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24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.
- Thread starter mathesar
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Sony Windas
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I hope you don't mind if don't check my email for some time, I try to answer PMs best I can when I know I have them though.
I've become a bit of a display freak, and I find it entertaining to read theories of why this or that display has this or that flaw or feature.
Yeah, I also have the slightly zoomed screen, I maybe loose 4-3 pixels over the edge of the screen (I have the screen geometry so it fills EVERYTHING) while it is doing the 'bright warmup'
Also, when varying the amount of white on a line, it slightly changes the size of the line by 4 pixels or so. (not exactyl a mesurement, I guess I should use length, or percentage of orginial length)
Xweebie, the emusicraft guy, was trying to come up with a fix for this, he monitored the voltages on the tube during the 'bright warmup' and found none of them change as the tube warms up.
Now, that the bigger tube (FW900) warms up slower is interesting, has everybody noticed this?
No idea, maybe the bigger tube has more stray air molecules to ionize?
I wonder what CRT plants sony has. I bet all these PC CRTs come from some a different set of plants, or are made using some different processes. For one thing, the dot pitch on the computer CRTs is much smaller, so there's got to be a different plant making the face.
The reason I've been suspecting the CRT, besides Xweebies results, is that there are Sony CRTs with electronics made by other manufacturers, such as Nokia. These have also shown a slow warmup and brightness problem.
Even people who don't have the windas port have Sony FD trinitrons with the brightness problem.
Additionaly, the Sony memo mentioning the problem said to completely replace the MCU. Originally I thought this was confirmation that it was a software bug.
However, if you send one of these things in for official sony repair, you're likely to be told that it has a bad tube. This has happened to atleast two people.
This info, with what Xweebie said about the voltage during the warmup, and that orginially he had heard of repair guys replacing the Flyback, doesn't leave me entirely sure that it is a software bug.
That's good, it's about time people can see what more can be done with DAS and an RS232<>TTL cable. I really think it should be offered, as I'm sure some people have not heard of it. I wasn't saying you couldn't do tweaks with their cable, I was saying that less than a year and a half ago, there was no other way to do tweaks than to buy their cable and email them your .dat for adjusting.
Orignially the emusicraft customer was only able to upload/download .dat files, and windas, though it could be downloaded from various palces, was not operable without a myriad of .dlls and a security dongle.
Some versions of Dos das were operable, but, it was an involved and undocumented setup to make it recognize the newer monitor definitions.
Therefore, the only way to tweak the CRT in those days was via email with a $10 charge. The cable itself in those days was still being refered to as proprietary sony ECS, rumored to use an I2C bus,
thankfully, somebody brought it to the atention of the thread that it was just common RS232<>TTL, as mentioned in the DOS das archive.So, after having my head pulled out of the sand about what the cable really was, I tried get around the security dongle of windas, as dos DAS didn't have the newer models easily available. The cable was easy to build with a set of 5 RS232<>TTL chips and caps bought for 4$ and 3$ shipping. After MPUing the monitor(I had thought factory defaults would look good, no need to backup?
), I was forced to recalibrate the thing from scratch (DOH! ) and after finishing that, I decided to make the howto detailing how to get windas and tweak for free. Windas was not originally included in the emusicraft deal, as seen here.I wanted to make this very clear, as 35$ is enough to buy a working, used monitor off craigslist, and I'm sure there are many like myself who can't justify spending that much on a workaround. And though it's largely not an issue thanks to the recent spread of information, $10 and the hasslef of an email back and forth for each to adjust only the G2 was not going to save tons of these monitors from the dump. (The most fixes have been done by resellers, who had been contemplating what to do with palettes full of monitors they had refered to as 'bleached'.)
I'm not saying it's dead or anything !
I was just wondering what caused this whole bright warmup with the 30-45 minute waiting time.
Most CRTs I see are slightly dim during the warmup, wheares on these Sony's , retrace lines are visible.
