42" OLED MASTER THREAD

Lateralus said:
Aside from using the physical button to turn your C2 on/off (which I realize largely defeats the purpose of a remote!) yeah, you could just plug the C2 (and any related equipment) into a surge protector that's either on the desk or the floor so that you could easily reach the main power button on the strip.

Of course, this being [H], the preferred alternative would be to reprogram your remote (or C2's firmware) so that they operated independently of the CX. :p I'm only halfway kidding about that.
Click to expand...

You could try messing with the control software:

equinox654 said:


This app has been posted in this thread previously, but from what I can tell it has been over a year and I didn't see a great bit of detail on its features.
It totally flew under my radar.

I stumbled upon this after updating to Windows 11 yesterday while looking for guides to setup HDR properly..

Color Control:
https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl
View attachment 512344

It lets you setup all kinds of macros with different toggles. Looks like it is designed to change screen modes and toggle HDR depending on what is application/game is running. I really don't want to bother going through the trouble to set all of that up, but it has a killer feature I have been wanting.

Built in macros to raise and lower oled light. Unfortunately it can't just tell the tv to go to a specific value, but sends controller commands through the network.
So, say you run the macro to raise oled light +20. It will send the controller presses to go through the menu and raise the oled light value by 20.
Also you could edit the macro trivially to say +-70 to go between 30/100.

Still a hell of a lot easier than doing it your self. It wears me out. While working I keep the value low and raise it for games, so always back and forth.
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elvn said:
Nice! Thanks.

Can you set any menu item up to a "hotkey" on the controller? I've always wanted to set one of the buttons to do the "turn off the screen" (emitters function). I have that menu item at the bottom of my popup quickmenu at the moment but it takes a click + navigating to that heading. Alternately, with voice control active I can hold the mic button down and say "turn off the screen", but having a one button press would be more convenient and would work more like a mute button. I do see a "screen off" heading in your screen shot but I don't know if that is like hitting the power button of the screen and shutting it down into standby rather than the "turn off the screen" emitters trick.

I'll head over to the link and see if there is a writeup about it. Thanks again.

Not sure if that means the shortcuts can be activated on your pc itself? If that were the case I could link hotkeys to a stream deck which would be extremely convenient.

Looks like that might be the case like the controller software...

https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl/releases/tag/v4.0.0.0

View attachment 512450

or in your remote controller screenshot they have an entry as "Alt + F5" for example.



I knew I could do some things via the phone software but I've been wanting to do the turn off the screen trick as well as some other tv functions via my stream deck (mapping hotkeys to it) ever since I got the 48cx.

great find. If it was posted before I guess I snoozed on it too so thanks all the same. Maybe I even posted it or replied to it and forgot about it the way things go lol. I vaguley remember some color control software but not the shortcut functions to the remote/tv itself.
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It seems like you could identify each tv separately by name and IP using the app:

Do6oFMy.jpeg



 
I am about to buy the 48" LG c2, last call if is there anyone who wants to tell me there is any problems w/ it. Eye strain, burn in, etc.
 
Happy Hopping said:
I am about to buy the 48" LG c2, last call if is there anyone who wants to tell me there is any problems w/ it. Eye strain, burn in, etc.
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I have the 48in C2 and use it as my pc monitor. Thing is great. no issues with text. Clear af and the best panel I have ever had for gaming. Run the clear type tuner in win 11 DO NOT download mactype font app. It makes the font look like total shit. If you install win 11 on it and run clear type tuner, it will look fine. I have 0 issues with dpi and the thing just rocks. I sit about 30 to 35 inches from the screen and use it all day long. One of the best purchases I have made in a long time.
 
Happy Hopping said:
I am about to buy the 48" LG c2, last call if is there anyone who wants to tell me there is any problems w/ it. Eye strain, burn in, etc.
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Font is fine once you enable some form of ClearType text; even the one built in Windows is sufficient.

