CDW Outlet Finds

Joust

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that's 100t of storage perfect for unraid or some other storage medium/file system
That's a serious drive count. :eek: With those type of quantities, you definitely can be talking to the companies regarding discounts even for brand new. (y)
Yes. Well. There is a bit of a Plex Flex competition among some of my friends. I slipped into second place behind a dude running several Synologies. Couldn't allow the false king to remain on my rightful throne.
 

elavanis

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Yes. Well. There is a bit of a Plex Flex competition among some of my friends. I slipped into second place behind a dude running several Synologies. Couldn't allow the false king to remain on my rightful throne.
Do I even qualify as a peasant in this scenario? I got 4x 8tb drives and 2 of those are in a remote freenas serving as backup of my local box.
749956.png
 

SamirD

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Yes. Well. There is a bit of a Plex Flex competition among some of my friends. I slipped into second place behind a dude running several Synologies. Couldn't allow the false king to remain on my rightful throne.
Gotcha. If you're running sas drives, let me know and I'll send you a few leads where I think you can get some good deals on larger drives. (y)
 
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SamirD

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Do I even qualify as a peasant in this scenario? I got 4x 8tb drives and 2 of those are in a remote freenas serving as backup of my local box.
View attachment 229290
Lol, I take this as akin to having the largest v8 engine or fastest 0-60 time. :D It's just a man thing. :D

But I'd like to hear more about how your remote freenas setup works. I've got a setup that works similarly, but it's a bit clunky atm and am looking at other options besides just buying synologies and using their built-in features ($$$). :)
 

cdoublejj

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well ....fuck i'm going to have upgrade my unraid again. i though 52TB was fine and swathing over to flash storage instead of big HDDs.
 

Joust

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well ....fuck i'm going to have upgrade my unraid again. i though 52TB was fine and swathing over to flash storage instead of big HDDs.
52 tb of ssd is pretty healthy. Yikes.
Do I even qualify as a peasant in this scenario? I got 4x 8tb drives and 2 of those are in a remote freenas serving as backup of my local box.
View attachment 229290
Heh. I hear you. Gotta start somewhere!

Gotcha. If you're running sas drives, let me know and I'll send you a few leads where I think you can get some good deals on larger drives. (y)
Yeah, man. Well - I'm pretty well invested in the hgst he10 ultrastar or whatever. SAS drives, yes
 

SamirD

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well ....fuck i'm going to have upgrade my unraid again. i though 52TB was fine and swathing over to flash storage instead of big HDDs.
Just watch for drives in the outlet. ;) Those 16TB drives would have fix you right up! :eek:
 

rgMekanic

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Kinda lost here. CDW-O is seeming just a little odd to me. Still have not received the small $18 monitor. Decided to go on to CDW to see whats up.

Here is my original order.

1583977758178.png


Yup, that's what I bought and kinda bitched about shipping. But I got the Lenovo 27" 3 days later in perfect condition and it's doing awesome.

This is what CDW's site shows my order as now..

1583977897018.png


Small monitor is gone, like I never even ordered it. And weirdly, the shipping went UP (only .04, but still.... weird)

Kinda pissed I went to check my bank account for a refund or something, especially since I find it hard to believe that shipping 1 monitor would cost the same (.04 more) than shipping one.

1583978064859.png


So they didn't bill me until it shipped, and charged me $25.23 for shipping. Reasonable, but why all the weirdness on their website and the like. Why no email from them that my order was changed or they couldn't get the other item? All I got from them was an order confirmation, then a shipping confirmation on the Lenovo, and nothing else until tonight they sent an email asking me to do a survey. I'll likely still buy from there with all the awesome deals SamirD finds... but still strange as hell.
 

SamirD

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Yep, this is the weirdness you run across in the outlet with online orders, and hence why I only place a phone order and confirm stock with anything outlet. I recently placed a phone order for a UPS battery for almost half off, as well as some memory and a true enterprise sata drive for shucked prices. Got them all today nice and easy. All it took was a phone call versus an online order. One of the small quirks of the outlet, but worth it imo since I paid ebay prices for basically new stuff with a full warranty. (y)

So if you call them and talk to customer support, they can send you a copy of the real invoice for that order. The item that never shipped were probably taken off the order when they couldn't find them in the warehouse. :( Hence why I call and check stock.
 