Warmup litteraly means warmup. To heat the cathodes so they emit more electrons.If this were the only property of the CRT that changed, it'd have a dim warmup.
Xweebie has confirmed no voltages are changing during the warmup (unless , maybe the HV is changing across the tube, and I'll be darned if that is regulated by software) , so,
what could the Sony techs who wrote the memo mean by 'inital drift of the CRT'?
What properties of the CRT drift so that the screen becomes dimmer? Cathode heat could'nt be it because that would be going from dark to bright.
I'm glad I'm not the only one concerned about this.
Xweebie has said that he doubts a problem so widespread could really be component failure.
Whatever it is though.... it's still really annoying as it ruins low intensity pixel quality.
You say your ancient g400 has the symptom? Is it a flat trinitron? I don't know if any of the older curved trinitrons have the problem.
That was my bet untill I heard that Xweebie found no voltages changing during the bright warmup. I previously thought it was some kind of 'warmup compensation' gone wrong.
Asuming the 'brightness problem' is actually Sony's 'feature' for aging, it's not helping much with contrast. And it kills focus too. Maybe that's just an effect of bigger spot sizes... hmm.
Also, the convergence/geometry goes very slightly off from what it was when it was new. Thank goodness that's adjustable.
Besides, I don't recall one person saying that their G2 value was changed by color return, or anything else for that matter.
And, (If I don't already sound like a broken record), this problem is happening on non-sony electronics with sony tubes. Maybe the tech was liscened to Nokia? But then, the whole OSD is different...
Personally, I've noticed that brightness isn't even really what increases.
A better word for the prolem would be NOISE.
I've noticed that, if you put your monitor back to it's default .dat, you will see that lower intensity pixels, like grays and colored shades just 1-17 or so values above black are not visible, even though the monitor is displaying gray where it should be black.
Then, if you turn up the brightness, along with a brighter gray 'haze' over everything you can start to see lower intensity pixels.
If this were an audio amplifier, it would be like listening to a song where fainter sounds are drown out by a bacrground noise.
Lowering the G2 silences the noise, but also puts a damper on everything else.
So in order to see those lower intesity pixels again, you have the G1s open wider, which I assume you do via the CUTOFF adjustements (which seem to be more centered on haveing the right proportion of voltages ot get white at cutoff) and the Brightness controll, which I think puts a bias on all the G1s so that they are open wider.
Doing this enough so that lower intensity pixels can be seen though.... brings back the haze/noise again. Maybe the brightness controll is also adjusting the G2 bias... not sure.
It's certainly not a 'grey pedestal', as is described on sites that advise you about adjusting your brightness controll.
The lower, just above black, valued pixels don't ride atop the gray pedastal, instead they are obscured by it. On other monitors without the flaw though, grey pedestal is a an acureate description.
What does the contrast controll adjust? It seems to have no effect on the noise, I'm guessing it just adjusts the signal amplifier (which adjusts the G1 openess, 0 should be black, 255 the brightest white, perhaps all the way open for highest contrast?).
What can be done to change the gamma curve of the tube? It seems my tweaked trinitron has too steep a curve. It starts out really low, not climbing much, then it seems to blow all it's available contrast in the upper signal range.
I don't think adjusting the video cards signals is a good idea, as it's compensation is static, and won't change as the monitor warms up,ages, or if you change contrast or brightness.
It's refreshing to have such an active thread about actually optimizing trinitron CRTs, rather than just making them usable. On the some other threads, everything seemed to be about making your CRT usable just long enough untill quality LCD prices really hit rock bottom. On this thread, people actually seek out performance CRTs to supplement their LCDs.
Has anyone tried the GDM-F500? I've heard a lot of plobems about it, but asuming it was flawless, it would be the highest dot pitch/ focus display in existence. Not suprisingly, people say it its too dim, as that is the contrast/spot size tradeoff.
