First Custom Loop

I was going to recommend 14cm mm as well. It's a good medium if you feel 12 is too small and 16 is too big. In an ITX build or even a mATX mini-tower then 14cm mm is probably your best option. 16 would look better in full ATX builds.

EDIT: This build from a Reddit post uses 16mm hardlines in the same case you have and I think it looks good. The ThermalTake Tower is probably large enough that the 16mm won't look oversized unlike in a SFF case such as the Meshlicious or Dan A4.
Also fixed cm to mm.
View attachment 489637
Been looking at that build lately.
 
A bit off topic, but why do hard tubing if they're going to make such sloppy bends?
A better question is how do you fill it? I've been trying to figure out how to get mine filled without a dedicated fill tube.
 
Been looking at that build lately.
It's a good one overall but I do have to agree with NightReaver that the hardlines are a little bit sloppy in the front. I'm not sure if there were some physical limitations that required things to be positioned and bent the way they are, or if it was just simply poorly planned or executed. I know nothing about hardlines so I can't criticize or pinpoint anything other than the slightly sloppy end result, which in my opinion isn't that bad because it still looks quite nice.
I definitely do prefer the smoother look of softlines, even a perfectly-executed hardline build sometimes looks odd with the sharp angles and bends. Simply personal preference.
 
A better question is how do you fill it? I've been trying to figure out how to get mine filled without a dedicated fill tube.
With a res you just fill it with either a fill bottle like this
https://www.titanrig.com/ekwb-filling-bottle-1000ml-05-50-ek-0101-01-on.html
That's what I've switched to.
Or you can use a large syringe with a piece of tubing attached, which is what I used to use when I was ultra anal about keeping track of the amount of liquid in my loop.
 
A better question is how do you fill it? I've been trying to figure out how to get mine filled without a dedicated fill tube.
1657149272311.png

see that fill port...
i use a tube stuck onto a funnel and jam it in there.
edit: now that ive looked closer thats the same pump i have, i just have the stubby res black version. was a steal when i bought it but i wish i got the taller one as the stubby sucks in air from the whirlpool...
 
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With my set up, the rez is on the bottom, the lowest point in the loop. The next highest is the block, then the rad mounted in the top. However, I'll not be cooling my graphics card, so mine is a much more simple piping.

This is pretty much how I envision the placement of my rez (which is the same as he is using), rad, and block. I'm going to use a more slim radiator,though. Isn't the only way to fill that is with an access point from the rad?

wkln1b9on8e71.jpg
 
With my set up, the rez is on the bottom, the lowest point in the loop. The next highest is the block, then the rad mounted in the top. However, I'll not be cooling my graphics card, so mine is a much more simple piping.

This is pretty much how I envision the placement of my rez (which is the same as he is using), rad, and block. I'm going to use a more slim radiator,though. Isn't the only way to fill that is with an access point from the rad?

View attachment 489669
this looks like a fill port with a "flush mount" plug. see the hex head spot?
1657151840089.png
 
this looks like a fill port with a "flush mount" plug. see the hex head spot?
View attachment 489679
"see the hex head spot?" Which pixel? lol. My radiator will be in the top. I have a thin 25mm rad picked out, two in fact, since one is no not available until after WW3. The radiator is going to be in the top agasint the case. How would I fill it like that? There has to be some sort of fill tube above the radiator?
 
1657157666791.png

hex, allen key, whatever you want to call them, thats whats at the center of those plugs. this is what youre using or planning right?
funnel and tube to one of the fill ports, long enough to be above the rad. thats how i filled mine. fill it, cycle it, fill it, cycle it, over and over with that tiny res... then when its flowing without draining, top it off and let it run open for a bit to let air out, then top it off. you could use a squeezy bottle like suggested before too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7MSDL...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 
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View attachment 489710
hex, allen key, whatever you want to call them, thats whats at the center of those plugs. this is what youre using or planning right?
funnel and tube to one of the fill ports, long enough to be above the rad. thats how i filled mine. fill it, cycle it, fill it, cycle it, over and over with that tiny res... then when its flowing without draining, top it off and let it run open for a bit to let air out, then top it off. you could use a squeezy bottle like suggested before too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7MSDL...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
That pump/rez is going to lying flat on the bottom of the case, not mounted on the radiator over the top. So the rez is going to be beneath both the block and the rad. Won't the water just run back down into the rez?
 