18 months use and counting of *very* heavy use (including a lot of games with static UI elements) and no visible sign of burn in; obvious improvement over my old B6P which burnt the taskbar after a year.

My only complaint is VRR; it *works* but unless you keep a very stable framerate you do get shifts in brightness. I eventually just turned it off as the constant brightness changes were more annoying then the problems inherent with Vsync.
 
jarablue said:
I have the 48in C2 and use it as my pc monitor. Thing is great. no issues with text. Clear af and the best panel I have ever had for gaming. Run the clear type tuner in win 11 DO NOT download mactype font app. It makes the font look like total shit. If you install win 11 on it and run clear type tuner, it will look fine. I have 0 issues with dpi and the thing just rocks. I sit about 30 to 35 inches from the screen and use it all day long. One of the best purchases I have made in a long time.
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I just want to be sure: no burn issue on your end?
 
Yellow color has some fringing even in non-text objects. You can draw a vertical line in MS paint and it’ll appear right away. Still much better than QD OLED but not perfect.
 
You wont see burn in until you use up the burn in buffer.
ie you just wont see any burn in until then, even if the buffer is almost used up. But once it is used up ...
 
Nenu said:
You wont see burn in until you use up the burn in buffer.
ie you just wont see any burn in until then, even if the buffer is almost used up. But once it is used up ...
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And that will be years away. Many many years, in my case. Obviously this will depend on usage habits (I use mine for 12+ hours a day, though at reduced brightness for eye comfort NOT burn-in mitigation, although I'm sure it has some benefit there).

Please, for all our sakes, don't bring more doubt into Happy Hopping's life LOL...he/she has been watching this thread for years, repeatedly asking about burn-in and other potential pitfalls when they could have been reaping the benefits the entire time.

Burn-in on OLEDs is largely a thing of the past unless you intentionally abuse your display. Like gamerk2 above I've played lots of games with static UI elements *in addition to using it for work every day for 2+ years now* and image quality is as good as ever. Certainly better than any LCD I've used. People keep forgetting that LG has continued to improve the panels year after year so that they are far more robust than early OLEDs...which somehow years later continue to carry the burn-in stigma.
 
Lateralus said:
Please, for all our sakes, don't bring more doubt into Happy Hopping's life LOL...he/she has been watching this thread for years, repeatedly asking about burn-in and other potential pitfalls when they could have been reaping the benefits the entire time.
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Hehe, couldnt help myself. [whistles]
 
Nenu said:
You wont see burn in until you use up the burn in buffer.
ie you just wont see any burn in until then, even if the buffer is almost used up. But once it is used up ...
Click to expand...
what is the life span of this burn in buffer? what is it measure by? years or hr. of usage? is there a link to it?
 
Happy Hopping said:
what is the life span of this burn in buffer? what is it measure by? years or hr. of usage? is there a link to it?
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There is no such info available afaik. What they mean is that OLEDs don't run at their max capabilities so that the automatic wear leveling processes can increase voltages to the panel to maintain its advertised performance across the lifetime of the display.

Next month I will be at 3 years of use with my LG CX 48". Two years of 8+ hours of work + personal use, one year of use as a TV for media and gaming. There is still zero signs of burn-in on it. Has it lost brightness during that time? I have no idea! To me it still looks great.

The cheapest I have seen the LG C2 42" in my country was 890 euros. If that gets you 3 years of use, that's ~297 € per year. Were it to fail at that mark or have burn in, there would be something better on the market to replace it. I mean even now you could for example consider the 43" Samsung Neo G7 or its TV counterpart, the QN90C for mini-LED option with a different set of drawbacks.
 
Happy Hopping said:
what is the life span of this burn in buffer? what is it measure by? years or hr. of usage? is there a link to it?
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Depends on the mfr but its reported modern LGs have a 25% power buffer, not that it helps much.
Theres no way to find out more other than from peoples actual experience.
 