Too bad it couldn't fit HD at 1920 × 1080,
, still, it'd be interesting to hear about what people think about it's display of 1600 × 1200, as it would be able to resolve all the pixels (I hope.... I forget the numbers, should work it out). I'm sure it could sync to 2048 x 1536 like the P1130 and other 4:3 monitors, but, it probably can't horizontally resolve that many pixels.Thanks for the replies!
Sony Windas
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This happens all the time to Sony CRTs which are suspectible to the brightness issue. Even ones that are not tweaked. It happens without any bright screen provocation on monitors where the brightness issue has advanced far enough.
It usually means the ABL_SHUTDOWN or some other diagnostic failure was triggered and the monitor doesn't want to turn back on. This has happened to me many times before. Hopefully, the same reason it happened to you is the same reason it happened to me.
Use windas to access the failures dialog precedures->failures.
Just checking the failures should clear them, consider using a lower DRIVE_MAX, a lower ABL_MAX, or a higher ABL_SHUTDOWN. ABL_SHUTDOWN is an X-ray protection measure for when the average brightness of the screen exceeds some value (such as, a high contrast max white screen, maybe a flash of a bomb going off in a game?).
Ofcourse, that advice asumes the failure was ABL related. It may have been another failure. The failures dialog sometimes falsely reports failures, so don't take it too seriously. The blinking light is a good sign, it usually blinks a code specified in the service manual (get a copy of this on the web).
Hope the problem was just an an ABL_SHUTDOWN trigger. Whatvere it was, you can atleast get it to turn on again via windas.
Lord of Shadows
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During the middle of the game I noticed that the black areas on the sides of my monitor started to get larger. I thought nothing of it and just adjusted them back to normal with the vertical/horizontal adjust settings. I dont recall if it was a map change or not but at some point it just lost its picture (like it was off).
Thanks for the reply and advice! i will post back after i get the cable and try windas. Sure hope it can be fixed.
Blazestorm
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I really want a second FW900... does anyone have any idea besides craigslist / ebay ?
I got my first one off craigslist but not sure if I can find another one as easily...
I got my first one off craigslist but not sure if I can find another one as easily...
Blaze, search Froogle. I just bought mine off ebay. It looks like a reseller got a bunch in from an office. These are just used, and not refurbished. There is also a reseller on the web selling refurbished monitors with a 6 month warranty, but they are much more expensive. You can also buy the ebay monitors and get a 2 year warranty from Square Trade for $35. Mine was shipped terribly, but the tube works and I love it. $375 with shipping. I'm thinking of buying another because when this one goes I may not be able to find a good CRT. Now I need to read this WHOLE topic to learn how to tweak it.
Blazestorm
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Haha, I'm hoping to snag one for closer to $200.
I've seen a couple going for $175 buy-it-now on ebay with local pickup only... just across the country from me...
I've seen a couple going for $175 buy-it-now on ebay with local pickup only... just across the country from me...
SJetski71
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Found some inexpensive degaussing wands on ebay. They can be used on any CRT tube screen from what i understand, TV's and monitors etc. Otherwise you can search for keywords: degauss, degaussing coil, degaussing wand or degausser.
Figured i'd post it here since this thread has the largest number of crt users, myself included. Heck i may even buy another monitor tonight from some local fellow liquidating dozens of larger crt's, some brand new in the box, no FW900's i don't think though
Figured i'd post it here since this thread has the largest number of crt users, myself included. Heck i may even buy another monitor tonight from some local fellow liquidating dozens of larger crt's, some brand new in the box
, no FW900's i don't think though Can anyone here help me w/ that cable to fix the issues w/ FW900?(i bought the $35 cable) I followed all the instructions but when I run WinDAS i get this error "ASTRO SG is not used, Please check configuration. ASTRO SG Communication ERROR. ASTRO SG Timing setup Error." I'm running it under WindowsXP and plugged the cable to serial port of the computer and the cable's light is on(meaning it's connected properly).
