Building $500 Budget Gaming Rig Feedback Wanted

genester

Weaksauce
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
102
Hey, this is my first post but I'm ready to start contributing to the forums. I've been researching a new rig for a while now, and I'm ready to replace my old Pentium 4 DDR AGP build from 4 years ago.

1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc

I'm a college student right now so mostly overall use, with some moderate gaming use thrown in. Trying to go futureproof on a budget.

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?

Around $500

3) Where do you live? San Diego, CA

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. Please be very specific.

I'm replacing everything except for 2 IDE hard drives and my 19" LCD.

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.

I'm reusing 2 old IDE hard drives and my 19" ASUS VW193T LCD. I also have a Asus V52 CPU Cooler

6) Will you be overclocking?

lightly, maybe more down the line (prolly up the ram mhz and fsb a little, but not cpu voltage tweak)

7) What size monitor do you have or plan to have? I have a 19" ASUS VW193T LCD.

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?

As soon as I have all the parts

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? etc.

I don't really need RAID, Firewire, or Crossfire, but it would be nice as a futureproof build.

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? Yes

Parts I Already Bought
Frys E8400 Mobo combo from Frys for $150
Thermaltake WingRS 201 for $30AR ($10) from Frys
Corsair 2 x 2GB XMS 5-5-5-18 for $10AR ($25) from Amazon with $15 GC

Parts I Am Very Close to Buying
Gigabyte EP45-UD3P for $117AR ($20)
PC Power & Cooling 500W for $50AR ($20)

I haven't decided on a video card yet, leaning towards HD4850 for $130 AR on newegg.

I've spent $190AR ($60) so far. If I get the mobo and psu it will put me at $357 after $100 in rebates, just enough room for a nice video card. I'm planning on buying a couple of sata drives for RAID and a second graphics card for Crossfire later down the line, will that PSU handle that? I'm mostly looking for feedback or suggestions. Thanks alot in advance.
 
if you are only gaming on a 19" I wouldnt buy a Xfire mobo.
 
I see what your saying, but I figured for only $10 more from the UD3R, I might as well get the extra PCI-E slot. I am trying to build a rig that will last as long as possible, and I will probably upgrade to a 22" in like a year, so thats why I decided to get the Xfire.
 
Stop using after-rebate prices. Mail-in rebates aren't 100% guaranteed (despite how lucky you've been thus far) and those amounts don't tell me how much you have left to spend. Not counting the mail-in rebate amounts, but including shipping and/or taxes, what's the most that you're willing to spend on this build? (And please give us the total cost, including shipping and/or taxes, or the parts that you've already purchased. While the NewEgg links are nice, if they're to be included within the $500 limit, they don't give us the accurate price.)

Which motherboard (specific brand and model) comes with the Fry's E8400 deal?

Unless you plan on getting a 24" or larger monitor within the next 12 months, you don't need CrossFire or SLI. With that in mind, go with a different, cheaper motherboard with onboard RAID, like the EP45-UD3LR or the EP45-UD3R.

Since most motherboards have only one IDE, which will be used by both of your hard drives, you should pick up a SATA optical drive. The Samsung SH-S223F is a good choice that doesn't cost an arm or a leg.

Though the PC Power & Cooling PSU is a good choice, I believe in having a bit more headroom for future upgrades. For around the same price (before MIR), you could pick up the BFG Tech LS-550, which supports up to 41A combined on its 12V rails (versus 35A on the PC P&C).
 
Thanks for the feedback, I'll stop using AR prices. I'm careful about following rebates to a T, but you never know. I was thinking $500 budget not including tax or shipping, since tax is unavoidable, and I generally lean towards free shipping, so it isn't a big conern. The motherboard it came with was the ECS G31T-M. I thought about using it, but decided on selling it on ebay for ~$35. I get that I dont need the Xfire support, but isn't it worth it considering the price difference? The optical drive looks great, thanks. As far as the psu, since I'm ditching Xfire, I think 35A will be plenty, no?

Already Purchased:
CPU/MOBO: E8400/ECS G31T-M Combo : $150
CASE: Thermaltake WingRs 201: $40 ($10R)
RAM: CORSAIR 2 X 2GB CL5: $40 ($30R)
subtotal: $230 - ($40Rebates)

Close to Purchasing:
MOBO GA-EP45-UD3R: $120 ($15R)
PSU PC POWER & COOLING 500W: $70 ($20R)
subtotal: $420 - ($75Rebates)
 
Personally, I don't think of CrossFire/SLI as a must have feature on a motherboard. It only starts to become a real benefit for those who game with high visual settings (often with AA/AF) at a 1920x1200 or greater resolution, since beyond that point, virtually no single-GPU card on its own can handle those demands. Even with your proposed upgrade to a 22" monitor, you really have no need for CrossFire or SLI.

