I'll get a video or pictures posted later but ya, what happens is when the cursor comes on the screen it does light up a whole column of the screen just on account of how the diffusor works, but it is clearly brighter on the bottom, where the cursor is. As you move it up, that shifts. This is on Mode 0.I'll review some videos I took earlier of both the WN and AW and make a few gifs to see how they behaved.
Curious to see even a picture if yours with the say a black screen and cursor at the top edge.
So my replacement AW3821DW finally came in and I had some time to compare all three (LG 38GN950, defective AW3821DW, and new AW3821DW) screens.
First off, getting the new AW3821DW highlighted some other things that were broken on my original. I thought it was some weird thing locked to the preset modes that prevented me from accessing the brightness control (contrast was available, but not brightness), and similarly being able to turn variable black light off (I could select any mode except "off"). The new screen lets me adjust all of those where the old screen had them greyed out and unselectable.
Speaking of variable backlight, the LG never fully turns off the backlight like the AW does, so the AW is able to achieve deeper blacks. As other has mentioned, the AW has more/finer variable backlit zones than the LG too. Backlight bleed-wise, my LG is more uniform than both AWs. The LG has bleed at all four corners, and the amount of bleed is pretty much the same from all of them. It's not too much. On both AWs the bleed is more variable coming from all four corners. On my new screen it ranges from practiaclly no bleed on the lower left, to a lot more bleed than the LG on the upper right. The defective AW was difficult to test since I can't turn off the variable backlight mode so I had to use the mouse to get the local backlight zone to turn on.
Using the Eizo monitor test, it looks like the gamma on both AWs is 2.5, and it's 2.6 on my LG. Also using their response time test the results were interesting. On the LG I can set the pixel distance to 20 before the blocks look like they're starting to overlap at the fastest scroll speed. This is using the default/slowest response setting. With both of the AWs the minimum distance is 35 pixels, even if I increase the response time settings.
Ah, you're right! I forgot what I had originally set the monitor to in the OS with this PC since it died so soon after getting it. Disabling HDR let me see the bleed better, and it's more variable like the good AW panel compared to the LG.Brightness and Variable Backlight controls: What you described, no brightness slider and no off for local dimming, sounds like the monitor is in HDR mode. On your defective screen, when you go into the monitor settings, top right row of icons, does it show "Smart HDR" as "On"?
Bummer so they have the Dell 38 and 40 with uniformity comp and KVM but no adaptive sync and HDR and the AW with adaptive sync and HDR but no uni comp and not even basic input switching forget KVM..may be I need to get an auto display switcher for work and gaming lol and keep 2 38" screens back to back Though in all seriousness guess my XR382 will have to continue soldiering on for a while...acceptable uniformity, 75Hz, freesync, auto input switching with a manual KVM and useless HDR it is ...It does not. It's an Alienware thing.
They are not the exact same panel, Dell uses a different backlight compared to the similar LG one. Keeping an eye out for the LG 40" one though I have found that Lg's housing tends to pinch panels on the sides and cause glow/blb/uniformity issues more than Dell. Only Asus is worse in that regard. Their bezels almost always pinch and cause massive BLB.LG's models do have auto input. Dell uses the same panels. I prefer Dell due to warranty.
Weren’t people concerned about the input lag on this monitor after some guy released a video early on saying it was bad? RTINGS clearly has a different opinion:RTINGS will have their AW review up in a few days as well. Currently it's in early access as it's being finished:
You have to remember that measuring lag is really hard and really requires special equipment. The chances that some guy doing it at home with a camera gets it right is very low.Weren’t people concerned about the input lag on this monitor after some guy released a video early on saying it was bad? RTINGS clearly has a different opinion:
I bet the lower brightness on the AW is the reason why you can barely hear the fan on the gsync module. The 38wn95c may not have a fan but it doesn’t have the gsync module either.I was glad to learn it wasn’t as bad as the less scientific test done in that one review. I think he was mostly saying he felt a difference between the other LG monitor he had.
Checking RTINGs 38WN95c, that one had slightly better input lag over the AW.
Still, both are good.
I’m surprised by the HDR brightness on the AW compared to that LG.
That's the absolute truth. The monitor feels much more responsive with a good gaming mouse. There is a huge difference between my Master MX 2S and my Razer Basilisk Ultimate.Make sure you have a good mouse to make use of these high-refresh screens.
Over the weekend I returned my 1+ year old Logitech G-Pro Mouse at Best Buy (Geek Squad Warranty) and put my credit towards the new Superlight. It wasn't instock and would arrive in 4 days (arrived today).
During the 4-day wait, I had to use some old mouses, a Logitech MX Anywhere 2 and Master MX 2S (Just too heavy to use now for work). During that time, I started to play the game Valheim. Despite running usually 80+ fps (maxed out at full resolution), the game didn't feel smooth when moving the camera. Like there was a slight stutter. Moving the character with the keyboard appeared smooth. Basically, it felt like the mouse was polling less that 144hz, like half. Checking the cursor on the desktop, spinning in a circle really fast, I couldn't see as many cursors in the motion at once, looked and felt closer to my 60hz screen. Both were using their receivers and not bluetooth. I also installed Logitech Options (to change the middle button, but I don't think I noticed any polling rate options - will check again)
The Superlight, upon connecting, the cursor immediately felt smooth again on the desktop. Firing up Valheim, which I had only played with the older mouses, the stutter magically disappeared and moving the camera with the Superlight felt silky smooth.
So if you haven't upgraded to a gaming mouse, you should give it a shot with your high-refresh screen.
Yes, but only when turning on in-game HDR. You don't get the crushed blacks with Windows HDR turned on and games run in SDR.Anyone else with a AW3821DW getting very bad crushed blacks when HDR is turned on?
Having to set Dark Stabilizer to 3 somewhat helps, but still is super bad. Makes any HDR content unwatchable
Hmmm I don't use it for films. Also stopped using the PC with MadVR a while ago, after getting an Nvidia Shield.I get it worse with MadVR playing back HDR files. With windows HDR turned off and MadVR HDR api running
RTX 3080Hmmm I don't use it for films. Also stopped using the PC with MadVR a while ago, after getting an Nvidia Shield.
Your experience makes sense though... MadVR will be using the video card's HDR API, same as games that have HDR support do.
What do card do you have, Nvidia (as I do) or AMD?
If Nvidia, I wonder if anyone here has an AMD card and is willing to test and comment on the HDR output, either in games or with MadVR.
Although I expect most if not all people getting the AW will be Nvidia owners, going with the AW for the G-sync module...