I can't figure out what the problem is, am I supposed to use WinDAS under Windows98?
edit: got it to work
I can't figure out what the problem is, am I supposed to use WinDAS under Windows98?
edit: got it to work
I have two of these monitors that I purchased on Ebay over the years. Both now have some issues.
The first one will suddenly start to loose focus and get fuzzy at random times. If I turn it off then back on, it is clear again but it may get fuzzy again a few minutes later. This does not happen all the time, but when it does it keeps repeating this many times in a row.
The second one has very sharp text and has the better display, but its problem is that it will randomly shutoff. Pressing the power button off and then on again will bring it back to life, but it will usually shut down again after a few minutes.
I wish I could have both of them fixed because neither problem seems to be anything major, but I hate the idea of hauling these to a shop to ultimately be told that they can't be fixed. Any ideas what the problems might be based on these symptoms? Would you recommend a fix or scrap them?
The first one will suddenly start to loose focus and get fuzzy at random times. If I turn it off then back on, it is clear again but it may get fuzzy again a few minutes later. This does not happen all the time, but when it does it keeps repeating this many times in a row.
The second one has very sharp text and has the better display, but its problem is that it will randomly shutoff. Pressing the power button off and then on again will bring it back to life, but it will usually shut down again after a few minutes.
I wish I could have both of them fixed because neither problem seems to be anything major, but I hate the idea of hauling these to a shop to ultimately be told that they can't be fixed. Any ideas what the problems might be based on these symptoms? Would you recommend a fix or scrap them?
There are at least two other people who have been having this problem (I'm one of them). Others have described the problem on other CRTs. I noticed that this only happened within a few hours of turning on the monitor. So, the solution for me was to just leave the monitor on (turn off power saving and run a blank or mostly black screen saver like the default WinXP logo one). I believe the other person suffering from this problem had similar results and came to the same conclusion.
Now it never happens. Unless I turn the monitor off for a few hours and let it cool down. One thing I've noticed though is that after several "pops" in and out of focus, my monitor will actually give a loud snapping/zapping sound and then pop into focus and stay that way. Though, I've seen it stop having trouble in less dramatic fashion as well.
I think I recall reading in this thread somewhere that this can be fixed via Windas and is related to brightness or contrast being too high and tripping some safety value. I may be wrong, but I think you can raise the "safety value" threshold higher.
ThEMighTyTh0R
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Well I guess I'm #3 then. It happens to my monitor but only while its warming up... after the 1st 30 - 40min or so it doesn't happen anymore. The "popping" part worries me, it doesn't sound good and I hope it doesn't damage anything.
SJetski71
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I'm probably wrong since the FW900 is an entirely different monitor than what i've had...BUT.... from what i remember a "popping" noise often forshadowed the death of a CRT monitor, sometimes a monitor would pop for weeks and other times it would take many months. In other words i'd look into a fix before events play themselves out.
The only problem is searching for the right info on the web. Info regarding CRT's is often so old that they've been deleted or archived out of most forums, making info hard to come by. Hopefully others here can help, or maybe the info is already in this thread (?). Might have to get creative with your search search terms such as "crt popping noise" or "crt fix" etc etc etc.
Not trying to scare you or anything, just wanted to give a friendly heads up (hopefully i'm wrong).
Good luck either way
My original FW900 started to "pop" around three years of age or so. Best explanation I could find is that some build up was causing arcing inside the monitor.
So I left the monitor on for a couple of days straight, hoping the build up would burn itself out. Maybe I just got lucky, but no popping since...
So I left the monitor on for a couple of days straight, hoping the build up would burn itself out. Maybe I just got lucky, but no popping since...
just picked up 2 A7217A from rad recycling. Both excellent! First one appears to have really no setup issues at all. This 2nd one. I'm not so sure about, altho the first is going to be shipped out to a buddy, and I didn't really do much testing on it.
