27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 impressions

Glossy Qnix & Matte Qnix & Glossy X-Star ICC Profiles. Need to use ICC profiles when overclocking since the gamma rises.

Use Color Sustainer to force ICC profiles, especially since it switches profiles automatically when the hz is changed.

wow that's so much better than color profile keeper

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it's not allowing me to apply profiles to any of my qnix's modes but it works fine for my vg236
 
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Ive had my Glossy X-star for almost a year now and have zero problems. picked it up for $289 shipped on ebay from dream-seller. There is a tad back light bleed but you never see it unless the screen is pitch black. Also i have is OC'ed to 95Hz no problem. 120Hz was giving me some weird flickering issues.
 
wow that's so much better than color profile keeper

edit

it's not allowing me to apply profiles to any of my qnix's modes but it works fine for my vg236

what happens if you try? if i try to apply a profile the text turns red and when re selecting the screen i have to add the profile again; i have no driver for the qnix installed (there is no official one is there?)
just generic p&p


on another topic: i contacted dreamseller because of the banding my qnix has; he offered me a partial refund but i'd rather pay the full price and get the monitor as advertised without annoying flaws; did ppl. manage to convince him that he ships you a new one?
 
I posted this in the hotdeals thread, figured I would add it here....



I noticed there was signficant brightness uniformity issues when overclocked.. so I did an investigation. It only affects colors/greys, and it gets worse as the overclock is higher. There is a sweet spot between overclock and uniformity issues

I took a picture of a grey screen with a camera at 60Hz, 62Hz, 64Hz ... 126Hz, 128Hz, 130Hz. You can compare them here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ipxb5wq9dx40nfx/UvxYS0Rb1C
All pics were taken at the same locked exposure and fixed manual focus, but the camera is pretty old so no guarantee of perfect consistency.

Feel free to download and scroll through them

Another observation: Image retention occurs in the darker areas, not in the lighter areas.

Based on my results, I'll stick with 90-96Hz. I suspect other PLS overclock monitors will be similar.


Edit: this is my glossy x-star
 
So my glossy Qnix came in today and its a beast. No uneven backlight, no dead pixels and it overclocks perfectly to 130hz on my R9 290x.

I have had Catleap 2Bs, Overlord OCs and Shimians, but so far this is the best Korean I have owned!
 
Why buy and sell multiple variations of the same monitor? Once calibrated they will be very similar and the IPS panels gamma doesn't rise when oc'd...
 
Why buy and sell multiple variations of the same monitor? Once calibrated they will be very similar and the IPS panels gamma doesn't rise when oc'd...

I sold all of my old Koreans for double what I paid for them...bought them early before the boom and then sold when supply was limited and demand high in 2012-2013
 
I sold all of my old Koreans for double what I paid for them...bought them early before the boom and then sold when supply was limited and demand high in 2012-2013

Ah, any of them have really strong blue tints? My first Crossover 27Q LED-P had a 8700k color temperature and a 700:1 contrast ratio and some Yamakasi and Achieva users reported the same thing back in 2012.

Don't you regret selling them since they did not need ICC profiles to correct the gamma once oc'd? Lastly, can you check for PWM with your cell and this test?
 
Ah, any of them have really strong blue tints? My first Crossover 27Q LED-P had a 8700k color temperature and a 700:1 contrast ratio and some Yamakasi and Achieva users reported the same thing back in 2012.

Don't you regret selling them since they did not need ICC profiles to correct the gamma once oc'd? Lastly, can you check for PWM with your cell and this test?

Don't all of these Koreans have PWM? No none of my old ones had the strong blue tints, don't regret selling them either. I go through monitors like women go through shoes. Once I get bored, I start looking for my next fix. I jumped from the old Koreans on to the Lightboost bandwagon, and then to the 4k bandwagon and now I am towing the line waiting for the ROG Swift.
 
Don't all of these Koreans have PWM?

No, just some matte Qnix's and the glossy Monex M27QSM I tested, though it is possible that PWM free versions exist. The S-IPS & AH-IPS 1440p panels are PWM free/use super high frequencies which can only be measured with an oscilloscope (AH-IPS).

