NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Today, I finally got tired of the temperature of my Core i7 4790K shooting up instantly to over 90 C under any load so I delidded it to replace Intel's thermal interface material (TIM). The grey Intel TIM is as hard as rock, but it is covering the entire CPU die. I didn't have a shop vice to pop the heatspreader off and a handheld clamp wasn't working so I resorted to using a razor blade to very carefully cut through the black adhesive. Patience was key. The edges at the top and bottom (in the photo) were easiest, starting in the corners.

Now I have to clean to remove the Intel TIM and the adhesive that holds the heatspreader in place. Hopefully, my CPU still works and my load temperatures will be much better in line with other NH-C14 results.

 
Sorry if this has already been answered or is just plain common sense.

The ODD option would mean you lose out on one of the 2.5" drives option correct?
 
The chasis is the same with both the ODD slot and without it. It just has the hole on top. If you decide to put in an ODD, then you miss out on space for two 2.5" drives, but there is plenty of room in the case for them anyway, like M.2.
 
Qrash said:
Today, I finally got tired of the temperature of my Core i7 4790K shooting up instantly to over 90 C under any load so I delidded it to replace Intel's thermal interface material (TIM). The grey Intel TIM is as hard as rock, but it is covering the entire CPU die. I didn't have a shop vice to pop the heatspreader off and a handheld clamp wasn't working so I resorted to using a razor blade to very carefully cut through the black adhesive. Patience was key. The edges at the top and bottom (in the photo) were easiest, starting in the corners.

Now I have to clean to remove the Intel TIM and the adhesive that holds the heatspreader in place. Hopefully, my CPU still works and my load temperatures will be much better in line with other NH-C14 results.

Click to expand...

Update: Reduced CPU temperatures!

Good news! I am seeing much lower temperatures now when I run the Prime95 Small FFT torture test. Before delidding my 4790K and replacing the Intel TIM my CPU temps were jumping instantly to 98 C and then maxing out at 100 C due to throttling. The Small FFT test seems to be the worst one for people with CPUs like mine. Now when I start the Small FFT test my CPU temperatures only increase to 72C and max out around 78C. That's a nice 20C decrease!.

TIM Application:

When I delidded my CPU I was disappointed to see that the Intel TIM was covering all of my CPU die. I had hoped that my high temperatures were due to improper coverage or application. Instead, it appears that the Intel TIM is just so dry and brittle as to be a poor TIM

For the replacement TIM I did not use any exotic liquid metal or diamond-based TIM. I was concerned about the replacement TIM lasting a long time, so I decided to use Arctic Alumina (not the thermal adhesive). The product website states:

During the CPU's initial use, the compound thins out to enhance the filling of the microscopic valleys and ensure the best physical contact between the heatsink and the CPU core. Then the compound thickens slightly over the next 50 to 200 hours of use to its final consistency designed for long-term stability.
​
Hopefully, this is true and my new TIM will last for years without drying out. Arctic Alumina is also completely non-conductive, so that's one less problem to worry about.

Basically, I followed Arctic's application instructions for this TIM and this generation of CPU. I tinted the underside of the heatspreader and applied a thin even layer on the CPU die, before covering the core with the heatspreader and latching closed the CPU socket. Next, I tinted the top of the CPU heatspreader and the bottom of the NH-C14. Next, I applied a line of Arctic Alumina on top of the heatspreader along the long axis of the CPU die. I mounted the NH-C14 fully and then removed it to confirm that the new TIM had spread evenly and that I had uniform contact. This was the case so I prepared the CPU heatpreader and heatsink one final time, applied fresh Arctic Alumina to the CPU heatspreader and mounted the heatsink for the final time.
 
Qrash said:
Update: Reduced CPU temperatures!

Good news! I am seeing much lower temperatures now when I run the Prime95 Small FFT torture test. Before delidding my 4790K and replacing the Intel TIM my CPU temps were jumping instantly to 98 C and then maxing out at 100 C due to throttling. The Small FFT test seems to be the worst one for people with CPUs like mine. Now when I start the Small FFT test my CPU temperatures only increase to 72C and max out around 78C. That's a nice 20C decrease!.

