First time custom water - hardline

you might get away with that short tube. now that I see it straight on, its basically the same offset either way, so you'll get the same kink. from your other pics it looked the bottom right port was straight below the top left port. if you have a bit of hard line left you could put connectors on each and heat the entire length to soften it a bit and just slightly lean it into shape.
otherwise, fill it and try it.

as far as that pad goes, it looks like it made zero contact. is that block universal? make sure your mounting posts are the correct height. id use your AS5 to make sure its getting correct contact.
 
no prob!
temps look good now. system looks good. good stuff!
when you put in your coolant and you got you loop full and all air out of it, tilt your case forward and get your res as full as possible. get that air pocket as small as possible to keep it away from the outlet.
 
Short term, the flex pipe will work (as long as it doesn't leak), but it is going to restrict a bit and probably cause you a bit higher temps. I wouldn't worry about it really, a D5 should be able to keep the flow good enough! That rigid will be a right PITA on the other hand... :D
 
cpu temp is good but your voltage looks a little high but the heat is what matters. what are the gpus hitting?
I think they meant bending the tiny tube between the gpus. which is doable, just tricky. but if its working, I wouldn't worry about.
 
its always nice to know a company cares about its customers!
 
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the leak is coming off the line going into the Mobo. it's either from of the fittings that tube is going into. the small leak is travelling down the outside of the tube and then dropping off at the bend onto your card.

the "residue" looks like small air bubbles at are clinging to the internal surface of the tube. trying tapping the line with your fingernail and see if they dislodge.
 
yeah it does look like the cpu tube. use a towel or some type of thin clothe to cover a pair of pliers and tighten the compression fitting a bit more. then, unfortunately, rerun a leak test for 12-24 hrs.
if that residue is on the bottom of the tube(ie it sunk) then its prob flux from in the rads. you can live with it or drain and refill or maybe tilt around the case and flow it back into the res outta site. if its floating then its tiny air bubbles and can be shaken out.
 
The screw threads or compression fittings somewhere are likely allowing in a slight amount of air due to a minor vacuum and that is causing bubbles. Just wrap that resevoir screw with PTFE pipe tape and screw it back in, make sure you wrap the tape with the threads and not against it. It won't leak with three or 4 winds of pipe take around the screw. See if that fixes the micro bubble issue.

Alternatively the bubble could be from pump cavitation OR is simplly some small amounts of air still working their way around the system until you fix all of the leaks.
 
Nebell said:
The tape has helped so far I think. It's been on for over an hour and a half with no leaks, earlier when I got home it took 30 minutes to start leaking.
I kinda like bubbles to be honest since you can see the water flow. Real bubbles, this is actually foam building up.
Are bubbles dangerous or is it fine to let small ones happen from time to time?
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First add more water so that the res input stream isn't splashing and making bubbles. If that fails...

Mystery bubbles are a bad sign that something is potentially going to leak in the future. Get enough bubbles and the loop can get air locked. If the system is sucking in a lot of air, then airborne contaminates are (vveerryy slowly) getting into the loop as well.

I wouldn't trust that loop at all until the bubble issue is resolved.
 
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Nebell said:
I see.
Well, I was anyway planning to drain the system in a couple of weeks.
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Draining it just to change the water is fine. Don't start pulling everything apart though, then you just might introduce new issues when it goes back together. If you can track down where the bubbles are coming from, fix that.
 
Do what ocell said. Make sure you get the res as vertical as possible to get it as full as possible. Also try and use clothe wrapped pliers to make sure all connectors are tight.

What you might want to do, if you have an extra connector and a bit of tubing, is connect it to the res and have someone hold it up high while you shake the system around to get ask those bubbles out.
 
don't run the pump when youre draining. run your drain line to a bucket and open the fill port. gravity does the rest.
 
Catching back up on this thread. Final build looks good, but can't say I didn't warn you about the two mismatched cards! I can't tell from the angle of the closeup of the "residue"... but is it at the top of the tube or the bottom? If its at the top (i.e. floating) then its almost certainly air from cavitation and air bubbles working their way out.
 
well yeah if its below your drain it wont drain unless you tip/tilt it around. turn it up-side-down if you have to. just do not run your pump dry! if all that's left is the bottom rad you could even hook the drain tube to it...
 
pendragon1 said:
well yeah if its below your drain it wont drain unless you tip/tilt it around. turn it up-side-down if you have to. just do not run your pump dry! if all that's left is the bottom rad you could even hook the drain tube to it...
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I have a drain tube for that bottom rad but I have to turn the chassis upside down for it to drain :)
There are three drain points. The bottom rad, the big rad in the back and the reservoir.
 
you made the front page!

you could probably get the system to drain just from the bottom rad.
 
