24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Bummrus[H]a;1030672047 said:
I just hooked up my 2nd FW900. Bliss.

I'm having some trouble setting up the second screen though, i've never had dual monitors before. Right now it's set so the 2nd monitor doesn't show anything but the wallpaper unless i drag it onto that screen.

So my question is, how can i tweak the screen with programs like Nokia Monitor test and Checkmon? When i run them they go full screen on my primary display, but i can't get them to show on the secondary.

:confused:

Something strange i noticed while setting up the resolution and stuff with powerstrip on the secondary. My main screen can do a max of 96Hz at 1920x1200 (pixel clock 317.903MHz, 121.152kHz scan rate, 96Hz refresh), but my second screen can do 98Hz (pixel clock 316.227MHz, 122.001kHz scan, 97.993Hz refresh) at the same resolution. My main screen is also slightly newer, so i guess a newer FW900 doesn't mean a superior one.
Anyway, any guess as to why the pixel clock is higher on my main even though it's doing a lower scan/refresh rate?
Click to expand...

Dual FW900s? Sick man.. Very sick.
 
Bummrus[H]a;1030672047 said:
I'm having some trouble setting up the second screen though, i've never had dual monitors before. Right now it's set so the 2nd monitor doesn't show anything but the wallpaper unless i drag it onto that screen.

So my question is, how can i tweak the screen with programs like Nokia Monitor test and Checkmon? When i run them they go full screen on my primary display, but i can't get them to show on the secondary.
Click to expand...
You can switch your 2ndary monitor to your primary one under the windows screen setup. Just disable the primary in windows and the second monitor will automatically become the primary.

Bummrus[H]a;1030672047 said:
Something strange i noticed while setting up the resolution and stuff with powerstrip on the secondary. My main screen can do a max of 96Hz at 1920x1200 (pixel clock 317.903MHz, 121.152kHz scan rate, 96Hz refresh), but my second screen can do 98Hz (pixel clock 316.227MHz, 122.001kHz scan, 97.993Hz refresh) at the same resolution. My main screen is also slightly newer, so i guess a newer FW900 doesn't mean a superior one.
Anyway, any guess as to why the pixel clock is higher on my main even though it's doing a lower scan/refresh rate?
Click to expand...
Every monitor is different, so you can have different refresh rates for different monitors at the exact same resolution.
 
Hi guys, I have a problem with the WinDAS Cable.

I simply can't reach the 4pin connector and plug the cable over there, it is unfeasible, the hole is way too small for everyone. I guess I'll need to remove the monitor's casing...But I need a guide now, as I don't even know where to start! :(

Please help
 
XAleX360 said:
Hi guys, I have a problem with the WinDAS Cable.

I simply can't reach the 4pin connector and plug the cable over there, it is unfeasible, the hole is way too small for everyone. I guess I'll need to remove the monitor's casing...But I need a guide now, as I don't even know where to start! :(

Please help
Click to expand...

I used tweezers if I recall to fit the WinDAS cable...
 
Well, just made my 2nd Windas update to the G2 (brightness) value.

In June, I had to move it down from 155 to 150.

I probably put off moving it down for about two months too long. But today, I finally got around to it and decided to go beyond the normal 5-point adjustment and put it down to 142.

So, the slow march to oblivion for this monitor is on! Looks like I'm losing about a point of G2 per month. I think that's tolerable. I doubt this monitor will last another decade anyways! Of course, it's looking like it'll be at least that long before we see SED (if ever). :D

Quick note though. I had a bit of a scare. I used "Programmer's Notepad" to edit the dat file this time. I could have sworn it was was worked for me last time since we're not supposed to use Notepad (doesn't save in ASCI). Well, upon uploading, the monitor turned on, and the brightness was adjusted, but I couldn't access the on-screen menus! I got a little green "lock" icon no matter what I pressed. :confused:

Always make a copy of your default/good DAT file before editing it. Thankfully, I was able to upload my original and get control of my monitor again. I then used "edit" from the command prompt to edit my DAT file and uploaded. Problem solved. . . and I now have inky blacks again! :)
 
XAleX360 said:
What is a tweezer man?:p
Click to expand...

tweezers_large.jpg
:D


I used a flathead screwdriver to guide the connector onto the pins in the monitor, i also removed the white plastic cover that was on the windas cable (connector end) ,this made it easier to connect.