TIM Application:

When I delidded my CPU I was disappointed to see that the Intel TIM was covering all of my CPU die. I had hoped that my high temperatures were due to improper coverage or application. Instead, it appears that the Intel TIM is just so dry and brittle as to be a poor TIM

For the replacement TIM I did not use any exotic liquid metal or diamond-based TIM. I was concerned about the replacement TIM lasting a long time, so I decided to use Arctic Alumina (not the thermal adhesive). The product website states:

During the CPU's initial use, the compound thins out to enhance the filling of the microscopic valleys and ensure the best physical contact between the heatsink and the CPU core. Then the compound thickens slightly over the next 50 to 200 hours of use to its final consistency designed for long-term stability.
​
Hopefully, this is true and my new TIM will last for years without drying out. Arctic Alumina is also completely non-conductive, so that's one less problem to worry about.

Basically, I followed Arctic's application instructions for this TIM and this generation of CPU. I tinted the underside of the heatspreader and applied a thin even layer on the CPU die, before covering the core with the heatspreader and latching closed the CPU socket. Next, I tinted the top of the CPU heatspreader and the bottom of the NH-C14. Next, I applied a line of Arctic Alumina on top of the heatspreader along the long axis of the CPU die. I mounted the NH-C14 fully and then removed it to confirm that the new TIM had spread evenly and that I had uniform contact. This was the case so I prepared the CPU heatpreader and heatsink one final time, applied fresh Arctic Alumina to the CPU heatspreader and mounted the heatsink for the final time.
Click to expand...
Nice work!

I was surprised with the temp drop on mine... but it absolutely works!

Did you glue the IHS back down or did you leave it free floating?
 
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Chapeau said:
Nice work!

I was surprised with the temp drop on mine... but it absolutely works!

Did you glue the IHS back down or did you leave it free floating?
Click to expand...

I left it free floating. The socket's latch mechanism seems to press it down onto the die quite forcefully.
 
Quick question, can I use full ATX PSU with GTX1070 FE if I use a flex pci-e to lower the graphic card to the bottom 2 slots?
 
Necere said:
In principle yes, provided the PSU isn't longer than 140mm.
Click to expand...

I thought a 140 mm long ATX power supply (without modular cables) could be used with a long graphics card in the top slot. Wouldn't moving the card down one slot enable a longer PS to be used, up to 160 mm?
 
Qrash said:
I thought a 140 mm long ATX power supply (without modular cables) could be used with a long graphics card in the top slot. Wouldn't moving the card down one slot enable a longer PS to be used, up to 160 mm?
Click to expand...
Yes, you're correct. If you can find a non-modular 160mm long PSU with all of the cables exiting to the side of the GPU, it should fit with the GPU moved down a slot. I'd never recommend a non-modular PSU be used in the M1 though, on account of how excessive the cables are on an ATX PSU and how little room there is available. I'd say only do it if you're going to fully custom mod the cables to be much shorter/fewer.
 
Shottie said:
Finally finished up my M1 build. Got all my parts in except the Toxic cable because of the 8-10 week wait. NBD.

The Struggle

Full parts list can be found here:
Shottielol's Completed Build - Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 - PCPartPicker
Click to expand...
Sick. Your temps are amazingly low :\. But do you have those Noctuas smashing through air? Running at 2k RPM? My bottom fans in mine are 800 rpm noiseblockers, my D9L runs 2 92mm fans at 800-1500rpm variable, and the rear fan of the same type at 1000rpm. No intake on the side. Is the side intake perhaps your key to low temps (short of the delid).
 
Shottie said:
I haven't touched the fan profiles at all. Looking at hardware monitor, it says they're running at 1k rpm. I don't ever hear the thing with my headset on.
Click to expand...
Damn.. Hmm. My gaming temps in a 25~Celsius environment for CPU are around 65 for CPU 1.16v @ 4.2ghz on an i5. and GPU temps are 82 degrees x.x With a 1070. Might see if swapping in my GT AP-15's and running a low noise adapter on them will help..
 
Shottie said:
My game room is temperature controlled to a constant 20C. That probably helps me out a lot!
Click to expand...
Probably. I'm in Australia with a very poorly insulated room, we're heading into summer soon so playing games in my room increases temps a little bit as well.

I might change around my fans.. Keep the bottom 2 as is, but remove the front 92mm fan I have installed, and install a 120mm on the side as intake. Might help CPU temps if nothing else.
 
Shottie said:
Finally finished up my M1 build. Got all my parts in except the Toxic cable because of the 8-10 week wait. NBD.