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That pump/rez is going to lying flat on the bottom of the case, not mounted on the radiator over the top. So the rez is going to be beneath both the block and the rad. Won't the water just run back down into the rez?
not all of it, a bunch will stay in the rads and tubes but thats why i used a long tube(with a fitting on it), just in case.
 
not all of it, a bunch will stay in the rads and tubes but thats why i used a long tube(with a fitting on it), just in case.
Where do you fill it, though? To get the rad full you need to have the fill valve at or above the rad itself. Then you have to be able seal the port, or keep the tube intact and seal the end of the tube?
 
Where do you fill it, though? To get the rad full you need to have the fill valve at or above the rad itself. Then you have to be able seal the port, or keep the tube intact and seal the end of the tube?
Once you start filling the reservoir and running the pump, it will begin to push the fluid up and around your loop. It will keep the fluid up and in the tubing/block/rad while your filling the loop. It doesn't matter where the res/pump is. Keep in mind the loop is pressurized and wont allow fluid back out. Its essentially like a straw with your finger pressed over one end once you start pumping fluid.
You really should watch a how to video to put things in perspective.
 
Once you start filling the reservoir and running the pump, it will begin to push the fluid up and around your loop. It will keep the fluid up and in the tubing/block/rad while your filling the loop. It doesn't matter where the res/pump is. Keep in mind the loop is pressurized and wont allow fluid back out. Its essentially like a straw with your finger pressed over one end once you start pumping fluid.
You really should watch a how to video to put things in perspective.
OK that makes more sense.
 
OK that makes more sense.
Fill the rez. Turn on the pump, pump the fluid into the loop. Turn off the pump when the rez gets close to empty so you don't run the pump dry. Rinse, repeat, till loop is full. Of course with a short rez this will take a bit longer. Also going to have allow the loop to dump all the tiny air bubbles into the rez and fill again. Just a longer process with a short rez.
 
Fill the rez. Turn on the pump, pump the fluid into the loop. Turn off the pump when the rez gets close to empty so you don't run the pump dry. Rinse, repeat, till loop is full. Of course with a short rez this will take a bit longer. Also going to have allow the loop to dump all the tiny air bubbles into the rez and fill again. Just a longer process with a short rez.
I'm using a 100 ml res and had a 360, two 240s, a CPU block, and a GPU block to fill along with lots of tubing. It really wasn't that bad and didn't take too long as the res is pretty high in the case and the pumps are mounted to the bottom of the case in the back below the rear mounted radiator. The first hop after the pumps is into the gpu block that fills from the top, so I didn't have an issue with "backwash" every time I turned off the pump (All new fans since this picture BTW).
computer update.jpg


The "backwash" I noticed in a prior version of this build was when the pump/res combo was at the bottom of the case. I had the EK distroplate in my Lian Li O11 Dynamic and was only cooling the CPU and had a single 360 rad at the top of the case. The fluid would run right back into the res when I turned off the pump before it could run dry. I had to tilt the case at a 45 degree angle while filling it. After a few on/off cycles with the pump, I was able to leave the pump on and just keep fluid flowing from my fill bottle into the fill port until it was close to full, while holding the case at 45 degrees.
 
