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Ask me your case modding questions, I will answer.

Q

Qtip42

[H]is Modness
Joined
Mar 16, 2000
Messages
6,726
We seem to get a lot of simple questions here lately and sometimes I want to smack my head into the desk just reading them. So use this thread to ask away. If I can't answer something, I'm sure someone else here will. Be descriptive in your questioning.

Rules: Dont ask about which cases to buy.


ASK CASE MODIFICATION QUESTIONS ONLY.


gogogo...
 
what's your preferred method for making your own rounded cables? I've been thinking of doing it to my box soon. every two wires? every four, five?

do tell :p
 
Buy premade rounded cables. It is not worth your time to cut up your IDE cables. They'll look much better than what you can do by hand. Spend the majority of your time modding the case and not dealing with little details like cables.

Power supply cables on the other hand, can be braided to look nice and purdy.
 
Actually I have a bit of spare time and would rather spend $1 on electrical tape than $20 per cable to buy them in a stoore and I don't have a credit card yet (still waiting to hear back from visa) so no online ordering. and it'll take like 1-2 hours max to do this mod so I don't really see a problem with it :p

so anyone have any suggestions? (I'm reading some FAQs now to get opinions on # of cables to leave together)

Peace
 
Do you mod your cat? lololol, kidding

Where do you buy your case modding stuff?
 
i rounded my dads and my cables last night with less then 1 roll of tape. it was fun and I saved around 50 bucks~ :p
 
Perrupa said:
Actually I have a bit of spare time and would rather spend $1 on electrical tape than $20 per cable to buy them in a stoore and I don't have a credit card yet (still waiting to hear back from visa) so no online ordering. and it'll take like 1-2 hours max to do this mod so I don't really see a problem with it :p

so anyone have any suggestions? (I'm reading some FAQs now to get opinions on # of cables to leave together)

Peace
Click to expand...


electrical tape will leave a sticky residue when it needs to be taken off. Also looks ghetto :D hehehe. They cost less than $10/cable too......Case modding isn't for the poor.
 
ToyYoda03 said:
Do you mod your cat? lololol, kidding

Where do you buy your case modding stuff?
Click to expand...

lolol......The vet took her fangs out when they got too big.......technically she's modded.

I buy my hardware from newegg. Metal from Swan Island Sheet Metal. Plastic from Tap Plastics. Everything else is probably from a hardware store.
 
I like doing my own!. plus when it comes time to take them off, i will just get more cables. why would I have to take the tape off? I like the sticky stuff left over. i use it for graphic card heatsinks ;)
 
Rounding your own IDE cables can sometimes look better than prebought ones if done cleanly and seeing as how I'm in Guelph, Ontario there's no good stores abouts. Generic IDE cables cost $20 CAD locally here :p

I usually shop at Canada Computers when I'm in Toronto or somewhere in the computer district at least.

Peace

PS: dogs > cats

PPS: spaying/neutering/declawing is modding in my books too :p
 
and really, why would I ever take the tape off? in case I wanted them to ribbons again? :rolleyes:
 
DR_K13 said:
I like doing my own!. plus when it comes time to take them off, i will just get more cables. why would I have to take the tape off? I like the sticky stuff left over. i use it for graphic card heatsinks ;)
Click to expand...

Getting more cables = Spending more money when you could have spent that money on premade ones that'll last a lifetime without any sticky residue.

You use the sticky stuff for graphic card heatsinks? wtf
eek13131313.gif
 
Perrupa said:
and really, why would I ever take the tape off? in case I wanted them to ribbons again? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Considering you are a modder, people get ideas to mod things all the time. What happens if you need to mode the IDE cable in the future (maybe for HDD activity light) ?......edit: since yer canadian, I also suggest moving to the U.S. so you won't have this problem anymore hehe.
 
Qtip42 said:
since yer canadian, I also suggest moving to the U.S. so you won't have this problem anymore hehe.
Click to expand...

funny stuff...... :mad:

Qtip42 said:
Considering you are a modder, people get ideas to mod things all the time. What happens if you need to mode the IDE cable in the future (maybe for HDD activity light) ?
Click to expand...

I'm not much of an electrician yet so none of that kind of stuff and anyways IDE is a dying standard anyways :p that and I work for the computer department of my university so if need electrical cables it's not too hard to grab an ide cable or two.

Peace
 
Perrupa said:
funny stuff...... :mad:



I'm not much of an electrician yet so none of that kind of stuff and anyways IDE is a dying standard anyways :p that and I work for the computer department of my university so if need electrical cables it's not too hard to grab an ide cable or two.

Peace
Click to expand...


such anger......its a nice day, go outside :D cheer up buddy, I only give advice.
 
ignitionxvi said:
is it hard painting the inside of the case?
Click to expand...

Yes. Depending on the type of paint and type of case you plan to paint. A regular tower case should be de-riveted, then all the parts should be prepped (sanded w/ 400 grit minimum) and primered. Then it is your choice to use spraypaint or automotive paint. Spray paint is pretty simple and doesn't require much money. Automotive painting requires at least having a compressor, hvlp gun, paint booth (optional). In addition, the paint is spendy per pint.

