Corsair: 650D

andrew911tt said:
So after I find the above and decide that a sharpie will fix the problem and after I build my rig and do all of the cable management I find out that my far left (looking at the front of the case) USB 3.0 port/cable does not work.

Redbeard what do you suggest that I do? Can I just have a front panel sent to me?
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We can send a replacement I/O panel I believe.

You might want to check and make sure there's no loose connection on the backside of the I/O panel, but if you still can't get it working email me: [email protected] and I'l send you a new piece.

And I'll say this one more time: The H100 works on ALL Corsair cases from the $99 400R to the $299 800D.
 
I know you posted the 650D fan specs a while back, but the airflow measurements were only for when the fan was at 100%. Do you have the CFM ratings for the 200mm fan (and corresponding voltages) for all three speeds for the 650D fan controller?

Trying to decide if I'm going to keep the 2x200mm fans or move to 4x140mm fans, and also decide what speeds I'm going to use on the fans so that I can get a decidedly positive air pressure case. The way the 650D ships now, after someone puts in a rear fan, it almost has to be negative pressure.
 
andrew911tt said:
So after I find the above and decide that a sharpie will fix the problem and after I build my rig and do all of the cable management I find out that my far left (looking at the front of the case) USB 3.0 port/cable does not work.

Redbeard what do you suggest that I do? Can I just have a front panel sent to me?
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That doesn't look like the front panel from the picture. Looks more like a paint chip the steel top of the case.

*Edit* Redbeard beat me to it
 
andrew911tt said:
I opened my case today and found this should I exchange the case or just take a sharpie to it

P1000119.JPG

P1000120.JPG
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Andrew, I used one of those "Expo bold color dry erase markers" for a small area I had in the upper left edge of the aluminum front face, just for within the grooves of the brushed aluminum. It worked fine, just has to air dry, the cool thing is if you don’t like the color match it just wipes right off but small portions of it remain within the grooves where the discoloration is, if you know what I mean!;)

Don’t know if it will work as well on smooth steel, but maybe worth a try. Hope this helps...
 
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I had a similar issue with a chip as well in my case, seems like it's a common QC issue with this case.
Redbeard, you may want to speak to the factory on this one.
Yes, it's minor, but it seems like quite a few of us had this issue with the case.
I simply sharpied it, sure it doesn't match, but it hides the bare steel.
 
joejoejoe123 said:
The i7-860 is on the 1156 socket. Not sure what the guy talking about car motors was meaning.
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Don't know how much clearer i could been when I said the 2600k, which replaced you 1156 860, bested the 980x which the 2011 is ment to replace.

So if your 3yr chips replacement beat the best chip in the class above it, its a no brainer the 2011 will destroy your i7 860.

You've gave no indication what you do with your computer, and as theres no price mapping, and I'm betting they'll be over $400, is it a smart upgrade?? Thats something only you can know.
 
Eluder79 said:
I had a similar issue with a chip as well in my case, seems like it's a common QC issue with this case.
Redbeard, you may want to speak to the factory on this one.
Yes, it's minor, but it seems like quite a few of us had this issue with the case.
I simply sharpied it, sure it doesn't match, but it hides the bare steel.
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Thanks for the heads up. It's not very common or we'd have heard a lot more about it, and there's already a QC paint process in place, but I've forwarded the image on and our QC engineering team is going to do a few lot inspections to see if there's something we missed.
 
Redbeard said:
Thanks for the heads up. It's not very common or we'd have heard a lot more about it, and there's already a QC paint process in place, but I've forwarded the image on and our QC engineering team is going to do a few lot inspections to see if there's something we missed.
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No problem, mine was in a slightly different spot, it was were the door for the hot swap bay met the steel of the case when it was close, towards the left.
It wasn't a deep/thick chip, but it was visible from the corner of my eye (case sits on the floor).

Thanks for looking at our feedback.
 
Redbeard said:
Thanks for the heads up. It's not very common or we'd have heard a lot more about it, and there's already a QC paint process in place, but I've forwarded the image on and our QC engineering team is going to do a few lot inspections to see if there's something we missed.
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Mine had a small spot on the top panel too, But nothing a sharpie didnt correct.
 
Patonb said:
Don't know how much clearer i could been when I said the 2600k, which replaced you 1156 860, bested the 980x which the 2011 is ment to replace.

So if your 3yr chips replacement beat the best chip in the class above it, its a no brainer the 2011 will destroy your i7 860.

You've gave no indication what you do with your computer, and as theres no price mapping, and I'm betting they'll be over $400, is it a smart upgrade?? Thats something only you can know.
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Yes, I know it is a more powerful chip. I was more so meaning that I was not aware of what the differences were between the current Sandy Bridge models and the upcoming Ivy Bridge models, or what sort of compatibility I would be looking at if I purchased a new mobo and chip now, wanting to adopt an Ivy Bridge chip when they come out.

As for what I use my computer for: a fair amount of multimedia creation, audio, video, and graphics, I game pretty often although I'm not a die hard player I do enjoy keeping up with modern RPGs and a handful of shooters. I also like overclocking, building, etc... and like the lowest temps and lowest power usage I can get without sacrificing performance.

If there's anything else you would like to know to help suggest what I should or should not upgrade to, please ask. Price is not too much of an issue but I don't want the best of the best simply to say that I have it, I would prefer I see some sort of gain or have a valid reason to do it.

Much appreciated, hope that clears it up.
 
