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Certain programs lock my computer.

mgear

n00b
Joined
Sep 16, 2009
Messages
55
Hello, some programs lock my computer up. I am not sure if it's hardware, or software based. My computer literally locking up, forcing a hard reboot. Programs like Skype, Crysis Warhead (Regular Crysis runs fine), fallout 3 with an update higher than 1.4. I also have problems with GTA IV, The new Red Faction, and various other programs, not all being games. If anyone can help me, that would be fantastic.

Specs:
Code:
Radeon 3850 (512mb)
WD Blue 640 gig (Sata)
6 Gigs of generic ram DDR2 800
Pentium E5200 Wolfdale 45nm 1.124V
OCZ 700WATT Stealth Extreme
Motherboard is a "Gateway FMCP7AM nForce 730i rev. b1"
Bios: "American Megatrends Inc - R01-A0 - 10/31/2008"
Vista Home Premium x64

uwn1gx5z6_info.jpg

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a80yd34m3_info2.jpg

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gf8249uxa_info3.jpg
 
[Testing the RAM]
Download Memtest86+ v2.11 or whatever the latest version is, unzip it, burn the ISO file to a CD, and then boot from it, just like you would do with the XP/Vista install CD. Let Memtest+ run for at least three hours on each stick of RAM separately as well as test the RAM all together. Go for a full 24 hours if you want to be completely sure that the RAM is not a problem. If you start seeing errors, than your RAM is defective or you have incorrect settings for the RAM.

[Testing the Hard drive]
Download the CD image of Hitachi Drive Fitness Test, burn the ISO file to a CD, and then boot from it, just like you would do with the XP/Vista install CD. Test the hard drive and see if any problems are found. DFT will run on most manufacturers' hard drives. Alternatively, you can use Seagate's SeaTools for DOS to test a Seagate or Maxtor drive. For a Western Digital drive, you could use Data Lifeguard Tools for DOS to test a Western Digital drive.

[Testing the CPU]
Use Prime 95, OCCT, Orthos or Intel Burn Tool to stress test the CPU.

[Testing the GPU]
Use Furmark or ATI Tool to stress test the GPU. If you see any artifacts, the GPU could be overheating, too overclocked, or faulty.

[Testing the PSU]
Buy and use a digital multi-meter to monitor the voltages coming from the PSU. Follow the instructions for "Using a multi-meter to check voltages":
http://www.bfgpower.com/troubleshooting.html#DMM
 
All are good suggestions.

Here's another one, make sure all patches are downloaded for the OS, and verify all drivers are up to date, or within reasonably up to date (If its 6 months old, and there's something new...etc etc).

Just throwing idea's around to help spur thought.

That "generic ram" thing scares me, but thats just me
 
[Testing the CPU]
Use Prime 95, OCCT, Orthos or Intel Burn Tool to stress test the CPU.
[Testing the GPU]
Use Furmark or ATI Tool to stress test the GPU. If you see any artifacts, the GPU could be overheating, too overclocked, or faulty.
Ok, testing the CPU was a success, and Furmark was also a success. CPU only got to 130F with the Intel Burn Tool, and the GPU only got up to 70c With Furmark.
Now it is on to test the HDD. Hopefully the tool I am using can bypass the onboard raid controller.
u68bqq6qf_intel.jpg

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Ok, I have tried to test my HDD, and it doesn't even detect it. Now this may be because my motherboard has an onboard RAID controller, or it may actually be my drive. Also, every now and then, my HDD does click. And I cannot run Memtest for a full 24 hours as I am home-schooled until we move back to an area with a good school system.
 
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Ok, I have tried to test my HDD, and it doesn't even detect it. Now this may be because my motherboard has an onboard RAID controller, or it may actually be my drive. Also, every now and then, my HDD does click.

What app did you use to test the HDD?
And I cannot run Memtest for a full 24 hours as I am home-schooled until we move back to an area with a good school system.

Ummm, how does that you being home-schooled prevents you from testing the PC for a full 24 hours? In any case, run Memtest as long as you can.
 
I used the WD App, but none of them will scan it if the HDD is on a raid controller.
Also, I couldn't run memtest for a full 24 hours because I need to do school work, and my laptop doesn't have any drivers on it because I don't know how to install them because it won't read a CD, or the USB stick.
 