Happy Hopping said:


what about this new Sony? who makes that screen? Is it Sony themselves?
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I swore off ever buying Sony when they falsely advertised their XBR-65X810C (65" 4K TV) as having HDR. They later removed any mention of HDR from that model's web page many months later. You COULD get HDR to work if you played an HDR clip/movie from the USB port - over HDMI? Nope.

I had registered the TV with them, and I never got an apology / our bad from them. I had opened a couple of support tickets trying to resolve the issue prior to them removing all mentions of HDR. Dirty, shady, unethical - I won't be rewarding Sony with any money in the future, and to this day I still let people know why.
 
For someone that likes to sit close to their monitor would you guys recommend the 42 or 48?
 
Agenesis said:
For someone that likes to sit close to their monitor would you guys recommend the 42 or 48?
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Well you could sit closer to the 42” than the 48”. Even the 42” would end up further back than whichever smaller monitor you have now.
 
People who say they can see the ppi are either 1. full of total shit or 2. have superman eyesight. I sit roughtly 24 to 30 inches from my 48in C2 and cannot..I repeat cannot see any pixels at all on the screen. All I see is Windows 11 and buttery crispness.

Don't listen to people who say shit like that. They have to be picking it apart with a magnyfying glass. Like I said I sit pretty close to my 48in and I have 20/13 eyesight and see 0 pixels. Sooooo....something ain't jivin. And a whole slew of other people who use 42in and 48in do not see "pixels" at all.
 
Can you tell the difference between the same sized 1440p desktop screen and a 4k one's pixel sizes/clarity/smoothness of the pixel grid at the same desktop viewing distance? At different distances, sitting far away from the 1440p one they will appear the same, or sitting close to the 4k one. 1400p to 1500p like pixel sizes in effect when sitting closer are usable but they won't look like the fine 4k pixel grid you'd normally associate with a 4k screen. It will also result in a bad viewing angle. A lot of people are forced to shoe horn larger 4k gaming tvs onto a desk because there are no good 32 inch to 36 inch gaming oleds available that would be more optimal for seating on a desk. Then many complain of more non uniformity on the far flung sides or of more aggravated text fringing of the non-standard pixel structure, in some cases even resorting to dropping their desktop real estate down from 1:1 4k as well by scaling their text sizes up to compensate.

At 30" view distance on a 42" 4k you'd get around 60 PPD (and a 64 deg viewing angle) which is usually considered as the baseline for aggressive 3d graphics AA and 2d text-ss to compensate fully, but on oleds the non-standard sub pixel structure benefits from higher PPD than that. The 2d desktop's graphics and imagery gets no text-ss or 3d graphics-AA masking methods though so also benefits from much higher.

At 24" view distance on a 42" 4k you'd get around 51 PPD (and an overly wide 75 deg viewing angle).
51 PPD of percieved pixel size is more like what a 27" 1440p looks like at 25 inch view distance, or a 32" 1440p looks like at 30 inch view distance.
So you'd be looking at a larger wall of "1440p-sized" pixel sizes rather than the finer pixel structure you'd normally expect to get from a 4k screen.


....


At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 4k screen of any size gets around 64 to 77 PPD.

At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 2560x1440 screen of any size gets only 43 PPD to 51 PPD.

At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 1920x1080 screen of any size gets only 20 PPD to 25 PPD

.

.

. . . . . . . . . . .

This graphic shows the optimal viewing distances of both a 42" 4k and a 48" 4k, plus a lower 50-ish PPD one at 24" to show how a lot of people are viewing one on a desk sub-optimally at ~ 1500p like PPD.

tJWvzHy.png


.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-

Human central viewing angle is 50 to 60 degrees
xe7QB1M.png


optimal viewing angle minimizes the off axis and non-uniform edges
XvKRu9t.png


Sitting too close pushes the sides of the screen outside of your viewpoint and makes the off-axis areas larger:

RUdpoK8.png


. . . . . . . .

