question is does the 4 18 amp 12 volt rails add up to 72 amps? Or is it literally 4 18 amp rails where power isnt added? Maybe one of the rails blew and thats why it's only have ass working now?
My question here is for rma purposes of the power supply. I'm definitely swooping up this cooler master, but I would like to rma this toughpower so I can throw it in the core 2 duo rig and give it to my little brother.
So I guess my question is does the 4 18 amp 12 volt rails add up to 72 amps? Or is it literally 4 18 amp rails where power isnt added? Maybe one of the rails blew and thats why it's only have ass working now?
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if im not mistaken, the amps dont add.
correct me if im wrong.
on a side note: this is pretty nifty/helpful: http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/
correct me if im wrong.
on a side note: this is pretty nifty/helpful: http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/
I figured that coolermaster might be the better buy. Its a new power supply with the same exact specs as that corsair. Looking at reviews that corsair is 2 years old while the cooler master is a very recent model. They are also the same price.
I also thought the hx was the higher quality model. The tx is touted as the energy saver type model...
Edit: After further research I dont like what I read about the coolermaster "Cooler Master GX 750 W looks like a good option for users looking for a mainstream 750 W power supply, however it has a major flaw that prevents us from recommending it: noise level at +3.3 V and +5VSB outputs were above the maximum allowed when we pulled 600 W and above from this unit. High noise levels overload and can even damage components on your computer." http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/917/10
Corsair tx 750 or 850 it is.
I also thought the hx was the higher quality model. The tx is touted as the energy saver type model...
Edit: After further research I dont like what I read about the coolermaster "Cooler Master GX 750 W looks like a good option for users looking for a mainstream 750 W power supply, however it has a major flaw that prevents us from recommending it: noise level at +3.3 V and +5VSB outputs were above the maximum allowed when we pulled 600 W and above from this unit. High noise levels overload and can even damage components on your computer." http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/917/10
Corsair tx 750 or 850 it is.
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Dangman
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No that PSU is not a good or smart buy. Just because it's newer does not make it better than the Corsair 750TX. Read this review:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/917
Note this valuable quote:
So don't go with that Coolermaster.
You never add up the rails like that. It does not make sense since if you were to add up the rails, that would mean that the 650W Toughpower PSU has 864W on the +12V rail available. See the problem with that? If properly laid out, the number of rails really don't matter. I highly recommend reading this PSU FAQ:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1036
None of the Corsair series are touted as "energy saver type models". Here's breakdown of the Corsair line:
CX - entry level, very cheap units. Will meet all ATX specs.
GS - Gamer line. LED fans, higher wattage. Will meet all ATX specs at 40C. 3 year warranty.
TX/VX - Overclocker/enthusiast line. Good price performance ratio. Better warranty (5 year)
HX - High-end line. Better efficiency (bronze or higher), better warranty (7 year), semi-modular cables.
EDIT: Looks like you found the HWSecrets review already
Thanks for that break down danny. Yeah I stumbled across that article when researching, picking it up after this class I have. I'll report how things go later tonight. Although I got a rec basketball game tonight so ill try and squeeze this in before, if not afterwards.
WabeWalker
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I agree with what you're saying 100% - except for the part about 'a good chunk of money'. A high wattage, good quality PSU isn't going to cost a lot of money.
This is the one component in a PC that people buying PCs off the shelf tend to overlook - it's ridiculous to try and save $75 by buying a lower wattage PSU that you'll just get by on.
When I ordered my Alienware Core i7 I made certain to go overboard on the PSU, which is a 1000 watt unit. It only cost me $75 more than the lesser unit, but it'll serve me well for the 4 or 5 years that I'll own this system.
Tamlin_WSGF
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No and thats the clue. Though the GTX480 can have a high powerdraw under stress tests and heavy games, the powerdraw killing your 650W PSU upon initial boot is bloody unlikely.
If the connectors are bad or not attached properly, power can be fed back into the PSU overloading it. A bad component connected to the PSU, like the harddrive or the GFX card can do the same.
Getting a new PSU is the best option, since even though things look ok, there is nothing certain that the PSU might not be a ticking bomb after the previous overload. Your PSU should be able to run a single GTX, but its better to have some overhead when the power draw peaks.
RMA the card, perhaps RMA the PSU also if possible and still under warranty. Upgrade to a 750W PSU that are tested well with highend cards like the ones found in [H] recommendation list.
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Spare-Flair
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I think the problem may be daisy chaining the adapters as you don't know how the four +12v rails are split up. One of the rails may have been overloaded since you had to use a bunch of adapters.
Godmachine
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I think this is pretty much what happend , good call.