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I'm using a 100 ml res and had a 360, two 240s, a CPU block, and a GPU block to fill along with lots of tubing. It really wasn't that bad and didn't take too long as the res is pretty high in the case and the pumps are mounted to the bottom of the case in the back below the rear mounted radiator. The first hop after the pumps is into the gpu block that fills from the top, so I didn't have an issue with "backwash" every time I turned off the pump (All new fans since this picture BTW).
View attachment 489855

The "backwash" I noticed in a prior version of this build was when the pump/res combo was at the bottom of the case. I had the EK distroplate in my Lian Li O11 Dynamic and was only cooling the CPU and had a single 360 rad at the top of the case. The fluid would run right back into the res when I turned off the pump before it could run dry. I had to tilt the case at a 45 degree angle while filling it. After a few on/off cycles with the pump, I was able to leave the pump on and just keep fluid flowing from my fill bottle into the fill port until it was close to full, while holding the case at 45 degrees.
This is the type of problem I was inquiring about, since my pump/rez combo will be beneath both the block and rad (and all I have is CPU cooling).
 
This is the type of problem I was inquiring about, since my pump/rez combo will be beneath both the block and rad (and all I have is CPU cooling).
Tilting the case was the ticket for me. Depending on the orientation of the inlets and outlets on the cpu block and radiator, it should allow them to hold on to the liquid a little better during the filling process. Shouldn't be a big deal. The pump isn't going to explode the second it runs dry, just pay attention and turn it off if/when it happens. I actually have a 12 volt power supply kind of like a laptop power supply that I modded the cables on. I can plug in a molex to sata adapter, a molex to molex adapter (gender bender), or a molex to 3 or 4 pin fan header. That will handle pretty much any pump out there. That way, I don't even have to mess with the ATX power supply when filling up the computer. I plug it into a power strip so that I have an on/off switch and it makes it pretty easy to have right there instead of having to reach around the computer to the power supply switch.
 
If you put a long tube with a temporary reservoir on the end on your reservoir fill port, that will make priming the pump and filling the loop much easier and less messy. You will have to be careful not to overfill it, or else there may be a bit of spillage as you try to disconnect it and close the port. If you put a valve on the fill port, you won't have to worry so much about the fluid coming out after filling, but you will still have to drain any residual fluid in the tube. Then you can either leave the valve and cap it, or try and swap it with a cap hopefully without a mess.
 
use a tube, fitting and funnel
ive explained it twice, now a third time, someone might need to go help him...
 
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use a tube, fitting and funnel
ive explained it twice, now a third time, someone might need to go help him...
That's because you don't first explain the fundamentals, like it is a pressure system that holds the liquid in stasis. What that means to me is that the pump is air tight, and liquid can't come back through the pump between shots into either the rad, tubing, or rez. Others have since explained that, and it makes sense. I thought the liquid just sloshed around until the pump put out enough pressure to move it, then back to slosh again, like a car water pump and radiator. So, I couldn't understand what you meant - the liquid would just come back out from the rez, after each fill, after the pump stopped. In fact, when I asked that very question, you said "not all of the liquid would run back out." That tells me it isn't a vacuum sealed system, and the liquid would run back into the rez.
 
That's because you don't first explain the fundamentals, like it is a pressure system that holds the liquid in stasis. What that means to me is that the pump is air tight, and liquid can't come back through the pump between shots into either the rad, tubing, or rez. Others have since explained that, and it makes sense. I thought the liquid just sloshed around until the pump put out enough pressure to move it, then back to slosh again, like a car water pump and radiator. So, I couldn't understand what you meant - the liquid would just come back out from the rez, after each fill, after the pump stopped. In fact, when I asked that very question, you said "not all of the liquid would run back out." That tells me it isn't a vacuum sealed system, and the liquid would run back into the rez.
sorry i didnt get technical enough, its not rocket surgery ;)
its not vacuum sealed either, it just stays where it is in the lines, block, rads etc.
 
sorry i didnt get technical enough, its not rocket surgery ;)
its not vacuum sealed either, it just stays where it is in the lines, block, rads etc.
No, not technically vacuum sealed, but you know what I mean: The liquid is help in place by a vacuum. I didn't understand that. I'm really not feeling a loop in this case, man. I'm having to sacrifice too much aesthetically just to get it in the case.
 
