24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Yeah we have a few rather old CRTs still hangin' around at work, they work just fine, especially the two 20" ones that are used mostly for digital design type work. Those are like 5 or 6 years old.

We had one that was only recently replaced that was around since the 80s (black and white CRT) that has been on almost 24/7 for the past 10 years at least. Before then I don't know what kind of use it got. It served as the monitor for our phone system's computer.
 
bigddybn said:
The 15+ year old CRT monitors that are on 24/7 in a few of my dispatch centers would disagree with you.
Click to expand...

Agreed

CRT lifespan from what I understood was more like 20 years with average use. Even abused many monitors run 10-15 years. Part of it is luck though like with any electronics.

There's about a dozen Digital / Compaq / etc 21" monitors that are used for monitoring by our 2nd level VMS support. They're plugged in with RGBHV cables into some DEC VMS systems and run 24/7 for the past decade or two displaying monochrome blue terminal sessions for monitoring. Burned in, that is :D

Sure, they had one start blipping out about once every 6-9 months in the last few years. But most of them are from the 90s. The plastic is yellow from age. They've just started moving to a Windows / LCD solution recently though since the monitors have become very hard to replace.
 
Some folks were saying 3 to 5 years for color critical work...

(Don't know if that accounts for the image restore function and what can be done with windas and such though...)
 
bigddybn said:
The 15+ year old CRT monitors that are on 24/7 in a few of my dispatch centers would disagree with you.
Click to expand...
If they have lasted that long they are NOT the average PC CRT monitor that has been on the market in the past 10 years. They are probably monitors designed for commercial applications and I'm they didn't cost $199.
I'm talking about the average computer monitor. There are different grades of CRT tubes and they very greatly depending on application.
Believe me I know. You can design a CRT to last 20 years in fact it was very common to get decades of service out of a TV set. But that is the past. You do not see that kind of quality going into PC CRT monitor who's expect life is only a few years. Competition drives prices down, so the manufacture cut quality.
 
I think as long as you don't use a no-name brand, and at least an aperature grille,
the CRT will last quite a while. Presence of BNC connectors also seems to indicate higher quality in my experience, and detachable cables as well. Those el-cheapo shadow mask CRTs tended to have molded VGA cables only.

I gave my friend my ancient Mitsu Diamondpro 87TXM (15 or 17" CRT, Diamondtron) and it still works like a champ. It's quite yellow with age. My current screens - Mitsu Diamondpro 2070SB (22" Diamondtron) and FW900, are still going strong. I just had to do the brightness fix for the FW900 using the Windas cable. (I had a bit of a struggle with it at first - it turned out the guy who sold me the cable reversed the RX/TX wires.)

Before that I had various NECs and other aperature grilles that never crapped out on me.
The only CRT I had crap out on me was some no-name brand shadow mask.
It literally started sparking fireworks and then white smoke - dead.

I think the aperature grille CRTs are generally built to better standards.
Back in CRT's heyday, other people kept complaining
about the damping wires, but honestly I never saw them
unless I consciously looked for them.
 
Is it just me or is anybody else astonished at how old and how "popular" this thread is given it's for a CRT - no, scratch that, it's for the only CRT that really matters, I should and do say. :)

3.5 years in the making, 4651 posts (this one is 4652 I believe, one got deleted someplace)... absolutely amazing.

And while I've never seen one first hand, I'd still love to own one just because. :D
 
Joe Average said:
Is it just me or is anybody else astonished at how old and how "popular" this thread is given it's for a CRT - no, scratch that, it's for the only CRT that really matters, I should and do say. :)

3.5 years in the making, 4651 posts (this one is 4652 I believe, one got deleted someplace)... absolutely amazing.

And while I've never seen one first hand, I'd still love to own one just because. :D
Click to expand...

Not really I suppose...

Still one of the finest displays ever made and which become massively more accessible in the used market...