Are the cables from the USB ports of the top panel removable so that I don't have to have them in my case?
 
hi! mine came and I finished building the rig, will put up pics but I just have two questions. What are the long cables that look like they connect to many fans on the sata dock connect to? sorry im a newb at case things and there is a cable that looks like esata or something? I'm wondering what that connects to? Thanks!
 
note235 said:
hi! mine came and I finished building the rig, will put up pics but I just have two questions. What are the long cables that look like they connect to many fans on the sata dock connect to? sorry im a newb at case things and there is a cable that looks like esata or something? I'm wondering what that connects to? Thanks!
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Thats the built-in fan controller. Connects up to 4 fans and connects to a 4pin molex connector.
 
Volkswagen said:
Are the cables from the USB ports of the top panel removable so that I don't have to have them in my case?
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fantomau said:
I wanted to know this too, So I could remove the firewire cable as well.
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Volkswagen said:
Yeah firewire as well so that I can get rid off it as I don't use it :)
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Yes, they are all removable. You have to take them out of the black box they sit in after you've taken off the front panel. The only connectors I have in mine currently are the USB 2.0 slots. Everything else is gone.
 
joejoejoe123 said:
Yes, they are all removable. You have to take them out of the black box they sit in after you've taken off the front panel. The only connectors I have in mine currently are the USB 2.0 slots. Everything else is gone.
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Are the soldered on or plugged in?
 
joejoejoe123 said:
Yes, they are all removable. You have to take them out of the black box they sit in after you've taken off the front panel. The only connectors I have in mine currently are the USB 2.0 slots. Everything else is gone.
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coolest thing ever, going to redo my pc today haha
 
joejoejoe123 said:
Yes, they are all removable. You have to take them out of the black box they sit in after you've taken off the front panel. The only connectors I have in mine currently are the USB 2.0 slots. Everything else is gone.
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Hey Joe, did everything arrive ok and intact?
 
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would connecting the fans to the mobo or the fan control be a better idea? thanks! and does anyone know what the esata cable thing connects too? thanks!
 
All the front panel cables are removavle. You will need a philips screwdriver. There is a decent amount of screws to remove but a bit of patience will get the cables out. I would not cut them off.

You need to remove the little black box that holds the intups and then open the box to get the usb cables out. I only took the usb3 out as I do not use those.
 
lol turn it off haha
btw question: I have two corsair 120mm fans, should i use those or antec tricools for pushpull h50?
much appreciated!
 
note235 said:
lol turn it off haha
btw question: I have two corsair 120mm fans, should i use those or antec tricools for pushpull h50?
much appreciated!
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I would recommend Sanyo-Denki SAN ACE 120mm S-Type fans if you want extremely high quality, ultra-silent fans and don't mind spending the extra bucks, about $30 to $35 each. Ouch, I know!
Depends on your needs really, Corsair fans are like $4.00 fans they do the job, but it's like Ford vs Ferrari, efficiency is costly. If you can get by happily with the Corsair stock fans, then just hang tight with them!
Secret Non-Secret News Flash: Sanyo-Denki makes a 200mm fan, OMG. Will it snuggle into the 650D? I'll find out.

For Mr. George:
Corsair Cases/Chassis, Hydros, Memory, Power Supplies, Every Product Corsair is Ferrari!
Corsair case fans and Air Coolers Ford.
96% out of 100 is still kicking the markets ass! When do shares go public?
 
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Bruce, got the stuff! It's all very awesome and I will maybe hook up the fans tonight, and then check out the VGA cooler. So many options. Huge thanks for everything.

Also thanks to fantomau for the black cables and the fan extension cords. You guys are rad and this this thread is awesome.
 
Bruce, got the stuff! It's all very awesome and I will maybe hook up the fans tonight, and then check out the VGA cooler. So many options. Huge thanks for everything.

Also thanks to fantomau for the black cables and the fan extension cords. You guys are rad and this thread is awesome.
 
joejoejoe123 said:
Bruce, got the stuff! It's all very awesome and I will maybe hook up the fans tonight, and then check out the VGA cooler. So many options. Huge thanks for everything.

Also thanks to fantomau for the black cables and the fan extension cords. You guys are rad and this thread is awesome.
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The g and I are watching “I am Number 4” and she says go check on Joe and make sure he got his proper package. She is very English, love it, so joe gotta let me know if the Prolimatech MK-13 is gonna work out for your GTX 460, be cool man sleep well!;)
 
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I just removed the USB3.0 and firewire cables from front.

Very easy to do too. Just take off front panel, remove the 2 screws on the cover, then remove the 3 screws and gently pry up the plastic tabs on front, side and back of the cover, and the cables come right out. No cutting or anything.
 
wowcro said:
All the front panel cables are removavle. You will need a philips screwdriver. There is a decent amount of screws to remove but a bit of patience will get the cables out. I would not cut them off..
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Actually theres only 5 screws. 2 that holds the cover to the case and 3 that hold the box to the cover.
 
going to do this today! extremely excited and one more, thing sata power cable, how would one plug that in?
thanks!
 
MeanBruce said:
For Mr. George:
Corsair Cases/Chassis, Hydros, Memory, Power Supplies, Every Product Corsair is Ferrari!
Corsair case fans and Air Coolers Ford.
96% out of 100 is still kicking the markets ass! When do shares go public?
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Ouch, man!

Our air coolers are actually very competitive in the performance side of things, if a bit boring looking. But performance for dollar, they're great deals. Problem is that aircooling isn't selling so well since Hydro series has been out, everyone's seeing that happen. Look at the new all-in-one watercooling units from our competition (just about every major competitor announced an H50/H70 competitor this year) to see how well our products must be doing.

As far as fans, in my judgment there aren't any Ferraris in the market. There are a few decent Audi S6s, a BMW M3 or two, and a whole lot of modified 1996 Honda Civics. Those all serve a purpose. But right now, there aren't any Ferraris.
 
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