Everex XT5000T Support thread

Don't get too excited, your happy quiet fan situation will not continue. I don't know how to reproduce it, boo hoo. I don't believe anyone has found a program or a way to control the fan through software yet.

I was starting to get game crashes on Civ4 which I was trying ... you wouldn't think it would be challenging but ... So I upped the vcore from 8x9 to 8x9.25 and it worked. Maybe what you were doing at the moment is somehow challenging the cpu and a tad more vcore is needed. Just a thought.

When I was testing the 8x9 it passed OCCT 30 minutes. I would normally have also done 8 hours minimum of Orthos or dual prime but didn't want the heat. So apparently I was a little shy of vcore for stability ... at least Civ4 stability.

I did have a BSOD today while surfing which is something new. Like you, I hope it is a fluke. It is the only one I have had besides one while playing Civ4 before up volting.
 
Syngensmyth said:
Don't get too excited, your happy quiet fan situation will not continue. I don't know how to reproduce it, boo hoo. I don't believe anyone has found a program or a way to control the fan through software yet.

I was starting to get game crashes on Civ4 which I was trying ... you wouldn't think it would be challenging but ... So I upped the vcore from 8x9 to 8x9.25 and it worked. Maybe what you were doing at the moment is somehow challenging the cpu and a tad more vcore is needed. Just a thought.

When I was testing the 8x9 it passed OCCT 30 minutes. I would normally have also done 8 hours minimum of Orthos or dual prime but didn't want the heat. So apparently I was a little shy of vcore for stability ... at least Civ4 stability.

I did have a BSOD today while surfing which is something new. Like you, I hope it is a fluke. It is the only one I have had besides one while playing Civ4 before up volting.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with stability tests. The voltage that was stable for me during testing proved to be too low in real-world usage (i.e. playing games). It's possible the extra heat generated by the GPU destabilizes the CPU, making it require slightly higher voltages. Just a theory.

I was able to tinker a bit with the fan thru NHC, but only so much as to be able to adjust the trigger points set in ACPI -- off, low, and "high" (which unfortunately is not full blast). Also remember the temps you see in RMClock are not the same temps used by ACPI to adjust fan speeds; those temps can be as much as 10C higher.
 
I am experiencing random shut downs. The kind where the computer just "bang" shuts down like power plug is pulled with no battery. This happened one day last week 3 times and just happened again now. Not doing anything but surfing. Core temps high 50's. Battery out.

My core temp and diode temp are very close:

090920070843amvn0.png


These shut downs are bad news because I find this type of problem very hard to trace down because there are so many possible problems. Power supply is a common cause for one.

WillyWanker, do you have a post on just how you were "able to tinker a bit with the fan thru NHC."
 
Maybe you should put the battery back in and see if the problem persists. If it's a power issue the battery should stop the lappy from shutting down. If it still craps out with the battery in then you know it's not power-related.

I never made a full post about altering fan triggers with NHC, cause the few times I mentioned it no one seemed interested. I wrote an ACPI control script for NHC using one I found for the Amilo as a template. Once you have that NHC compiles it into a dll and gives you access to 6 values you can alter that will in turn alter the trigger points. It's not a direct relationship, there is some kind of formula that calculates the trigger temps, but it's easy enough to play around with the values till you get the temp you want.
 
I will have to do the battery thing ... just started chasing the problem around.

I remember your post but was not able to follow it very well (I may need pictures:D). If you wish to elaborate I am interested. If I could drop some of the trigger temps for even lower speed fan operation, it would be great.
 
Syngensmyth said:
I will have to do the battery thing ... just started chasing the problem around.

I remember your post but was not able to follow it very well (I may need pictures:D). If you wish to elaborate I am interested. If I could drop some of the trigger temps for even lower speed fan operation, it would be great.
Click to expand...

Well I'd be happy to share my NHC ACPI control files with you if there were a way to upload a file. Can anyone suggest a good free file-sharing site I can use?
 
Hi,
I lost my interest in NHC for two reasons.

1.) NHC does not really control the hardware. It tricks the temperature to be a value that isn't the real value to achieve the control.

2.) My issues with video locking up and not responding seem to be solved. I can run RMClock without issue now, at least so far.

It appears the Wireless was locking up IRQ 18 that is shared with the 7600 go. I reverted back the driver to the 3/17/07 version from MS and the system seems much happier.