Tomorrow, I am going to sell my "Xbox 360" at a pawn shop, as I no longer use it. Hopefully I get atleast 200 for it, so I can buy parts for this computer.
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Crap, It would use "Automerge"
 
I used the WD App, but none of them will scan it if the HDD is on a raid controller.
Also, I couldn't run memtest for a full 24 hours because I need to do school work, and my laptop doesn't have any drivers on it because I don't know how to install them because it won't read a CD, or the USB stick.
Uhh dude, most HDD scanning apps do detect HDDs on a RAID or storage controller. Have you tried switcing to IDE mode in the BIOS for the SATA mode?

Are you absolutely sure that the laptop cannot read a CD or USB drive? How did you install the OS on it in the first place?
Tomorrow, I am going to sell my "Xbox 360" at a pawn shop, as I no longer use it. Hopefully I get atleast 200 for it, so I can buy parts for this computer.
Dude, so far, you haven't done that much testing to determine that you need to get new parts.
 
Uhh dude, most HDD scanning apps do detect HDDs on a RAID or storage controller. Have you tried switcing to IDE mode in the BIOS for the SATA mode?

Are you absolutely sure that the laptop cannot read a CD or USB drive? How did you install the OS on it in the first place?

Dude, so far, you haven't done that much testing to determine that you need to get new parts.
The laptop can read CD/DVD, but I didn't pay attention to what file system I installed the OS on. My computer doesn't have a mode for IDE in the BIOS. And I have been trying to fix this for a really long time, I used memtest, and furmark months ago, and they detected no errors. I have also tried the Windows memory test. I know I will have to buy new parts, so I might as well sell my Xbox now, before the Pawn shop guy knows the prices went down.
 
The laptop can read CD/DVD, but I didn't pay attention to what file system I installed the OS on. .
Ok, I'm a bit confused here: What does the file system of the OS have anything to do with you being unable to install drivers? You are using Windows correct? If the laptop can read CD/DVD, then you should be able to burn drivers to a CD and then read/download it from there.

My computer doesn't have a mode for IDE in the BIOS. And I have been trying to fix this for a really long time, I used memtest, and furmark months ago, and they detected no errors. I have also tried the Windows memory test. I know I will have to buy new parts, so I might as well sell my Xbox now, before the Pawn shop guy knows the prices went down.
Windows memory test doesn't mean anything. Again, besides RAM, CPU, and GPU, you have not done any testing that determines whether or not the mobo, PSU, or HDD are the problem parts.
 
Ok, I'm a bit confused here: What does the file system of the OS have anything to do with you being unable to install drivers? You are using Windows correct? If the laptop can read CD/DVD, then you should be able to burn drivers to a CD and then read/download it from there.

Windows memory test doesn't mean anything. Again, besides RAM, CPU, and GPU, you have not done any testing that determines whether or not the mobo, PSU, or HDD are the problem parts.

I originally put Windows 2000 on it, but I didn't like the layout, and I don't legally own a CD key for XP, so I installed ReactOS, which is attempting to be compatible with most Windows stuff.
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The programs wont scan past the RAID controller in my Motherboard, because it doesn't have that feature. I have tried pretty much all, safe HDD scanning programs I have come across. How would I test the MOBO? And I cant test the PSU, because I cannot afford to buy anything until I sell my Xbox.
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I just had an idea, does Memtest check the ram slots, or just the ram? Should I take a rams stick out each time, and see if it helps? Would I be able to run with three sticks, instead of four?
 
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I originally put Windows 2000 on it, but I didn't like the layout, and I don't legally own a CD key for XP, so I installed ReactOS, which is attempting to be compatible with most Windows stuff.
Ok, just install Ubuntu Linux. ReactOS is still not at the point where you can use it as a production OS. Maybe for testing but not for actual full time usage. Linux is now your best bet to get a working OS on your laptop. However, if you can find Windows 7 RC with a key, then I also recommend using that. Just note that Windows 7 RC will start restarting ever two hours in March 2010 and you won't be able to use it after June 2010.
The programs wont scan past the RAID controller in my Motherboard, because it doesn't have that feature. I have tried pretty much all, safe HDD scanning programs I have come across. How would I test the MOBO? And I cant test the PSU, because I cannot afford to buy anything until I sell my Xbox.
So you tried the latest version of the WD tools and Hitachi DFT? Can you scan the HDD in another system?

To test the mobo, run a CPU stress app AND a GPU stress app at the same time.