Still wish that CRTs continued and that we had gotten to see, say, a GDM-FW920 or such, with uniform pitch and a silent relay, or whatever it's successor would have had, but here we are, with one of the best displays still, having been released in 2000...
 
Joe Average said:
Is it just me or is anybody else astonished at how old and how "popular" this thread is given it's for a CRT - no, scratch that, it's for the only CRT that really matters, I should and do say. :)

3.5 years in the making, 4651 posts (this one is 4652 I believe, one got deleted someplace)... absolutely amazing.

And while I've never seen one first hand, I'd still love to own one just because. :D
Click to expand...

Wub my FW900. One of the best pieces of tech I've bought for $200. At the time a 22"-24" LCD was a few hundred more so it was even a bargain at the time. If mine died, I'd probably go hunting for another one.
 
The FW-900 only makes me wish they made a non-projection CRT that was 40+ inches and had to be moved by a forklift :cool:

In my setting, It would need it's own magnetic shielding for it's own protection, and for everything else's protection.

I am seriously thinking about buying a second FW-900 to use as parts to get my dead one up and running.
 
I don't really think a monitor has to have an aperture grille just to have the fact it has higher build quality. The ViewSonic I had used before my FW9010 was probably built around 1998. It was used in my moms office when Isuzu was still making SUV's. She brought it home around 2000, and I had used it as my main monitor since. It was the M70B model. One of those things you would call as "old realiable", at least for me. :)

Anyway, I just hope this one lasts just as long as my former monitor.
 
Aperture Grill (AG) v. Shadow mask (SM) used to be a point of some debate. Most people on here preferred AG if I remember right. AG tubes tend to be brighter and have a little better color. People used to call me a heretic for liking SM better. At a given price point SM usually had a finer dot pitch than AG, so if you got a good SM screen you'd get a sharper picture. Generally speaking and assuming the same price point SM was a little better for text and noticeably better for stuff like CAD work, while AG was better for photos and video. At the time the difference didn't matter much for games as the graphics weren't nearly as good as they are now, though arguably a somewhat less sharp screen was better for gaming since pixels getting smeared together produces sort of a free AA effect. Jaggies are less visible if pixels are smeared into each other. Since I mostly wrote code, did "regular" computer stuff (email, web, office, etc.), and gamed, SM was better since it made text look a little better.

The good shadow mask screens were the first to be killed off by LCDs. High end AG screens stuck around a while since they were the best for photo/video work and perhaps still are. SM was preferred for CAD, etc. and was a little better for text, but LCD is even better than SM for those, so the premium SM tubes got killed off.

That said, there were a lot of POS SM screens out there and AG didn't really come in anything less than "ok." Since most people don't drop $800 on a screen, it's understandable that they got the idea SM was crap. I had a Dell P1130 screen (Sony mfg, Dell's cheapest 21" monitor) for a while at work I'd call a POS, but it was still a lot better than a lot of the cheap shit that was out there.

I've got a 21" Hitachi CM823F SM screen I bought in 2001 for $800 and change sitting next to my FW900. Text on the Hitachi looks better and everything is noticeably sharper. If I remember right the Hitachi has a .21mm dot pitch, while the FW900 varies from .23 to .27 at the edges. Also, the Hitachi is 8 years old and still works about as well as it did when it was new, while the FW900's flyback died in 2007 & cost me $300 to fix. I figured I'd be better off spending $300 to fix one with perfect glass and a good tube than gamble on a replacement since the shop guaranteed their work & wouldn't charge me if they couldn't fix it. Of course the FW900 is still my main display since I only really use that machine for gaming these days. I've got a laptop w/ an LCD I use for "work."
 