elavanis

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But I'd like to hear more about how your remote freenas setup works. I've got a setup that works similarly, but it's a bit clunky atm and am looking at other options besides just buying synologies and using their built-in features ($$$). :)
I got a pair of dell t30s. Each of those have a pair of 8tb toshiba n300 in raid 1 for storage and I have different datasets (folders) shared out for windows. For the backup portion freenas has the option to send backups (snapshots) to remote boxes as well as the cloud. I have my parents network connected to mine via vpn so I just pointed the remote freenas box as its ip and then it send only the changed data each day. Some data sets I save every 6 hours and some every 24 hours. With 11.3 has the ability to resume backups that fail instead of starting over. This is helpful when my parents internet gets flaky and reboots their modem multiple times a day. The initial copy is best done locally so it can run at lan speed but 11.3 also allows you to backup to a external drive and put that on the remote computer if that is easier.

If you got specific questions feel free to ask.



https://www.freenas.org/
 

SamirD

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I got a pair of dell t30s. Each of those have a pair of 8tb toshiba n300 in raid 1 for storage and I have different datasets (folders) shared out for windows. For the backup portion freenas has the option to send backups (snapshots) to remote boxes as well as the cloud. I have my parents network connected to mine via vpn so I just pointed the remote freenas box as its ip and then it send only the changed data each day. Some data sets I save every 6 hours and some every 24 hours. With 11.3 has the ability to resume backups that fail instead of starting over. This is helpful when my parents internet gets flaky and reboots their modem multiple times a day. The initial copy is best done locally so it can run at lan speed but 11.3 also allows you to backup to a external drive and put that on the remote computer if that is easier.

If you got specific questions feel free to ask.



https://www.freenas.org/
Very cool. Your setup is basically identical to mine except I'm just using robocopy across an ipsec vpn tunnel between nas units. It just takes time because smb is slow. Part of me wants to move to iscsi targets and maybe that would help, but part of the nice part about simple drives and robocopy is that I can just connect the drives to something else and have full access to the data when something goes wrong.
 

/dev/null

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Kinda lost here. CDW-O is seeming just a little odd to me. Still have not received the small $18 monitor. Decided to go on to CDW to see whats up.

Here is my original order.

View attachment 229408

Yup, that's what I bought and kinda bitched about shipping. But I got the Lenovo 27" 3 days later in perfect condition and it's doing awesome.

This is what CDW's site shows my order as now..

View attachment 229409

Small monitor is gone, like I never even ordered it. And weirdly, the shipping went UP (only .04, but still.... weird)

Kinda pissed I went to check my bank account for a refund or something, especially since I find it hard to believe that shipping 1 monitor would cost the same (.04 more) than shipping one.

View attachment 229411

So they didn't bill me until it shipped, and charged me $25.23 for shipping. Reasonable, but why all the weirdness on their website and the like. Why no email from them that my order was changed or they couldn't get the other item? All I got from them was an order confirmation, then a shipping confirmation on the Lenovo, and nothing else until tonight they sent an email asking me to do a survey. I'll likely still buy from there with all the awesome deals SamirD finds... but still strange as hell.
I think most people who buy from CDW have a "Rep"/human so they probably don't care how broken their website is.
 

SamirD

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I think most people who buy from CDW have a "Rep"/human so they probably don't care how broken their website is.
The regular CDW website doesn't have any issues like the outlet does since there isn't just one CDW part number per item. I've had reps, and imo they're useless so I never bother with them and just call in an order with whoever is there.
 

aznpotpie

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you rascal! SamirD! jkjk! So after lurking around this thread for a long time, I bought the following by accident last night:

1.jpg


Anyone know if it's okay to buy an adapter and put it on a 15A breaker? I'm only using this for my router and modem!
 

Blue Fox

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you rascal! SamirD! jkjk! So after lurking around this thread for a long time, I bought the following by accident last night:

View attachment 230900

Anyone know if it's okay to buy an adapter and put it on a 15A breaker? I'm only using this for my router and modem!
It's a very bad idea. Don't try to burn your home down.
 

arnemetis

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My mentality going into this is the fact that if I'm not even using close to enough draw, it won't even heat up.
Think of it this way. You use it for a short period, and it now has to recharge. It will draw at full power to recharge, which will far exceed the 15 amp circuit. Ideally the breaker trips in time, but if not there could be a fire from the wires not being able to handle it. You really want to risk it just for an insane run time for your wifi? I use an 825va for mine and it lasts a few hours. Alternatively, look into getting a 20 amp circuit added, might not be so expensive depending on your situation, and a lot safer.
 