Yeah you'll need money to test the PSU (Either buy a multimeter or a better quality PSU)

I just had an idea, does Memtest check the ram slots, or just the ram? Should I take a rams stick out each time, and see if it helps? Would I be able to run with three sticks, instead of four?
It tests the RAM. However there are some situations where the RAM slot themselves are defective. Yes three sticks will work. Also, I specifically said test each stick of RAM separately
 
"Ok, just install Ubuntu Linux. ReactOS is still not at the point where you can use it as a production OS. Maybe for testing but not for actual full time usage. Linux is now your best bet to get a working OS on your laptop. However, if you can find Windows 7 RC with a key, then I also recommend using that. Just note that Windows 7 RC will start restarting ever two hours in March 2010 and you won't be able to use it after June 2010."
I have already tried Ubuntu on it, I couldn't find the Video drivers. And I doubt 7 will be worth trying, because the laptop has a Pentium 3, 256MB ram, and a S3 Savage 7mb GPU.

"So you tried the latest version of the WD tools and Hitachi DFT? Can you scan the HDD in another system?"
Actually I have.

"To test the mobo, run a CPU stress app AND a GPU stress app at the same time."
Doing that now, thanks!
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Ok, I have done the MOBO testing, and it didn't lock my computer. So I guess that brings it down to 3 things now, the Ram slots, HDD, or PSU.
My PSU goes below the recommended Amps for my GPU. PSU = 18A on the 12v rails, and the GPU recommends 30. My PSU isn't meant for gaming, which I didn't know at the time.
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Also, is an Anti-Static bag from the GPU an ok place to store the ram while I'm not using it?
 
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I have already tried Ubuntu on it, I couldn't find the Video drivers. And I doubt 7 will be worth trying, because the laptop has a Pentium 3, 256MB ram, and a S3 Savage 7mb GPU.

The video drivers should be built in with the lastest Ubuntu build. Also try Knoppix, Linux Mint, or Damn Small Linux.

Actually I have.

Have what? Scanned the HDD in another system or tried the latest WD and Hitachi testing apps?

My PSU goes below the recommended Amps for my GPU. PSU = 18A on the 12v rails, and the GPU recommends 30. My PSU isn't meant for gaming, which I didn't know at the time.
Ok, you're misreading the PSU labeling. Read this PSU FAQ to learn more about PSUs:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1036

The OCZ GameXStream 700W PSU is a decent 500W PSU, Your system does not draw anywhere near 500W so the PSU is not that likely of a culprit. With that said, still doesn't hurt to try a quality PSU. When you do get the money, I recommend using this PSU to test the system:
$50 - Corsair 400CX 400W PSU

Also, is an Anti-Static bag from the GPU an ok place to store the ram while I'm not using it?
Inside of it, yes. Outside of it, no.
 
The video drivers should be built in with the lastest Ubuntu build. Also try Knoppix, Linux Mint, or Damn Small Linux.
The drivers weren't installed, a 7mb GPU can do more than 800 X 600 desktop easily.
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Have what? Scanned the HDD in another system or tried the latest WD and Hitachi testing apps?
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The APPs, and I cant scan in another system, because this is the only one with SATA in the house, and quite possibly the family.
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The OCZ GameXStream 700W PSU is a decent 500W PSU, Your system does not draw anywhere near 500W so the PSU is not that likely of a culprit. With that said, still doesn't hurt to try a quality PSU. When you do get the money, I recommend using this PSU to test the system:
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I have the "Stealth eXtreme", which I would assume is more for HTPCs since it's really quiet, and has good build quality, and I actually replaced that PSU that you linked me, because it did a jihad explosion in my Old computer.
 
I have the "Stealth eXtreme", which I would assume is more for HTPCs since it's really quiet, and has good build quality, and I actually replaced that PSU that you linked me, because it did a jihad explosion in my Old computer.
Odd. Meh, it happens. Did you RMA that Corsair? Where is it now?

Also, the StealthXStream is based on the same platform as the GameXStream. So what I said still stands.
 
Odd. Meh, it happens. Did you RMA that Corsair? Where is it now?

Also, the StealthXStream is based on the same platform as the GameXStream. So what I said still stands.

It's in a warehouse in Tennessee, because at the time, I didn't know you could RMA it.
 
I just tried error checking from within Vista, and it worked. It said no errors were detected...
 
Ok, I just discovered that "Fallout Mod Manager" also locks the computer... I am seriously irked to find if these programs have anything in common.
 
Ok, I just discovered that "Fallout Mod Manager" also locks the computer... I am seriously irked to find if these programs have anything in common.

All the programs you listed have nothing in common besides being windows apps.

But if you really think that you have a software problem, just reinstall the OS.
 
Reinstalling isn't an option for me, as I have no external HDD to back things up, and this is also a shared computer with my mom.
 