I ran Prime95 for 12 hours at 1.050 and never saw above 92C with the TL-64. At stock 1.100 it went over 96C easily. At 1.075 it never went over 96C, the CPU will never see that stress so that is where I run just to be sure there ar no issues as 1.025 causes Prime95 to stop.
 
TANWare said:
Hi,
1.) NHC does not really control the hardware. It tricks the temperature to be a value that isn't the real value to achieve the control.
Click to expand...

I don't know what you mean here. When you use NHC to control ACPI, meaning you have a working control file, you are changing the actual ACPI values that Windows creates every time you start the OS. Windows reads the ACPI values from the BIOS and stores them. NHC then allows you to alter the stored settings. There is no chance to cause any kind of damage as these settings are temporary; as soon as you reboot they are reset to the default values in the BIOS.

So when I change the temperature values used to determine fan trigger points it's not "tricking" anything -- I'm actually changing the values. I'm not changing the reading from the temperature diode, or forcing it to be a value that it shouldn't be. I'm just altering the base values that are used to calculate the trigger points.
 
Hi,
If you read their tutorial you will see what it does, it reads the base temp then on that basis writes the temperature stored for the acpi function to fool the acpi into doing what it wants........

now on our machines the classes made for the may be read/write but apparently on the original machine they used this for they aren't. They are not just passively changing the triger temps originally read from the bios/cpu.

Now triger temps are set citeria so you wouldn't think the ACPI would get then refreshed like they do the temperature readings. This may be why the methods/objects for the triggers are set as read only.
 
TANWare said:
Hi,
If you read their tutorial you will see what it does, it reads the base temp then on that basis writes the temperature stored for the acpi function to fool the acpi into doing what it wants........

now on our machines the classes made for the may be read/write but apparently on the original machine they used this for they aren't. They are not just passively changing the triger temps originally read from the bios/cpu.

Now triger temps are set citeria so you wouldn't think the ACPI would get then refreshed like they do the temperature readings. This may be why the methods/objects for the triggers are set as read only.
Click to expand...
I do not understand your objection. Are you saying it does not work or are you saying it can be harmful?
 
It works, no doubt, the way it works can be harmful. That isn't saying any method of going about this can't be harmfull, they all can. I just object to an extra layer that can go astray. This method is akin to programatically putting your finger over the check engine light in your car in my opinion.

Problem is though it isn't your finger and the check engine light isn't on steady just at times. While 99.99% of the time it may be fully safe I have full confidence that I'll be the in that 0.01% group.
 
The proper way is to re-do the Thermalzone and fan drivers. I was going to do it but found it wasn't the ACPI causing my issues but the wireless card driver.

The 7/2007 Vista MS drvier does not include a power management tab. I am sure they did something wrong and since RTCore.sys, and other programs, try and manipulate the power management it was causing even more issues with the card and it saturating irq 18. So now that I reverted the driver and I'm 100% stable with RMClock using RTCore32.sys I am happy for now...........:D

I searched for every known issue anyone else has ever had and fully investigated them all. The system would get bettr and sometimes worse but never fully cured. I have a real good feeling it is now but I could never before prove it was the wireless as the lockup lost the video and I couldn't check out the card. And it almost always happened when I was away (POWER SAVER TRYING TO SET IN).....................:mad:
 
TANWare said:
It works, no doubt, the way it works can be harmful. That isn't saying any method of going about this can't be harmfull, they all can. I just object to an extra layer that can go astray. This method is akin to programatically putting your finger over the check engine light in your car in my opinion.

Problem is though it isn't your finger and the check engine light isn't on steady just at times. While 99.99% of the time it may be fully safe I have full confidence that I'll be the in that 0.01% group.
Click to expand...

Well, you are entitled to your opinion, but I really don't think you're understanding this correctly.

The BIOS is programmed to allow ACPI-aware OSs to exert a limited amount of control over hardware functions. The amount of control is completely specific for each model. For us, the only thing we can adjust is the fan speed from off, to low, to "high" (and again, I say "high" as there are only 2 speeds, but "high" is not even close to full blast). Even though there are other values in ACPI that we can alter, the BIOS ignores requests from Windows to make those changes. A perfect example is the throttle temperature. You can change the value in ACPI, and Windows will send a control request thru ACPI to the BIOS whenever that temp is met, but the BIOS ignores it and will always throttle the system at the default temp (78C).

The BIOS is programmed to allow ACPI to control the 2 set fan speeds ("active cooling 1" and "active cooling 0") but not the throttle temp ("passive cooling") nor the shutdown temp ("critical temp"). And that's it. There are no other controls in ACPI in regard to the thermal zone, fan speed, or fan control.

