Bluesun311
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Yes
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27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 impressions
- Thread starter Godmachine
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My "ultimate pixel perfect" did indeed come with no dead pixels and OCS to 120hz. Unfortunately, it just doesn't fit by about 1/4" in my desk and I absolutely can't change my desk. Argh... I think I may need to return this or sell it. I almost want to forgo my desk entirely and just set up on the floor this display is so nice
I stuffed mine into an ikea corner desk. I had about a 1/4" of room to work with.
jasonstats1
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I posted on OC forums but didn't receive any replies yet. I'll repost here if anyone could respond. My previous question was very vague.
Okay, please excuse my ignorance. I currently have the Asus VG248QE 144Hz 1ms and I have been eyeing the new Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 1440p 144Hz 1ms and the QNIX 1440p.
My issue is understanding the numbers if someone can please help me out.
Just as an example, say the Qnix monitor I buy has a refresh rate capped at 96Hz and measured response time is 8ms.
A new frame is rendered every 1 / 96 Hz = 10.4ms.
At 8ms GTG response time, wouldn't there be some time left (10.4ms - 8ms = 2.4ms) that would stop any ghosting/motion blur? I see in the FAQ it says that there is noticeable motion blurring in FPS games with the QNIX QX2710.
I understand that there are no real industry standards when it comes to measuring response times. I would just like to know why, if the pixel response time is less than the refresh rate, how is it not sufficient enough for professional FPS use (i.e., no motion blur)?
Best regards and thanks in advance!
I read on another forum (or maybe it was here) the vesa mount on the back was kind of wonky and didnt actually fit third party mounts. Looking at getting a triple monitor mount for my X-Star and two other 23 inchers....has anyone successfully installed a different mount and had it work properly?
Bluesun311
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Yah that's a fair question, it's one that I ask the guys that won't accept anything but Lightboost/Turbo240 anymore. But it's a very personal thing. Motion blur isn't as important or just isn't as apparent or noticeable to some people. Some people play games that make motion blur much more of an issue. If you are playing strip poker online it's not going to make much difference
But you specifically said FPS games, if 8ms pixel persistence will produce noticeable motion blur--yes. It will. How noticeable? Well, it's 7x as much blur as with Lightboost on your monitor. How much is that? Idk, not much it really doesn't bother me lol. So that's how I end up in arguments with people over Lightboost, which makes my eyes water and that's not good when you're trying to pick out where your pit-box is. Can't be good when you're trying to snipe a guy in the neck, either.
The OC monitors DO have noticeable motion blur during movement of the camera, or just tracking objects. The faster the motion, the worse the blur. So if you are playing FPS games for money, the 1ms TN with lightboost is hands down what you want to have.
The explanation really is simply that with your VG248QE using 120Hz with Lightboost hack on--there is literally almost zero motion blur. How? It's being hidden from you. The backlight is being turned off and back on again every single time there is a refresh cycle (blocky movement at highspeed still looks blocky to your brain, using the strobe tricks your brain into interpreting this as no longer blocky). This also hides pixel transitions (colors changing on stationary pixels). Anyway... I play adventure games and I occasionally take the old Logitech Force Feedback wheel out for a spin, but I'm not competitive anymore, and so a good balance between emmersive color and emmersive smooth motion is what I want. If the Swift has decent color without bad backlight bleeding like I've seen from Asus lightboost monitors in the past (VG278HE), then it will be an instant hit for me. But I'll probably play quite a bit with Lightboost off... because it actually stings my retinas after a bit. Doesn't mean it doesn't look amazing to me.
One thought I'll leave you with though. Even mathematically, I don't think the 120Hz OC monitors are that bad off from Lightboost. They aren't in the same league but they are in a league of their own in terms of color: if the 120Hz Catleap (you may find a 120Hz Qnix hard to find, might not) has 7x the blur of a 1ms Lightboost TN, and a Lightboost TN has essentially zero motion blur... what's 7x almost zero? Still almost zero. I like the OC monitors a lot. The Qnix is prettier, the Catleaps all have a slightly darker strip across the bottom of the screen (not very noticeable and it's there on all S-IPS), but the Catleaps are much easier to hit 120Hz with, and they are glossy. I can't even choose between them, to be honest. I have 1 of each and I don't know which to get rid of to make room for the Swift.
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I have had success with this 3M MS110MB mount; I didn't have any alignment issues with my previous 2710:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013CD0DI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't had the time to put it on my replacement yet.
jasonstats1
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Yah that's a fair question, it's one that I ask the guys that won't accept anything but Lightboost/Turbo240 anymore. But it's a very personal thing. Motion blur isn't as important or just isn't as apparent or noticeable to some people. Some people play games that make motion blur much more of an issue. If you are playing strip poker online it's not going to make much difference
But you specifically said FPS games, if 8ms pixel persistence will produce noticeable motion blur--yes. It will. How noticeable? Well, it's 7x as much blur as with Lightboost on your monitor. How much is that? Idk, not much it really doesn't bother me lol. So that's how I end up in arguments with people over Lightboost, which makes my eyes water and that's not good when you're trying to pick out where your pit-box is. Can't be good when you're trying to snipe a guy in the neck, either.