Having said all of that, if you still want the EP45-UD3R and you can afford it, then go ahead and get it.

I still recommend the BFG LS-550 because it has more power than the PC P&C Silencer. Yes, 35A would be enough for your system with an HD4850, but you could get a bit more power for around the same price (ignoring the MIR on the PC P&C PSU).
 
I agree with the rest of the posters, change the motherboard and get one for $70-80, SLi\crossfire is a waste.

As stated above, you might want a better PSU if you're looking into future proofing. 500W is minimum on a lot of the current cards.
 
I'll sell you a gaming rig for $500 or less. PM me and I'll send you all the detail and images of the system.
 
Also, if you want it cheap, buy all your parts from this forums. There are many good deals around here :)
 
how long do you intend to keep this build? the 3ghz e8400 is enough to adequately feed current gen single gpu video cards. since you're gaming on a 12x10 lcd, i would suggest staying with the ecs board and use your mobo money to get a better video card like a 4850 512.
 
how long do you intend to keep this build? the 3ghz e8400 is enough to adequately feed current gen single gpu video cards. since you're gaming on a 12x10 lcd, i would suggest staying with the ecs board and use your mobo money to get a better video card like a 4850 512.
I want this build to last as long as possible since I'll prolly be a bit strapped for major upgrades. I'm a little confused, my monitors native is 1400 x 900, I thought it was a waste to get a 4850 because I wont be anywhere near 1900 x 1200, why cut out a customizeable mobo for a shitty one?
 
I can get a Antec Basiq 500W with Emprex DVD sata burner for $40 of CL, is it a good buy?
 
I can get a Antec Basiq 500W with Emprex DVD sata burner for $40 of CL, is it a good buy?

Nope. The Antec Basiq line is low quality and I would not trust one in a gaming system. Hell I wouldn't trust them in an office system..

The HD4850 is more than enough for 1280x1024 gameplay. Considering that the HD4850 is only $30 more than the 9800GT/HD4830 yet outperforms them even at the that low res and the fact that you say want this build to last as long as possible, that extra $30 for the extra performance offered by the HD4850 is well worth it.

As for the ECS mobo, as long as you don't overclock at all and keep them well cooled, they can last 2-3 years.
 
I want this build to last as long as possible since I'll prolly be a bit strapped for major upgrades. I'm a little confused, my monitors native is 1400 x 900, I thought it was a waste to get a 4850 because I wont be anywhere near 1900 x 1200, why cut out a customizeable mobo for a shitty one?

the 4850 512 is adequate for 1900 but its better suited for 1600 or lower where you can turn up the aa. with a better mobo, you'll be able to probably overclock that e8400 to 4ghz, but a 4ghz cpu isn't going to turn a $100 video card into something capable of playing gta4 maxed out. the e8400+4850 512 will allow you to play plenty of games with good frame rates at your resolution.
 
What do you guys think about the GIGABYTE GA-EP45-DS3L? Its $100 - $15MIR. I prolly don't need the RAID, I think thats the only difference between the UD3R.
 
What do you guys think about the GIGABYTE GA-EP45-DS3L? Its $100 - $15MIR. I prolly don't need the RAID, I think thats the only difference between the UD3R.

Go with the GA-EP43-DS3L instead. Exact same specs as the EP45-DS3L but just based on the P43 chipset. The P43 chipset is basically the P45 chipset but without Crossfire support and support for only 8GB of RAM. The GA-EP43-DS3L should be around $80 to $85 without rebates.

Oh and theres a other differences beteewn the EP43-DS3L/EP45-DS3L and the UD3R:

The UD3R has 8 SATA ports, RAID, firewire, a second gigabit port, support for 16GB of RAM, optional eSATA, and excellent overclocks and heatpipe cooling for the north bridge and mosfets/phases

Both DS3Ls only have 6 SATA ports, max support of 8GB (P43) or 16GB (P45), only one gigabit port. and moderate overclocks.
 
I found a free shipping code for the UD3P, so I think I'm gonna go for it. Its AR price is just too low and I'm willing to spend $20 extra for it. It's $9 shipping on the rest of the Gigabyte mobo's. I can get the HD3870 $90 - $10MIR with FS, I know its not the best card, but for $80AR its very tempting. What do you guys think?

P.S. The FS code for UD3P is EMCABAGCA. It's from their newsletter, I didn't see it earlier. Code expires tonight.
 
I can get the HD3870 $90 - $10MIR with FS, I know its not the best card, but for $80AR its very tempting. What do you guys think?

Tiraides already made my feelings known about factoring in rebates. :)
 
I would go with these:

PSU - BFG LS-550 for $80($20 MIR). 40A on the +12V rail (Enough to power a 4870 512MB, 4870 1gig, GTX 260(192), GTX 260(216) and even a GTX 280 1gig.