I assume this is done as a safety measure. Even if you muck around with the ACPI tables and completely bork both active cooling triggers the system will always throttle down at 78C to protect itself. Should that fail to keep the system cool, the BIOS will force a system shutdown should the temp reach critical.

Considering that the throttle and critical temperatures are fixed and that any changes you make to the Windows ACPI tables are reset the next time you boot, I simply don't see how it would be possible to harm the system in any way.
 
TANWare said:
The proper way is to re-do the Thermalzone and fan drivers.
Click to expand...

/em Willy bangs head against the wall...

NO. There is no other software-based way, proper or otherwise. You cannot "re-do" the Thermal Zone or rewrite fan drivers. All of these values are stored in the BIOS, and all control is either restricted or granted by the BIOS. There is no way you'll be able to write a driver that will force to BIOS to do something it wouldn't do thru ACPI. The limitations aren't in the ACPI drivers, the limitation is in the BIOS.

The only way you're going to get more control of thermal zone functions is to hack the BIOS.
 
The basic config instructions are found here, at the bottom http://www.everexforum.com/forum/index.php?a=topic&t=5387#p5

After you adjust the low/high values for the trigger you want to change, use the "view ACPI" function to see what the trigger temps calculate to. Remember, only active cooling 1 (off to low) and active cooling 0 (low to high) will have any effect.

Tho it loathes me to use the Yahoo Briefcase, it's the easiest as I have a yahoo account.
acpi.rar

Put the files in the acpi folder inside the NHC folder. Launch NHC and go to the ACPI tab and enable ACPI control.
 
WillyWanker said:
The basic config instructions are found here, at the bottom http://www.everexforum.com/forum/index.php?a=topic&t=5387#p5

After you adjust the low/high values for the trigger you want to change, use the "view ACPI" function to see what the trigger temps calculate to. Remember, only active cooling 1 (off to low) and active cooling 0 (low to high) will have any effect.

Tho it loathes me to use the Yahoo Briefcase, it's the easiest as I have a yahoo account.
acpi.rar

Put the files in the acpi folder inside the NHC folder. Launch NHC and go to the ACPI tab and enable ACPI control.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but briefcase says no folder is shared.
 
OK got the files, now I have to figure out what to do with them.
1. are you running both RMClock and NHC?
2. I have not used NHC for anything but to look at it once. Does NHC call one or both of the files you made?
 
Syngensmyth said:
OK got the files, now I have to figure out what to do with them.
1. are you running both RMClock and NHC?
2. I have not used NHC for anything but to look at it once. Does NHC call one or both of the files you made?
Click to expand...

I am not using NHC. My intent was to try and gain control over fan speeds to be able to make it spin faster, not turn on earlier. Since that can't be done, I really don't have a need for it. But when I was using it, yes, I had both NHC and RMClock running at the same time. Just make sure that you don't try and control power profiles in both programs. Since NHC can't adjust voltages, stick with RMClock for voltage/power control, and NHC for fan control.

When you start NHC it reads the manufacturer and model data from the BIOS and then scans the files in the ACPI folder for a match. If it finds a match it then compiles the .cs file into a .dll that it uses to control ACPI. Once the .dll is made you'll be able to activate ACPI control, otherwise it will be greyed out.
 
Hi,
Just so you know about how a driver can be made to do what you are now doing with NHC here is a link to start you off. http://msdn2.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ms789255.aspx , I understand it is a huge task and would be machine specific but it is what I was looking to do as a last resort.
Now as you said limitations are still to the ACPI unless you build a driver like RTCore32.sys but add setting values to the driver tab. This essentially would allow the bios hacks needed by a WDM driver (IE throttle locking). Again something I was not looking to do by reinventing the wheel (RTCore32.sys).
As said before, I no longer have the need so while I have the WDK I have no present plans to do any of this. Since the class items are writable you probably cold set them in the registry as well but then you would also need to play with the values. If you already have an idea of the ranges, a small VB app could be made to read and set them in registry that doesn’t have to run all the time.
A further note is the control mechanism for the fan only seems to allow the fan to churn up high when it is disabled. Once initialized after bios post it slows down. Now there may be an ignored setting from the bios programmers but we have yet to see that.
 
hi all,

this is a silly question but it bugs me when I read those posts about battery xD
why should we let the battery in safe storage at 70% but not 100% ? :D

also another question, why do I always have 80+ percent of CPU load? I literally have nothing running =|
should I flash the bios to solve this problem?