Just bought a B grade Sony model monitor from Accurate IT yesterday and man was I pissed from the time I opened it to the time I turned it on and even for close to an hour after I turned it on. I thought I had paid $425 for 100 lbs. of overbright, overused burnt out junk. That had to be the longest transition from a frown turned upside down I've ever had in my life. An hour later though and I can finally rest comfortable knowing I've got one of the best monitors ever created by mankind. Holy crap you guys said it would take a half hour to warm, mine took a whole hour! For that last half hour I was in god mode ready to destroy life.

Anyway, there are still some problems but they are minor compared to what I first experienced. I thought "B" grade meant there wouldn't be a whole lot of damage to the screen but mine has about 6 light scratches that are 2-4 inches in length and are positioned in the top middle section of the screen. I don't see them in games or movies but when web browsing with a lot of white on the screen I get the rainbow crap and it is pretty annoying. Is taking the glare screen off still the only option? They are *very* light scratches.

The bezel is horrific. It looks like wherever they got it from it was just laying on its face and half of the paint is missing. Anybody know where I can get the same color paint to cover it up?

I want to make sex with it, but I'm afraid I may lose an appendage in the process. Not much help you can give me but it's a problem nonetheless.

I'm going to scour this thread but if anybody has some quick tips(or long drawn out tips I'm game) for making this monitor a more enjoyable experience by all means let me hear it. I'm holding onto this beast until it's last breath.

Oh yeah, I've been a lurker to this forum and this thread in particular for over a year but with this purchase I just had to register.

- Paul
 
1) If the scratches bother you then you will need remove the plastic coating, to do this you need remove case to get Bezel off (info in this thread somewhere).

2 ) As you will have the Bezel off you can sand and paint it (I would do it black as its better for a displays), again there is info on this thread about what type of paint etc to use.
 
UnclePauly09 said:
Anyway, there are still some problems but they are minor compared to what I first experienced. I thought "B" grade meant there wouldn't be a whole lot of damage to the screen but mine has about 6 light scratches that are 2-4 inches in length and are positioned in the top middle section of the screen. I don't see them in games or movies but when web browsing with a lot of white on the screen I get the rainbow crap and it is pretty annoying. Is taking the glare screen off still the only option? They are *very* light scratches.
Click to expand...

Try Vaseline. For the scratches, not the sex.

Try to work a tiny amount into each scratch then carefully wipe away any excess. I've heard some say it helps, it's easily removed anyway.
 
Is Windas the only way to get perfect or near perfect convergence? I haven't messed with the menu convergence because it seems to just shift the whole screen in one direction. Is there a service menu option for fine tuning?
 
A few days ago i also bought this screen. It really is nice. Black is black and white is white. It's not too bright, like my 2 19" samsung tft's are. The colours are real, no candy shop fake colours. I'm happy with my screen.

Just one thing i noticed: text isn't that sharp. My TFT displays real sharp text. On my CRT the text appears a bit blurry, maybe it's normal? How sharp should text be on the CRT? When i compare this forumpage on my CRT, with my TFT, then there's a big difference.

I work at 1920x1200 85Hz.

I read about the focus pots, but i'm only going to do that when you guys can assure me that text has to be near the sharpness of my TFT. I'm not that keen on dismantling my precious :p And i don't want to risk my life for something that's not worth enough ;)
 
TheGreatPornholio said:
A few days ago i also bought this screen. It really is nice. Black is black and white is white. It's not too bright, like my 2 19" samsung tft's are. The colours are real, no candy shop fake colours. I'm happy with my screen.

Just one thing i noticed: text isn't that sharp. My TFT displays real sharp text. On my CRT the text appears a bit blurry, maybe it's normal? How sharp should text be on the CRT? When i compare this forumpage on my CRT, with my TFT, then there's a big difference.

I work at 1920x1200 85Hz.