I go through monitors like women go through shoes.

This annoys me since I can't afford to.
 
No, just some matte Qnix's and the glossy Monex M27QSM I tested, though it is possible that PWM free versions exist. The S-IPS & AH-IPS 1440p panels are PWM free/use super high frequencies which can only be measured with an oscilloscope (AH-IPS).

This annoys me since I can't afford to.

Why? All sale proceeds go towards funding the next display setup :D

So I don't know how accurate that PWM test is, I only see one line moving but when I take the photo it shows multiple lines which would indicate PWM.....however, in the second photo I tested my UP2414Q which is known not to have PWM and it showed multiple lines in the photo too.

Here is the QNIX


And here is the Dell UP2414Q
 
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Why? All sale proceeds go towards funding the next display setup :D

I am jealous and often [H]er's (no name dropping; I am also guilty) who repeatedly switch displays pay more to downgrade. The 24" 4K Dell is a downgrade for gaming vs. a good overclock-able the 1440p monitor.

So I don't know how accurate that PWM test is

If you only see one blurred line when it is moving and can't see any flickering lines on a white screen with your cell like in this video, it is PWM Free.

Dell has sold a few of the same models with and without PWM. If you want to truly verify you will need a proper camera and use this testing methodology which requires some finesse.
 
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I am jealous and often [H]er's (no name dropping; I am also guilty) who repeatedly switch displays pay more to downgrade. The 24" 4K Dell is a downgrade for gaming vs. a good overclock-able the 1440p monitor.
Yes and no, the UP2414Q destroys the Qnix for flight sims like Rise of Flight because that INSANE 187PPI makes everything look so razor sharp from miles and miles away when your up in the air in flight. 60hz does not bother me in flight sims.

For fast moving FPS games like BF4, yes the 120hz+ Qnix is awesome....very awesome but its grey to grey and motion blur hold it back from being truly legendary. Although, I did play a few rounds of BF4 on the UP2414Q and it is jaw dropping, honestly 4K trounces 1440p like 1080p trounced 720p...... but you have to play a slower paced strategy due to the 60hz.
 
what happens if you try? if i try to apply a profile the text turns red and when re selecting the screen i have to add the profile again; i have no driver for the qnix installed (there is no official one is there?)
just generic p&p


on another topic: i contacted dreamseller because of the banding my qnix has; he offered me a partial refund but i'd rather pay the full price and get the monitor as advertised without annoying flaws; did ppl. manage to convince him that he ships you a new one?

i get red text and nothing happens
 
Anyone bought one of the new QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10 monitors yet? It seems they've switched panels (possibly BenQ?). They are claiming true 10bit color, multi-input, 120hz OC (75hz native), flicker free, and only 4ms. It also looks like they've gone to a grey bezel rather than the shiny black one.


What is the difference
 
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What is the difference with tru 10bit color? It says 4ms GtoG, HDCP and 2,000,000 to 1 Dynamic contrast. NCX, what do you think?

I can tell you one thing about those, they don't overclock, if you are looking to do that. They skip frames using a higher hz, just like every other multi input monitor.
 
...I hope not

I have an update on mine. The seller contacted Qnix to see what the issue was, and I got this response:



Thoughts? I said I'm not good with electronics and I'll likely break it more than fix it and asked if there were other options (I'm hoping for an exchange), but...is it easy to swap out the PCB board? Is this a normal procedure? I'm kind of at a loss here on what to do, especially if the cost to ship it back is going to be really expensive

Final update: I've been in contact with the seller over the last few weeks. They sent me a new PCB board and following their instructions I replaced it. Unfortunately that didn't fix the issue. They are willing to take it back but are strongly discouraging me doing so because of the time and cost, and instead are willing to give me $40 back. Since this issue only really shows up when overclocking...well, I guess I'll just have to deal with staying at 60Hz.
 
It seems they've switched panels (possibly BenQ?). They are claiming true 10bit color, multi-input, 120hz OC (75hz native), flicker free, and only 4ms. It also looks like they've gone to a grey bezel rather than the shiny black one.