The Struggle

Full parts list can be found here:
Shottielol's Completed Build - Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 - PCPartPicker
Click to expand...
Looks great!

Nice and clean - will run quietly and fuss free. love your keyboard too.


We have the same wallpaper atm... :whistle:

Totally agree with ReaperX22 - amazing temps. I'm in the same boat so the speak... dreading what summer will bring.
 
Qrash said:
I thought a 140 mm long ATX power supply (without modular cables) could be used with a long graphics card in the top slot. Wouldn't moving the card down one slot enable a longer PS to be used, up to 160 mm?
Click to expand...

An example of a full length GPU used in tandem with a full ATX 140mm power supply and dual radiators can be viewed here: [URL="https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase-m1-a-crowdfunded-mini-itx-case-updates-in-first-post.1717132/page-285#post-1040811798"]Post 11361[/URL] and [URL="https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase-m1-a-crowdfunded-mini-itx-case-updates-in-first-post.1717132/page-298#post-1040884531"]Post 11884[/URL].
 
Shottie said:
Finally finished up my M1 build. Got all my parts in except the Toxic cable because of the 8-10 week wait. NBD.

The Struggle

Full parts list can be found here:
Shottielol's Completed Build - Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 - PCPartPicker
Click to expand...

ReaperX22 said:
Sick. Your temps are amazingly low :\. But do you have those Noctuas smashing through air? Running at 2k RPM? My bottom fans in mine are 800 rpm noiseblockers, my D9L runs 2 92mm fans at 800-1500rpm variable, and the rear fan of the same type at 1000rpm. No intake on the side. Is the side intake perhaps your key to low temps (short of the delid).
Click to expand...

ReaperX22 said:
Damn.. Hmm. My gaming temps in a 25~Celsius environment for CPU are around 65 for CPU 1.16v @ 4.2ghz on an i5. and GPU temps are 82 degrees x.x With a 1070. Might see if swapping in my GT AP-15's and running a low noise adapter on them will help..
Click to expand...

Great build! Only improvement would be a Noctua NH-C14. I've got my CPU running at 4.5GHZ and under load reach around 50-55C. But also use an SF450 from Corsair and a short GPU for a bit better air flow.
 
About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?

r_750x450.png


IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com

A59T_1_2014110270985198.jpg


Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com

35-426-041-TS


Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com

TLvtr1OsK-2bojVePrs48TaA-3d-3d_BigProductImage.jpg
 
Speed-Driven said:
About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?

r_750x450.png


IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com

A59T_1_2014110270985198.jpg


Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com

35-426-041-TS


Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com

TLvtr1OsK-2bojVePrs48TaA-3d-3d_BigProductImage.jpg
Click to expand...
looks like the mounting is for 140 with 120 hole pattern, so the Gelid and Fractal Design 140s may need zip ties or something.
 
Nanook said:
looks like the mounting is for 140 with 120 hole pattern, so the Gelid and Fractal Design 140s may need zip ties or something.
Click to expand...

Well what's holding the fan on is just some bent wire anyways. I can rebend my own mounting wires. or yeah.. the zip tie method.
 
Speed-Driven said:
About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?

r_750x450.png


IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com

A59T_1_2014110270985198.jpg


Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com

35-426-041-TS


Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com

TLvtr1OsK-2bojVePrs48TaA-3d-3d_BigProductImage.jpg
Click to expand...

You could also try the EK Vardar 140 fans, or Silverstones FHP-141... SilverStone Technology Co., Ltd.- FHP141
 
Is it possible to change the LED colour? Right now I have blue for on and purple (blue+ red) for HDD activity? Is there a green LED included or is that all? I wish I could make it green for on and yellow for HDD working.
 
Speed-Driven said:
About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?

r_750x450.png


IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com

A59T_1_2014110270985198.jpg


Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com

35-426-041-TS


Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com

TLvtr1OsK-2bojVePrs48TaA-3d-3d_BigProductImage.jpg
Click to expand...

Do you have a space issue? Why not go for a Noctua NF-A14? It would fit well.

OR, if you do have height issues, wait for the new Noctua slim line 120mm and 140mm fans. They are expected late 2016 (Noctua)
 
Here are two 140 mm PWM fans with 120 mm mounting holes:
Since colours matter: the Noctua fan has 9 dark grey blades in a lighter grey frame and the Phanteks has 7 black blades in a white frame. Perhaps one of these will suit your needs. Good luck!
 
rfarmer said:
Put the usb in first, just change your boot options in the bios to boot off usb. Drivers install after the OS.
Click to expand...