Anyone suggest a guide to setting this thing uP? this thread is huge :s
Only a couple glaring issues currently. It appears to have some ghosting, and the focus just doesn't seem there. I think i know the issue to this though perhaps. They gave me this hugely long 10ft vga cable. :s I guess its obvious that I should dump this and get something else shorter. This probably fix my ghosting and perhaps focus issue? The focus issue I speak of is the text just doesn't quite seem to pop, its a tad blurred.
I did have to adjust the landing in the bottom left when i first hooked it up. There was a purple spot in the bottom left.
Anyhoo, as for how to set this thing up right, color levels/gamma all that stuff. Any suggestions?
Anyone suggest a guide to setting this thing uP? this thread is huge :s
Only a couple glaring issues currently. It appears to have some ghosting, and the focus just doesn't seem there. I think i know the issue to this though perhaps. They gave me this hugely long 10ft vga cable. :s I guess its obvious that I should dump this and get something else shorter. This probably fix my ghosting and perhaps focus issue? The focus issue I speak of is the text just doesn't quite seem to pop, its a tad blurred.
I did have to adjust the landing in the bottom left when i first hooked it up. There was a purple spot in the bottom left.
Anyhoo, as for how to set this thing up right, color levels/gamma all that stuff. Any suggestions?
None of my FW900s look good with the two VGA cables I have on-hand. I suspect my cables suck. But I'd bet quite a bit that the ghosting would go away with a quality BNC cable or a very high quality VGA one. When I use my VGA cables on mine, there is really bad ghosting on anything above 800x600. But when I use BNC, it's all good!
Others have said they can't detect a difference. But I suspect their VGA cables are of higher quality than mine.
Others have said they can't detect a difference. But I suspect their VGA cables are of higher quality than mine.
SJetski71
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Ya, i can verify that there can be huge differences with different VGA cables running at high resolutions. A friend of mine once had a big box filled with every vga cable imaginable, and offered to give me as many as i would like. I then selected over a dozen different cables, ranging from 3ft to 6ft long, ramped my monitor rez up to 1920x1440, and began testing each one. Most cables fared well but 4 or 5 of them displayed artifacts ranging from ghosting, double vision, poor focus, blurry text etc etc. All cables were fine up to 1280x1024 btw, it's the higher resolutions that revealed their weakness.
It seemed the best cables overall in my test were the shorter, thicker, better insulated ones that had ferrites on both ends. One of the worst was a thin crappy 6ft dell vga cable.
It seemed the best cables overall in my test were the shorter, thicker, better insulated ones that had ferrites on both ends. One of the worst was a thin crappy 6ft dell vga cable.
The ferrite cores are the way to go. I was also going to recommend something like a thick cable with ferrite cores on both tend to blargman.
Blazestorm
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Bah, there's one local but he's asking $450...
Haha, not sure if I should go for it or not...
Haha, not sure if I should go for it or not...
Heh. That's not actually a bad price if it's the first owner and in pristine condition. I just recently paid $320. But then had to rent a friggin' SUV to haul the thing the 100 mile distance to my house. So, all told, I spent about $450 to get my "pristine spare."
We had hauled my first one in my wife's Jetta's trunk. Won't do that again! Had to squeeze it in and then I heard it rock a few times as we drove.
Now my heart doesn't skip a beat when my primary FW900 does something odd. Because I've got a pristine one in even better condition waiting in my closet.
I think you might be confused.Why not just bust that one out and use that instead? They aren't going to last forever, so spoil yourself while you still can..
If I use them both at the same time, then they're both going to be wearing out simultaneously. I'd essentially only have a functioning FW900 for as long as the longest-lived one lasts. Whereas, if I use one until it fails, and then use the other, I'll have FW900 bliss that mugh longer (the sum of each monitor's lifespan combined, rather than just the one that makes it the longest). Blazestorm
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Haha, I'm using them for dual-monitors... if they last me 3 years I'd be happy...