I read about the focus pots, but i'm only going to do that when you guys can assure me that text has to be near the sharpness of my TFT. I'm not that keen on dismantling my precious :p And i don't want to risk my life for something that's not worth enough ;)
Click to expand...


it can be done with the right sized screwdriver without taking the bezel off. if you have never done the focus pot adjustment, dont be skeered...its very very easy. a fatal mistake is completely avoidable if you have the right sized screwdriver. :D
 
Haste266 said:
it can be done with the right sized screwdriver without taking the bezel off. if you have never done the focus pot adjustment, dont be skeered...its very very easy. a fatal mistake is completely avoidable if you have the right sized screwdriver. :D
Click to expand...
Yes, i read it indeed. But it looks scarier to me than to remove the whole bezel. Without removing the bezel, it's hard to see wether you're on the pots, or poking a large capacitor :eek:

I think when i've got the time, i'm going to try it. Just to get the hang of it, i'll let it power off for a day. Then try to remove the sticky stuff by turning the pots while the screen is still off. Then i got a bit of feeling for it.

But about the text. Should it be crystal clear, or blurry?
Just as a note: my eyes are very good and i immediately see every detail that's wrong... so for others it might be the normal sharpness, where it's blurry for me. I'd like to see an indication if it's possible. Maybe some experiences from people in this thread who have the screen for a while.
 
The Sony GDM-F series has holes specifically punched in the EMI shield to reach the focus pots which are on the flyback located immediately on the other side of the EMI shield. Other less sophisticated CRTs are sitting there with guts exposed to the world to reach these pots.

On one hand, I find it pretty darn simple. On the other, you can't be careful enough warning people that they MIGHT hurt or kill themselves when messing around inside of a CRT.

Personally, I'd rather scare you out of doing it yourself if you aren't sure you know what you're doing than have you "go for it" and get fried.
 
TheGreatPornholio said:
But about the text. Should it be crystal clear, or blurry?
Just as a note: my eyes are very good and i immediately see every detail that's wrong... so for others it might be the normal sharpness, where it's blurry for me. I'd like to see an indication if it's possible. Maybe some experiences from people in this thread who have the screen for a while.
Click to expand...


ive owned my monitor for around 2 1/2 years now and i wouldnt say my text is "razor sharp", but it sure isn't "blurry" either. its completely readable from corner to corner. i dont have to "try" to read text on my monitor...i dont know how else to explain it really...

im using 1920x1200@85hz also. i game at 2304x1440 if at all possible and never have a problem reading text in games either. i wish i could take a picture of my screen to show you how readable it is...

i work on a printing press btw. i have experience finding whats wrong with things...i also calibrate my own home theater equipment, just so you know i also have good eyes.
 
I just picked up the HP branded FW900 from the computer recycling center I volunteer at (Free Geek Vancouver.) I got it essentially for free as it's huge and had a few issues.

Okay, more than a few. The case is banged up, the screen's scratched, out of focus, the colours were all wrong, the blacks weren't black and the convergence was off.

A few hours fiddling in the OSD got the colours fixed and the convergence pretty close. And right now I have it apart on my desk to tweak the focus and remove the anti-glare film. But the problem with that is it makes the gray blacks problem even worse, since these tubes are naturally a bit on the gray side even when turned off. The film darkens everything, allowing for deeper blacks. Has anyone found a replacement yet? I'm going to call some TV repair shops and see if they have anything that might help me.

Also, if anyone has another of these to sell in the Vancouver area I'd love to hear about it. Especially the sexy SGI-branded one.
 
Jax184 said:
I just picked up the HP branded FW900 from the computer recycling center I volunteer at (Free Geek Vancouver.) I got it essentially for free as it's huge and had a few issues.

Okay, more than a few. The case is banged up, the screen's scratched, out of focus, the colours were all wrong, the blacks weren't black and the convergence was off.

A few hours fiddling in the OSD got the colours fixed and the convergence pretty close. And right now I have it apart on my desk to tweak the focus and remove the anti-glare film. But the problem with that is it makes the gray blacks problem even worse, since these tubes are naturally a bit on the gray side even when turned off. The film darkens everything, allowing for deeper blacks. Has anyone found a replacement yet? I'm going to call some TV repair shops and see if they have anything that might help me.

