Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

shansoft said:
I have a question, any model of these have Displayport?
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You can use an active miniDP to DualLink Converter.
When you buy the AD-board version you can use a cheap miniDP to VGA/HDMI/DVI adapter but you won't get the full resolution without the expensive dual-link converter.
 
Some do have DP, such as the Crossover 2720MDP, Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSMDP/IPSTDP and Microboard Q270-DP. I can only see the Crossover 2720MDP on eBay though.
 
Vega said:
No, the DVI dual link spec of 330 MHz is just it's designed limit. Doesn't mean it's a hard limit. You are basically overclocking the signal over the cable. The monitor is running at those true Hz. As long as the RAMDAC can output he signal and the cable can transmit the signal without degradation, the Catleap will process it until it hit's it's max.
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To be a little more accurate,

There is no design maximum pixel clock for dual link DVI.

The limit of 165 mhz pixel clock is imposed on single link DVI. If you go beyond 165 mhz pixel clock, you must go to dual link DVI and split the pixel clock between the two links. The 330 mhz "limit" is people just saying that DL-DVI = 2x SL-DVI, but this is not strictly true. The DVI spec does not impose a similar limit 165mhz limit (per link) on DL-DVI. Thus, the only limitation in the DVI spec concerning pixel clock is that if you are going over 165mhz pixel clock, you must use DL-DVI. That's it. Every argument on the limitations of bandwidth on DVI is based off of this statement.

Copper's limitation is constantly being pushed. However there will be an actual physical limitation we've just yet to hit that wall.
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This is basically what they say in the DVI spec. Copper's the limiting factor, not the DVI spec.
 
Just took the leap and ordered a Catleap. For those of you with these displays how do FPS's look? I've read through this thread and the one on OC a bit that report these displays are ok for gaming but just curious on people's first hand experience, specifically with FPS's like MW3 and BF3.
 
evilwhitey said:
Just took the leap and ordered a Catleap. For those of you with these displays how do FPS's look? I've read through this thread and the one on OC a bit that report these displays are ok for gaming but just curious on people's first hand experience, specifically with FPS's like MW3 and BF3.
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The biggest issue with these panels is dead pixels it seems , many people end up without any to speak of but there is a chance you will. And if you have to return it because there are dead pixels in the center of the monitor than you'll be in for some expensive turn around costs.

I took a lot of time to think on my purchase and I believe it was worth while. So I would advise you to go a head. NCX just bought a Catleap I believe and he always reviews his displays so if you want to wait and see what he thinks , he'll give you a through review on it.
 
fullhd99 said:
who the seller on ebay any link?
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I bought mine from limsunjung, the rest of his 2720MDP's are 500$+

I have a feeling I will end up with the non revised version which is a piece of junk since he changed the image to say it is newly revised..... or maybe he just found out about the revision and wanted to let people know. I assume these sellers know about some of these threads

sadbuttrue said:
Review incoming, NCX? :)
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Playerwares pretty much covered everything except input lag (which I will test with SMTT 2.0) in their review. IMO the unit they reviewed is easily one of the best displays available as far as multi-input displays go. I probably should have just spent the 460$ and gambled on the catleap multi and hope to receive an oc'able multi which would be epic.

I will probably create a review or make an informative video of some sort.
 
kevinsbane said:
To be a little more accurate,

There is no design maximum pixel clock for dual link DVI.

The limit of 165 mhz pixel clock is imposed on single link DVI. If you go beyond 165 mhz pixel clock, you must go to dual link DVI and split the pixel clock between the two links. The 330 mhz "limit" is people just saying that DL-DVI = 2x SL-DVI, but this is not strictly true. The DVI spec does not impose a similar limit 165mhz limit (per link) on DL-DVI. Thus, the only limitation in the DVI spec concerning pixel clock is that if you are going over 165mhz pixel clock, you must use DL-DVI. That's it. Every argument on the limitations of bandwidth on DVI is based off of this statement.



This is basically what they say in the DVI spec. Copper's the limiting factor, not the DVI spec.
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Thanks for that post, certainly explained somethings for me.
 
