Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

Ah, do you normally use 220V sockets or does your country use 110V? I was hoping 110V to see which brand of 110V power bricks AW ships out.
 
idrawthings said:
Thanks! It looks like I have the Frontek 220v PSU. I have it strapped behind my desk so I can't read the label in its entirety.

Hopefully I don't run into any issues down the line.
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If you're in the US or another country that uses 120v, order a replacement now or be prepared to be without a monitor at some point for about a week while you wait for the replacement from Ebay. That or get a step-up transformer rated for at least 100w.

Blak0ut said:
What sellers should I look to buy from?
Or does it not matter?
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Doesn't really matter. bigclothcraft seems to be faster shipping out than dcsamsungmall at this point. Not sure about redcap. There are a number of others.
 
FYI, TA_planet offers Welltronics 110V power bricks for US customers (and those who use 110V) with some Achieva ShiMians (have to request them for a separate fee on listings that come with 220V). I wasn't sure what brand it was, so I asked. Some sort of an updated Welltronics power brick model. Can't find any info on how good it is vs. other available 110V bricks.
 
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Do any of these monitors support HDCP?

Could owners of any of the monitors in this thread check to see if HDCP is supported or not?

Example of if you have a nvidia card:

hdcp%20supported.png
 
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silent-circuit said:
If you're in the US or another country that uses 120v, order a replacement now or be prepared to be without a monitor at some point for about a week while you wait for the replacement from Ebay. That or get a step-up transformer rated for at least 100w.



Doesn't really matter. bigclothcraft seems to be faster shipping out than dcsamsungmall at this point. Not sure about redcap. There are a number of others.
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Can I use my Xbox 360 powerbrick for these monitors?
 
Make sure you get a power brick with the correct polarity on the pins. Some sold are the reverse of the PSU these come with, so you can't just find any 24v 5A 4 pin tip PSU.
 
pwrusr said:
Do any of these monitors support HDCP?

Could owners of any of the monitors in this thread check to see if HDCP is supported or not?

Example of if you have a nvidia card:
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How do I check that on an ATI card ? My googling powers have failed me ...

I even ended up installing BD & 3D Assistant from Arcsoft that was supposed to check my monitor or something like that but it didn't :(


edit : I was sure I posted my experience here as well but I notice now that I didn't. Here's a copy/paste from OCN

Bought a Shimian from dream-seller, took him 48 hours to say something after I ordered it but when he did it was with the tracking info. Bought the cheapest version at 297$ + 15$ shipping (4 days to Romania) + 15$ taxes (declared as a 100$ gift), The monitor had a printed paper about how he opened and checked my monitor before shipping. It's absolutely flawless, no dead/stuck pixels or backlight bleeding. 4 days later I discovered that the top bezel does indeed cover a few pixels at the top, but I only noticed it when I specifically looked for it.

This is by far the best purchase I have made in years and I think I have spent hours already just staring at my wallpaper.
 
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^ Lucky. I can't stand the fact the bezel dips down, and went for a crossover.

Unfortunately, I've discovered a flickering problem (most noticeable on a mostly white screen, seems to happen more with the brightness down). I did some research into LED flickering and I don't think it's me having a sensitivity to it, as a few other people confirmed it.

I have no idea if it's an issue with the current crossover board, or what. Anyone with any info (like resultings from testing across the brands) would be appreciated.
 
silent-circuit said:
Make sure you get a power brick with the correct polarity on the pins. Some sold are the reverse of the PSU these come with, so you can't just find any 24v 5A 4 pin tip PSU.
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I have a Catleap and the power brick I got really sets off an interference thru my Logitech speakers, it's a loud humming sound. If I move the chord on the bricks outlet side the hum stops. I did take the back off the brick and noticed that the wires on the output chord are running very close to some capacitors there so maybe this is the cause of the hum.
Our power here is 220-240v.
 
Guy's what is the general consensus on dust and the QH270. Do people often get dust under the screen, is it a big problem, etc?

OK I did some more reading and found out that the tempered glass is only for cosmetic purposes. So the QH270-Lite is better if you don't care about the looks, plus it can't have dust in between the extra tempered glass and it won't have extra glare. Man, that really is a tremendous deal for a 2560 monitor.
 
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Well, basically with tempered glass fronts there will be a lot of tiny dust particles that you will not see. They are tiny and don't really have a color associated with them. Occasionally though there might be larger pieces that will have enough size to cast a shadow and appear black against light backgrounds. I have an IPSB, and I can't see any of the dust until I lean in and look for it very closely on a white background, but there is one piece that's noticeable. It's not a deal breaker by any means, and I'm content as my monitor has no other problems whatsoever. But if it's something that's going to bother you, maybe you should get a monitor without glass.