The measure that takes the ppi and distance into consideration is PPD, pixels per degree. The PPD number is how many pixels per degree of your view but it also represents the perceived pixel size to your eyes and brain by nature of that so you could think of it as the perceived pixel density (though the D really stands for 'per Degree).

https://qasimk.io/screen-ppd/

.


. .

You have to go by the screen surface to your eyeballs though, not the desk dimensions if you want to be precise. There can be some variance there too depending on what you are doing - if you are over your desk with your peripherals on top of it or if you are more casually laid back using a game controller in your chair for example.


Pixel sizes are more or less compensated for at 60PPD but only because text sub sampling and aggressive AA in games are applied to mask how large the pixel structure actually is. Unfortunately LG OLED uses WRGB and samsung uses Pentile which are both non-standard subpixel layouts which text-ss is not designed for.

The 2D desktop's graphics and imagery typically have no pixel size/edge-masking compensations at all either. So even higher than 60 PPD is better. The smaller the perceived pixel sizes, the less noticeable artifacts and fringing issues are. In text and even occasional edge artifacts from things like DLSS and frame insertion/amplification technologies. Larger perceived pixel sizes, larger problems.

. . .

If you have the room space there is a simple fix that will allow you to get optimal viewing of 4k gaming tvs. Decouple the screen from the desk and drop the desk back away from the screen some:

sHneoux.png


OUfRL49.png
 
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Also for comparison, from the 8k threads:



https://qasimk.io/screen-ppd/

At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 8k screen of any size gets around 127 to 154 PPD.
.
At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 4k screen of any size gets around 64 to 77 PPD.
.
At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 2560x1440 screen of any size gets only 43 PPD to 51 PPD.
.
At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 1920x1080 screen of any size gets only 20 PPD to 25 PPD

. . . .


So 16k would be 254 to 308 ppd which probably wouldn't need much if any text-ss and graphics-aa methods of masking how big the pixel structure really is. And the 2d desktop's graphics and images would finally be fine enough for little to no pixelization since they typically don't get any masking of their pixel structure like text and 3d game graphics do. 8k would be a welcome improvement though.

Say you are viewing a samsung s20+ phone from 12 inches away to watch a video up fairly close without it being right at your face. That phone is 3200x1440. For the sake of argument let's say it's 6.7inch display. That would be a 30 degree viewing angle (spanning half of your central viewing angle in the middle of your FoV) and would result in around 112 PPD. Holding it any closer would be lower PPD.

Iphone 12 pro max is 2778 × 1284 at 6.1 inch so would get a similar 98 PPD or so at 12 inch view distance. Regular 12 pro would get around 90 PPD. Iphone pro max 14 is 2796x1290 at 6.1 inches so it still around 108 ppd at 12 inch view distance.
 
You can't see any pixels on a 48 inch C2 that was a nice long post but the fact still remains. You cannot see any pixels at all on a 48 in C2 sorry.
 
jarablue said:
You can't see any pixels on a 48 inch C2 that was a nice long post but the fact still remains. You cannot see any pixels at all on a 48 in C2 sorry.
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It's a function of viewing distance. Highly contrasted pixels side by side will have stepping/fringing just like a 1400 screen if you are sitting close. Any screen will have larger perceived pixel sizes the closer you sit, and highly contrasted edges are where it stands out. Sitting close you are getting what is essentially in effect a larger field of a 1440p desktop sized screen's pixels instead of the finer look of a 4k screen's PPD you'd get at optimal viewing angles.


A 48" 4k at 24" view distance is only 47 PPD.

At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 2560x1440 screen of any size gets only 43 PPD to 51 PPD.

At the human central viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 4k screen of any size gets around 64 to 77 PPD.

. . .

I'm not saying it's unusable to use one like that, people used 1440p screens for years (but it also pushes the sides of the screen outside of your view more). It's definitely a downgrade though compared to the fidelity a 4k gets at optimal viewing angles/viewing distances.
 