This thread has become gigantic. There needs to be a wiki that is updated or something.
 
117pp... so confusing...which one of these do you want with least input lag?

I also heard about 120hz, which one is that?
 
ZoNe said:
117pp... so confusing...which one of these do you want with least input lag?

I also heard about 120hz, which one is that?
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As long as it's DVI-D only then it'll have ultra low input lag, less than 1/2 frame (less than 8ms). The ones with hdmi will have a scaler and 16-24ms input lag.


For 100-120hz you'll need the Catleap with revision 2B parts inside, these are nearly extinct in the wild though.

Here's the site to research and purchase them, they arrive in lots of a 100 but sell out fast: www.120hz.net
 
SJetski71 said:
As long as it's DVI-D only then it'll have ultra low input lag, less than 1/2 frame (less than 8ms). The ones with hdmi will have a scaler and 16-24ms input lag.


For 100-120hz you'll need the Catleap with revision 2B parts inside, these are nearly extinct in the wild though.

Here's the site to research and purchase them, they arrive in lots of a 100 but sell out fast: www.120hz.net
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Thanks a lot - this needs a wiki badly for those who don't want to read hundreds of post threads scattered across multiple forums. Looks one cant get 120hz and sold out in an hour. That bites.
 
ZoNe said:
Looks one cant get 120hz and sold out in an hour. That bites.
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They have at least 9 batches of 100 left, if i'm not mistaken.

It would take some monitoring and patience though.
 
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Does anyone know the difference between catleap Q270 LED and Q270 LED SE?

I think I've decided to try Catleap based on external looks, is that the best choice?

SJetski71 - Thanks - I tried to register @120hz to get in on one but they won't let me say I'm a spammer.
 
What's the deal with shipping on these monsters? I've heard people are getting them in 1 and 2 days. I bought mine on Friday and I got:

Expedited Shipping: FREE
Estimated delivery between Wed. May. 30 and Tue. Jun. 12 per eBay
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ugh, 2-4 weeks? Does everyone get that? The DHL tracking number hasn't been updated and they claim 2-5 days shipping. I wanted this thing for my D3 gaming on tuesday :mad:

Time to watch the DHL tracking like a hawk.
 
Bigdady92 said:
What's the deal with shipping on these monsters? I've heard people are getting them in 1 and 2 days. I bought mine on Friday and I got:



ugh, 2-4 weeks? Does everyone get that? The DHL tracking number hasn't been updated and they claim 2-5 days shipping. I wanted this thing for my D3 gaming on tuesday :mad:

Time to watch the DHL tracking like a hawk.
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Seller just didn't enter the right time into ebay. Once it hits DHL it will zoom towards you
 
Nosliw said:
Seller just didn't enter the right time into ebay. Once it hits DHL it will zoom towards you
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You are correct. Ebay's app sucks for DHL shipping. I went on DHL's site and now see this:

Next Step:
Export clearance process will resume as soon as the required license is provided. A DHL representative will attempt to contact Exporter for the export license
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Mother of God, this better not sit in customs for a month like my Cuban...chocolates did...
 
Bigdady92 said:
What's the deal with shipping on these monsters? I've heard people are getting them in 1 and 2 days. I bought mine on Friday and I got:

ugh, 2-4 weeks? Does everyone get that? The DHL tracking number hasn't been updated and they claim 2-5 days shipping. I wanted this thing for my D3 gaming on tuesday :mad:

Time to watch the DHL tracking like a hawk.
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DHL tracking often does not update. I ordered mine last monday night. Because Greensum was dealing with the first batch of 120hz.net displays going out, there was a 24 hour delay in mine being shipped, then it spent 24 hours sitting at customs in Korea. I called DHL on thursday to see what the hell was going on because the status still said only that it had departed Korea. It had arrived at their sorting facility in Cincinatti and was delivered to my office on friday morning. I was so worried that I wouldn't get it until today, but instead got the weekend to play with it and am thrilled.