Mobo - Go with the Gigabyte GA-EP43-DS3L for $80. No sense getting additional features on the higher price mobos if you will not utilize those features.

Video Card - I personally would just settle for 9800GT or HD4830 for a 19" lcd. Since the Sapphire Radeon HD 4830 is $100($10 MIR) I would just get that for now. It's a huge ass upgrade from your P4/AGP system. I would go for the HD 4850 512Mb if you had a 20-22" display with 1600 x 1200 res or 1680 x 1050 res.

However, if you don't mind spending a little more for the HD 4850 512MB then, shoot for that. But, I would definitely beef up the PSU a little more just in case you upgrade your monitor and video card later down the road.

You know, since you have that ECS G31 chipset mobo onhand, I will just use that for now. I wouldn't buy another motherboard. Just get the PSU and video card. Trying to cut cost as much as possible with your budget. ECS mobo is not the greatest in overclocking area but, performance is decent. I did not realize that you got the ECS board as a combo already. So, personally I would get

PSU - BFG LS-550 for $80($20 MIR) 40A on the +12V
Video Card - Radeon HD 4850 512MB for $130 AR.
 
I realize I'm being stubborn but I pulled the trigger on the UD3P, just couldn't help it. It's not the features but the stability that sold me. The free shipping saved me $9 which bridges the price difference in the DS3L to $22, a price I'm willing to pay. I thought about using the ECS, but I figured I'd get more use out of it selling it for $35 unopened. Are the extra 50W and 5A worth $20 extra?
 
Tiraides already made my feelings known about factoring in rebates. :)
Maybe I'm being nieve, but if I make a copy of all my doc's and send it with plenty of time to spare I feel like I'm covered. I might learn a lesson on this one.
 
Check out this review of the HD4830. It keeps up with the 9800GT, which is based off the 8800GT and is known to beat out the HD3870.
Thank you, that review was very informative. I'm seriously considering buying the HD4830 for $100 w/ $10MIR and OC'ing it close to the HD4850. Seems like a great way to save $50.
 
I have a slight problem, my mobo, ram, and case are all here and I need to file rebates for them. I still haven't found a psu or graphics card, and I don't want to send out the rebates before testing the parts first. I can borrow my gf's Radeon x600 and use my old PSU to see if everything works, is that a good idea? Do you guys think an Antec 350W can power E8400, 2 x 2GB DDR2 800, x600, 2 IDE HDD's, 3 case fans, and a 19" LCD?
 
Test each part individually. Test one RAM at a time, one HDD at a time, no case fans... do all this testing outside of the case, with the board on top of its cardboard box. The LCD does not plug into the PSU, so thats irrelevant. :p That Antec 350W SHOULD be able to handle that... only if it has a 4-pin P4 ATX12V connector. All you're testing for is POST and hardware detection. Thats as far as you should go.
 
I looked for a model name but I couldn't find one. It has a SmartPower sticker, is that a model? Thanks for the advice enginurd. Do I check for hardware detection in the BIOS? That's the only part I'm not sure how to do.

What do you guys think about the Silverstone Zeus ST56ZF 560W? It has 38A on a single 12v rail. Its $50 after shipping w/ no rebate at frys online.
 
If it says SmartPower or TruePower, avoid it -- the early models have a known history of dying randomly and often.

As for hardware detection, the motherboard will produce a series of beeps if it finds something wrong. The motherboard's user manual will tell you what each series of beeps stands for.
 
ST56ZF says $76 for me at frys.com. $50 would have been a good deal, IMO.

Yah, avoid using the Antec Smartpower to run the system, but just to test it, it *should* be fine. If you get the POST beep and it allows you to go into the BIOS, check that the HDD is detected and that the amount of RAM is correct, then repeat with the other stick of RAM and HDD, then thats it. However, if I were you, I'd avoid testing the HDDs, since those take a lot of power to spinup at startup.

BTW, does it say Smartpower 2.0 or just Smartpower?
 
Ok, I'm pretty much done with my build. I got the Asus HD4850 for $145 - $30MIR from Newegg and I'm most likely going to get the PC P&C 750W SIlencer for $100 - $35 MIR. I realize that 750W is overkill, but it gives me a ton of flexibility for future upgrades. That would put my total at $612 - $125MIR. I'm still planning on selling my ECS mobo for $35, so that allows me to lose out on a couple of rebates and still break even at $500.
 
Update: Slight change of plans. I got in on a NSK 6580 with a EA430W for $40 w/o rebate @ Fry's. Cancelled the 750W silencer; too much overkill and dont wanna deal with OCZ rebate. Not sure if the 430W can power my rig, so I bought a Antec True Power Trio 650W for $50 also w/o rebate from Fry's. Prolly gonna return the Thermaltake WingRS 201 case and sell the EA430W for ~$35. What do you guys think? Good decision?

P.S. I sold the ECS G31T-M on craigslist for $40!
 
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