24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Use a uniform white backgroud (Other colors might help too). Use checkemon to do this if you know no other way.

Also, make your room pitch black dark, and turn off your flash.
 
Looks like it's sold already. I put it up on craigslist and it was bought within a couple hours... the guy is sending me a certified check from his bank(which takes 2-5days) so I guess I'll see how it goes.
 
helmutcheese said:
Going by peeps comment sin this thread I would say the BNC is no better its a Placebo effect esp as most have long thin unshielded tails.

The max for 1920x1200 is 96HZ for the Monitor to be in range.
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Well for my eyes it is not a placebo effect. Text is now as clear as my lcd. As good as it gets as far as i'm concerned.

In my former life I would set up corperate meetings and concerts and would set up alot of computers and large plasmas and bnc was always prefered over vga. Would also travel over longert distances without degradation. Also they are all shielded. Data travels over the Center pin and the and the outer screw on ring is the shield. Bayonet Nut Connector FTW!
 
Dead-Eye said:
1536 x 960 @120 Hz is a neat resolution. Horizontal Scanning Frequency Required (With Estimated Retrace) is 118.2 KHz, the monitor allows 121 KHz in theory.
Please tell us about your results with the nvidia 3D vision :)

This is a box that supports 1080p/72Hz but it costs $335 : http://www.curtpalme.com/EXT-FULLHD.shtm
HDFury2 has, afaik, gamma correction and an optional BNC connector.
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I'm doing 1920x1080@100hz with a Tri-sli 285's and it is cool. I think it would really shine at 120hz haven't had time to mess with that though and I want the highest rez.. I have to set the depth at the minium and it looks good in left4dead and cod4 and ut3 although the names over peoples head pops out in a weird way and i might be sitting to close to the monitor.
 
Condorman said:
Well for my eyes it is not a placebo effect. Text is now as clear as my lcd. As good as it gets as far as i'm concerned.

In my former life I would set up corperate meetings and concerts and would set up alot of computers and large plasmas and bnc was always prefered over vga. Would also travel over longert distances without degradation. Also they are all shielded. Data travels over the Center pin and the and the outer screw on ring is the shield. Bayonet Nut Connector FTW!
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The cable you link to is the same cheap/nasty generic unshielded at tails that has been mentioned many times in this thread.

If your happy then I'm happy for you but your the only 1 in this thread that has said for sure they see it better.

I have no issues with text on mines at 1600x1000@110HZ (My chosen Desktop RES so DPI is ok for Websites).

There is a Sharpness/Focus pot inside the monitor you can get to from the top air grill.
 
helmutcheese said:
The cable you link to is the same cheap/nasty generic unshielded at tails that has been mentioned many times in this thread.

If your happy then I'm happy for you but your the only 1 in this thread that has said for sure they see it better.

I have no issues with text on mines at 1600x1000@110HZ (My chosen Desktop RES so DPI is ok for Websites).

There is a Sharpness/Focus pot inside the monitor you can get to from the top air grill.
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Every rgb cable I have ever seen in my life has those kind of ends. And they are shieded. Each of the five rgb and sync cables only carry siginal over the center conductor. The thing you twist to make the conection contains the sheild. And this cable has the bigest ferrite choke I have ever seen on a cable which would do more to eliminate any RFI or EMI.
 
Hi Everyone,

I just got the HP OEM FW900 from Ebay today, and I have a problem with ghosting/halos around edges of objects. For example, I see a faded image of my mouse pointer on the screen, and if you look at the edge of a window, you can see this also.

In full motion video, it is also quite apparent, it looks like my old CRT TV that has faded out.

However, it is not consistent. When I first plugged it in, the colors were a bit off, but there was no ghosting. After the image correction, all was well. A few hours later I turned on the monitor and the problem happened again. This time the image correction did nothing, but after another 30 minutes (~45 mins after initial power-on) the problem went away. It seems each time I turn on the monitor, this problem occurs, even after an image restore.

Is this a problem with the monitor, poor VGA cable, etc, or is this merely an issue that goes away after the tube has a chance to warm up? I am joining two VGA cables with a female-female connector as the one that came with the monitor was too short to reach my tower. It happens regardless of the resolution or refresh rate. It is a 2002 model and it looks to be in great shape otherwise. I have a brightness of 45 and a contrast of 85 and I am running at 9300k color.
 
It is quite likely that the joining of the VGA cables is causing this. With the cables plugged in try fiddling with the VGA connectors on the video card, female-female connector, and monitor and see if you can make the problem go away when it happens. In any case, first thing I would do is buy a single long well-shielded cable as this is the most likely fix.

If replacing the cable doesn't fix it and you're lucky, it may just be a problem with the VGA input, and using BNC instead would solve the problem.