So I just got that corsair tx 750 and it apears to not have a 4 pin plug for the cpu... It has the 24 pin one obviously and the 6 pin pic-e cables have a side attatchment with 2 pins. I tried plugging those into the 4 pin but no dice. The psu came with an 8 pin but my mobo doesnt take an 8 pin. Also checked the box and there was no adapter for a 4 pin. Looked in my motherboard box and no adapter there as well.
Tamlin_WSGF
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Edit :Never mind. You figured it out!
Tamlin_WSGF
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I need to ask, since you have taken the machine apart several times now. Is the chassis connector that you power on the machine connected to the MB now?
I havent taken the motherboard out of the case. The only thing I have done is take the psu completely out. I had it posting before when i didnt have that hard drive plugged in and it was posting. Put the psu back in and tightened everything up and its been completely unresponsive ever since.
And yes I made sure the power switch is connected correctly to the motherboard
Tamlin_WSGF
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Check the power path (Socket, PSU (with on switch)), connectors etc. Make sure you have minimal connnected upon first test (MB with CPU, 1 mem chip, GPU, keyboard). Reset bios. Don't use the GTX480, but rather the 8800 which you know works.
Spare-Flair
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I'm sorry to hear that. I used to have a TX750 and it's a good PSU. I'm afraid that the GTX 480 and the Toughpower may have damaged your motherboards (both of them). I seem to recall reading some bad things about the Toughpower somewhere but I can't remember what it was exactly.
Fermi is in its box right now. I tried firing it up with just the cpu with no videocard and 1 stick of memory. Im assuming it can fire up like this. Yesterday it did.
You think my cpu and memory are unharmed? Would hate to order a new mobo and find out I need to replace those too. Boy I thought I was getting a nice upgrade but im going back to square 1... Oh well, worse shit can happen but this sucks.
Spare-Flair
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Yes the computer can post without a videocard and 1 stick of memory.
Spare-Flair
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The CPU fan not spinning is usually the 4 pin connector not connected but I'm sure you had that taken care of.
Tamlin_WSGF
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With a power overload, any device connected can potentially be damaged. Without testing equipment, its a gamble anyway. Thats why I wanted you to get a new PSU to be on the safe side, even if it would seem to work.
This sucks. You had a working system, wanted a nice upgrade, but then it blew up. At least a fire didn't get started or irreplaceable pictures got lost in the process. Its lost time and money.
If you get your MB replaced and want to test the components with it, do it one at the time. Run mem86 or similar on the memory before proceeding with connecting other parts. Let everything get a full test.
Godmachine
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Did it fire up before in any combination with the previous PSU? If not you may have fried you're board or cpu.
It did until I put everything back together and tried to turn it on. Since then when I try to power it up nothing happens at all. So if i get a new mobo and the same thing happens the cpu is fried as well? Anyway i can test to see if the motherboard is getting power but the cpu isnt working?
Godmachine
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Without a working cpu no you won't be able to power up the mobo. Its possible if you get another mobo that it would power up but only if the cpu was not fried as well.
You're in a tough spot now , you have to figure out which is the problem. If you aren't close to the store where you buy parts you may want to consider buying both the mobo and cpu then returning whatever isn't required.
You're in a tough spot now , you have to figure out which is the problem. If you aren't close to the store where you buy parts you may want to consider buying both the mobo and cpu then returning whatever isn't required.
I bought my cpu/mobod the fermi and this new corsair power supply from frys. Im going to go back there wit the fermi and explain to them the situation. I was concerned when I bought it about the power supply and told their guys that. They thought I was good to go(I should have known they didnt know anything). Basically this fermi card left a trail of bodies with most of my equipment bought from them. I know they have a tech center there so im hoping they can hook me up and test out all my parts individually and maybe give me some sort of discount because I have purchased a lot of stuff from them. If they say no, well it was worth a try.
Godmachine
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Yea , never trust a retail employee to give you advice on something like power requirements .. Fry's employee's work on a partial commission so some of them will say anything for you to lay down some bank.
I don't see why they would have a problem hooking up and testing the components before you go , make sure you make the point (to management if you have to) that you were TOLD this would work fine and instead it caused a catastrophic system failure thanks to the advice of one idiot employee.
I'm sorry, who gives you this information? Coolermaster makes crappy PSUs and in retrospect it's no surprise that your system went down in flames when you attempted to plug a power hungry GTX 480 into it.
Dangman
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The OP was using a Thermaltake Toughpower 650W PSU when the system died. He was thinking of getting the Coolermaster as a replacement until he found out that the PSU was a piece of shit.
So no, the OP has not bought or used the Coolermaster PSU.
Well that's a relief. ^_^ Glad someone cut him off at the past before more of his stuff blew up.
It really sucks when something like this happens. I hope Fry's will hook him up and at least troubleshoot his system and dead parts, many of which he bought from them directly.