Also, if anyone has another of these to sell in the Vancouver area I'd love to hear about it. Especially the sexy SGI-branded one.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you might be having "grey blacks" with or without the anti-glare coating. The anti-glare coating (or lack thereof) should stop being a perceivable issue in a fully dark room. So if you still have grey blacks even in favorable (dark) lighting conditions, you're probably suffering from the G2 issue and need to set it lower via Windas software and serial cable connector. Of course, sometimes "Image Restore" in the main OSD can also help with black levels (though it doesn't change G2). You might try setting brightness and contrast much higher than usual and then try "Image Restore" again.

Best,

H
 
Even with the monitor OFF the screen is gray, not black. I can also see my reflection quite strongly. It's very distracting. The original film served to both reduce reflections and darken the whole image. It's like looking through an anti-static bag. Hence why I want to find some new film for it.

As for when it's running, the blacks get grayer the more white is being displayed on the screen. I'm not sure what would cause it to change like that.
 
Jax184 said:
Even with the monitor OFF the screen is gray, not black. I can also see my reflection quite strongly. It's very distracting.
Click to expand...
Mine is gray as well when off. That's going to be the case whether it has the coating or not.

The original film served to both reduce reflections and darken the whole image. It's like looking through an anti-static bag. Hence why I want to find some new film for it.
Click to expand...
I don't mean to pee on your idea. But my understanding is that you should be able to compensate for the lack of anti-glare coating and attain good colors and black levels as long as there are no other issues with the monitor. But judging by your description below. . .

As for when it's running, the blacks get grayer the more white is being displayed on the screen. I'm not sure what would cause it to change like that.
Click to expand...
This again sounds like you're suffering from the classic "over-brightness" issue that washes out black levels. The easiest way to fix this is to regularly go into the monitor's service mode via Windas and a serial cable and lower its G2 voltage setting. You may have to do this every few months as the problem tends to recur. And yes, you will eventually run out of room in the G2 setting. At which point it's time to either trash the monitor or consider the "hardware fix" of soldering resistors somewhere (don't recall the details and don't know much about it. . . but googling turned stuff up on this long ago).

I seem to recall someone creating a thread in the Displays forum about resurfacing monitors. Or it might have been a post in this uber-thread. But I'm personally skeptical that the results will be effective. Good luck though, whatever you decide!
 
Hurin said:
Mine is gray as well when off. That's going to be the case whether it has the coating or not.
Click to expand...

Oh I know, but it gets significantly worse with the coating taken off. And since the monitor can't "produce" black like it does light, this gray is as dark as it can ever go.

I should take a picture showing how bright my reflection is, as that's just as big of an issue.

As for the G2 I was already planning to adjust it, but I haven't put together the cable yet.
 
weird...my monitor doesnt look grey when turned off...
maybe a little, if a lot of light is shining directly on it...
but in a darker room, it looks black.
 
It always looks a bit grey when there's light in the room. With a fully dark room, the screen is black when it's turned off. It's just the light that hits the screen.

I'd like to hear about the results you get after fiddling with the focus pots :) If you get good results, i'm confident about the use of it and i'll try it too. With of course, post the results here after doing so.
 
light is lethal ;) at least for a good black level.

Well, we already discussed that it doesn't make sense to photograph the monitor for a demonstration of its quality.
However, I made these pictures and couldn't resist:

crtdemo1.jpg


crtdemo2.jpg

(picture from flickr.com)

Although I have the screen for about a year now, I wasn't aware that the black level can be SO good! Well there was little light in the room, black cloth on the opposite wall and a tweaked G2 value. Anyway, the brightness setting was 20, contrast 90 in these pictures. Resolution 1536x960 / 96 Hz in the first one (my usual desktop setting), 1920x1200 / 85 Hz in the second.
Exposure Time 1/10 sec and no image manipulation. in fact you couldn't even tell where the screen starts and where it ends :cool:
CRT FTW
 
Dead-Eye said:
light is lethal ;) at least for a good black level.