If you are connecting it to an old graphics card, a laptop, or some sort of onboard video, that could also cause this.

Worst case scenario, there is something wrong internally, and it is in need of repair.
 
I would temporarily move the monitor or the PC and try without the second VGA cable.
Make sure that every connector is screwed really tight. What helped in my case was to use the other DVI on the videocard and a different DVI-VGA Adapter.

My experience on the matter is:
- Streaking is a matter of cable quality
- Ghosting is a matter of cable length and quality of connectors and signal generator/receptor
So if you see only ghosting, I think the problem lies in the adapters and connections and maybe, but quite unlikely, in the videocard. But I would try the other output.
 
I had the same problem with Ghosting when I first got mine, it ended up that my cable was not connecting properly to my video card and getting a new cable from mono price fixed the problem.


Also everyone saying BNC cables are unshielded is wrong, they are shielded as every thing travels over the center wire and the thing you twist on is part of the shield (as has been stated many times but apparently people don't get it).
 
Uberbob102000 said:
I had the same problem with Ghosting when I first got mine, it ended up that my cable was not connecting properly to my video card and getting a new cable from mono price fixed the problem.


Also everyone saying BNC cables are unshielded is wrong, they are shielded as every thing travels over the center wire and the thing you twist on is part of the shield (as has been stated many times but apparently people don't get it).
Click to expand...

Don't get it !.

That photo many have put up of a VGA to BNC is Generic crap.
The tails are far too thin and exposed and any shielding inside these tails will be minimum.
The only person in this complete thread (if you actually read it) claiming he can see an improvement for 100% cert is "Condorman".

I have tried one and it made zero difference to anything bar make monitor harder to set up as OS cannot read its profiles like VGA and DVI.

If you are feeling non lazy read this complete thread and you will see photos/link to higher quality VGA to BNC and DVI to BNC leads, they have less of the tails exposed and these tails are a lot thinker.

This is analogue we talking about where thicker cables are better.

Its funny I have zero issues and the ones thinking they know better are having nothing but issues. ;)
 
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I connected the monitor to the computer directly with a single cable and the ghosting is gone, thank you! I am getting a little ghosting on the left edge of the screen (the other edges are fine), is this a convergence issue?

Do you think I would get any improvement if I used the BNC output instead of the VGA?

Also, how do you get the monitor to save your screen settings for a particular resolution/refresh rate combo? I have my desktop at 1620x800 or something like that (16:10 ratio) and once I turn off the computer for the day and come back to it in the morning I have to reset my settings, as they were not saved. I've tried searching in this thread but as there are 200+ pages I figure it would be easier to ask the question again.

I love these CRTs!!! I have a 65" 1080i Toshiba rear projection CRT TV downstairs with a DVI input and that thing kicks butt for Blu-ray and other HD sources, far better than any LCD, Plasma, or DLP that I have seen. We also have a 4:3 CRT projection TV upstairs that we used to use before we got the HDTV, and we had a 1980 Sony CRT TV that is still working before that, so I've always been used to the best, so to speak. I don't want to go anywhere else!

Thank you for your help once again!
 
Dead-Eye said:
I would temporarily move the monitor or the PC and try without the second VGA cable.
Make sure that every connector is screwed really tight. What helped in my case was to use the other DVI on the videocard and a different DVI-VGA Adapter.

My experience on the matter is:
- Streaking is a matter of cable quality
- Ghosting is a matter of cable length and quality of connectors and signal generator/receptor
So if you see only ghosting, I think the problem lies in the adapters and connections and maybe, but quite unlikely, in the videocard. But I would try the other output.
Click to expand...


What exactly do you mean by "streaking"? Is it anything like what I've been trying to describe a page or 2 back?
 
I just bought another one of these from ebay. I'm on it right now and it has a really bluish look to everything(I have it on RGB color). It's hooked up through BNC but my other one was through VGA. Anybody else have this problem and solved it?
 
UnclePauly09 said:
I just bought another one of these from ebay. I'm on it right now and it has a really bluish look to everything(I have it on RGB color). It's hooked up through BNC but my other one was through VGA. Anybody else have this problem and solved it?
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check your bias and gains in color control. i have my bias for all set to 50 and gain at 85 for all.

adjust accordingly of course depending on ur monitor.
 
UnclePauly09 said:
I just bought another one of these from ebay. I'm on it right now and it has a really bluish look to everything(I have it on RGB color). It's hooked up through BNC but my other one was through VGA. Anybody else have this problem and solved it?
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Most likely, the issue with this particular monitor is that one (or more) of the guns is(are) going bad and cannot compensate for the others. When this happends, then the monitor will exhibit a color cast. The CRT needs white point balance adjustment, but if during the procedure, the CRT emission tests "low" and any of the gun(s) test "bad", it will never achive proper white point balance, and the CRT has may have reached the end of its life.