The OC monitors DO have noticeable motion blur during movement of the camera, or just tracking objects. The faster the motion, the worse the blur. So if you are playing FPS games for money, the 1ms TN with lightboost is hands down what you want to have.
The explanation really is simply that with your VG248QE using 120Hz with Lightboost hack on--there is literally almost zero motion blur. How? It's being hidden from you. The backlight is being turned off and back on again every single time there is a refresh cycle (blocky movement at highspeed still looks blocky to your brain, using the strobe tricks your brain into interpreting this as no longer blocky). This also hides pixel transitions (colors changing on stationary pixels). Anyway... I play adventure games and I occasionally take the old Logitech Force Feedback wheel out for a spin, but I'm not competitive anymore, and so a good balance between emmersive color and emmersive smooth motion is what I want. If the Swift has decent color without bad backlight bleeding like I've seen from Asus lightboost monitors in the past (VG278HE), then it will be an instant hit for me. But I'll probably play quite a bit with Lightboost off... because it actually stings my retinas after a bit. Doesn't mean it doesn't look amazing to me.
One thought I'll leave you with though. Even mathematically, I don't think the 120Hz OC monitors are that bad off from Lightboost. They aren't in the same league but they are in a league of their own in terms of color: if the 120Hz Catleap (you may find a 120Hz Qnix hard to find, might not) has 7x the blur of a 1ms Lightboost TN, and a Lightboost TN has essentially zero motion blur... what's 7x almost zero? Still almost zero. I like the OC monitors a lot. The Qnix is prettier, the Catleaps all have a slightly darker strip across the bottom of the screen (not very noticeable and it's there on all S-IPS), but the Catleaps are much easier to hit 120Hz with, and they are glossy. I can't even choose between them, to be honest. I have 1 of each and I don't know which to get rid of to make room for the Swift.
Such an excellent response. I appreciate the logical reasoning you used instead of getting all up in arms about your opinion and experiences. I think I will wait for the Swift, as much as I have no problem overclocking, I maybe too used to the lack of motion blur. I did have have a 30" 2560x1600 Monoprice that used AH-IPS LG panels and the clarity and colors were sharp. BUT, the motion blur really annoyed me so I quit using it. Haha.
I wish we could pre-order the Swift Bluesun311
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Soon. My friend. Soon.I wish we could pre-order the Swift
l88bastard
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Bluesun311
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Lmfao. It is a reasonable solution dude. That bezel really isn't necessary.
jasonstats1
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Soon. My friend. Soon.
Ah, just saw, it's being released in July
. Awesome. And btw, I just had this random thought. How is it that these single input Korean IPS panels can overclock to higher refresh rates but we're told over and over that IPS panels can't support higher refresh rates? And since somehow these are overclockable, don't these run a risk of crapping out in the long run since the hardware is not really meant to be run at these rates? I mean, if they truly were stable in the long run, wouldn't they simply market them and make loads of money on them? Just a shower thought. Bluesun311
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They can only overclock this high because they have no scaler and no Menu etc. which makes them not very marketable for the larger market. All of these things degrade the signal strength maybe, I'm really not sure. It's just what we have. There are overclockable IPS/PLS, native 120Hz TNs and the Eizo FG2421(AMVA). I've used them all, I liked them all, I couldn't go back to less than 96Hz if I tried. I'd just find something else to do. But yeah the difference in blur between 120Hz without lightboost and 120Hz with lightboost is pretty significant.
bought the eizo LS-H 52-D vesa 100 mount (20€
It isn't as well build as some other eizo stands (especially with their higher end screens)
but for the price it is great imho
you have height adjustment (the monitor is the right weight to counter the pressure of the spring)
pivot; swivel and tilt
It isn't as well build as some other eizo stands (especially with their higher end screens)
but for the price it is great imho
you have height adjustment (the monitor is the right weight to counter the pressure of the spring)
pivot; swivel and tilt
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Arizonian7
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I don't know why people are going crazy about 4K monitors.
Unless of course, they own the new Radeon R9 295X2.
Bluesun311
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Nope.
still not interested. 1440p@120hz is where it's at for PC gaming right now. 4k will be absolutely amazing in a few years when our GPUs can comfortably drive the 4k res at higher fps and refresh. 295x2 is just 2 290x's and mine struggles to keep up with 120fps at 1440. Dropping detail isn't exactly my cup of tea but I'll do what I have to to maintain proper framerate. Thee people that claim their single 290s can run everything maxxed are flat lying, not paying attention to their frame rates, playing at 1080p or some combination of these.Agreed. The only 4K panel even remotely worth considering, the AUOptronics AHVA 4K 32", isn't due to be released for a while.
I own 2 r9 290 for a crossfire, so power is not an issue, but I'm not interested in 4k monitors for gaming. I'm interested in 40"+ 4k monitors because of the sheer workspace they make available, allowing me to keep A LOT of stuff on the screen and still have space for more.
whoever you heard that from is an idiot. 120 Hz is 120 Hz.
anyway, what's up with color sustainer using 1.3 GB of RAM? that program has a serious memory leak going on.