CPUload.png


systemtray.png
 
Jason Bourne said:
hi all,

this is a silly question but it bugs me when I read those posts about battery xD
why should we let the battery in safe storage at 70% but not 100% ? :D

also another question, why do I always have 80+ percent of CPU load? I literally have nothing running =|
should I flash the bios to solve this problem?
Click to expand...

Hi,
LiPo tech batteries is arugable on storage technique. Store it with at least 70% charge though is a best bet.

If you flash the bios it will, from what most people experience, get rid of the CPU load.
 
thank you Tanware for your quick reply
so it won't hurt to store at 100% I guess

anyway, how do you flash the bios again? xD
I don't do RAID so this is the version I need right? (from the Everex website)
I'm using Windows XP pro though

BIOS (432KB): Update allows BIOS to recognize 4GB memory configuration for Vista 64bit edition. Includes files ficflash.com, flashabl.rom, p.bat, phlash16.exe. Revision C.1C, dated 6/28/2007. (original BIOS version 1.1A)
Click to expand...

I've read the help file but not really sure I got it right >_>
basically we need to boot into DOS and run those 4 files? can I use a bootable CD instead of a bootable USB? cause I don't know how to make one xD

thank you all for your help
 
Jason Bourne said:
thank you Tanware for your quick reply
so it won't hurt to store at 100% I guess
Click to expand...

Going from 100% to 70% takes about 15 mins. Do you really want to do something that's going to have a negative impact on an already sub-par battery?

anyway, how do you flash the bios again? xD
I don't do RAID so this is the version I need right? (from the Everex website)
I'm using Windows XP pro though
Click to expand...

Yes, v C.1C is what you want.

I've read the help file but not really sure I got it right >_>
basically we need to boot into DOS and run those 4 files? can I use a bootable CD instead of a bootable USB? cause I don't know how to make one xD
Click to expand...

Yup, boot off a CD and run the file p.bat.
 
thank you WW, I will try to flash my bios this weekend. Wish me luck ^.^

oh about the battery, what I was planning to do is to charge the battery to 100% and take it out, put it into storage. After that, take it out once a week or so with the plug in AC adapter so it won't drain all out.

I meant what the negative impact were you talking about by charging to 100 instead of 70?
I'm sorry but I think I just got confused again lol xD
 
Jason Bourne said:
thank you WW, I will try to flash my bios this weekend. Wish me luck ^.^

oh about the battery, what I was planning to do is to charge the battery to 100% and take it out, put it into storage. After that, take it out once a week or so with the plug in AC adapter so it won't drain all out.

I meant what the negative impact were you talking about by charging to 100 instead of 70?
I'm sorry but I think I just got confused again lol xD
Click to expand...

Well I'm no battery expert, and have stated previously I'm clueless when it comes to battery care. I can only point you here for what I've seen suggested. Why not store it at 100%? I have no clue, just repeating what I've read. Since the Amilo is a very close cousin to our Everex, it seemed like a good starting point for me.
 
WillyWanker said:
Well I'm no battery expert, and have stated previously I'm clueless when it comes to battery care. I can only point you here for what I've seen suggested. Why not store it at 100%? I have no clue, just repeating what I've read. Since the Amilo is a very close cousin to our Everex, it seemed like a good starting point for me.
Click to expand...

Hi,
I am no expert but also use different battery technologies for my other hobby E-flight RC. Lipo's are fine storing 100% so long as it is a true 100%. Lipo's don't leak like NiCad or NiMh so there isn't those issues.

The problem can lie in that some chargers try and top charge a lipo actually bringing it above 100%, this is not good for storage and especially not good for continued use under these circumstances. The reason for 70% is then the cells usualy are at 3.6 to 3.5 volts rather than an attempt to store the at a top charge of 4.2 volts a cell. While this can be done it does take a toll on the battery but most chargers, on a lap top anyway, will not top charge the cells.

The other concern is if there is a bad cell. but that is an entire different story. but say it as if the battery is good 100% won't hurt just not help. 70% can help if there are concerns you are unaware of. Since we do not have individual cell taps or chargers or ballancers etc. there is alot that can go wrong without our knowledge.

EDIT: my personal choice is to leave mine in. while this will cause premature ware of the battery it also acts as a built in UPS. Guess I'll at some point just need to get an extra,hopefully extended life, battery.
 
I have to leave mine in ... it will randomly shut down without the battery. I suppose this means I have a flaky PSU. At least it has not shut down yet with the bat in (cross fingers).