Couldn't happen to a nicer person. Congrats on the build. I've been following every posts religiously. Very impressed with your skills and the recommendations from the [H]ardocp clan. ;)
 
omg this worklog and project is a mess . . .sorry. Glad you at least learned something from the process
 
KazeoHin said:
Noise is a good point. Custom loops are among the quietest setups you'll find, only really surpassed by true passive setups.

Noise (unless you are recording sound professionally) is an aesthetic thing, like the look of the system. It's one aspect to measure value, next to performance.
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This system has A LOT of fans, can't imagine it being quiet. It's a great build, especially for a first w/c. Though given the mount of effort and cost that went into w/c I tend to agree with some folks above that it probably would have made more sense to get a better cpu/mobo instead and perhaps just have a gpu loop. Heck for the cost of this loop it could have been a 3 way SLI.

Still, the system looks great so whatever make you happy! Just like computers cases that stuff is very subjective so not only performance is important. :)
 
zkostik said:
This system has A LOT of fans, can't imagine it being quiet. It's a great build, especially for a first w/c. Though given the mount of effort and cost that went into w/c I tend to agree with some folks above that it probably would have made more sense to get a better cpu/mobo instead and perhaps just have a gpu loop. Heck for the cost of this loop it could have been a 3 way SLI.

Still, the system looks great so whatever make you happy! Just like computers cases that stuff is very subjective so not only performance is important. :)
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More fans doesn't mean its not quiet. My WC'd system with 4x140 + 3x120 fans has the most fans I've ever put in a single machine. It is also the quietest system I've ever built because I am able to run all those fans slower and still maintain excellent temps. As far as cost goes... custom loops are not cost effective and anybody who has ever looked in to one knows this. Bringing it up is kind of a moot point... in fact, my loop probably cost me as much as my whole system, or damn close to it. You build a loop like this because it is cool, quiet, looks good, and is a fun project
 
Activate: AMD said:
More fans doesn't mean its not quiet. My WC'd system with 4x140 + 3x120 fans has the most fans I've ever put in a single machine. It is also the quietest system I've ever built because I am able to run all those fans slower and still maintain excellent temps. As far as cost goes... custom loops are not cost effective and anybody who has ever looked in to one knows this. Bringing it up is kind of a moot point... in fact, my loop probably cost me as much as my whole system, or damn close to it. You build a loop like this because it is cool, quiet, looks good, and is a fun project
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I'm sure results can vary but having more fans is going to create more noise, especially in push pull with a rad. I suppose with very low speeds it can be quiet but I'd question the effectiveness of such setup. So far temps don't really justify the effort but as far as looks, can't argue with that. Personally I haven't really bothered with w/c for a long time as it doesn't really help all that much. If you have a big case with large air cooler it's not to far off and you don't have to worry about leaks killing your $1000's in equipment. You can still have a working system even with a failed fan, different case with w/c.
 
zkostik said:
I'm sure results can vary but having more fans is going to create more noise, especially in push pull with a rad. I suppose with very low speeds it can be quiet but I'd question the effectiveness of such setup. So far temps don't really justify the effort but as far as looks, can't argue with that. Personally I haven't really bothered with w/c for a long time as it doesn't really help all that much. If you have a big case with large air cooler it's not to far off and you don't have to worry about leaks killing your $1000's in equipment. You can still have a working system even with a failed fan, different case with w/c.
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If you have 1 fan that can cool as effectively as 7 at the same speed, you're right... but the fact is that you won't. To reach a specific temp , if it takes 3 fans @ 40 dB or 10 fans at 25 dB, the 10 fans are going to be quieter, period. WC allows you to tune for both noise and cooling performance in a way air does not. You're going to have to take up a lot of space and money to reach that goal, but it is readily achievable. I have 600+ W of heat being dissipated in my system at very reasonable noise levels and my temps are excellent (OC'd 290X's with load temps <55C). I can tell that custom WC systems are not for you, but don't misrepresent their capabilities
 
exactly

edit: and wtf is with all the negative criticism?! if you don't have anything nice to say.... foff!
 
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