spacediver
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 2,733
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Enter the Abyss..... lol They are very Dark indeed. That G2 adjustment is very good at making sure your contrast is at its best. If you turn out all the lights in the room then it is almost impossible when loading a black image on the screen to tell if my FW900 is even on. I had someone comment here saying that the KURO Plasma was maybe darker, but after comparing my VT60 to My FW900 there is not contest. The CRT all day wins in this area after calibration.
the CRT blacks are SO Black, that the 'power on' light of the CRT is the only thing visible.
I'm looking at the blacks on above screenshots, and is it ME or can you actually SEE the difference between where the CRT screen is at, compared to the bezel and the crt surrounding?
Must be my imagination, but I think I see a black rectangle where the CRT is that is even BLACKER then the darkness on the photo
Only a CRT can do those black levels..
I think if I look really hard, that I can actually see the contours of the Bezel of the CRT, just thanks to the LIGHT the LCD screen gives off.
Actually, with a black image a CRT looks exactly the same on/off. Obviously the blacks on/off are in fact really dark green because of the phosphor but at night it's black-black for the eye, thats why end plasmas and OLEDs show better blackier blacks.
Just look at the "black" of a CRT in off state.
That's not a properly calibrated CRT.Actually, with a black image a CRT looks exactly the same on/off. Obviously the blacks on/off are in fact really dark green because of the phosphor but at night it's black-black for the eye, thats why end plasmas and OLEDs show better blackier blacks.
Just look at the "black" of a CRT in off state.
I had a KRP500M and that was not my experience at all. You can expose a photo where black looks truly black for any display.I had my Kuro and FW900 in the same room for a couple years, The black levels on the Plasma were reaallly close to the point the difference was only really noticeable when looking at a solid black screen, I took this shot off the plasma in a completely dark room: http://i.imgur.com/LNjIwxc.jpg
I had a KRP500M and that was not my experience at all. You can expose a photo where black looks truly black for any display.
Here's a photo from a projector which has a higher contrast ratio than the Kuros, but black level is definitely not that good when you see it in person. Still noticeably gray to my eyes.
My experience with the Kuros is that the black level was quite easily noticed if watching the TV in a dark room, and not only on black screens.
The bigger problem was the awful PWM driving of the display, resulting in terrible motion handling, lots of image noise (dither), and really bad posterization near black.
It also clipped low-level shadow details when set to produce its darkest black level. (not something that could be fixed with the ISF controls, despite what many people claimed)
I have a 280x but like I said i'm waiting for the HDMI 2.0 ramdac moome is making. My main goal is I wamt to know if its possible to get this running in 1920x1200 @100hz, so I was going to use the 750ti I have since it has a built in ramdac unlike the 280x, untill the ramdac(moome) is finish, I might consider the new nvidia depending but I dont want to buy a card and then have nvidia purposely cripple it like the 780's .I think I am going to just get a really nice shielded VGA cable off ebay.
I though it didn't, I havnt used it yet to be honest, and I only saw Dvi's and hdmi. I bought it then my Motherboard and CPU shorted out and ive been on something else for the time being. Since am4 is coming out this year, I was waiting to see how it was(am4) before I just bought another am3+(dead platform), and I really didnt feel like buying a intel board and cpu until I know how am4 is.I thought only the 290's (and 390's and up) didn't have DAC's? Surely the 280x does?
SAPPHIRE Radeon R9 280X DirectX 11.2 100363VXSR 3GB 384-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card - Newegg.com
Looks like there's a DVI-I port on this particular card. I suspect the other ones have it too.
That's a really nice job with the calibration, bramabul5353. I thought I did ok but it's not even close to what you have it at. I had this feeling when I was doing calibration that my G2 values could have easily been lower. I still got about another 6 months to go before I redo the calibration on this baby and hopefully by that time, I have a gaming pc. For right now, im using my laptop as the pc and the monitor for light gaming sessions and general
Is it normal to have brightness at 14 and contrast at 90-95 to get okay contrast/black levels? especially after ti's warmed up for hours playing movies? mine is supposed to be calibrated ...i think. maybe it needs to be calibrated for each source?