However, if the guns and CRT test "good", then the problem is in the A1 board of the monitor, where some resistors and/or transistors may have gone bad and they need to be checked then replaced.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
Haste266 said:
check your bias and gains in color control. i have my bias for all set to 50 and gain at 85 for all.

adjust accordingly of course depending on ur monitor.
Click to expand...

They are all set to stock for RGB

LAGRUNAUER said:
Most likely, the issue with this particular monitor is that one (or more) of the guns is(are) going bad and cannot compensate for the others. When this happends, then the monitor will exhibit a color cast. The CRT needs white point balance adjustment, but if during the procedure, the CRT emission tests "low" and any of the gun(s) test "bad", it will never achive proper white point balance, and the CRT has may have reached the end of its life.

However, if the guns and CRT test "good", then the problem is in the A1 board of the monitor, where some resistors and/or transistors may have gone bad and they need to be checked then replaced.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
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You scared the crap out of me! I was almost sure what you described was my problem but then I kept thinking "why would the guns go bad on a barely used monitor", but then again shiz happens so I was believing it. I almost feel like a complete ass for not trying this first and I'm sorry for jumping to conclusions but all I had to do was run the "image restore"(actually twice cause the first run didn't get rid of all the blue, most of it though) and it fixed it. I wonder if this kid sold it to me thinking it was defected? His dad even told me he bought it for him brand new in 03 and the kid barely used it cause he was always gone in college. Or could it still have a gun problem and "image restore" is just compensating?

Btw, the kid has a friggin G520 that was barely used too, wtf what kind of parent just spends that kind of money on something that will never be used? I'm buying it in a week for $100

*Added - I just tried VGA after running BNC all day and there is in fact a difference contrary to what some say. BNC strengths are better color, text. BNC weakness is BAD convergence, PC doesn't recognize the monitor. VGA wins for me although the quality is not quite as good, bad convergence is bothersome and I like my games to have all the res's available.
 
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i would love to be able to buy on of these, but i have zero chance of picking one up in here in New Zealand.
 
Guys, how is the support for this CRT under Windows 7 RC?

Have you been able to find a way to set the correct refresh-rates for all resolutions, and achieve max res?

I'm having troubles going past 1600x1200 on my 21" CRT. =(
 
just ordered a windas cable!

ive had this monitor for more than 3 years now. it is about time i treat it right...
 
UnclePauly09 said:
They are all set to stock for RGB



You scared the crap out of me! I was almost sure what you described was my problem but then I kept thinking "why would the guns go bad on a barely used monitor", but then again shiz happens so I was believing it. I almost feel like a complete ass for not trying this first and I'm sorry for jumping to conclusions but all I had to do was run the "image restore"(actually twice cause the first run didn't get rid of all the blue, most of it though) and it fixed it. I wonder if this kid sold it to me thinking it was defected? His dad even told me he bought it for him brand new in 03 and the kid barely used it cause he was always gone in college. Or could it still have a gun problem and "image restore" is just compensating?

Btw, the kid has a friggin G520 that was barely used too, wtf what kind of parent just spends that kind of money on something that will never be used? I'm buying it in a week for $100

*Added - I just tried VGA after running BNC all day and there is in fact a difference contrary to what some say. BNC strengths are better color, text. BNC weakness is BAD convergence, PC doesn't recognize the monitor. VGA wins for me although the quality is not quite as good, bad convergence is bothersome and I like my games to have all the res's available.
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Image restore is a "temporary" adjustment solution but it does not fix the issue. If you perform a WinDAS fix, you'll notice that the monitor's true image will be displayed as soon as you click on the "white balance" tab. You'll see the color cast immediately.

How do you know if the Sony CRT has had very little use? The only way to find out how much usage in on a Sony CRT is by performing an emission test by using a Sencore CR7000, and then a white balance adjustment in WinDAS, which both check the luminance (emission) of the CRT. If the CR7000 gives you a "low" emission result, then the tube will have very low luminace and it will have extensive use. If in WinDAS, the CRT adjustment for luminance (while adjusting the white pattern) is between zero (new) and 100 (not that much use), then you have a CRT with "not much use". Any adjustments between 101 to 255 (washed out) are indication of a CRT with extensive use.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
Image restore is a "temporary" adjustment solution but it does not fix the issue. If you perform a WinDAS fix, you'll notice that the monitor's true image will be displayed as soon as you click on the "white balance" tab. You'll see the color cast immediately.