Blazestorm
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Heh. That's not actually a bad price if it's the first owner and in pristine condition. I just recently paid $320. But then had to rent a friggin' SUV to haul the thing the 100 mile distance to my house. So, all told, I spent about $450 to get my "pristine spare."
We had hauled my first one in my wife's Jetta's trunk. Won't do that again! Had to squeeze it in and then I heard it rock a few times as we drove.
Now my heart doesn't skip a beat when my primary FW900 does something odd. Because I've got a pristine one in even better condition waiting in my closet.
Btw I have a Mazda3 and I put it in the front seat, I put all my monitors in the front seat w/ the PC below it... if anyone is riding along with they sit in the back
The FW900 barely fits... but it fits...
I also buckle the monitor in... I'm a geek but... it works
Question: I have an fw900. My current video card has 1 VGA and 1 DVI. Currently I'm just using the VGA.
However, I want to upgrade my video card to a 7600 gt. Those cards only have 2 dvi outs. I'm wondering how do I go about hooking up the monitor. I'm guessing I'd buy a DVI to VGA adapter. Do I want to go DVI -> VGA or DVI -> BNC? Would I want to buy an adapter or a cord? Are some higher quality than others? I don't want to loose any picture quality. Any quality cable brands would be appreciated. Has anyone had problems doing this? Thanks.
However, I want to upgrade my video card to a 7600 gt. Those cards only have 2 dvi outs. I'm wondering how do I go about hooking up the monitor. I'm guessing I'd buy a DVI to VGA adapter. Do I want to go DVI -> VGA or DVI -> BNC? Would I want to buy an adapter or a cord? Are some higher quality than others? I don't want to loose any picture quality. Any quality cable brands would be appreciated. Has anyone had problems doing this? Thanks.
I've had really bad luck with DVI-to-BNC. I've tried two cables from two different vendors. Both were either miswired or of poor quality.
You're probably best off by just getting a DVI-to-VGA adapter and then get a standard (and widely available) VGA-BNC cable. That's what I use (having been repeatedly foiled as described above in trying anything different). No complaints!
You're probably best off by just getting a DVI-to-VGA adapter and then get a standard (and widely available) VGA-BNC cable. That's what I use (having been repeatedly foiled as described above in trying anything different). No complaints!
Blazestorm
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Isn't that kind of useless?
You're going digital to analog, - analog to digital.
The point of BNC is it's a digital input... no compression/loss of quality.
Honesty w/ the VGA mine looks great, I'll try a BNC if I ever find a high quality DVI - BNC cable...
You're going digital to analog, - analog to digital.
The point of BNC is it's a digital input... no compression/loss of quality.
Honesty w/ the VGA mine looks great, I'll try a BNC if I ever find a high quality DVI - BNC cable...
I think he's just referring to using the analog signal from the video card's DVI-I out. (Rather than a DVI digital to analog converter box...)
No, you're going analog to analog. There is no conversion taking place. Nor should there be.
A DVI-to-BNC cable is only theoretically superior because it eliminates the DVD-to-VGA adapter (which is not a converter, just a pin adapater). But, if you don't think BNC makes a difference, then certainly the resistance or impedence added by a single adapter will have no effect.
SJetski71
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Actually those little adapters are not too good at handling high resolutions, the symptoms are similar to a cheap vga cable, blurry text etc. A converter cable is definitely the way to go (least resistance).No, you're going analog to analog. There is no conversion taking place. Nor should there be.
A DVI-to-BNC cable is only theoretically superior because it eliminates the DVD-to-VGA adapter (which is not a converter, just a pin adapater). But, if you don't think BNC makes a difference, then certainly the resistance or impedence added by a single adapter will have no effect.
Note my reply to Hurin above. Definitely get the adapter cable, and not the little adapter, seems many of them can't cut it for high resolutions. The DVI-to-VGA adapter cables are well proven so you might want one of those.