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For what it's worth, I am 26" from my 42". I certainly wouldn't go any further back. If anything, a couple inches closer may be fine.
 
jarablue said:
People who say they can see the ppi are either 1. full of total shit or 2. have superman eyesight. I sit roughtly 24 to 30 inches from my 48in C2 and cannot..I repeat cannot see any pixels at all on the screen. All I see is Windows 11 and buttery crispness.

Don't listen to people who say shit like that. They have to be picking it apart with a magnyfying glass. Like I said I sit pretty close to my 48in and I have 20/13 eyesight and see 0 pixels. Sooooo....something ain't jivin. And a whole slew of other people who use 42in and 48in do not see "pixels" at all.
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Better get some glasses, actually don't. Otherwise you'd want something better.
 


this is slightly off topic, I just want to understand his video card setup. He daisychain 3 x UHD, and today's video card, the max. resolution it can support is 8K. So how does he drive the 3rd monitor? I never use SLI, I don't think SLI allows you to double the resolution, does it? I thought SLI only increase the speed of your video card. So even if he uses SLI w/ 2 video card, he only get 8K, but he needs 12K to run 3 monitor
 
Happy Hopping said:


this is slightly off topic, I just want to understand his video card setup. He daisychain 3 x UHD, and today's video card, the max. resolution it can support is 8K. So how does he drive the 3rd monitor? I never use SLI, I don't think SLI allows you to double the resolution, does it? I thought SLI only increase the speed of your video card. So even if he uses SLI w/ 2 video card, he only get 8K, but he needs 12K to run 3 monitor
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8k = 4x 4k resolution.
 
Happy Hopping said:
but he has 3 monitor. The resolution is 3840x2160 x 3, that makes 12K. He only has a Thermaltake open frame case w/ 1 video card, how does he get 12k?

https://www.samsung.com/us/computin...mini-led-curved-gaming-screen-ls55bg970nnxgo/
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It's important to remember that the terms "4k," "8k" etc. is shorthand that represents the horizontal resolution, not the total number of pixels (which is what matters when driving a display).
4k is the industry shorthand for a resolution of 3840 x 2160, which is about 8.3 million pixels.
8k is exactly double the 4k resolution at 7680 x 4320, which is about 33.2 million pixels. You'll note this is exactly four times the number of pixels 4k has.

The setup in the video is three rotated 4k displays, which would add up to a horizontal resolution of (2160*3) = 6480. So the resolution would be 6480 x 3840, which comes out to about 24.9 million pixels. So it's actually 25% fewer pixels than 8k.
You might call this resolution "6.5k" or something like that, although it's not quite the standard 16:9 ratio.

A 12k resolution would be (3*3840) x (3*2160), or a resolution of 11520 x 6480, which is around 74.6 million pixels.


Edit: here's a visual aid:

4k 8k 3x4k comparison.png


You can think of each resolution in terms of how many 4k screens it is. So 8k is four 4k screens, 12k is nine, and so on. This makes it obvious that three 4k screens is lower resolution than one 8k screen.
 
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Happy Hopping said:


this is slightly off topic, I just want to understand his video card setup. He daisychain 3 x UHD, and today's video card, the max. resolution it can support is 8K. So how does he drive the 3rd monitor? I never use SLI, I don't think SLI allows you to double the resolution, does it? I thought SLI only increase the speed of your video card. So even if he uses SLI w/ 2 video card, he only get 8K, but he needs 12K to run 3 monitor
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. . .

GoldenTiger said:
8k = 4x 4k resolution.
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Yep. 8k is quad 4k, 4 pixels per block compared to 4k, or four quadrants of 4k desktop resolution if you want to look at it that way.