Lesson, DHL sucks at updating tracking information but will get you your monitor quickly. My delivery estimate also said 2-3 weeks, but I had it within days of ordering.
 
Ordered mine from green-sum, he msged me on ebay asking if I need a 110-240v adapter instead of the 220v one that ships with it! I said yes and he included that instead, bonus. +1 for a good seller.
 
All of the Korean eBay sellers are very good. They all have outstanding ratings. Green-sum is tops in communication.
 
Godmachine said:
The biggest issue with these panels is dead pixels it seems , many people end up without any to speak of but there is a chance you will. And if you have to return it because there are dead pixels in the center of the monitor than you'll be in for some expensive turn around costs.

I took a lot of time to think on my purchase and I believe it was worth while. So I would advise you to go a head. NCX just bought a Catleap I believe and he always reviews his displays so if you want to wait and see what he thinks , he'll give you a through review on it.
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This is true because is LG IPS A- Grade Panel So many brands korean monitor sell at low prices in lokal market they sell $250-300 for standard specs only with DVI connector..
many buyers received this monitor with 1-3 Dead Pixel or Stuck pixel this is normal...if you want 100% guarantee Perfect pixel you must buy ACD 27",DELL 27.HP 27,NEC 27 with doubel price even more than korean monitor brand....Another option that you can get 2unit korean monitor brand with by price 1 unit major brand
 
ZoNe said:
Does anyone know the difference between catleap Q270 LED and Q270 LED SE?

I think I've decided to try Catleap based on external looks, is that the best choice?

SJetski71 - Thanks - I tried to register @120hz to get in on one but they won't let me say I'm a spammer.
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SE = No speakers, No tempered glass (A sheet of glass on the front of the monitor to protect the screen, can sometimes have dust behind and be annoying, but it is removable).

If you PM me I'll send you the email of an Admin over at 120Hz.net who will make sure your registration gets through. He installed a LOT of spam-block software :p

Also, as far as I can tell Catleaps are not the best of these Korean monitors unless you get an OC'able one. However, if you like the looks of them then by all means haha.
 
Digital Viper-X- said:
Ordered mine from green-sum, he msged me on ebay asking if I need a 110-240v adapter instead of the 220v one that ships with it! I said yes and he included that instead, bonus. +1 for a good seller.
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Correct me if I'm mistaken but the standard adapter that these ship with cover US power right? Since you are Canadian, according to your profile, that's why you need different power?


The standard plug works just fine right?
 
Bigdady92 said:
Correct me if I'm mistaken but the standard adapter that these ship with cover US power right? Since you are Canadian, according to your profile, that's why you need different power?


The standard plug works just fine right?
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No, it ships with a 220V adapter which works in Korea, middle east, most of europe?

US and Canada use 120V, so the model I ordered comes default with 220v, he included the 110-240v adapter ( which works everywhere)
 
Digital Viper-X- said:
No, it ships with a 220V adapter which works in Korea, middle east, most of europe?

US and Canada use 120V, so the model I ordered comes default with 220v, he included the 110-240v adapter ( which works everywhere)
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HMMMM

Is that just a standard power plug that fits into the back of the power brick? No problem with people using a standard PC power cord? I have a BAJILLION here at work so that's not a big deal if that's the case.
 
hey guys, i am looking to buy one of these monitors but have a quick question... when it says with and without glass does it mean tempered glass? the ones without glass are what? matte? and which ones are people usually buying?
 
Sn0_Man said:
SE = No speakers, No tempered glass (A sheet of glass on the front of the monitor to protect the screen, can sometimes have dust behind and be annoying, but it is removable).

If you PM me I'll send you the email of an Admin over at 120Hz.net who will make sure your registration gets through. He installed a LOT of spam-block software :p

Also, as far as I can tell Catleaps are not the best of these Korean monitors unless you get an OC'able one. However, if you like the looks of them then by all means haha.
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Thanks - So what's the consensus on "best" or just buy cheapest?
 