If you are lazy, you can paint without taking the internals apart but I dont suggust doing that.
 
2 questions

1) there was a thread where someone painted there mx700 with duplicolor metalcast red. I have tried to find this paint in green to do the same with mine but cant find it at any local auto stores or hardware stores. any other suggestions?

2) is there any way to get scratches out of plexi or is the only way to do that replacing the plexi?
 
You idiots, this thread isnt "ask a question you've already answered for yourself and disagree with the response"
 
lol heatsink sink stuff was a joke, but serious, I find old ribbons at work on old crashed rigs and make my own . so I can save my cash for better things , like more cases or memory. unless I was doing a show rig to be put on display, I will do my own !
 
brunswik stu said:
2 questions

1) there was a thread where someone painted there mx700 with duplicolor metalcast red. I have tried to find this paint in green to do the same with mine but cant find it at any local auto stores or hardware stores. any other suggestions?

2) is there any way to get scratches out of plexi or is the only way to do that replacing the plexi?
Click to expand...



1.) Yes I remember a thread like it: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=759445 ....The color you are going for is more of a swirl kinda thing rather than a mix. I'm sure a metallic green can be found at any local autozone along with a lighter green. You'll also want to pick up a clearcoat. A good way to replicate this look is to paint in layers. After you primer your mouse, paint a basecoat then let it dry and mask the area with the swirl look you like and do a light coating. Repeat until desired results are met.

My suggestion instead of using spraypaint is to find a local airbrusher who will replicate the look for you. You'd be amazed at what they can do. PM me and I'll show you an example of airbrushing blended in a similar fashion.


2.) To get scratches out of acrylic/plexi/whatever: Determine how deep the scratch is. If it's deep, start with a lower grit sandpaper. If not, start with 400grit sandpaper. If it's a very light scratch, go pick up this stuff:
794_8142076.gif


Either way you start, you'll want to wetsand your piece up to 1500 grit or more. Then apply the Novus polish either by hand or using a polisher. Be careful not to burn the surface, so go slow.

You'll never fully reproduce the perfect reflection that acrylic originally comes with but you can get close. If the piece you have can be replicated easily, I'd suggest getting a new one. I'm a perfectionist though.
 
Whatsisname said:
You idiots, this thread isnt "ask a question you've already answered for yourself and disagree with the response"
Click to expand...


heheh <3
 
Yes it will but why would you put a dell mobo in anything but the garbage?
 
not enough money to replace mobo and psu now....

case now....mobo and psu in future
 
It takes $50 to replace a mobo and a p/s if you look in the right places.
 
Okay, I've been around since the forums and modding scene started, but I have a dumbass question (or two :))

Here goes:

When painting a case with riveted panels, you have to drill out the panels. What size rivet should I use to put the panels back on?

What is the best guide out there to doing a thorough job on painting?

What is the best brand of spray paint (is there)?

Do you use the polishing compound and glaze after the clear coat, or before the clearcoat? I'm pretty sure that you need to put a clear coat down, then the compound evens things out and the glaze moisturizes the paint, but please clarify.

Also, if I want to spend 200-300 having my case painted, why not get an air compressor and such? What do I need to get started?

Have fun and thanks for the help :D
 
Perrupa said:
what's your preferred method for making your own rounded cables? I've been thinking of doing it to my box soon. every two wires? every four, five?

do tell :p
Click to expand...
i do every 4 wires... and dont just twist them up and tape it... stack up the strips NEATLY, then tape it... i rounded a LOT of my cables and first one i did, i just seperated the wires and twisted it together and taped it, it looked like crap.. my ones later on were stacked together then wrapped with electrical tape which looked a LOT nicer

to the issue about removing tape to make the cable a ribbon again.. i dont see why you would want to do that, its better to just get a new one or take one from an old computer... but if you do take tape off, it might be because you wanna mod it (like mentioned above)... now, you would wonder, why would you take it off to mod it?... well, this applies to people who cannot access to a new cable or cant afford one so they have to take tape off... ive done mods where i needed the cables to be flat against something to save space... flat ribbon cables can lie down on surfaces and taped down
 
very true, I have kept them in ribbon form and folded them up into a little square and tucked them away. sometimes rounding them is not the best thing to do.
 
Hey this is pretty cool!
I want to hookup some USB inputs on the front of my case but I want to do it in a way so that there is an LED that lights up when you plug in a cable, I've been trying to find a guide for this but so far no joy.

Also what would be needed if I wanted to start using Automotive grade paint?
I have a few more questions but I can't remember all of them right now :)
 
EPS Sniper said:
Okay, I've been around since the forums and modding scene started, but I have a dumbass question (or two :))

Here goes:

When painting a case with riveted panels, you have to drill out the panels. What size rivet should I use to put the panels back on?

What is the best guide out there to doing a thorough job on painting?

What is the best brand of spray paint (is there)?

Do you use the polishing compound and glaze after the clear coat, or before the clearcoat? I'm pretty sure that you need to put a clear coat down, then the compound evens things out and the glaze moisturizes the paint, but please clarify.

Also, if I want to spend 200-300 having my case painted, why not get an air compressor and such? What do I need to get started?