They use AHVA panels which are AUO's version of IPS/PLS. They do not overclock, have high input lag (30ms), low contrast (600-700:1 from 2 reviews) and use LED PWM Dimming despite being advertised as flicker free. One needs an AMD Firepro or Nvidia Quaddro card to send+receive a 10 bit signal properly, true 10 bit content (consumer media is 8 bit) and to use one of the few programs (games don't) which support 10 bit signals.
 
I'm super temped to pick up another - I'd like to get one without no glow (matte)
What's my best route to getting a matte with no glow/no pwm?
DP2710LED or QX2710?
Seller? dream-seller; gn_wholesale; kcci-ushulustar; items_dealer; accessorieswhole; kgamenes
Anyone received one recently with no glow ? What seller/model?
 
There is no way to ensure one gets a glow free panel and there are way to many variables to account for. I bought mine last May and seem to be the only person to report getting a glow free QX2710 in over a year. You are looking for a needle in a hay stack, a needle which I might already own. This OCN thread is the best place to waste time looking.
 
There is no way to ensure one gets a glow free panel and there are way to many variables to account for. I bought mine last May and seem to be the only person to report getting a glow free QX2710 in over a year. You are looking for a needle in a hay stack, a needle which I might already own. This OCN thread is the best place to waste time looking.
searching now. justintoxicated told me his doesnt glow (received recently from dream-seller) but I'm not sure he knows exactly what to look for (pmed him again)
 
searching now. justintoxicated told me his doesnt glow (received recently from dream-seller) but I'm not sure he knows exactly what to look for (pmed him again)

I just searched and skimmed through 1400 of the post recent posts on the OCN thread.
My conclusions

  • Almost no one reports on glow
  • Most don't know the difference between glow and BLB
  • People don't know how to take pics of monitors to show glow or BLB
:(
 
It amazes me the expectatins that some have over a sub $300 display that absolutely ROCKS for gaming.
 
I just searched and skimmed through 1400 of the post recent posts on the OCN thread.
My conclusions

  • Almost no one reports on glow
  • Most don't know the difference between glow and BLB
  • People don't know how to take pics of monitors to show glow or BLB
:(

Most are very satisfied so that's probably a reason you don't have lots of pics to compare. My 3 do not have any glowing that I can see. My BLB is also minimal , once I adjusted the frame almost all of it was gone. Its a risk to buy so use a vendor inside your country so you can return it without a huge shipping cost.
 
This is my fun.

I got my second QX2710 after the first one developed vertical lines on half the screen. This time I got an ultimate perfect pixel from excellent castle, and I will admit that there are no dead pixels and damn near no backlight bleed that I can see from this beauty.

Unfortunately the monitor spontaneously shut off on its own after about five minutes. It turns out the DC jack is loose... now I have to pull up on the plug going in so it makes better contact. I took a picture to show this:

13592781774_e75cd391c1.jpg


Anyone had this issue before? I emailed excellent castle to see if they can just send me a new input board since the DVI and power supply are probably on the same one. Anyone just replaced the DC input jack? I am good with soldering so I would be comfortable with doing the work. I'd rather not send this back to S. Korea.
 
I was playing ESO then the game crashed. I thought no big deal, it always crashes... reboot my machine and now my monitor is flickering. Anyone else had flickering and got rid of it?
 
Ordered one of these from ECOMADE ARENA on Amazon yesterday. Late yesterday, actually. Just got email saying it gets delivered tomorrow. O.O

Edit: And it's origin is Songpagu, Korea, Republic of

How the hell do they do that?
 
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they must have warehouse with some in stock

Yes, but it's literally in South Korea. Lol look at this! lol They can get monitor from Incheon to Dustbowl, Texas in 2 days.

Capture_zpsdafd17fb.png~original


The monitor actually went back in time before arriving in Alaska o_O
 
It crossed the international date line (though you probably knew that already). It took me a minute when my last one went through.
 
It crossed the international date line (though you probably knew that already). It took me a minute when my last one went through.

I've heard that if you stand on some of the Alaskan islands you can see the future of Russia :)

I did not expect it to work in reverse and get me a monitor yesterday. Weird experience. That said I don't have it yet I don't think. Maybe it's already set up. Damn. No I still have to wait ;)
 
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