No, not technically vacuum sealed, but you know what I mean: The liquid is help in place by a vacuum. I didn't understand that. I'm really not feeling a loop in this case, man. I'm having to sacrifice too much aesthetically just to get it in the case.
you just need to do it and stop over thinking it. its really, really not that hard. put the res where you want it, attach a tube and funnel. fill, run the pump till just about empty, fill and repeat. when there is enough liquid to leave it running just top it off, let it bleed air for a while then top off again, remove the tube and seal it up. youre res has twice the capacity of mine, it will be like 3-4 cycles then leave it on.
 
you just need to do it and stop over thinking it. its really, really not that hard. put the res where you want it, attach a tube and funnel. fill, run the pump till just about empty, fill and repeat. when there is enough liquid to leave it running just top it off, let it bleed air for a while then top off again, remove the tube and seal it up. youre res has twice the capacity of mine, it will be like 3-4 cycles then leave it on.
It's not that. I can get that done. It's purely that I'm constantly sacrificing my mind's eye as to how I want it to look. I have to be realistic about the design aesthetics, and honest with myself. I really do want it to work.

Also, I'm wondering how one 120mm thin radiator will cool, given that I can't get a fan in the bottom with the rez there. I'm not even sure a fan in the bottom pan draws air in the from the outside.
 
It's not that. I can get that done. It's purely that I'm constantly sacrificing my mind's eye as to how I want it to look. I have to be realistic about the design aesthetics, and honest with myself. I really do want it to work.

Also, I'm wondering how one 120mm thin radiator will cool, given that I can't get a fan in the bottom with the rez there. I'm not even sure a fan in the bottom pan draws air in the from the outside.
I have a wild idea that you may or may not like. If all you're cooling is the CPU, might you consider a combined CPU block/pump? You would not need to worry about mounting a reservoir, obstructing any vents for airflow, etc. Look at something like this or this for example.
 
I have a wild idea that you may or may not like. If all you're cooling is the CPU, might you consider a combined CPU block/pump? You would not need to worry about mounting a reservoir, obstructing any vents for airflow, etc. Look at something like this or this for example.
Actually, I was looking at the EK offering. I'd still want a rez though, which kinda defeats the purpose, becasue it's only going to be a 120mm rad :( It's a good idea though having an AIO like setup, but custom tubing.
 
Actually, I was looking at the EK offering. I'd still want a rez though, which kinda defeats the purpose, becasue it's only going to be a 120mm rad :( It's a good idea though having an AIO like setup, but custom tubing.
You have plenty of space for a reservoir so you can do that if you prefer. With a consistent radiator, using larger or smaller reservoirs (or none, opting for a CPU block/pump and possibly routing the tubes longer to contain a higher volume of coolant) is debated as to whether it makes a substantial, modest, or no difference at all. Some argue that higher volume keeps the fluid temperatures lower as there is more to absorb the heat from the CPU. Others argue that it simply takes a longer time for the fluid to reach equilibrium and stabilize at a certain temperature, and then longer to cool down once CPU loads reduce or go to idle. I can't speak from experience, so I will defer to others to share their findings. It may or may not matter to you, and ultimately it comes down to your preference.
Related to your case airflow: if you don't want to restrict airflow from the bottom then don't bottom mount a reservoir. Get one that looks good on the side, your case is designed to show off the components anyway. If you put a fan on the bottom, you'll help pull cool air in. This may not be super important ordinarily, because the case is designed for slightly negative pressure or pull (with a top and rear fan for exhaust and passively drawing air in from the front and side vents). But with the radiator mounted on the top, that's going to restrict (to a degree) some of the hot air from inside the case from being pulled out. Adding a bottom fan as intake should help bring some cool air into the case to assist with GPU cooling, and to a lesser extent MB/RAM heat sinks, as well as quite indirectly helping with your custom loop.
The ThermalTake 100 is quite a nice case, but the cooling options out of the box are not incredibly ideal if going for water. Some case modifications can definitely be done to set up much more in terms of radiator support, extra fans, etc. but by default the top should have had support for a 140mm radiator if nothing else. It supports 140mm fans, so the limit of 120 for a top-mounted rad is a flaw in my opinion.
 