Well, I got the new rig going as of 2 days ago. It was amazing how fast the Win 10 OS on the MS flash drive installed...What took a while was DL/installing all the updates. The latest bios is '2002'... did that too. I have not used anything on the Asus drivers DVD... everything seems like it's runnng ok.

I've had issues with the DDR4-3200 Corsair not running at that speed. Initially, for whatever reason with just 1 8GB stick in slot 2 it would boot but at 2133.

In the bios, using 'EZ tuning wizard', clicked on the automatic 'gaming' setting, and rebooted. It was a very mild OC, with 4120 on the i7-6700k, the dram freq at 3112, the BCLK to 103. MHz, core voltage 1.312, and the XMP saying 3112 at 1.350.

For now, I didn't feel like putting the second 8GB stick back on the MB... it's a PITA, honestly.

My 3 fans (Noctua C14 on cpu, and 2 120mm Vardar's exhausting on side panel) seem fine at stock speeds...haven't touched those settings for now. I notice no throttling.

In Battlefield1, I'm running on 'High' settings. I know this rig can handle 'Ultra' but I want to continue max frame rates against these kids with their faster reflexes than mine... The game is fun, but I stink at throwing that dang anti-tank grenade...
smiley.gif


My final payment on the tooth implant was @ $2,300 (yikes), so I'll wait 'til next month to get the DAC (Audio Engine D1)... Unless there's a cable I could get for now so that I can use my desktop M-Audio AV40's (2.0) setup that has RCA's with the MB audio connectors .....

This dang case is very SEXY on my desk... :)

I wanted to send in some pics, but I'm having probs w/ the comp 'seeing' my LGV10 phone...hmm.
 
Last edited:
RIRed48 said:
Well, I got the new rig going as of 2 days ago. It was amazing how fast the Win 10 OS on the MS flash drive installed...What took a while was DL/installing all the updates. The latest bios is '2002'... did that too. I have not used anything on the Asus drivers DVD... everything seems like it's runnng ok.

I've had issues with the DDR4-3200 Corsair not running at that speed. Initially, for whatever reason with just 1 8GB stick in slot 2 it would boot but at 2133.

In the bios, using 'EZ tuning wizard', clicked on the automatic 'gaming' setting, and rebooted. It was a very mild OC, with 4120 on the i7-6700k, the dram freq at 3112, the BCLK to 103. MHz, core voltage 1.312, and the XMP saying 3112 at 1.350.

For now, I didn't feel like putting the second 8GB stick back on the MB... it's a PITA, honestly.

My 3 fans (Noctua C14 on cpu, and 2 120mm Vardar's exhausting on side panel) seem fine at stock speeds...haven't touched those settings for now. I notice no throttling.

In Battlefield1, I'm running on 'High' settings. I know this rig can handle 'Ultra' but I want to continue max frame rates against these kids with their faster reflexes than mine... The game is fun, but I stink at throwing that dang anti-tank grenade...
smiley.gif


My final payment on the tooth implant was @ $2,300 (yikes), so I'll wait 'til next month to get the DAC (Audio Engine D1)... Unless there's a cable I could get for now so that I can use my desktop M-Audio AV40's (2.0) setup that has RCA's with the MB audio connectors .....

This dang case is very SEXY on my desk... :)

I wanted to send in some pics, but I'm having probs w/ the comp 'seeing' my LGV10 phone...hmm.
Click to expand...

Glad you got it up and running, yeah installing OS off a flash drive is nice and quick. 2133 MHz is the default speed for DDR4 ram, anything over that you have to load a XMP profile for.
 
Phuncz said:
Not really, since it was never cooled in its original state. Most times, the memory chips will suffice without cooling. The VRM heatsinks are important though.
Click to expand...

They there, I just got my Accelero 4 heat sink off ebay without any accessories unfortunately. Do you have any pictures how the mounted card looks so I can get an idea what I need in terms of screws / back plate etc.?
 
PSA - Cablemod are doing a 20% discount!
- Code "MOD20" till November 7th

Wish they were doing this when I ordered mine!!
 