Well, we already discussed that it doesn't make sense to photograph the monitor for a demonstration of its quality.
However, I made these pictures and couldn't resist:




(picture from flickr.com)

Although I have the screen for about a year now, I wasn't aware that the black level can be SO good! Well there was little light in the room, black cloth on the opposite wall and a tweaked G2 value. Anyway, the brightness setting was 20, contrast 90 in these pictures. Resolution 1536x960 / 96 Hz in the first one (my usual desktop setting), 1920x1200 / 85 Hz in the second.
Exposure Time 1/10 sec and no image manipulation. in fact you couldn't even tell where the screen starts and where it ends :cool:
CRT FTW
Click to expand...

hehe, nice.
 
Dead-Eye said:
light is lethal ;) at least for a good black level.

Well, we already discussed that it doesn't make sense to photograph the monitor for a demonstration of its quality.
However, I made these pictures and couldn't resist:

[pics]
(picture from flickr.com)

Although I have the screen for about a year now, I wasn't aware that the black level can be SO good! Well there was little light in the room, black cloth on the opposite wall and a tweaked G2 value. Anyway, the brightness setting was 20, contrast 90 in these pictures. Resolution 1536x960 / 96 Hz in the first one (my usual desktop setting), 1920x1200 / 85 Hz in the second.
Exposure Time 1/10 sec and no image manipulation. in fact you couldn't even tell where the screen starts and where it ends :cool:
CRT FTW
Click to expand...

Hmm, i'm not sure wether it's useless or not. I made two pictures with my digicam, in macro mode. One of my TFT and one of my CRT. I took a photograph of the same icon with text underneath it. You really can see the difference. It's not perfect, because my cam can't photograph it 100% right of course, but it gives a good idea. You can see what's the CRT and what's the TFT.
It's late now, so i'll put it online tomorrow. It's useless to photograph from a distance, but like 3cm from screen in macro mode, it's another story.
 
Hurin said:
At which point it's time to either trash the monitor or consider the "hardware fix" of soldering resistors somewhere (don't recall the details and don't know much about it. . . but googling turned stuff up on this long ago).
Click to expand...

This? ... Sony CRT brightness mod

I think this should be worked into the original post as it's really not that hard to solder.
 
that's got pretty nice resolution for a CRT, sony has always made good monitors though, even if they dont last too long.
 
Does anyone know how to get this monitor to work properly with Windows 7 (to get 1680*1050 and 1920*1080) and nVidia drivers?

Also, anyone have a link to a good WinDas cable? Itd be very much appreciated, my monitor black level sucks goats, if goats were gray.
 
akotlar said:
Does anyone know how to get this monitor to work properly with Windows 7 (to get 1680*1050 and 1920*1080) and nVidia drivers?

Also, anyone have a link to a good WinDas cable? Itd be very much appreciated, my monitor black level sucks goats, if goats were gray.
Click to expand...
I had a terrible time getting anything to work right with my FW900 and Windows 7 as long as I was connected via BNC cables. The original Beta build of Windows 7 seems to be overly aggressive in checking for proper PnP between the system and the monitor (which BNC can't transmit) and so would not allow any custom resolutions or non-standard ones. I couldn't get above 1600x1200 and no custom ones input by nvidia control panel would "stick."

The good news? This appears to be fixed in later builds. I can say for certain that it's fixed in build 7048 as I'm currently running that build @ 1920x1200 @ 85Hz.
 
My 40" LCD has been dethroned for a CRT with 21" of viewable area. :eek: The color, contrast and response time does not compare. You don't notice it when you only use LCD's every day. I was surprised about my level of amazement when I really saw how much better CRT really is. How had I forgotten? Here is the story of my return to the land of CRT.