EDIT: probably easier to just show a pic , I removed the L shaped cover that the red arrows are pointing to:

windas%20cable_arrows.jpg
 
Does anyone know about how much power the FW900 pulls when you have the blank screensaver on?

I'm just wondering if leaving it on with a blank screensaver could be a workaround for the long warmup period.
 
Bummrus[H]a;1030686839 said:
Does anyone know about how much power the FW900 pulls when you have the blank screensaver on?

I'm just wondering if leaving it on with a blank screensaver could be a workaround for the long warmup period.
Click to expand...

I use a blank screensaver, and it makes the brightness problem get worse faster. According to my UPS, it's 87W for normal use, and 78W with a blank screensaver.
 
mathesar said:
tweezers_large.jpg
:D


I used a flathead screwdriver to guide the connector onto the pins in the monitor, i also removed the white plastic cover that was on the windas cable (connector end) ,this made it easier to connect.

EDIT: probably easier to just show a pic , I removed the L shaped cover that the red arrows are pointing to:

windas%20cable_arrows.jpg
Click to expand...

I tried tweezers and they weren't strong enough to hold it when it hit the wire.. I just have to wonder why the connector was made in such a way that requires crimping the wire to install it. It would have been 100000000 times easier if it were wired the other way. Then it would be simple!
 
Little update on my latest Windas programming this weekend (from above).

Decided I could use a bit brighter whites. And I wasn't happy with having to have my Contrast almost maxed (95 or so).

So, raised my DRIVE_MAX from 210 (default) to 235.

While I was in there, I decided to nudge the G2 a bit lower as well from 142 to 140 (default was 155).

I now get a good balance at front-end settings of Brightness=20 Contrast=70.

Inky blacks. Bright whites (without overdoing it). Couldn't be happier. :D
 
Been doing HD Video Editing on this... My footage is 1920 x 1080... Monitor running at 1920 x 1200 ;) It's awesome...

I'm thinking of getting another one... I was looking at the P1690 ... it's a Dell / Sony and says it runs at 16 x 10 1920 x 1200 max... could be a decent second monitor...

Either way...

http://www.lousyheros.com/videos/sweetmq.wmv for those who want to see what I'm working on... it looks pretty amazing full screen... (That's compressed and 1/10th the quality of the raw footage...)
 
which software r u folks using to view HD content and standard DVD w/ option for Progressive?


When viewing DVD w/ WinDVD, my content looks ok not so sharp.


thank you..........Jason
 
Anyone have a fix (other than changing refresh rates, I've tried that) for my text seemingly wanting to move left and right a small amount and making some text (not all) appear blurry? I'm just wondering if there is anything else I can try before I call someone to get it fixed.
 
It's HD content I filmed myself... got an HD camera ;)

Fits perfect and looks amazing on the FW900... I have no regrets getting this monitor...
 
I bought my GDM FW900 in 2001 from Directron for $1900. My monitor worked flawless in it's first 2yrs but it started showing problems sooner than I expected. Here's my Sony GDM Fw900 after 6yrs of everyday use.(on/off at least 2 times a day).

http://www.supload.us/free/fw900.jpg/view/
I don't know if you guys can see those wires/lines across the screen but I started seeing those 2yrs ago(sometimes it would go away after 5mins).

http://www.supload.us/free/fw900.jpg/view/
The wires/lines are always there now no matter how long I use it. It's not as sharp as when I first bought it, the text are little blurry now and colors are just not as colorful. I don't bother adjusting the settings anymore bec. the screen is a little washed out.