I've had a QNIX 2710 for a little over a month and have an issue. Starting today, when I try to turn my monitor on after being off for a while, it will flash the screen for a fraction of a second then turn off. I have been able to make it work by unplugging the PSU from the socket and waiting a bit. Then, it will still flicker a couple times trying to turn on, but eventually work.
Has anyone seen this before? Is this a PSU issue and I need a replacement? Or is this the monitor?
Thanks.
Has anyone seen this before? Is this a PSU issue and I need a replacement? Or is this the monitor?
Thanks.
Received my QNIX QX2710 from green-sum a few days ago. Shipped on Friday and got it Monday!! No dead pixels and no BLB that I can see. Got it running at 110hz and just love it. Just wanted to point out to anyone overclocking theirs not to use the quix drivers, instead use the catleap monitor drivers. I noticed that when oc using the quix drivers it would change my color bit to 16 causing colors to look much worse. I updated the monitor drivers to the catleap driver and got to 110hz at 32bits. Honestly I don't see any difference now in colors going from 60 to 110hz. Also the brightness is the exact same. Well thanks to all in the HUGE tread!
Pic or it didn't happen
Pic or it didn't happen
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Has anyone successfully run a mac mini (2012 w/ mavericks) with this display? I've looked thru some of the posts on apple discussion boards and there are complaints that when their machine comes out of hibernation the display doesn't come to life. Reconnecting the video cable fixes the problem, but thats sort of a hassle. And I think it's specific to macbooks.
DarkStar02
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No problems with coming out of hibernation but it does go black for like 2 seconds every once and a while (Late 2013 Macbook Pro Retina 15").
Only the single input monitors can overclock properly. The multi-input monitors drop frames and stutter/lag when overclocked and use LED PWM Dimming even though they are advertised as being PWM/Flicker Free.
The first post in this thread is filled with lots of helpful information.
The first post in this thread is filled with lots of helpful information.
Bluesun311
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The Qnix definitely is good enough for photo editing. Absolutely. The thing is there's variations on the panel/PCB sets that affect how well the panel will overclock. At 60Hz these are generally about the best sRGB monitors for editing under 800 dollars. As you overclock them higher they tend to get dimmer and it sometimes isn't even across the screen. That said I prefer doing *anything* at a higher refresh rate and higher framerate. Even just browsing on the web I must have smooth motion or I start to get irritated.
But, generally speaking, the 2 Matte Qnix's I got from Ecomade Arena on Amazon (AccessoriesWhole on eBay, iirc) were BOTH the best panels I've ever seen. They hit 100% sRGB coverage and the uniformity was staggering. One of them was completely backlight bleed free but had a tiny bit of glow, and the other was the opposite. I had a really hard time choosing between the Qnix and Catleap. I mostly only sold the Qnix because it involved losing less money. The IPS variants like the Overlord and Catleap should have an unfortunate dark strip at the bottom of the screen. It's not a defect its a panel tech. limitation and it's not particularly noticeable. The PLS Qnix will not have any unfortunate or obvious abnormalities anywhere. I did test a glossy Xstar that was pretty different from those, however. It had been damaged slightly in shipping but still worked. It was clearly a different panel/PCB combination altogether although it was a Samsung PLS as far as I know. The thing just acted completely different about overclocking from the Qnix's and it had completely different color characteristics--not nearly as good.
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Thanks very helpful,was going for hp z24i but wanted the extra pixels.Ecomade arena have 2 types of Qnix one is a regular matte and the other dpmulti true 10 bit.Any concern?
The multi-inpit (True 10) Qnix/X-Star's drop frames when overclocked (=can't actually overclock and feel laggy/stuttery) and are not flicker free/use LED PWM Dimming even though they are advertised as being Flicker/PWM free and capable of overclocking. Only the single input Qnix/X-Star's and MOTV m2700/Overlord OC/Yamakasi Catleap 2B can overclock.
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Space_Coyote
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Sorry for the semi-necro. I've read through most of this thread, as well as some other threads, but there aren't many recent updates that I can see. Are these still as overclockable as they were? From what I understand, the new AH-VA panels aren't at all, and actually have more lag, despite advertising 4ms.
So I was thinking about this one, since I don't have a ton of light in my room. Is it still a good buy?
So I was thinking about this one, since I don't have a ton of light in my room. Is it still a good buy?
This is the correct one, with only the DVI input and overclocks without frame dropping (from what i read everyone reaches at least 96 Hz)
What is the difference between the QNIX QX2710 reviewed and the QNIX2710 EVOLUTION2 (non multi) Is there any difference? Need a review of the new QNIX2710 EVOLUTION2 (non multi) Might just get one anyway for that price. I assume it would be a similar PLS panel to the AOC monitor but with only DVI so no input lag?
Anyone know which panel number they use in the different models? Are Qnix the best out of the korean monitors?
Anyone know which panel number they use in the different models? Are Qnix the best out of the korean monitors?