How do you know if the Sony CRT has had very little use? The only way to find out how much usage in on a Sony CRT is by performing an emission test by using a Sencore CR7000, and then a white balance adjustment in WinDAS, which both check the luminance (emission) of the CRT. If the CR7000 gives you a "low" emission result, then the tube will have very low luminace and it will have extensive use. If in WinDAS, the CRT adjustment for luminance (while adjusting the white pattern) is between zero (new) and 100 (not that much use), then you have a CRT with "not much use". Any adjustments between 101 to 255 (washed out) are indication of a CRT with extensive use.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
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Well, I'm going on past experience with CRT's. I've had a brand new shadowmask one and before I bought this new fw900 I had an fw900 from AIT. My old fw900 was not as bright and colorful as this new one also the new fw900 looks very close to what my shadowmask monitor looked like but even brighter/ more colorful. The old fw900 was not washed out by any means but this one man the colors just pop/sparkle it's crazy how good it looks. I imagine the ones you sell look even better I would not hesitate to buy one if I had the money, they are worth every frickin cent.

*Here's a pic of the new screen*

006-1.jpg
 
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Uncle Pauly a nice find indeed! I am sure Uncle Vito knows what he is talking about but in my opinion if auto calibration fixes it then it is good enough for me. I have 5 of these monitors and when I purchased them a few seemed to be off on color until I auto calibrated. Most likely the kid did not know anything about this option and has run it this way for years.

To me the easy way to tell the use of a monitor is exactly how you are checking. The color is beautiful and vibrant, the convergence is good, the focus is clear, most likely you got yourself a good monitor with hopefully years of life left.

I have been running 10 IBM (Trinitron) 21" monitors in a commercial cybercafe for 5 years straight and the monitors never being turned off for 12 hour days. I have lost 3 of them in the past month. I purchased them all used to begin with and each of them had a hue in my opinion of one color or another that was not quite on. I auto calibrated each of them and it removed the problem. These monitors ran great for the 5 years and during this last year they were starting to show some colors that would not come out. One got a strong blue tint and another a green tint. This tint or hue would not come out with Auto Calibrate so I know that the monitors will now need to be taken in for repair by someone like Uncle Vito but for the price I paid I will just recycle them. I paid a $150 each for them when they were selling new for $900 so I am pleased that I got 5 years out of them.

I have replaced them with Samsung LCD widescreens and nobody seems to complain about them being washed out over the CRTs. I always found it funny when people asked me why we did not go with the nice new LCDs and instead went with old technology. I also always enjoyed when gamers came in and praised us for having such excellent CRTs with refresh rates in the 150Hz range. I will miss these CRTs but for space and heat reasons we are going to LCDs.
 
When I connect the WinDAS cable to the monitor. The monitor goes blank. Is this supposed to happen?

Presumably not as it means I can't perform dynamic convergence etc.

Perhaps I'm not attaching the cable correctly. It's not exactly easy to connect. It's the RTS and CTS lines that aren't to be attached to the monitor correct?
I'm right in think the top line to be connected should be GND and the bottom should be RX?
 
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it is not a bad fine. It is decent. why dont you just invest in an lcd. It is cheaper and lighter on the desk. it is just a thought.
 
sharky2001 said:
it is not a bad fine. It is decent. why dont you just invest in an lcd. It is cheaper and lighter on the desk. it is just a thought.
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because this is a CRT thread and not an LCD thread. crappy first post to start out with there sharky.
 
I recently purchased a FW900, and I am going to be hooking up the Playstation 3 to it with the HDfury 2, would ineed to also purchase the Gamma X converter? If I don't get the Gamma X does that mean the PS3 games gamme will be way off and crush the blacks??

Anyone have the PS3 hooked to the FW900? Could you state how you connected it and if you notice issues with the gamma???
 
Sinizar said:
Because LCDs are inferior to CRTs in almost every way.
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I wouldn't put it that way.

Rather, LCDs are inferior to CRTs in many ways. To be perfectly fair, LCDs have a lot of advantages too.

You just have to weight them out and get what suits you better. Or get both, like me. :D
 
shurcooL said:
I wouldn't put it that way.

Rather, LCDs are inferior to CRTs in many ways. To be perfectly fair, LCDs have a lot of advantages too.

You just have to weight them out and get what suits you better. Or get both, like me. :D
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True, everyone will have their own opinion on which is better for them. For me the LCD is a short list of things that are better:

Sharper Text
Lighter
Uses less energy
Saves on Deskspace

For all the other reasons the CRT is king. I also have both a CRT and LCD. The Gateway 22" Widescreen LCD is used for LAN Parties and tutorials since it is set off to the side of the CRT. My 24" FW900 CRT is used for everything else. I once had two FW900 setup but they took up a little to much deskspace so I keep the Gateway off to the right and rotated for Portrait viewing of web pages.
 
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