You have plenty of space for a reservoir so you can do that if you prefer. With a consistent radiator, using larger or smaller reservoirs (or none, opting for a CPU block/pump and possibly routing the tubes longer to contain a higher volume of coolant) is debated as to whether it makes a substantial, modest, or no difference at all. Some argue that higher volume keeps the fluid temperatures lower as there is more to absorb the heat from the CPU. Others argue that it simply takes a longer time for the fluid to reach equilibrium and stabilize at a certain temperature, and then longer to cool down once CPU loads reduce or go to idle. I can't speak from experience, so I will defer to others to share their findings. It may or may not matter to you, and ultimately it comes down to your preference.
Related to your case airflow: if you don't want to restrict airflow from the bottom then don't bottom mount a reservoir. Get one that looks good on the side, your case is designed to show off the components anyway. If you put a fan on the bottom, you'll help pull cool air in. This may not be super important ordinarily, because the case is designed for slightly negative pressure or pull (with a top and rear fan for exhaust and passively drawing air in from the front and side vents). But with the radiator mounted on the top, that's going to restrict (to a degree) some of the hot air from inside the case from being pulled out. Adding a bottom fan as intake should help bring some cool air into the case to assist with GPU cooling, and to a lesser extent MB/RAM heat sinks, as well as quite indirectly helping with your custom loop.
The ThermalTake 100 is quite a nice case, but the cooling options out of the box are not incredibly ideal if going for water. Some case modifications can definitely be done to set up much more in terms of radiator support, extra fans, etc. but by default the top should have had support for a 140mm radiator if nothing else. It supports 140mm fans, so the limit of 120 for a top-mounted rad is a flaw in my opinion.
Damn right it should have had room for a 140mm rad in the top. Horrible oversight. The bottom mount for the fan doesn't pull air in from the outside. It's not connected to any air outside of the case. The best it can do is act like a mixer to mix or blow air internal upwards. The rez on the bottom doesn't block airflow at all. It's just not designed like that. Plus their is plenty of air holes in that bottom pan and around the side of it. It's like the bottom fan mount is mounted internally, without access to outside air. The back and top will definitely get 140mm fans.

I really want to do it, but again, 550.00.00 bucks or so gets me an entirely new 5600G, Corsair RMX 650, 32GB RGB RAM, plus an AIO to go in the new case. Going to have to really think about this.
 
Damn right it should have had room for a 140mm rad in the top. Horrible oversight. The bottom mount for the fan doesn't pull air in from the outside. It's not connected to any air outside of the case. The best it can do is act like a mixer to mix or blow air internal upwards. The rez on the bottom doesn't block airflow at all. It's just not designed like that. Plus their is plenty of air holes in that bottom pan and around the side of it. It's like the bottom fan mount is mounted internally, without access to outside air. The back and top will definitely get 140mm fans.

I really want to do it, but again, 550.00.00 bucks or so gets me an entirely new 5600G, Corsair RMX 650, 32GB RGB RAM, plus an AIO to go in the new case. Going to have to really think about this.
Interesting. I don't physically have the case but I looked closely at photos and the manual and it looked like it would pull some air from the lower side vents up through the PSU shroud and into the main chamber. In that case, a bottom mounted reservoir would be okay, but then again-- it's quite expensive to simply cool a CPU alone. Not that price isn't a reason to do it if you want, but like you mentioned, getting a new 5600G and a much simpler AIO to cool it, along with other goodies, makes that option much more cost-effective. There are some very impressive builds in the TT 100, but the case just isn't well-designed for custom cooling without some considerable modification, and even 120mm AIO cooling isn't a good option for heavily overclocked, i7-i9 or Ryzen 7/9 CPUs. A 5600G can more easily be cooled with a 120, but still not ideal. There are other cases that are better designed for custom loops-- including TT's own Tower 900 (much larger). Few ITX cases are designed to support a property sized radiator to cool high-powered CPUs and/or GPUs without extensive mods.
I don't want to discourage you, though, so if you're up for the challenge and want to make something that's completely your own design and look, do a custom loop. If you want something practical, easy to put together, and a system to get up and running quickly, go with an AIO.
 