Ok....then we can't really help you then until you can swap in other parts or actually take the time to properly test the PC.
 
How long did you run memtest?

BTW, running tests months ago and expecting their results to remain the same as if you ran them now therefore negating the need to run them now -- is just illogical. Some parts may have gotten worse since you ran those tests, so its a good idea to run them NOW.

Its also best to use UBCD or BartPE or some live CD w/ all these tools instead of running all these tests in your existing windows installation. If your CPU/RAM/GPU pass all these tests OUTSIDE of your current Windows OS, its probably your PSU and/or Mobo.
 
How long did you run memtest?

BTW, running tests months ago and expecting their results to remain the same as if you ran them now therefore negating the need to run them now -- is just illogical. Some parts may have gotten worse since you ran those tests, so its a good idea to run them NOW.

Its also best to use UBCD or BartPE or some live CD w/ all these tools instead of running all these tests in your existing windows installation. If your CPU/RAM/GPU pass all these tests OUTSIDE of your current Windows OS, its probably your PSU and/or Mobo.

I did run memtest a few days ago, I ran it for five hours. I don't have any spare CD's left, and I can't afford to buy anymore.
 
5hours isn't long enough. Run it overnight. Ask a friend for a blank cd.
 
Could these have anything to do with the locking?
epbmt19cb_.jpg

riz3kgh4k_0920092127.jpg


I've read that CPU Spread Spectrum can cause instability.
Intel says that the EIST changes the voltages. So maybe that might be causing it.
 
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I've read that CPU Spread Spectrum can cause instability.
Intel says that the EIST changes the voltages. So maybe that might be causing it.
CPU Spread Spectrum is not the problem
EIST is not the problem either.

Ok, memtest didn't detect any errors.
Did you run it for 24 hours? And did you run it specifically the way that I recommended?
 
CPU Spread Spectrum is not the problem
EIST is not the problem either.


Did you run it for 24 hours? And did you run it specifically the way that I recommended?

I plan on testing each stick starting tomorrow. I am due to get a new HDD soon, since my current one is griding, and giving clicks of death and I need to switch fast.
 
I plan on testing each stick starting tomorrow. I am due to get a new HDD soon, since my current one is griding, and giving clicks of death and I need to switch fast.

Do you have a UPS?
 
You should invest in a good UPS. Power fluctuations and heat are leading causes of HDD death.
 
You should invest in a good UPS. Power fluctuations and heat are leading causes of HDD death.

Our apartment complex has a generator system for stuff like that, which also powers the emergency stuff.
But my HDD has been bad since day one, I just thought WD Blues were noisy. It kinda rattles...
 
Our apartment complex has a generator system for stuff like that, which also powers the emergency stuff.
But my HDD has been bad since day one, I just thought WD Blues were noisy. It kinda rattles...

The UPS helps regulate the voltage via either an Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) or by powering stuff straight from the battery. A generator does nothing of the sort and only kicks in AFTER power has been cutoff. Again, the UPS will minimize the voltage fluctuations which tend to kill HDDs.

No, WD Caviars have been rather quiet for a while now, even before they started using the Blue moniker. In the past, yes, they were somewhat loud, but they fixed that a few years ago.
 
The UPS helps regulate the voltage via either an Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) or by powering stuff straight from the battery. A generator does nothing of the sort and only kicks in AFTER power has been cutoff. Again, the UPS will minimize the voltage fluctuations which tend to kill HDDs.

No, WD Caviars have been rather quiet for a while now, even before they started using the Blue moniker. In the past, yes, they were somewhat loud, but they fixed that a few years ago.

So, since my HDD does loud clicks, and rattles, does that mean it is most likely bad?
 
Its probably dying. It is very possible that you got a bad drive from the start, if its been doing that its entire life.
 
Its probably dying. It is very possible that you got a bad drive from the start, if its been doing that its entire life.

Would booting into a live CD, and copying everything from one drive to another work? Like, as long as the other drive is renamed "C", I could boot into Windows just fine?
 
Would booting into a live CD, and copying everything from one drive to another work? Like, as long as the other drive is renamed "C", I could boot into Windows just fine?

No. While that method would copy over all your files, it would not copy over the MBR and other hidden files needed to boot an OS.

No, what you want to do is called "cloning". You use the cloning software to clone your old drive to another drive. Then remove the old drive or set the new drive as the new boot drive. And voila! Your system just the way it was before the stability issues.

Luckily for you, such cloning software is free:
http://support.wdc.com/product/downloaddetail.asp
 
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