Dead Parrot

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Anyone know if it's okay to buy an adapter and put it on a 15A breaker? I'm only using this for my router and modem!
Research the max draw it will have on recharge. Possible the recharge rate is far less then the max draw for 2200VA output + efficiency losses. If you have a Kill-a-Watt type meter, you can verify the recharge draw.

The other question is what else is on that circuit? Even if the UPS recharge is under 15A, still possible that the other gizmos will push you over the limit.
 

aznpotpie

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Think of it this way. You use it for a short period, and it now has to recharge. It will draw at full power to recharge, which will far exceed the 15 amp circuit. Ideally the breaker trips in time, but if not there could be a fire from the wires not being able to handle it. You really want to risk it just for an insane run time for your wifi? I use an 825va for mine and it lasts a few hours. Alternatively, look into getting a 20 amp circuit added, might not be so expensive depending on your situation, and a lot safer.
Thats the thing, according to the specs it takes about 3 hours to recharge so 2kw/3 is 666.67 watts per hour which I’m totally fine with. I just checked and the breaker is 20A but the outlets are all 15A outlets. Just annoying to change out since it’s in constant usage.

aznpotpie , this. A typical home router + cable modem + switch draw very little and will last for a very long time. If rack-mount is important consider something like this.
I think there is a misunderstanding, I didn’t actually intend to buy this UPS. I didn’t think it would ship since it was cheaper then everything else in its price range for performance/quality. And it actually shipped so now I’m stuck with it! Thought someone else would have grabbed it before me!

Research the max draw it will have on recharge. Possible the recharge rate is far less then the max draw for 2200VA output + efficiency losses. If you have a Kill-a-Watt type meter, you can verify the recharge draw.

The other question is what else is on that circuit? Even if the UPS recharge is under 15A, still possible that the other gizmos will push you over the limit.
So I just checked and my breaker is 20A for the room but outlets are all 15A outlets. Not hard to change the outlet to a GFCI 20A to replace the GFCI 15A on it now. However the outlet is constantly in use for essential things so my hours to work on replacing the outlet is between 3am to 5am haha!

APC says it usually takes 3 hours to recharge so 2KW/3HR is 666.67W/HR which gives me a lot of head room it seems or am I thinking this the wrong way? I mean it’s no biggie to swap the outlet but was just throwing things around. I have my PC on the circuit but it’s usually not on and unless I’m working, it won’t exceed 1KW (dam 7980xe @4.7ghz and 2080 ti is power hungry at full load)
 

wizzi01

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Thats the thing, according to the specs it takes about 3 hours to recharge so 2kw/3 is 666.67 watts per hour which I’m totally fine with. I just checked and the breaker is 20A but the outlets are all 15A outlets. Just annoying to change out since it’s in constant usage.


I think there is a misunderstanding, I didn’t actually intend to buy this UPS. I didn’t think it would ship since it was cheaper then everything else in its price range for performance/quality. And it actually shipped so now I’m stuck with it! Thought someone else would have grabbed it before me!



So I just checked and my breaker is 20A for the room but outlets are all 15A outlets. Not hard to change the outlet to a GFCI 20A to replace the GFCI 15A on it now. However the outlet is constantly in use for essential things so my hours to work on replacing the outlet is between 3am to 5am haha!

APC says it usually takes 3 hours to recharge so 2KW/3HR is 666.67W/HR which gives me a lot of head room it seems or am I thinking this the wrong way? I mean it’s no biggie to swap the outlet but was just throwing things around. I have my PC on the circuit but it’s usually not on and unless I’m working, it won’t exceed 1KW (dam 7980xe @4.7ghz and 2080 ti is power hungry at full load)
You need to check to see if you have 12 gauge wire before just swapping out outlets. Someone might have had a bad breaker before you moved in and said f it 20 amp is close enough.
 

cdoublejj

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you can also just go to a 15amp breaker. which is what is needed if don't have 12 gauge wires.
 

