I just used thermal grizzly conductonout and I'm freaking out should I be worried?

xDiVolatilX

2[H]4U
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Hey guys/gals so I just finished my upgrade build on my main rig with the new EK Quantum block on my 12700kf using the liquid metal thermal grizzly conductonout application and I'm freaking out reading some reviewers saying that is "bakes" or "engraves" or "burns" itself into the cpu or the IHS? Do I have anything to worry about? I just ordered the Noctua NT-H1 paste which will come in next week in case I need to swap the liquid metal for the traditional thermal "paste".
Who can guide me in the right direction because the last thing I want is to reapply this liquid metal every 3 months or whatever I mos def don't have the time to do this. I have always left my arctic sliver on for actual years and never had any temperature issues always low and cool and would like to keep this trend going. Not realizing the drawbacks of liquid metal I tried it and now am feeling regretful help me understand the cons of liquid past before It's too late please! Thanks!
 
I've used LM, but only after a delid. Since you put on LM already, I would just leave it and keep an eye on temps. If temps rise, take it off and put on something else. If you are worried about the LM changing how your heatsink looks, take it off now. They say what the LM can do to a heatsink (especially copper) looks bad but doesn't hurt performance.

I recently researched pastes. Generally it mostly doesn't matter, almost anything is fine, as temps are only a few degrees C different between pastes. Possibly more important is what happens after some time. Supposedly some pastes dry out more, ceramic pastes and Kryonaut being cited as worse than carbon based pastes. I considered Arctic MX-6, which is carbon and based on MX-4, but in the end I decided to try Corsair XTM70. It's relatively new, reviewed well, and has a fancy stencil applicator.
 
I've used LM, but only after a delid. Since you put on LM already, I would just leave it and keep an eye on temps. If temps rise, take it off and put on something else. If you are worried about the LM changing how your heatsink looks, take it off now. They say what the LM can do to a heatsink (especially copper) looks bad but doesn't hurt performance.

I recently researched pastes. Generally it mostly doesn't matter, almost anything is fine, as temps are only a few degrees C different between pastes. Possibly more important is what happens after some time. Supposedly some pastes dry out more, ceramic pastes and Kryonaut being cited as worse than carbon based pastes. I considered Arctic MX-6, which is carbon and based on MX-4, but in the end I decided to try Corsair XTM70. It's relatively new, reviewed well, and has a fancy stencil applicator.
Wow great information. I'm just so worried because the quantum ek block was very expensive I paid 150 for it because I wanted it to be very good for years and now I feel like I need to already uninstall it just a week after completing the full build fml.
 
You really shouldn't be using LM for standard IHS application. I'd get that crap off and just stick with the paste. On IHS application it's not as if it's going to make a huge difference anyways.
 
Just be really careful with it - and do NOT over apply it like I did. Be sure to clean off any trace of it that seeps out once your heat sink is fully mounted. It remains very much a liquid and it stays that way… any excess can and will collect and drip, perhaps not right away, but eventually, especially if you move or bump your case. A single small drop in my case worked its way off the edge of my heat sink and fell down onto the edge of my Rocket Plus M2 drive without my noticing. It eventually worked its way down into the board and destroyed it. So lesson learned the hard way, it is highly conductive to not just heat, but will also play havoc on any electrical contacts it happens to touch. I’ll never be using it again, just too risky… and messy.
 
Yea no reason to be using LM on the IHS. It won't harm anything but it will discolor it. I would just leave it alone since you have it on.
 
As far as I recall it reacts with bare copper the most. Usually people delid and use it there but really it's easier to just use normal paste. The grizzly cryonaut or whatever TIM is good too but noctua is too.

Liquid metal staining the block won't affect performance, may actually microscopically improve it lol. Now if it was reacting and creating unevenness you'd need to clean it back up (try scrubbing with a gentle blue or green scrubber, lapping as last resort.) I don't recall seeing that on the nickel or chrome coatings or the cpu ihs though, just discoloring at worst so I'd relax, clean and swap when the nh-h1 comes in.
 
IIRC, the gallium in LM soaks into copper, creating an alloy. There's no point in trying to clean it off, unless it's uneven as rhkcommander959 said.
 
You really shouldn't be using LM for standard IHS application. I'd get that crap off and just stick with the paste. On IHS application it's not as if it's going to make a huge difference anyways.
Alright, when the Noctua paste comes in I'm going to swap out the LM, thanks.
 
Just be really careful with it - and do NOT over apply it like I did. Be sure to clean off any trace of it that seeps out once your heat sink is fully mounted. It remains very much a liquid and it stays that way… any excess can and will collect and drip, perhaps not right away, but eventually, especially if you move or bump your case. A single small drop in my case worked its way off the edge of my heat sink and fell down onto the edge of my Rocket Plus M2 drive without my noticing. It eventually worked its way down into the board and destroyed it. So lesson learned the hard way, it is highly conductive to not just heat, but will also play havoc on any electrical contacts it happens to touch. I’ll never be using it again, just too risky… and messy.
Great information, thanks.
 
As far as I recall it reacts with bare copper the most. Usually people delid and use it there but really it's easier to just use normal paste. The grizzly cryonaut or whatever TIM is good too but noctua is too.

Liquid metal staining the block won't affect performance, may actually microscopically improve it lol. Now if it was reacting and creating unevenness you'd need to clean it back up (try scrubbing with a gentle blue or green scrubber, lapping as last resort.) I don't recall seeing that on the nickel or chrome coatings or the cpu ihs though, just discoloring at worst so I'd relax, clean and swap when the nh-h1 comes in.
I think the new EK Quantum block has nickel plating, so I am hoping I'm ok for the 3 weeks It's been on, thanks.
 
IIRC, the gallium in LM soaks into copper, creating an alloy. There's no point in trying to clean it off, unless it's uneven as rhkcommander959 said
Like I mentioned in the last post I hope it doesn't ruin the nickel plating on the expensive new 1700 ek quantum block, I'll post my results. thanks.
 
Like I mentioned in the last post I hope it doesn't ruin the nickel plating on the expensive new 1700 ek quantum block, I'll post my results. thanks.
Ruin is subjective. Sure, it won't look pretty, but it will perform just as well. So, would it really be ruined if a surface that is never seen unless disassembled is tarnished? o_O
 
Ruin is subjective. Sure, it won't look pretty, but it will perform just as well. So, would it really be ruined if a surface that is never seen unless disassembled is tarnished? o_O
Well, it voids both the cpu and waterblock warranties :p.
 
LM is supposed to be fine on nickel plating. Some discoloration without affect on performance.
 
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