Also the monitor screen zooms in and out when you look at white pictures or backgrounds for the first 5 mins of use. The upper right corner of the screen shakes like there's an interference next to it when someone uses hot water in our house?lol

It still works but it makes my computer look old, time to replace this 100lb monster.
I'm deciding between Dell's 3007 HC and that Westy LVM 37w3 or a new $800 Nokia N95 cellphone :)
 
kennl66 said:
I bought my GDM FW900 in 2001 from Directron for $1900. My monitor worked flawless in it's first 2yrs but it started showing problems sooner than I expected. Here's my Sony GDM Fw900 after 6yrs of everyday use.(on/off at least 2 times a day).

http://www.supload.us/free/fw900.jpg/view/
I don't know if you guys can see those wires/lines across the screen but I started seeing those 2yrs ago(sometimes it would go away after 5mins).

http://www.supload.us/free/fw900.jpg/view/
The wires/lines are always there now no matter how long I use it. It's not as sharp as when I first bought it, the text are little blurry now and colors are just not as colorful. I don't bother adjusting the settings anymore bec. the screen is a little washed out.
Click to expand...

The lack of color / overbrightness and those wavy lines can all be fixed by lowering the G2 level in the monitors firmware, it requires a special cable ($35,Link ) and windas software which is easily found, Not sure if its worth fixing to you but just thought i'd let ya know.

I restored a Sony G400 using this method , some pics here: Link
 
mathesar said:
The lack of color / overbrightness and those wavy lines can all be fixed by lowering the G2 level in the monitors firmware, it requires a special cable ($35,Link ) and windas software which is easily found, Not sure if its worth fixing to you but just thought i'd let ya know.

I restored a Sony G400 using this method , some pics here: Link
Click to expand...

Wow thats quite a change, definatly worth the 35 clams in my opinion.
 
2560x1600

Anyone know why I can't run this resolution?

Everytime I set it that high it gets really distorted and impossible to use... Is it not automatically lowering the refresh rate?
 
I just put a X1950-PRO to this monitor and it has been weird working with the Catalyst driver suite. Where 1280x800 used to work for me and was a preference, I can't get the image to fill the screen corner to corner anymore. I can expand the image manually, but I am left with half inch black bars top and bottom and the osd shows 100% expansion. 1280x768 works though. I wonder if I should just stick with 1280x768. That would be 16x9 though right? What kind of distortion will I notice with 1280x768? Is there a fix to get my old resolution options back? (already tried powerstrip) I'm confused :confused:
 
mathesar said:
The lack of color / overbrightness and those wavy lines can all be fixed by lowering the G2 level in the monitors firmware, it requires a special cable ($35,Link ) and windas software which is easily found, Not sure if its worth fixing to you but just thought i'd let ya know.

I restored a Sony G400 using this method , some pics here: Link
Click to expand...

Thank you! thank you! I was ready to kill and throw away this monitor :eek: I had no idea crt monitors can still be fixed. I wish I found out sooner, like 2 yrs ago lol. I will definitely give it a try. thanks again!!! :) I will post the before and after. You made my day :)
 
Anyone know a good 4:3 monitor that has the same resolution (well height ... 1200) as well as the same physical height/screen level...

I want to get another trinitron CRT for a second monitor for video editing/whatever but want it to match...

I was looking at a 21" E500 locally... I had an E200 and it was my first "good" CRT monitor... I loved it... lasted 5-6 years before we gave it away...

But the E500 is $60... not too bad... as long as it's in good condition...

I'd actually prefer annother FW900 but they're not easy to come by locally, I got really lucky... $200 for a local pickup... (Got it at 2 AM... the guy was a night person... so were his roommates :p ) And it was in flawless condition... perfectly focused, bright w/ good black levels... it is the perfect monitor imo.
 