You could run cards separately without sli to have more displays. They don't have to be the same gpu if not gaming on the other monitors so could be cheaper than your gaming gpu. Can also get usb-c to hdmi adapters, or some motherboards have an integrated hdmi port, etc. Another option is running a laptop or other less high performance rig to drive an 8k for the desktop space and keeping a gaming mouse and gaming 1/2+ keyboard on the outsides of your desktop peripherals for gaming on a primary gaming rig + gaming monitor. That method avoids full screen gaming issues and other small compromises, hdr issues etc.

General use multi monitor card, or just grab a cheap/used gpu from the last gens that won't take too much space slots wise.
813hAsJ7EIL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


One of various usb-c/thunderbolt to hdmi 2.1 4k 120hz / 8k 60hz adapters. Some motherboards have a hdmi port you can enable also.
61hJ7MEZrjL._AC_SL1500_.jpg





Those arks missed the mark on a lot of things features/specs wise. I wouldn't want three of them in that orientation. And that is coming from someone who used a 43" 4k nu6900 screen on each side of my main landscape monitor for years . . "the two towers" , or rabbit ears if you prefer.

A singular 1000R curved 8k screen with real PbP (picture by picture) multi input sources framed in the osd would be a much better screen than those three. 4k doesn't give very good PPD at 55" until you are pretty far away either. Even at 40" view distance you'd only be getting around 62 PPD on one.

If anything, and money were no object, I'd put a 8k screen on top of one of the upcoming "doublewide 4k" ~ "half-8k" gaming screens. Would be better if there was a 8k 1000R tv that could perform as well as a 4k one picture quality wise. Currently 8k tvs can be considerably more expensive than 4k ones (though one is on sale atm) yet have worse picture quality and performance than better 4k tvs, even disregarding hz/gaming limitations. In that over under scenario I mentioned - for the 8k desktop/app screen I'd probably use a less expensive gpu or a prev gen hand me down if I had the motherboard space, or a usb-c to hdmi 2.1 8k60hz, and then use a next gen dp 2.1 gaming gpu for the ultrawide. I guess overall it would be 7680 x ( 4320 + 2160) so 7680 x 6480, minus the bezel. Not sure what direction I'll go in in the next few years but that is an option I'm keeping in mind.

Even a 65" 8k (which they seem to be limited to on the low end tv size wise for now) would still be around 109 PPD at 40 inch view distance which is pretty nice, though 70 deg viewing angle is a little wide at that distance. Ends up being +5 deg to +10 deg on either side of the screen outside of your central view but that's probably manageable/sufferable. To get 60 deg viewing angle you'd have to sit around 4' away ~ 49" (and you'd get 129 PPD). For reference, if there were an ark-like 55" 1000R 8k screen it would get around 124 PPD at the ~ 40" radius/focal point of a 1000R, 1000mm curve.

65" 8k at 40 inch., 1000mm view distance = 109 PPD
55" 8k at 40 inch, 1000mm view distance = 124 PPD

65" 8k at 60 deg viewing angle = ~129 PPD
55" 8k at 60 deg viewing angle = ~129 PPD

. . . . .

Borrowing from Necere 's graphic :

8k-on-top-of-2x-4k_A.png


Borrowed from reddit:

I wouldn't use a layout that sits so close as the one pictured below. I'd stand mount or pole mount the two screens and sit back farther, up to 40" to 48" depending on what I was doing. Maybe bit nearer depending on the game on the bottom one vs pushing the sides into my periphery. Desk on caster wheels would allow distance to vary, would allow lower screen mounting heights since the distance would allow better viewing angle vs the horizon of the desk. Over distance any slight tilt back of my chair w/ headrest would give a better angle vs the higher up screen too. Having a desk on caster wheels would also allow me to roll the desk up closer to the monitors to save some space when not in use.

lHyaMQw.jpg
 
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Has anyone noticed with the latest Nvidia drivers and the last couple firmware updates on the LG C2 the flicker issue has gone away?
 
I have gotten so used to using the 42 inch C2, I just wish it had a small curve to it, oh well.
 
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