I wonder if Everex will refuse warranty on the PSU because I put A5 on the CPU. LOL

Edit: This forum is painfully slow loading.

Anyone else have slow USB function? My thumb drives are worse than USB 1 speed.
 
Hi,
My USB speeds seem fine. Then again I only use Cruzer drives, they always seem fast.
 
Syngensmyth said:
I have to leave mine in ... it will randomly shut down without the battery. I suppose this means I have a flaky PSU. At least it has not shut down yet with the bat in (cross fingers).

I wonder if Everex will refuse warranty on the PSU because I put A5 on the CPU. LOL

Edit: This forum is painfully slow loading.

Anyone else have slow USB function? My thumb drives are worse than USB 1 speed.
Click to expand...
I posted earlier about my prob w/USB drives. They ask for drivers each time a new one is installed. My home PC doesn't do that. It sucks, when you're trying to use USB drives for what they were intended (quick file xfers), and you have to wait for 3 drivers to install before use.

-bZj
 
Down8 said:
I posted earlier about my prob w/USB drives. They ask for drivers each time a new one is installed. My home PC doesn't do that. It sucks, when you're trying to use USB drives for what they were intended (quick file xfers), and you have to wait for 3 drivers to install before use.

-bZj
Click to expand...

This is normal if you keep using a different port. It shouldn't happen if you always use the same device in the same port.
 
Can anyone assist me in the upgrade of my XT5000 to a RAID configuration? I have 2 matching Dell SATA 7200 rpm drives and have downloaded the SATA bios upgrade and the RAID bios update. I followed the directions supplied on the site...I even have a USB FDD to use, but the problem is when you make the disk bootable and try to load the new BIOS file, there's not enough disk space. I tried using a USB flashdrive which holds the info, and is recognized by the computer, but I can't get it to flash. Anyone able to give me a step by step installation guide....I have no problems with regular computers, but this laptop is kicking my ass:D Any help would be appreciated.
 
Hi,
does the usb thumb drive have enough free space for the bios? I am not sure but the bios write may need space for almost every block so there may need to be a huge amount of free space.

EDIT: a usb fdd may not have the free space to disk..........

Wen I did mine I used the power 2 go and created a bootable free-dos cd and flashed from there on the x: drive but this does not save the original bios........
 
I have Cyberlink Power2Go and several new 2GB Flashdrives, but I would really like to have a backup of the original BIOS just in case. Is there any way to follow the EverEx directions at all...I can't make heads or tails of what they are trying to explain.
 
I am not sure if you can get free dos to recognize the usb, but if so the drive must be like FAT formated, not sure if fat 16 or 32 will do. I always NTFS my usb drives so I have nothing to test out for you.

Would be nice if Everex would get the original bios out there for us, but to be safe I'd created one for the c1c bios version, that should be safe and non raid too.

Edit: you can ask around as several people have ahad luck with the windows flasher from the Amilo and some mods. I haven't tried myself but look back on the posts there is infomation here.........
 
AlterEgo said:
Can anyone assist me in the upgrade of my XT5000 to a RAID configuration? I have 2 matching Dell SATA 7200 rpm drives and have downloaded the SATA bios upgrade and the RAID bios update. I followed the directions supplied on the site...I even have a USB FDD to use, but the problem is when you make the disk bootable and try to load the new BIOS file, there's not enough disk space. I tried using a USB flashdrive which holds the info, and is recognized by the computer, but I can't get it to flash. Anyone able to give me a step by step installation guide....I have no problems with regular computers, but this laptop is kicking my ass:D Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

From the Everex site:
How to Flash a BIOS.

1. Obtain a USB FDD and a FDD.
2. Load into Windows.
3. Make a bootable FDD then unzip the 4 files contained in the BIOS zip file onto the FDD drive.
4. Reboot.
5. Press F2 to get into BIOS.
6. Make sure USB FDD is set to boot priority 1.
7. Press F10 to reboot.
8. Allow the system to boot into DOS.
9. Press P, and Enter.
10. Reboot the system after flashing the BIOS to complete.

Not sure what part you are having problems with?

You can get some boot floppies here http://www.biosmods.com/download.php There should be enough room on a 1.4 floppy, the Revision C.1C bios files are less than half the space.

If you need to make USB thumb drive bootable use this http://h18000.www1.hp.com/support/files/serveroptions/us/download/23839.html

Press F12 to select boot preference during boot up.
 
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