Haha I did calibrate it a bit, honestly though I think the guy bought it and never used it... he paid $1400 which meant it was a bit under retail (I think they were going for 1900 at one point)

But I think I got a good deal ... I want another :eek:
 
I'm so freakin' mad at myself. I've been looking for a pristine spare for a few months now. And I've been considering spending $350 and about 200 miles in gas to go pick one up. But, of course, I looked on Craig's List today and saw that one had been available in my own town for the last month! He just sold it. And it was pristine. I may weep openly. :(
 
ynih said:
Is this the one in Glendale? Maybe he'll get some more for you.
Click to expand...
Nah. This was one in my own home town. And it looked to be pristine. The guy in Glendale is the other option. :)

Now shhhh before people go buy all the Glendale ones too! :p
 
I'm interested in getting a Refurbished Grade A- fw900 from AcuriteIT. Would you guys recommend doing this? Or will I be buying a dying monitor. I'm concerned about paying $400 dollars for one of these things and it dying in a year. Thanks for your input.
 
Hurin said:
Nah. This was one in my own home town. And it looked to be pristine. The guy in Glendale is the other option. :)

Now shhhh before people go buy all the Glendale ones too! :p
Click to expand...
Hhaha, : -P I see. well good luck with finding a pristine unit then!



chkMINUS said:
I'm interested in getting a Refurbished Grade A- fw900 from AcuriteIT. Would you guys recommend doing this? Or will I be buying a dying monitor. I'm concerned about paying $400 dollars for one of these things and it dying in a year. Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...
I did not buy mine as a refurbished unit, but have heard of many others that bought used/non-refurbs and it's lasted them at least more than a year. AccurateIT seems to have good monitors, if you want to really shell out that much for a (in the end) "used" monitor. just my $0.02
 
kennl66 said:
I bought my GDM FW900 in 2001 from Directron for $1900. My monitor worked flawless in it's first 2yrs but it started showing problems sooner than I expected. Here's my Sony GDM Fw900 after 6yrs of everyday use.(on/off at least 2 times a day).

http://www.supload.us/free/fw900.jpg/view/
I don't know if you guys can see those wires/lines across the screen but I started seeing those 2yrs ago(sometimes it would go away after 5mins).

http://www.supload.us/free/fw900.jpg/view/
The wires/lines are always there now no matter how long I use it. It's not as sharp as when I first bought it, the text are little blurry now and colors are just not as colorful. I don't bother adjusting the settings anymore bec. the screen is a little washed out.

Also the monitor screen zooms in and out when you look at white pictures or backgrounds for the first 5 mins of use. The upper right corner of the screen shakes like there's an interference next to it when someone uses hot water in our house?lol

It still works but it makes my computer look old, time to replace this 100lb monster.
I'm deciding between Dell's 3007 HC and that Westy LVM 37w3 or a new $800 Nokia N95 cellphone :)
Click to expand...


About the screen shaking, that's been reported in other 'overly bright' sony models before. There may be a pattern here.

But, most interesting, is the screen zooming.

Does everyone with the brightness problem also get the screenzooming? Some people have the brightnens problem, but don't have the screenzooming.... this seems inconsistent. Hmm.

And I'm pretty sure everyone is getting the 'bright warmup' problem? It actually seems that this is not normal afterall. Does anyone have a new/ unused sony monitor that would normaly suffer from the bright warmup problem? Do they still do this when they are new?



mathesar said:
The lack of color / overbrightness and those wavy lines can all be fixed by lowering the G2 level in the monitors firmware, it requires a special cable ($35,Link ) and windas software which is easily found, Not sure if its worth fixing to you but just thought i'd let ya know.

I restored a Sony G400 using this method , some pics here: Link
Click to expand...

MichaelJB said:
Wow thats quite a change, definatly worth the 35 clams in my opinion.
Click to expand...

The cable can actually be had for only one clam.($1) :cool:

It's just a standard RS232 <> TTL signal converter chip ($1, buy them on ebay, or at jameco.com) and some wires. MAX232 HIN232 etc., every IC manufacturer makes one. You can even make one from discrete components if you're so inclined.