Interesting. I don't physically have the case but I looked closely at photos and the manual and it looked like it would pull some air from the lower side vents up through the PSU shroud and into the main chamber. In that case, a bottom mounted reservoir would be okay, but then again-- it's quite expensive to simply cool a CPU alone. Not that price isn't a reason to do it if you want, but like you mentioned, getting a new 5600G and a much simpler AIO to cool it, along with other goodies, makes that option much more cost-effective. There are some very impressive builds in the TT 100, but the case just isn't well-designed for custom cooling without some considerable modification, and even 120mm AIO cooling isn't a good option for heavily overclocked, i7-i9 or Ryzen 7/9 CPUs. A 5600G can more easily be cooled with a 120, but still not ideal. There are other cases that are better designed for custom loops-- including TT's own Tower 900 (much larger). Few ITX cases are designed to support a property sized radiator to cool high-powered CPUs and/or GPUs without extensive mods.
I don't want to discourage you, though, so if you're up for the challenge and want to make something that's completely your own design and look, do a custom loop. If you want something practical, easy to put together, and a system to get up and running quickly, go with an AIO.
I'm mainly wanting to build a custom loop for aesthetics only. I'm not at all into OCing (last time I was into that was back in the early X58/i7 920 days, circa 2008). Just don't care about that anymore. I'm using a 240 version of the Enemax Aquafusion to cool my 3600, and it does it effortlessly, and mostly silently. That's in my OP post. Since 120mm AIOs are becoming endangered, I'd go with the same Enermax Aquafusion 120, in white, of course, since it is still available. Then make solder up some custom strips, like I did in my current build.

I haven't decided yet, but currently still leaning towards the loop :) Damn that shit is so expensive. I like this air build. I'd use an acrylic spacer in the top to get the TT ARGB fan down and visible, but other than that, it looks good for a start. I like how the fans line up vertically. Still lots to be done on that build, but the basics are tight.

1xdplgx259t61.jpg
 
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I'm about ready to pull the trigger on these items, but stock on everything is really low. I'll have to go to Titanrigs website to get the block and Performace pcs to get a radiator. There are almost zero 120mm x 28mm white radiators in stock currently, anywhere, and the same for this block in white, or even black.

Barrowch AMD CPU water Block with HDMI display screen FBLTHDA-04N V2
pum;l.jpg


I wanted this in the PrimoChill version, but PrimoChill website - no stock. So I found what looks like the exact same thing in Barrow:
Barrow Dabel-a series Radiator 28mm thick - 120mm - White
o1cn01fa0utx1bhfk6luvvl__2730853497.webp
 
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on these items, but stock on everything is really low. I'll have to go to Titanrigs website to get the block and Performace pcs to get a radiator. There are almost zero 120mm x 28mm white radiators in stock currently, anywhere, and the same for this block in white, or even black.

Barrowch AMD CPU water Block with HDMI display screen FBLTHDA-04N V2
View attachment 492123

I wanted this in the PrimoChill version, but PrimoChill website - no stock. So I found what looks like the exact same thing in Barrow:
Barrow Dabel-a series Radiator 28mm thick - 120mm - White
o1cn01fa0utx1bhfk6luvvl__2730853497.webp
Never seen that block before.
Primochill rads aren't very effective so you dodged one there. I do remember that barrow rads are supposed to be all copper but thats about all I recall.
 
Never seen that block before.
Primochill rads aren't very effective so you dodged one there. I do remember that barrow rads are supposed to be all copper but thats about all I recall.
They both look exactly the same, like they were made in the same factory. Only a couple of those blocks available anywhere in Acrylic/silver. Really low stock due to China's Covid lock down I guess. Two downsdies to the screen, I think it's TN but not sure. Still trying verify that. It's TFT, so it could be TN, IPS, or VA. I think, from the very, very few Youtube videos of it that it's the improved TN, but still a TN. It looks pretty decent though. The other downside is that instead of using a USB C for both HDMI and power, they chose to use an HDMI and a USB connection for power. That thing probably uses like a half a nano-watt. Still, three cables going to it, HDMI, USB, and ARGB. It comes with built in AIDA64 preset skins, or you can use it as an extended monitor wiht something different from you main monitor. I guess you could play micro porn on it -- lol.