Bigdady92 said:
HMMMM

Is that just a standard power plug that fits into the back of the power brick? No problem with people using a standard PC power cord? I have a BAJILLION here at work so that's not a big deal if that's the case.
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There are 2 things, the rating for the voltage input (110-240V is a universal-ish type DC Adapter), and the style of the prong/plug.

The style can be fixed via cheap adapter, or using a power supply cable etc.

The adapter however has to be able to take 120V input for North America, the standard one that would generally be shipped with these takes 220-240v input.
 
Digital Viper-X- said:
There are 2 things, the rating for the voltage input (110-240V is a universal-ish type DC Adapter), and the style of the prong/plug.

The style can be fixed via cheap adapter, or using a power supply cable etc.

The adapter however has to be able to take 120V input for North America, the standard one that would generally be shipped with these takes 220-240v input.
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Maybe I'm mixing the 2 power issues.

1. I know from the brick to the monitor is 220V power, that's fine.
2. The adapter from the brick to the wall socket uses the korean power socket which will not work in America.


Have people been able to take a standard PC/PSU power cord and plug this into the power brick and into the wall to support their monitor? I've seen posts saying Yes and others who had to go out and get a brand new power brick all together.

All I want to do is take any of the hundreds of standard PC power cords, plug that into the power brick, plug the brick into the monitor, and be set. I do not want to buy a whole new power supply for this blasted monitor :/
 
Bigdady92 said:
Maybe I'm mixing the 2 power issues.

1. I know from the brick to the monitor is 220V power, that's fine.
2. The adapter from the brick to the wall socket uses the korean power socket which will not work in America.


Have people been able to take a standard PC/PSU power cord and plug this into the power brick and into the wall to support their monitor? I've seen posts saying Yes and others who had to go out and get a brand new power brick all together.

All I want to do is take any of the hundreds of standard PC power cords, plug that into the power brick, plug the brick into the monitor, and be set. I do not want to buy a whole new power supply for this blasted monitor :/
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You can use your standard PC cord.

However, you CAN'T use the 220V adapter(Without a Transformer)
 
Digital Viper-X- said:
You can use your standard PC cord.

However, you CAN'T use the 220V adapter(Without a Transformer)
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Almost all the 220v bricks (those labeled as 220v) have been shown to take 120v (via a standard US PC power cord) and output correct voltage / amperage without issue. Some won't, but the greater bulk will. It's very likely the internals are perfectly capable of the conversion, the label just doesn't reflect this.
 
silent-circuit said:
Almost all the 220v bricks (those labeled as 220v) have been shown to take 120v (via a standard US PC power cord) and output correct voltage / amperage without issue. Some won't, but the greater bulk will. It's very likely the internals are perfectly capable of the conversion, the label just doesn't reflect this.
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I've read on here and other forums that the power cord works with a typical PC cable, but it's better to ask and be safe and sorry.
 
Bigdady92 said:
I've read on here and other forums that the power cord works with a typical PC cable, but it's better to ask and be safe and sorry.
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I'm not sure where the confusion is, the power cord is nothing but copper from the wall to the adapter, the only difference between the one that comes with the monitor, and one you need is the prong that fits into the wall. a standard PC power cable will work here.

The more important / expensive part is the actual adapter that converts the AC voltage to DC voltage. You can't bypass that and you need it to power the monitor. but Silent-C said most will work :)
 
Can somebody comment on this screen's level of reflectiveness? Whenever I buy a laptop I always make sure to get a matte or semi-matte display... I hate the glossy stuff.

I've skimmed through this thread so I know that this monitor has no AG coating, but exactly how reflective is it? Is it as bad as those ultra-glossy screens on consumer laptops?
 
Faruk said:
Can somebody comment on this screen's level of reflectiveness? Whenever I buy a laptop I always make sure to get a matte or semi-matte display... I hate the glossy stuff.

I've skimmed through this thread so I know that this monitor has no AG coating, but exactly how reflective is it? Is it as bad as those ultra-glossy screens on consumer laptops?
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What I heard, its pure gloss. Zero AG coating. Its as much glare as the glass ACD.
 
My PCBANK has the tempered glass and it is reflective. You might want to get the monitors without glass.
 
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