SamirD

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you rascal! SamirD! jkjk! So after lurking around this thread for a long time, I bought the following by accident last night:

View attachment 230900

Anyone know if it's okay to buy an adapter and put it on a 15A breaker? I'm only using this for my router and modem!
I'm going to preface this with the cautions--you can heat up your wiring to the point your house can burn down and you may end up tripping your breaker, and it's not the best thing to do, etc, etc.

And then I'm going to tell you about our experience of putting 6000w of peak load in a single 20a circuit for well over a year. UPS units actually helped as the peak loads didn't hit the breakers and instead would overload the ups units and cause them to turn the loads off. I've actually re-distributed all the loads now as we were having problems when the power went out and then turned back on as the breaker would trip, and after a nice little scare when we added a portable ac unit to the circuit and the entire breaker panel was too hot to touch, we remove it and a bunch of the loads (just turned the systems off or moved them).

That all said, a unit like this won't use 2200a when charging so you should be fine, and it will allow your modem and router to literally run for many, many hours. As long as you don't put 2200a of load on the ups, you won't have that much load on the circuit. Personally, in this scenario I don't see any potential problems with your idea (but I'm not an electrician).
 

SamirD

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I have my PC on the circuit but it’s usually not on and unless I’m working, it won’t exceed 1KW (dam 7980xe @4.7ghz and 2080 ti is power hungry at full load)
If you have your pc on the same circuit, rather than sharing it with the UPS, I would attach your system (and anything else) to the UPS--then your system's load is also running through the UPS, which will basically reduce the load to only the UPS on that circuit. This is what I did with almost everything and we have about 6x ups units with almost nothing plugged in direct and the outlets and breakers are fine.

The real test is to simply use the ups's voltage display, and here's how. Put zero load on the circuit, make sure the ups battery is full and look at the input voltage and see how close it is to 120v. Compare this to other outlets in the house (yes, drag the ups there and repeat the test). This will give you an idea of what 'normal' is for your house's circuitry.

Then, add your load to the circuit directly and plug the ups in and check the voltage again. If you load is significant enough to heat the wires even slightly, the voltage will drop--maybe not much to 119/118--but if it's dropping to 116v or something like that, you're definitely heating up the wires and it's not a good idea to put that much load on that circuit. You can try to put all the load on the ups and then check the input voltage again and if it drops, then the load going through the UPS isn't stressing your wiring as much and that configuration will be safer. I completely forgot about this test as that's how I determined we were 'safe' on any circuit. (Voltage dropped to 104v when the circuit breaker heated to the point it was too hot to touch as a data point, but ymmv).
 

aznpotpie

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If you have your pc on the same circuit, rather than sharing it with the UPS, I would attach your system (and anything else) to the UPS--then your system's load is also running through the UPS, which will basically reduce the load to only the UPS on that circuit. This is what I did with almost everything and we have about 6x ups units with almost nothing plugged in direct and the outlets and breakers are fine.

The real test is to simply use the ups's voltage display, and here's how. Put zero load on the circuit, make sure the ups battery is full and look at the input voltage and see how close it is to 120v. Compare this to other outlets in the house (yes, drag the ups there and repeat the test). This will give you an idea of what 'normal' is for your house's circuitry.

Then, add your load to the circuit directly and plug the ups in and check the voltage again. If you load is significant enough to heat the wires even slightly, the voltage will drop--maybe not much to 119/118--but if it's dropping to 116v or something like that, you're definitely heating up the wires and it's not a good idea to put that much load on that circuit. You can try to put all the load on the ups and then check the input voltage again and if it drops, then the load going through the UPS isn't stressing your wiring as much and that configuration will be safer. I completely forgot about this test as that's how I determined we were 'safe' on any circuit. (Voltage dropped to 104v when the circuit breaker heated to the point it was too hot to touch as a data point, but ymmv).
Sounds like a nice workout right now with the "shelter in place" order going on. Thanks for the tibits, I seriously did not intend to have this ship at all!
 

SamirD

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Sounds like a nice workout right now with the "shelter in place" order going on. Thanks for the tibits, I seriously did not intend to have this ship at all!
You're welcome. Hey, but you got a hell of a deal! :D
 

SamirD

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Yep, that's the sucky shipment practices that damage good stuff in the outlet when it's heavy. :( Call them and get a refund and they'll send you a label to send the junk back. And stay on top of them for the refund. I've lost $300 because they never refunded the money on 2x incidents like this that went through my 'account manager' whom I stopped using after he dropped the ball completely--that dumbass.
 