Also, my apartment is naturally very dusty. No matter how often I wipe the monitor, it's going to end up with some specs on it pretty quickly. Sometimes I think it's dust under the glass, but it's actually over it. If your current dusty screen doesn't bother you, then IPSB/IPSI probably won't either, if you can avoid those rare large pieces and hopefully get a seller to screen for that.
 
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you can get this monitor for about $300 plus free expedited shipping! what a freaking steal
 
-Mediocre Contrast/blacks (700:1 only at the max brightness...30" IPS pretty much always have mediocre contrast)
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The problem of the Shimian QH300 is that there is no possibility to reduce the backlight brightness. Brightness and contrast regulators are "classical". They only affect black and white level although the contrast regulator isn't implemented well and has a great effect on the black level (=> lowering leads to clipping in the shadows) too. The RGB gain controls can be used as workaround to lower the light density. The brightness of black will of course remain the same at any rate.

Best regards

Denis
 
YAY
my aging Westy 37" has the nasty smudge, now bad enough.. I can't stand it. Wanted to go for a U3011.. but the 3" difference between that... and one of these 27" s... well... cant justify spending $600-700 more for that 3"... wish it grew on trees.. but it dont!
just ordered Crossover

http:///KGAtGF

Ordered today... 6/24/12 will post status and impressions.
 
Most of the dells have scalers which introduce more input lag (hp zr30w notably doesn't have a scaler though), and all of the 30" have over-aggressive AG coating.

I figured what I am posting below out a long time ago. I think its accurate. I thought I would post it here since you might not realize it in relation to your "lost" 3 inch statement on 2560x screens.

while the 30" has +80px top and +80 px bottom vs the 27" -- the 30" does not have any more pixels across the width than the 27" , its pixels are just that much larger.

The 80px top and bottom size 'gap' would be much smaller size-wise at the same pixel sizes --> .75 inches top and .75 inches bottom (3/4inch top and bottom) 1.49" total to be exact if both were 108.8ppi.

Another way to look at it on more equal terms is that if you moved the 30" panel back enough until its width (and ppi) looked equal to the 27" to your viewing perspective, there would be .75" peeking out top and bottom (about the diameter of a dime coin) in relation to the 27" screen, 80px tall each.


A 27" 2560x1440 panel sized up to 30" 2560x1600 sized ppi would be 29.19" diagonal.
..
A 30" 2560x1600 panel sized down to 27" 2560x1440 sized ppi would be 27.75" diagonal.
..
27" 1440p = 108.8 ppi 0.2335 mm
30" 1600p = 100.6 ppi 0.2524 mm
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ppi is relative to viewing distance
.
I had a westy 37" a long time ago and personally anything much over 27" - 30" is way too big at a desk since the scene, HUDs, notifications, pointers, etc all get pushed out of your focal gaze and way into the periphery at desk distances resulting in eye-bending to the periphery. The only setup that gets around this, albeit in a primitive way and highly dependent on games supporting it - is landscape (LLL) eyefinity. In games that fully support LLL eyefinity the central monitor maintains the main scene elements including the HUDs, notifications, pointers, chat, etc. The side monitors are peripheral by design, sort-of like "blinders" blocking out your physical room and filling it with game world to trick your brain into feeling more immersed.
.
I have a 27" ACD (2560x1440, 10ms+) and a 27" samsung 120hz (1080p, 2ms + aggressive RTC). They each fill a lot of my perspective singly at a few feet away.
 
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Anyone here using any of these with a mini displayport mac, like an iMac, Macbook etc ?

I'm wondering if the only way to go from mini displayport to dvi-d dual link is to use Apples $99 adaptor ? Or whether a cable like this one would work ?

As far as I can tell that the only cable that says it is dual link - the rest just say dvi-d.
If the Apple adaptor is the only way, the extra cost of a "multi" input version of one of these monitors (like the CATLEAP Q270 MULTI for example) might just be worth it.

On the other hand - if cables like the one above from eBay work - the "by-pass" models would be fine.

Anyone ?
 
Anyone that has the Crossover with an OSD, can say how useful is it? Can I change things like: R,G,B, Image 1:1, Full Screen, Overdrive, or other useful settings like Sharpness, or anything else?
 