Fair enough. I'm not sure I was clear that I was saying that someone who doubts the efficacy of BNC would probably also then not have a problem adding one more point of (probably insignificant) signal degradation via a DVI-to-VGA adapter.
I'd certainly like to leave the signal as unmolested as possible. Hence my two attempts to obtain a decent DVI-to-BNC cable. But both cables that I received had problems (one from Pacific Custom Cable. The other from Blue Jeans Cables). So I just gave up and went back to the adapter and my standard BNC cable. I've gotta say, I can run at 1920x1200 at 95Hz with absolutely no indication of singal degradation. Crystal clear.
I note that the link provided is a DVI-to-VGA cable. Surely a DVI-to-BNC would be even better! If only I could get one that works!
I'd certainly like to leave the signal as unmolested as possible. Hence my two attempts to obtain a decent DVI-to-BNC cable. But both cables that I received had problems (one from Pacific Custom Cable. The other from Blue Jeans Cables). So I just gave up and went back to the adapter and my standard BNC cable. I've gotta say, I can run at 1920x1200 at 95Hz with absolutely no indication of singal degradation. Crystal clear.
I note that the link provided is a DVI-to-VGA cable. Surely a DVI-to-BNC would be even better! If only I could get one that works!
Retraction: The last DVI-A-->BNC-5 cable I received (from Blue Jeans Cable) does indeed work. A couple of the cables were in unfamiliar order (if not quite non-standard).
Instead of R-G-B-Blk-Gray, it was R-B-G-Gray-Blk. So, I had to swap not only the blue and green connector order when connecting the cable, but also the last two "synch" connectors. It now works perfectly.
Keeping this in mind, I highly recommend the DVI-to-BNC cable from Blue Jeans cable. It's super-thick and high quality.
I'm not sure if I can detect a difference between this and my old BNC cable. But removing that DVI-to-VGA adapter can't be a bad thing. If I had to guess, I'd say there's a slight improvement in clarity and text sharpness. But I wouldn't be able to swear to it.
H
Instead of R-G-B-Blk-Gray, it was R-B-G-Gray-Blk. So, I had to swap not only the blue and green connector order when connecting the cable, but also the last two "synch" connectors. It now works perfectly.
Keeping this in mind, I highly recommend the DVI-to-BNC cable from Blue Jeans cable. It's super-thick and high quality.
I'm not sure if I can detect a difference between this and my old BNC cable. But removing that DVI-to-VGA adapter can't be a bad thing. If I had to guess, I'd say there's a slight improvement in clarity and text sharpness. But I wouldn't be able to swear to it.
H
I still have the original VGA-BNC that came with the monitor and I can't tell the difference in sharpness. I tried this 6 years ago when my monitor was still brand new and I remember going back to VGA instead of the BNC bec. Windows doesn't recognize the monitor or something. Does the DVI-BNC digital or is still analog?
There's no way this monitor can do digital. DVI has some "legacy pins" that carry a standard analog VGA signal. That's all the DVI-to-VGA adapters (or DVI-to-BNC5 cables) do. . . they just carry that signal out and connect it to the proper pin outs.
I'm a bit disappointed though, though the cable works, I now notice that there is some vague ghosting that isn't present when I use my standard BNC cable via DVI-to-VGA adapter. So, it seems that in this particular case, more points of connection is better.
I'm a bit disappointed though, though the cable works, I now notice that there is some vague ghosting that isn't present when I use my standard BNC cable via DVI-to-VGA adapter. So, it seems that in this particular case, more points of connection is better.
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Blazestorm
Supreme [H]ardness
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- Jan 17, 2007
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I'd buy one in a heartbeat... lol...
If someone wants to buy one and ship it to me I'll give you $300
(Not 100% serious)
If someone wants to buy one and ship it to me I'll give you $300
(Not 100% serious)