My howto: http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/

and this shortmedia thread:http://www.short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?p=392396#post392396

The above links explain the whole thing, including obtaining a patched copy of the windas software. I also list multiple options on how to build/buy a cable from different sources depending on your continent(just summed up from what people said they used in the thread).

In addittion there are some high quality posts buried in this thread. (try searching this thread for DRIVE_MAX). I also saw mention of a howto about increasing contrast, but I haven't seen the link to it? Anyone know it?

You can also buy a cable in a protective case (less suspectible to ESD) on ebay for atleast $15 cheaper . Many do not have the 4-pin plug that crimps. However, I'm told the floppy power plug from an old powersupply makes the prefect fit :p

http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-5-Vo...oryZ4661QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You can find more , and maybe even cheaper by searching 'rs232 ttl' on ebay. You can also try other search strings, cellphone data cables are exactly the same thing. It's a very commom cable.

There's also talk of having a cable that thread users can trade around. Check the shortmedia thread for posts realating to that idea.

Now, the reason emusicraft had released their own version of a very common cable is.. mysterious. As the schematics in the DOS das archive from 2002 show, the 'ECS cable' was a simple RS232<>TTL converter chip.:rolleyes:

http://www.short-media.com/forum/showpost.php?p=309256&postcount=196

As seen on the above post, emusicraft had been selling the cable for $35, but had been denying the customer the ability to tweak their own monitor.
Instead, future adjustments came at $10 each. No windas in those days, all the cable got you was the privledge to purchase G2 adjustments.

Fortunately, times have changed, and people have devised many ways to slap together a cable based on your available parts. This was so long in coming because the cable schematics were buried in the original DOS DAS zip from eservice.info .
Today, Windas is now walked through step by step, and adjustments can be done for free as often as you like and to ANY setting.

So for those new to this thread, make sure to get the entire story so you know your options.

Oh, and here is the memo I meant to post about the ABL:
Sony Memo from RAYMAN said:
CONFIDENTIAL

Last Update
3/6/2002 Event ID
E14757495 Model
CPDG500, GDM5402, GDMF500R
Subject
Screen zooming when power is turned on

SYMPTOMS

The ABL circuit is activated by the initial drift of the CRT
when
the power is turned on, possibly causing screen zooming.

RESOLUTION

Change R931 on the D Board in the above-mentioned sets from 1.2k
to 1.0K.

Ref Description Part Number
R931 Metal Film Chip resistor 1.0K 1/10W 1-216-651-11



Be sure to check and adjust auto white balance if necessary in
order to correct the change in luminance due to long-time use. This
change will not cause any problem about the X-ray control standard.

MORE INFORMATION
o

Unit/Model Details
o

Parts
o

Links

Unit/Model Detail
Unit(s): SN Start SN End Factory Family Name Product
Category
CPDG500 ALL ALL INY G1 C/P
GDM5402 ALL ALL C/P
GDMF500R ALL ALL INY G1 C/P

Parts
Part Number Reference Number Description Symptom Code
Section
Code PCB Reference Defect Code Repair Code
1-216-651-11 R931 Metal Film Chip resistor 1.0K 1/10W 1336
VPA D A I
Click to expand...

Now, this 'initial drift of the CRT', if any of you physics people can figure out what is going on here I will be eternally gratefull.

The clues are, (thanks to mesurements taken by Xweebie, of emusicraft) that this 'inital drift' or, 'bright warmup' has nothing to do with an increased voltage on the G2 G1 or any of the other grids.

Xweebie mentions the only voltage applied to the tube that may be drifting is the HV across the tube itself. He also told me that the a repairman had been claiming to replace the flybacks of monitors with the problem.

Previously, some one with a sony 'overly bright' CRT , (in this case, a P1110), had sought advice from a TV repairman.
The repairman basicly said that overly bright warmup and operation are signs that the CRT vacuum is leaky and the gassy tube now causes the flyback to work harder, explaining why it may be activating the ABL circuit.