If someone happens to have gotten any of these 27" monitors (Shimian, Catleap, etc.) with built-in speaker, how is the sound quality? I'm looking for 'business-class' sound for office use, so it's more about space-saving than sounding great. I've been fine with built-in speakers from HP and Acer monitors, but the speakers were so horrible on LG 23" eIPS monitors that even I couldn't use them.
 
silent-circuit said:
The speakers have repeatedly been reported to be pretty horrible, in line with bad laptop speakers.
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Thanks! My impression was if they were somehow able to throw in speakers into a casing that didn't look designed with speakers in mind, it's gotta sound pretty bad.
 
silent-circuit said:
Most of the untested ones are fine, and most of the "pixel perfect" ones don't include stuck, only dead pixels.... so probably not worth the extra cost unless you're extra paranoid.
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I'm definitely semi-paranoid about buying displays, but... if it only covers stuck pixels, then I don't think I would. A flaw is a flaw, and if it's $310, I don't think I'll care all that much.
 
It is amazing I still see the "multi-input overclock" monitors selling a lot on Ebay. I am 100% sure those people don't realize those aren't true overclock monitors as they are falsely advertised and they frame skip. You are essentially getting a $300 60 Hz Catleap with more input lag for $530. :eek:

You've been warned. ;)
 
So what are the odds of getting a screen with a oc'able board. And I'm not talking about the overclock.net edition. I mean just the regular $300 screen from eBay. I could see this screens being the best deal ever if you could get them to 100hz but no so much if they are stuck at 60hz...
 
Gatecrasher3 said:
So what are the odds of getting a screen with a oc'able board. And I'm not talking over the overclock.net edition. I mean just the regular $300 screen from eBay. I could see this screens being the best deal ever if you could get them to 100hz but no so much if they are stuck at 60hz...
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Zero. Those boards haven't been in production for months now.
 
CRT vs Glossy Comparison

Over-Exposed
AcervsCRTmovie001.jpg


Under-Exposed
AcervsCRTmovie019.jpg


Older Plasmas and many modern cheaper plasmas use similar coating/filters= grey blacks in a bright room
kurowashout.jpg


The TN on the left (Acer G245Hbmid) is set to 120cdm/2 brightness and has a contrast ratio of 930:1, my CRT is set to it's max brightness @110cdm/2 and the contras is 1300:1.

This is my dad's old CRT which he bought in 2000 for 500$ new, I believe it was a "cheap," model then. I don't know how its coating compares to higher end CRT's.
 
Thank You for the pictures, is it possible to make an overexposed picture but with both monitors reflecting the same side of the room?
 
AIUI most if not all of them are considered decent, but there are three or four eBay vendors who are generally considered the most reputable: bigclothcraft, red-cap, dcsamsungmall and dreamseller. I'd have to go back through the thread to be sure, but I think it's bigclothcraft that supposedly has the best overall purchase-to delivery times as of late (2-4 days).
 
Redshirt #24 said:
AIUI most if not all of them are considered decent, but there are three or four eBay vendors who are generally considered the most reputable: bigclothcraft, red-cap, dcsamsungmall and dreamseller. I'd have to go back through the thread to be sure, but I think it's bigclothcraft that supposedly has the best overall purchase-to delivery times as of late (2-4 days).
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Your forgot Accessorieswhole. They're one of the ones that have a fedex account and will pay for shipping back to korea, which is especially important if you're going for a perfect pixel monitor.
 
elvn said:
Most of the dells have scalers which introduce more input lag (hp zr30w notably doesn't have a scaler though), and all of the 30" have over-aggressive AG coating.

I figured what I am posting below out a long time ago. I think its accurate. I thought I would post it here since you might not realize it in relation to your "lost" 3 inch statement on 2560x screens.


ppi is relative to viewing distance
.
I had a westy 37" a long time ago and personally anything much over 27" - 30" is way too big at a desk since the scene, HUDs, notifications, pointers, etc all get pushed out of your focal gaze and way into the periphery at desk distances resulting in eye-bending to the periphery. The only setup that gets around this, albeit in a primitive way and highly dependent on games supporting it - is landscape (LLL) eyefinity. In games that fully support LLL eyefinity the central monitor maintains the main scene elements including the HUDs, notifications, pointers, chat, etc. The side monitors are peripheral by design, sort-of like "blinders" blocking out your physical room and filling it with game world to trick your brain into feeling more immersed.
.
I have a 27" ACD (2560x1440, 10ms+) and a 27" samsung 120hz (1080p, 2ms + aggressive RTC). They each fill a lot of my perspective singly at a few feet away.
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Good Info.. thank you. Yes, sitting about 36" from the screen.. the Westy 37" for gaming.. was actually too big...although it took a while to figure that out.. but in Wow etc.. a challenge to assimilate all info.

so.. going to this 27" .. Im looking forward to being able to take in more
 
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