I'm lucky enough to live locally to Accurate IT. With my recently re-sparked interest in the FW-900, I decided to go ahead and purchse two B-minus grade FW-9012 (HP FW-900's). Aaron in the ebay department (who was a real good guy to work with) allowed me to dodge the $200 in shipping charges and pick the items up myself. (I ordered them through ePay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/24-SONY-GDM-FW9...53356473QQihZ016QQcategoryZ3696QQcmdZViewItem) They do not offer the B-minus grade monitors on their website.

I had one before that was KIA. So I figured that if B-minus had horrible screen scratches, I would use the working parts from the new ones to get my dead FW-900 with a good screen up and running again.

In total, it took about 4 hours between purchase and pickup. They don't pre-prep these monitors to ship. They only prep them once they are ordered. They put them on a bench in the warehouse. First they check if it works properly. Second, the do an image restore. Third, the quickly clean the unit.

On a side note, the cleaner they use is kind of oily. This meant I had to do some extra cleaning on my screens to get rid of the oily streaks. As well, the oily residue on the cases meant I had to get an extra firm grip when moving these heavy beasts around.

When I went to receive the two monitors, I walked into their extremely dingy digs. You can tell these guys don't do anything presentable in their office. There's LCD monitors and various junk everywhere. The walls and floor look like they haven't been cleaned in 5 years. But, appearances aren't everything. It was the quality of the monitor that counted. And my expectations were very low.

For the price I paid, I was expecting I would have to junk the picture tube, and use the parts to get my old FW-900 up and running again. I was pleasantly surprised when Aaron wheeled out my two monitors. The screen's looked great, upon a quick glance before I put them in my car.

I got them home and cleaned them up, and started inspecting the screens. I was expeting to find all kinds of hair line scratches upon close inspection. I did NOT. In the luck of the draw, I got pretty lucky.

One screen was 100% perfect. The insides of this monitor looked clean, like the monitor was always run in a nice and clean environment.

The second had a fairly long scratch in the middle that goes no deeper than the anti-glare coating. You could tell by the dust in various places that this one had been in a pretty dirty environment. It would do some good for me to open it up and really clean things up.

The picture on both monitors was outstanding. I was very surprised not to have landing issues or any other geometry problems. Color and gamma was dead-nuts perfect. I did need to do some minor adjustment of convergence.

All in all, I got a much better product than what I expected to get from these guys. :)
Since this thread has been void of some good pictures for way too long, I'll post some. As others have stated, photographing these monitors really isn't any way to show off how awesome this these FW-900's are. My photos taken while watching "The Wire" will only partially show the awesome image quality of this monitor. The quality (or lack thereof) of my camera also won't help things.

01.jpg


02.jpg


03.jpg


04.jpg


05.jpg


06.jpg


07.jpg


08.jpg
 
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thanks man, that is good news, I'd love to transition off of vista eventually.

so what about those windas cables? where to buy? I don't want to build them myself, already tried once and failed.
 
Thats awesome Rock&Roll. Hope you enjoy the monitors as much as many of us do. And here's hoping it lasts many long, strong years. :)
 
Oh...Rock&Roll, here I am, a long time user of Sony GDM class CRTs, now trying to make piece with my 40" Samsung 65F LCD, and misspelling peace, and you have to shake things up... :)

22.5" viewable by the way.
 
Hehe. Yeah, I posted a few back that LCD's aren't that bad. And they aren't. But it's just that the FW-900 is soooo much better.

On another note. I now need to get my DVR hooked directly to this monitor. The PC is on the VGA port (because of EDID problems over BNC)

Has anyone used the HDFURY to go between a HDMI source and the BNC inputs on the FW-900? I'd need to go Source HDMI port --> HDMI to DVI-D cable --> HDFury --> VGA to BNC cable --> Fw-900. Has anyone ever done this before?
 
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