My common sense leads me to think a leaky tube would be dimmer, but, apparently, this shows how little I can figure out about the subject. Perhaps some circuitry is automaticly raising the HV across the tube to compensate? And, as the air ionizes, maybe it is drawn out of the way of the beam, and so, the vacuum quality increases?

There is a vacuume lab at my school, I wonder if I can get them to re evacuate my tube. Ofcourse, melting the glass would be challenging. Actually, there's got to be some way to tell if it's leaky and if it is, maybe a CRT rebuilder wouldn't be out of the question.

The Monitor Repair FAQ says that the getter inside the tube will turn some color if your tube has a leak.

Look around the neck of the CRT for a coating - the getter. If it has turned
white or red, your CRT is history. If it is still silver, the vacuum is
intact
Click to expand...
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_crtfaq.html

Scratches or nicks on the monitor? It's not that bad a problem, try the auto windshield filler. It's mentioned in the above monitor repair FAQ


Anyhow,
I'm sure CRT rebuilders are really pressed to find buisness thanks to the mass replacement of CRT by LCD. Perhaps that may mean higher prices though. :(

So, yeah, if anyone has any ideas about what is going on with these CRTs, it would really help if you'd share it.

I keep seeing these FW-900s , but I'm afraid I'm going to end up with a flyback problem, or worse, a CRT caused flyback problem. Atleast the windas fix makes them last a lot longer, and if a leak can be confirmed, then there will probably be a 'putty fix' where you plug the leak (likely the pins in the tip of the CRT neck), and halt further damage.

Then again, if some one has never before used monitor that was manufactured a some time ago, that still has the 'overly bright' characteristics, their experience would strongly sugest it is a leak.

Then, if it has no overly bright characteristics, perhaps there is no leak, or the leak develops later?

If SED or FED would just come out soon (and cheap) enough.... with no shadow mask/aperture grill whatso ever, it will make the difference between shadow mask, and aperture grill look trivial.

Btw, there is a new CRT (prototype still) without a shadow mask/aperture grill, which should bring all the benefits of SED without locking you into a fixed native resolution, nor the expensive manufacturing cost.

(O)LED actually seems like the best though. Bombarding phosphors with electrons is old, crude, and has the disadvantage of gradual wear.
LED sounds much more efficient and direct/precise production of light at just the right frequency to stimulate only one of the 3 types of cones on your retina.

I'm effectively boycotting LCD on anything but laptops,cell phones, and checkbook calculators. No amount of improvements to LCD can ever make it more than the inneficient, and imperfect thing that it is.
It is exactly the same thing used in your graphing and 4 function calculators, except it has a bright backlight behind it, (rather than a mirror), and colored filters infront of it. The backlight is at most N% efficient as any light not generated with the right polarization is absorbed and becomes heat. Based on the generally screwy contrast and brightness controlls on LCD's I've seen, the twisting of the polarising molecules from black, to white, doesn't have that large of a range and isn't kept very linear.
Though LCDs do have very bright backlights, this is actually nothing but a selling point. The human eye has a logarithmic response to light, a very bright display would have to deliver exponetial steps in brightness to achieve linearity, this gets a lot harder as you move the whole display up to be brighter. The result is that the difference in brightness of the 256 steps of the video signal get 'squished' in the upper steps. This is why theatres and TVs are traditionally watched with the shades drawn and the lights off.
Roughly, each time the brightness doubles, the eye percieves a linear step in brightness.
Added to the trouble, a brighter backlight means more leakage through what should be black.
All of this, ignoring pixel transition time, which, all LCD users have become aware of.

The real breakthrough in display technology, whatever it is, is producing very big, distinguishable, linear 'steps' of brightness. VGA only has 256 of them for each color, and there is a limit to how many the eye can percieve at one time, as when needing to adjust pupils. (It actually gets very complicated, as there are cones and rods, and different 'modes' of vission based on available light.)