RIRed48 said:
Well, I got the new rig going as of 2 days ago. It was amazing how fast the Win 10 OS on the MS flash drive installed...What took a while was DL/installing all the updates. The latest bios is '2002'... did that too. I have not used anything on the Asus drivers DVD... everything seems like it's runnng ok.

I've had issues with the DDR4-3200 Corsair not running at that speed. Initially, for whatever reason with just 1 8GB stick in slot 2 it would boot but at 2133.

In the bios, using 'EZ tuning wizard', clicked on the automatic 'gaming' setting, and rebooted. It was a very mild OC, with 4120 on the i7-6700k, the dram freq at 3112, the BCLK to 103. MHz, core voltage 1.312, and the XMP saying 3112 at 1.350.

For now, I didn't feel like putting the second 8GB stick back on the MB... it's a PITA, honestly.

My 3 fans (Noctua C14 on cpu, and 2 120mm Vardar's exhausting on side panel) seem fine at stock speeds...haven't touched those settings for now. I notice no throttling.

In Battlefield1, I'm running on 'High' settings. I know this rig can handle 'Ultra' but I want to continue max frame rates against these kids with their faster reflexes than mine... The game is fun, but I stink at throwing that dang anti-tank grenade...
smiley.gif


My final payment on the tooth implant was @ $2,300 (yikes), so I'll wait 'til next month to get the DAC (Audio Engine D1)... Unless there's a cable I could get for now so that I can use my desktop M-Audio AV40's (2.0) setup that has RCA's with the MB audio connectors .....

This dang case is very SEXY on my desk... :)

I wanted to send in some pics, but I'm having probs w/ the comp 'seeing' my LGV10 phone...hmm.
Click to expand...

Finally!! (y)
 
Learning_mode said:
^
so 49mm if the card doesn't droop, gotcha. I'm planning to get this top, 46mm total height excluding top plugs

images
Click to expand...

I dont know if this is still relevant, but i have used a very similar ddc top, the aquacomputer aquacover ddc, and it did fit pretty well without the GPU touching the top, so no vibrations or sound transferring through the case. However, you need to plan out the way you want to connect everything very carefully, because you have very little room to work with.
Here you can take a look at how i did it in my build. (Last Page/Entry)
 
danny.nguyen said:
Has anyone bought this one?

:: NOFAN Corporation :: Noiseless Computer, Noiseless Cooler, Noiseless Computer Case, Noiseless Power Supply, and other various noiseless computer components. Specialized Noiseless Computer hardware manufacturer.

Not sure if it will fit or not due to diameter of fanless one.
Click to expand...

Height wise it looks fine. Looking at the pics it doesn't appear to extend past the motherboard in any direction, I would think it should fit fine as long as your cpu is toward the center of your motherboard.
 
Chapeau said:
Your build has in part inspired me to use an internal reservoir. My parts have been in transit for more than a month but hopefully I can rebuild by the end of this week!
I'm not quite there yet with the hard-tubing. I don't want to have to buy new fittings, tools etc.

But for future reference: Any tips? What would you have done differently?
Click to expand...


Nothing to be honest. This is my first watercooled build and I'm really happy about it. And the hard tubing isn't that hard to do. But since I'm a Plumber, I may got some advantage when it comes to water and tubes.
 
anak85 said:
They there, I just got my Accelero 4 heat sink off ebay without any accessories unfortunately. Do you have any pictures how the mounted card looks so I can get an idea what I need in terms of screws / back plate etc.?
Click to expand...

Zo9o4d4.png


You can see on the Arctic webpage what you'd normally need:

Accelero_Xtreme_IV_T06.jpg


What I've used is basically the long screws, some of the washers and the nuts, along with some spacers.
 
rfarmer said:
Glad you got it up and running, yeah installing OS off a flash drive is nice and quick. 2133 MHz is the default speed for DDR4 ram, anything over that you have to load a XMP profile for.
Click to expand...

Freaky thing happened today. Got a DAC a while back and decided to use it for better sound. Well, the power connector was a bit loose, and when I was booting the computer it came out a bit and I jiggled it back in, heard a 'click' and the comp shut off... and could not get it to turn on...OOPS, a short I was afraid, and thought I fried the MB or something.

Just for laughs I pulled out the bios battery, reset, and back in.... ipso/presto.... Comp booted, wow....so lucky. It acted like a surge protector it seemed.

DAC was still under warranty, and I sent it back because of that loose connector port on the unit itself.
 
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