Picture of the PrimoChill.
51hU3GdisXL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Now that I look at it, not exactly alike, really. PrimoChill actually looks better with the cropped corners. But PrimoChill is x2 vs Barrow.

Barrow:
BARROW Dabel-28A series radiators are a high density copper radiator and measure in at 28mm thick. Waterways pure copper material, water chamber brass, stainless steel fan mounting bracket, using 14 high-density single waterway wave fin design
 
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I'm about ready to pull the trigger on these items, but stock on everything is really low. I'll have to go to Titanrigs website to get the block and Performace pcs to get a radiator. There are almost zero 120mm x 28mm white radiators in stock currently, anywhere, and the same for this block in white, or even black.

Barrowch AMD CPU water Block with HDMI display screen FBLTHDA-04N V2
View attachment 492123

I wanted this in the PrimoChill version, but PrimoChill website - no stock. So I found what looks like the exact same thing in Barrow:
Barrow Dabel-a series Radiator 28mm thick - 120mm - White
o1cn01fa0utx1bhfk6luvvl__2730853497.webp
My guess is that there aren't many 120mm x 28mm rads even produced. That is a pretty niche market. Effective water cooling really starts at 240mm. I know that your case is very specific. Good luck.
 
My guess is that there aren't many 120mm x 28mm rads even produced. That is a pretty niche market. Effective water cooling really starts at 240mm. I know that your case is very specific. Good luck.
120mm is definitely on the lag. However, up until a few weeks ago, they were there. There are a lot of them, actually, just not in white and low stock across the board. The companies are making them, but the new Covid lock down and China Covid spread is once again restricting products.
 
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Anyone have a link to a radiator review that does a PSI test for flow restrictions and cooling? One reviewer on Amazon said his Barrow radiator was full of metal and he had to flush it like 13 times to finally get everything out of it. Very unimpressive.

Anyone heard of this brand:

Dracaena​

https://www.amazon.com/Osprey-Computer-Radiator-Copper-Cooling/dp/B08P18KX1V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=alphacool+120mm+radiator&qid=1657938542&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRDNaMDVWWFdGMllYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODg2NTIwMjVYMlpUMFRVRUkxUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjI5ODQ3VFVGUTRXUjFRSjhLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
If he flushed a 120 13 times he's doing something way way wrong.
Even if it we're packed full of sand it wouldn't take that much to clean a 120. He's full of shi...sand hahaha. Ignore the troll and move on.
Seriously tho, flushing a brand spankin new 120 rad should only take 2 to 3 rounds at worst and that's pushing it. You'll see what I'm sating when you do yours.

There's only one cat left that does proper wcing reviews and that's VSG at techpowerup.
Heres a link to his last one.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/ek-quantum-surface-s360-radiator/

My advice, don't buy off brand amazonian rads. They are guaranteed to disappoint.
Wait for a quality rad to come back in stock or get the best, a Hardwarelabs gts and spray it, not the fins.
 
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If he flushed a 120 13 times he's doing something way way wrong.
Even if it we're packed full of sand it wouldn't take that much to clean a 120. He's full of shi...sand hahaha. Ignore the troll and move on.
Seriously tho, flushing a brand spankin new 120 rad should only take 2 to 3 rounds at worst and that's pushing it. You'll see what I'm sating when you do yours.

There's only one cat left that does proper wcing reviews and that's VSG at techpowerup.
Heres a link to his last one.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/ek-quantum-surface-s360-radiator/

My advice, don't buy off brand amazonian rads. They are guaranteed to disappoint.
Wait for a quality rad to come back in stock or get the best, a Hardwarelabs gts and spray it, not the fins.
I'll probably just go with the Barrow. Thanks for the link.
 
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