Resolution has nothing do do with image quality. Now, you will probably bring up camera resolutions. Increasing the megaPixels is like zooming in and also increasing the filmsize so that none of the captured light cone, now expanded, is lost off the edges of the film.

You will see a minute portion of the subject as if you are stading just a few mm away, the large CCD size has gleaned all that detail from the light.

Now, in order for your limited retina to see the whole picture, you need to increase your distance from the pixels displaying the image, or make those pixels smaller. In making the pixels smaller, you have two limits to hit, the displays dot pitch, and your retina 'dot pitch'.
However, in increasing the disntance, you effectively make the pixels smaller, and now only have one limit, your retina 'dot pitch'.
But in increasing the distance, your retina may not be completly filled with the image, and THAT, is why you want more resolution. You'd want smaller dot pitch when you are forced to sit too close to pixels that are too large.
Resolution is a mesure of image size, not quality.


The implication of all this is that your eyes have a native resolution, or focus.
Hemispherical gogles with a certain dotpitch that can be calcuated based on their distance from the pupil and the dotpitch of the eyes would fill all the pixels of your eyes native resolution.


So once you've filled your retina with pixels of the right size at the right distance, the only factor in image quality is the range and linearity of the steps in brightness. And in motion picture, image pixel transition time.


Now, for a 1:10,000 contrast ratio, how many times can the brightness double? Increasing brightness linearly will make keeping your brightness steps linear exponentially harder, as each step grows eponentially.

Starting at near 0 for your first brightness step, and being in a dark room is a free and easy way to increase your image quality beyond what is currenntly available from the most expensive/brightest LCD out there.

Even in bright office lighting, where CRTs can be dim, the LCD's weak contrast ratio makes it necessary to squish brightness steps, limitting it to something of a 4 or 5 bit scale.

Well, that's basicly my reason for the boycott of LCD, as what is the point of a new display technology that does not actually improve the primary function of being a display? LCD should have been 'skipped' as a standard TV/monitor technology, instead, it's been pushed to the edge of it's inherently small envelope.

:eek: For anyone who actually read that, please correct, ridicule or dismiss me;)

Thanks everyone for keeping the Sony CRT tweakers scene live and well.
 
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Blazestorm said:
Haha I did calibrate it a bit, honestly though I think the guy bought it and never used it... he paid $1400 which meant it was a bit under retail (I think they were going for 1900 at one point)

But I think I got a good deal ... I want another :eek:
Click to expand...

Ok, so it's old, but rarely used?

Does it have the 'bright warmup' problem?

Would you be interested in mesuring voltages?:p

Where broken = brightness problems.
If there are rarely used yet broken ones, and frequently used ones the same age yet not broken, I'd think, CRT leak.

Then, if there are frequently used broken ones, and frequently used ones the same age yet not broken, I'd still think maybe component failure, or CRT leak.

Are there any young ones that have the brightness problem?

If there is a young heavily used one with no problem, but an old unused one with the problem, .... definitely crt leak.

Got to set up a pol.
Monitor manuf. date, estimated usage, brightness measured roughly by test pattern and known G2,DRIVE_MAX,BRT, CONT etc.
 
Sony Windas,

Thanks for the info. I already ordered the cable, I hope you don't mind if I PM you once I received the interface unit. I already downloaded the software that is needed for the fix from the site I ordered from. It's the Windas software. Thanks.
 
Sony Windas said:
About the screen shaking, that's been reported in other 'overly bright' sony models before. There may be a pattern here.

But, most interesting, is the screen zooming.

Does everyone with the brightness problem also get the screenzooming? Some people have the brightnens problem, but don't have the screenzooming.... this seems inconsistent. Hmm.

And I'm pretty sure everyone is getting the 'bright warmup' problem? It actually seems that this is not normal afterall. Does anyone have a new/ unused sony monitor that would normally suffer from the bright warmup problem? Do they still do this when they are new?
Click to expand...