Have fun and thanks for the help :D
Click to expand...


1.) There's a couple of ways of getting the right rivet. 1.) gauge the size (guess and check) 2.) measure the diameter of the rivet head (the round dome part). 3.) Drill one out then take it to the store with you and match it up correctly. :D I'd give exact measurements but i haven't unriveted a case in like 3 years (since I stopped using regular cases). A wild shot in the dark would be 1/4"

2.) Probably not the best guide ever but it's the first one to come up in google. http://guides.pimprig.com/pimprig_paintshop/painting_a_computer_case_:_the_basics.php
When painting (I assume you are using spray paint) just remember everything can be fixed by letting it dry and starting over. If you can afford it, I suggest other coatings such as powdercoat, automotive paint, or plating. Spraypainting requires a lot more hands on work to get a good finish. Look to spend between $20-50 on materials for spraying it. Paint, masking tape (the blue stuff), wax and grease remover, etc are just some of the things you'll need....If anyone has a link to a really good guide, speak up!

3.) There's huge differences between spraypaint brands. Don't get the cheapass $1.50 stuff on sale. Krylon and Dupli-Color are pretty dang good.

4.) Compounds......Dont apply any sort of compound until after all your painting is finished. There is a finishing compound by 3M called FinesseIt II that is incredible stuff. It's meant for car paint jobs but I'm almost positive it will help spraypaint too. Also, dont "moisturize" your paint job with any sort of wax for a few days....let it dry. A side note, if you dont want to get an automotive paint job........at least after you are finished with your spraypaint job, consider an automotive clearcoat. It'll give your paintjob the look you want and it shouldn't cost too much.

5.) You SHOULD get the materials to do automotive paint jobs yourself. The problem with that is that you need a paint booth or else you're probably breaking a law. Automotive paint isn't supposed to be sold to the general public, that is why it doesn't have full directions on the can when you buy it. I haven't once been questioned at the store I go to but thats only because I started off working at a friend's shop with a booth when I first started going there.

If you can get the paint, here's what else you need:

-air compressor
-hvlp paint gun
-strainers
-lacquer thinner (for cleaning the paint gun)
-toothbrush and pipe cleaners (for cleaning the paint gun)
-stirring sticks
-paint (single stage or basecoat & clearcoat) ....btw brand names matter
-proper reducer and hardener
-tack cloth
-wax and grease remover
-plastic to cover the walls (if you dont have a booth....this will keep contaminents off your work)
-chemical mask
-saw horses or boxes to do the painting on
-Box fans to blow air out of the area you are painting in and filtered air coming in the opposite side of the fans. This keeps the overspray from settling on the surface of your work
-Buffer/polisher

There's probably more but that's all i can think of for now. Look to spend between $400-500 to get started. Once you have everything, it takes practice to get the painting right. If you put it on wrong it'll orange peel (one of my last jobs did this and I had to wetsand like mad then polish it up again).
 
CrimandEvil said:
Hey this is pretty cool!
I want to hookup some USB inputs on the front of my case but I want to do it in a way so that there is an LED that lights up when you plug in a cable, I've been trying to find a guide for this but so far no joy.

Also what would be needed if I wanted to start using Automotive grade paint?
I have a few more questions but I can't remember all of them right now :)
Click to expand...


1.) I'm not much of the electronics junkie but I'd imagine if you google search for a "USB pin layout" and find which line is suppling enough voltage for your LED, you could splice into it, put a resistor on your LED, and connect it. Of course that's probably wrong and someone EE dork is laughing at me now. I doubt that'll make it turn on when you're plugging something in but it'll do something.....thats for sure :D It's worth a shot guessing a checking, especially if nobody has written a guide on it yet. Just go buy yourself a few cables which you can butcher and test till you find something that works. I can't imagine it'd do any harm if you fuck it up. :D PM Gee on the General Mayhem forums (not the genmay on [H], the other one), he's an electronics wiz I'm told.

2.) read my post above about the painting stuff
 
hey qtip, take a gander at my sig... That got a good chuckle outta me! :p
 
CrimandEvil said:
Heres a good guide for paint your case
Thanks!

I was going through some of my bookmarks and found this.It's for modding an Xbox controller but I think thats what I'm looking for.
Click to expand...


that cable in the article is for the contoller and not the actual female plug on the xbox. So it's tthe opposite of what you had asked for. I'm thinking if you did the same thing to the female end it'd light up all the time because it's always got power to it..........or maybe I'm just retarded.
 
Hmm I wonder if theres a way I could just have it turn on when the cable is plugged in. I thought it only supplied power when there was a contact? I think I need to think of something to help "bridge" (not sure if thats the right word) the contact, no?

Okay I remember seeing this alittle ways back and thats what gave me the idea. I see that the light is always on but it changes from blue to red when a cable is plugged in.
 
Very innnnnnteresting.........I have no idea though. I'm thinking it has a single LED doing both blue and red. I'm not sure how they change like that but it might have something to do with voltage level. Maybe when nothing is plugged in, there's only a little power going to it and then when something is plugged in there's more power flowing.

Your guess is as good as mine.
 
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