Here's a thread on Badcaps that may be of interest: Dell P1110 21" CRT repair thread - Badcaps Forums I don't know if this is exactly what you mean, but it's very similar. (I read through it a while back, as I remember there's a circuit in the GDM Trinitrons that does what you're describing.)Alright folks, I have a bit of a proposition for you guys.
So, it's actually a well-known fact in the Sony CRT projection crowd, that Sony projectors have an auto-rgb circuit that regulates the RGB levels of the projectors. Most enthusiasts modify their projectors and remove this circuit, as it ruins black levels... The effect of this circuit sounds eerily similar to our "overbright" problem. The circuit over-compensates and raises black levels and just doesn't look good.
Because I don't have a ton of time this weekend to connect my monitor to WinDAS, would one of you be willing to hook your monitor up and view your back up files? What I want to do, when I have time (because the Artisan is next in line for a calibration), is to check the last calibration I did with it and compare THAT G2 level to the G2 level when I make a back up. If I'm right, and I think that I could be... I think that these monitors have an auto-RGB circuit like the projectors, that raises the G2 level. That's just a thought.
Because really - if the G2 adjustment truly IS going whack, then a G2 of 100 on one day should look different than a G2 of 100 on another day. Yet, I've calibrated my screens frequently enough that I've noticed that I usually hover around the same G2 area when calibrating them.
Oh and by the way, the broadcast monitors also have an auto-rgb function, though it's not called that. It's defeatable with a press of a button though. So I think I may be onto something... I won't know unless someone can take a crack at it though.
Wouldn't you need me to read off my G2 today, and then, say, a few months later?
Yea I suppose it's a good idea to have a backup file. I do have one come to think of it, it's just that I don't recreate them each time I calibrate.
I think your'e fine. It probably needs to be calibrated because once it's all said and done, WinDAS sets your monitor at Brightness = 31 and Contrast = 90 for the FW900. For the CR-1 monitors (F520 and Artisan and the like) it sets it to Bright = 50 and Contrast = 85.
So inky blacks, on a warmed-up, calibrated monitor, will occur at Brightness = 31 for the FW900 and Brightness = 50 for its little siblings.
Alright folks, I have a bit of a proposition for you guys.
So, it's actually a well-known fact in the Sony CRT projection crowd, that Sony projectors have an auto-rgb circuit that regulates the RGB levels of the projectors. Most enthusiasts modify their projectors and remove this circuit, as it ruins black levels... The effect of this circuit sounds eerily similar to our "overbright" problem. The circuit over-compensates and raises black levels and just doesn't look good.
Because I don't have a ton of time this weekend to connect my monitor to WinDAS, would one of you be willing to hook your monitor up and view your back up files? What I want to do, when I have time (because the Artisan is next in line for a calibration), is to check the last calibration I did with it and compare THAT G2 level to the G2 level when I make a back up. If I'm right, and I think that I could be... I think that these monitors have an auto-RGB circuit like the projectors, that raises the G2 level. That's just a thought.
Because really - if the G2 adjustment truly IS going whack, then a G2 of 100 on one day should look different than a G2 of 100 on another day. Yet, I've calibrated my screens frequently enough that I've noticed that I usually hover around the same G2 area when calibrating them.
Oh and by the way, the broadcast monitors also have an auto-rgb function, though it's not called that. It's defeatable with a press of a button though. So I think I may be onto something... I won't know unless someone can take a crack at it though.
did you complete it without help?
If you get a USB-TTL converter cable you can use WinDAS to check for error codes. I have one that had an issue that may or may not be relevant to yours, it involved a bad transistor that would overheat, causing the monitor to shut down automatically as designed. AFAIK there are bleeder circuits for all the HV components as per TCO'99.Hello, just picked up one of these the other day. The last owner stated it would turn off after it got wamred up (30 minutes or so) any thoughts ? Took the case off and there is allot of crudy dust, want to continue disassembly but am worried about stored electricity, is there a bleeder resistor on the anode cap for these ?