No screen shaking here but I do have a *slightly* zoomed screen until it warms up. I bought a Sony G520P new in 2005 from newegg.com and its always had a bright warmup but the black levels become normal much faster than my FW900 (about 5 minutes vs. 15 on the FW900) The one weird thing about the G520P is the black levels have a red tint until it warms up.

Im curious why this bright warmup is so common in Sony PC CRTs but not with there standard CRT TV's or CRT HDTVs, I have 3 Sony TVs here and none of them suffer from slow / bright warmups (oldest model being a 27" Wega purchased in 2000)

http://www.short-media.com/forum/showpost.php?p=309256&postcount=196

As seen on the above post, emusicraft had been selling the cable for $35, but had been denying the customer the ability to tweak their own monitor.
Instead, future adjustments came at $10 each. No windas in those days, all the cable got you was the privledge to purchase G2 adjustments.
Click to expand...

emusicraft will sell the cable with windas if you request it (if not windas isnt hard to find) so you can do all the tweaking you want with their cable.
 
Sony Windas said:
Ok, so it's old, but rarely used?

Does it have the 'bright warmup' problem?

Would you be interested in mesuring voltages?:p

Where broken = brightness problems.
If there are rarely used yet broken ones, and frequently used ones the same age yet not broken, I'd think, CRT leak.

Then, if there are frequently used broken ones, and frequently used ones the same age yet not broken, I'd still think maybe component failure, or CRT leak.

Are there any young ones that have the brightness problem?

If there is a young heavily used one with no problem, but an old unused one with the problem, .... definitely crt leak.

Got to set up a pol.
Monitor manuf. date, estimated usage, brightness measured roughly by test pattern and known G2,DRIVE_MAX,BRT, CONT etc.
Click to expand...


CRT Leak? lol.

It just has bad black-levels on startup... blacks look like greys for about 30-45 minutes... (Guessing)... and after that It's all good...
 
Blazestorm said:
CRT Leak? lol.

It just has bad black-levels on startup... blacks look like greys for about 30-45 minutes... (Guessing)... and after that It's all good...
Click to expand...

Hm yea if it were a crt leak issue then that means every sony pc crt Ive owned had this problem and most people in this thread as well ...which I seriously doubt..,even my ancient sony g400 has this symptom. Im still curious as to what causes the gradual increase in brightness on a lot of these monitors tho, This IS a problem since it eventually causes the screen to look totally washed out (even after warmup) until you lower the G2 level.
 
Well a lot of other old CRTs seemed to have a problem with getting darker and darker. My bet is Sony tried to design something into the logic to reduce that effect and totally screwed it up, causing it to compensate about 50 times faster than it should.
 
UrielDagda said:
Well a lot of other old CRTs seemed to have a problem with getting darker and darker. My bet is Sony tried to design something into the logic to reduce that effect and totally screwed it up, causing it to compensate about 50 times faster than it should.
Click to expand...

I dont think thats the case ...Contrast is what a CRT gradually loses over time and in these cases its Brightness thats gradually increasing. But for some reason Trinitrons do maintain there Contrast over time much longer than Shadow mask based CRTs.
 
I found a couple P990 (Dell/Sony Trinitron 19") for $25 for the pair... wondering if it would work well with an FW900... (I'd probably only use one monitor... at 1600 x 1200 paired w/ the 1920 x 1200...)

Just wondering if the height would look right, I hate having different monitors in a dual monitor setup... but if the screens line up... I'd be interested in it..

Does anyone here have a P990? I want the screen to start at 5" and end at 17" (pretty much exactly)

Anyone know if the P990 is like that?
 
Hi guys, i've got a rather large problem with my fw900. The other day i was playing bf1942 and all of a sudden the monitor turned itself off and the orange light started flashing, now its stuck that way and i can't turn it back on. I know this likely means the monitor is dead but i just thought i'd see if any of you fw900 experts might know if its fixable or not. Thanks for any info!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top