Dead Parrot

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May not have been CDW's fault. A lot of the automated sorting facilities have many places a heavy box can smash into things before it gets loaded onto a truck. Depending on how much you want the thing, might be worth taking the lid off and inspecting for circuit board damage or busted batteries. A little work with hammer and pliers could fix the bent metal. Cracked circuit board or leaking batteries are an auto return to sender.

If the purchase was an impulse or oops, the shipping gremlins have given you a 2nd chance.
 

SamirD

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May not have been CDW's fault. A lot of the automated sorting facilities have many places a heavy box can smash into things before it gets loaded onto a truck. Depending on how much you want the thing, might be worth taking the lid off and inspecting for circuit board damage or busted batteries. A little work with hammer and pliers could fix the bent metal. Cracked circuit board or leaking batteries are an auto return to sender.

If the purchase was an impulse or oops, the shipping gremlins have given you a 2nd chance.
Oh no, this is definitely CDW's fault. Their packing leaves a tremendous amount to be desired at times. The nice 10TB drive I got is now going for warranty replacement since it failed a smart test--no doubt to being shipped with a ups battery in a box with those stupid air pockets that pop with heavy objects.
 
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Hey SamirD - Maybe you can help - I'm legit looking for 8-10-12, 14tb, 16tb or whatever good price per TB drives makes the most sense.

I've been holding out for the best buy $200 deal to come around on the 14's to shuck. Plan is to build a freenas box to replace my 2 8 bay QNAP's.

What'cha know? :p I have a CDW-G account as well if that helps....
 

Joust

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Hey SamirD - Maybe you can help - I'm legit looking for 8-10-12, 14tb, 16tb or whatever good price per TB drives makes the most sense.

I've been holding out for the best buy $200 deal to come around on the 14's to shuck. Plan is to build a freenas box to replace my 2 8 bay QNAP's.

What'cha know? :p I have a CDW-G account as well if that helps....
Ive been shopping in this space recently. The $200/14tb shucked drive is as cheap as it gets. Period.

16tb in any flavor will be less tb/$. But then again, density.
 

SamirD

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Hey SamirD - Maybe you can help - I'm legit looking for 8-10-12, 14tb, 16tb or whatever good price per TB drives makes the most sense.

I've been holding out for the best buy $200 deal to come around on the 14's to shuck. Plan is to build a freenas box to replace my 2 8 bay QNAP's.

What'cha know? :p I have a CDW-G account as well if that helps....
Your CDW-G pricing may be much better than normal prices. Otherwise, it's tough to find deals in the outlet that match the easystore prices, although imo the value is much more since the outlet drives can be enterprise and/or sas which much more reliability and performance. You're going with sas on the freenas, right? There's some solid deals on sas drives right now.

8TB Seagates 4kn 2M MTBF 7200rpm 5yr warranty for $159/ea ($19.875/TB). Probably not going to drop lower than that as it's $100 less than b and h. 12 at this price right now:
https://www.cdw.com/search/?outlet=1&key=sas|ST8000NM0065&sortby=priceasc&maxrecords=72&ln=2

10TB HGST 4kn 2.5M MTBF 7200rpm 5yr warranty for $190/ea ($19/TB). There's one at the $190 price so far and the others have yet to drop to that. But at this price there literally 1/2 of CDW's normal price for them. 17 total drives as of right now:
https://www.cdw.com/search/?outlet=1&key=sas|0F27402&sortby=priceasc&maxrecords=72&ln=2

Hope this helps! And if I've just saved you a ton of cash, I take tips. :D And tips can come in the form of hardware too. ;)
 

SamirD

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Ive been shopping in this space recently. The $200/14tb shucked drive is as cheap as it gets. Period.

16tb in any flavor will be less tb/$. But then again, density.
I've seen $12/TB once or twice, but I think that was with stacking of other discounts. In the used market, there are currently some 8TB HGSTs with 30k-ish poh for $99 each, which is still $12.5/TB and no HGST warranty. But these are SAS and enterprise, not crippled 'could have been' sata enterprise drives.
 

SamirD

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Hey SamirD - Maybe you can help - I'm legit looking for 8-10-12, 14tb, 16tb or whatever good price per TB drives makes the most sense.
I've seen a post somewhere with someone wanting to unload 11 8TB used sata drives. PM me and I'll send you the link. (y)
 
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