Sick. Your temps are amazingly low :\. But do you have those Noctuas smashing through air? Running at 2k RPM? My bottom fans in mine are 800 rpm noiseblockers, my D9L runs 2 92mm fans at 800-1500rpm variable, and the rear fan of the same type at 1000rpm. No intake on the side. Is the side intake perhaps your key to low temps (short of the delid).
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
Damn.. Hmm. My gaming temps in a 25~Celsius environment for CPU are around 65 for CPU 1.16v @ 4.2ghz on an i5. and GPU temps are 82 degrees x.x With a 1070. Might see if swapping in my GT AP-15's and running a low noise adapter on them will help..
Probably. I'm in Australia with a very poorly insulated room, we're heading into summer soon so playing games in my room increases temps a little bit as well.
I might change around my fans.. Keep the bottom 2 as is, but remove the front 92mm fan I have installed, and install a 120mm on the side as intake. Might help CPU temps if nothing else.
Chapeau
Gawd
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Looks great!
Nice and clean - will run quietly and fuss free. love your keyboard too.
We have the same wallpaper atm...
Totally agree with ReaperX22 - amazing temps. I'm in the same boat so the speak... dreading what summer will bring.
Gandergray
n00b
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An example of a full length GPU used in tandem with a full ATX 140mm power supply and dual radiators can be viewed here: [URL="https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase-m1-a-crowdfunded-mini-itx-case-updates-in-first-post.1717132/page-285#post-1040811798"]Post 11361[/URL] and [URL="https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase-m1-a-crowdfunded-mini-itx-case-updates-in-first-post.1717132/page-298#post-1040884531"]Post 11884[/URL].
Great build! Only improvement would be a Noctua NH-C14. I've got my CPU running at 4.5GHZ and under load reach around 50-55C. But also use an SF450 from Corsair and a short GPU for a bit better air flow.
Speed-Driven
Weaksauce
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About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?
IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com
Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com
Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com
IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com
Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com
Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com
looks like the mounting is for 140 with 120 hole pattern, so the Gelid and Fractal Design 140s may need zip ties or something.About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?
IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com
Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com
Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com
Speed-Driven
Weaksauce
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Well what's holding the fan on is just some bent wire anyways. I can rebend my own mounting wires. or yeah.. the zip tie method.
Hermit2001
Weaksauce
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About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?
IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com
Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com
Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com
You could also try the EK Vardar 140 fans, or Silverstones FHP-141... SilverStone Technology Co., Ltd.- FHP141
cwjakesteel
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Is it possible to change the LED colour? Right now I have blue for on and purple (blue+ red) for HDD activity? Is there a green LED included or is that all? I wish I could make it green for on and yellow for HDD working.
About to order the Raijintek Pallas.. but I want to replace the fan. Which 140mm fan to go with it? More airflow but quiet too please?
IDCooling: ID-COOLING NO-14025K Big Airflow 140mm PWM Controlled Fan With De-vibration Rubber, Low Noise but Big Airflow 76.8CFM-Newegg.com
Gelid: GELID Solutions Slient 14 FN-PX14-12 140mm Case Fan - Newegg.com
Fractal Design: Fractal Design Venturi HF Series Black Fluid Dynamic Bearing High Airflow 140mm Case Fan-Newegg.com
Do you have a space issue? Why not go for a Noctua NF-A14? It would fit well.
OR, if you do have height issues, wait for the new Noctua slim line 120mm and 140mm fans. They are expected late 2016 (Noctua)
Speed-Driven
Weaksauce
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I just HATE how the Noctuas look.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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I agree, and those new clear fans are nearly as bad as the brown.
Qrash
Gawd
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Here are two 140 mm PWM fans with 120 mm mounting holes:
- Noctua NF-P14r redux (450-1500 rpm, 79 CFM, 25.8 dBA, 1.91 mm H2O)
- Phanteks PH-F140HP II (500-1600 rpm, 68.1 CFM, 25 dBA, 1.62 mm H2O)
Not sure if you like Cryorig designs (many do). Check out the XT140 Slim or the XF 140 regular thickness. Both are PWM.
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
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Well, I got the new rig going as of 2 days ago. It was amazing how fast the Win 10 OS on the MS flash drive installed...What took a while was DL/installing all the updates. The latest bios is '2002'... did that too. I have not used anything on the Asus drivers DVD... everything seems like it's runnng ok.
I've had issues with the DDR4-3200 Corsair not running at that speed. Initially, for whatever reason with just 1 8GB stick in slot 2 it would boot but at 2133.
In the bios, using 'EZ tuning wizard', clicked on the automatic 'gaming' setting, and rebooted. It was a very mild OC, with 4120 on the i7-6700k, the dram freq at 3112, the BCLK to 103. MHz, core voltage 1.312, and the XMP saying 3112 at 1.350.
For now, I didn't feel like putting the second 8GB stick back on the MB... it's a PITA, honestly.
My 3 fans (Noctua C14 on cpu, and 2 120mm Vardar's exhausting on side panel) seem fine at stock speeds...haven't touched those settings for now. I notice no throttling.
In Battlefield1, I'm running on 'High' settings. I know this rig can handle 'Ultra' but I want to continue max frame rates against these kids with their faster reflexes than mine... The game is fun, but I stink at throwing that dang anti-tank grenade...
My final payment on the tooth implant was @ $2,300 (yikes), so I'll wait 'til next month to get the DAC (Audio Engine D1)... Unless there's a cable I could get for now so that I can use my desktop M-Audio AV40's (2.0) setup that has RCA's with the MB audio connectors .....
This dang case is very SEXY on my desk...
I wanted to send in some pics, but I'm having probs w/ the comp 'seeing' my LGV10 phone...hmm.
Last edited:
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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Well, I got the new rig going as of 2 days ago. It was amazing how fast the Win 10 OS on the MS flash drive installed...What took a while was DL/installing all the updates. The latest bios is '2002'... did that too. I have not used anything on the Asus drivers DVD... everything seems like it's runnng ok.
I've had issues with the DDR4-3200 Corsair not running at that speed. Initially, for whatever reason with just 1 8GB stick in slot 2 it would boot but at 2133.
In the bios, using 'EZ tuning wizard', clicked on the automatic 'gaming' setting, and rebooted. It was a very mild OC, with 4120 on the i7-6700k, the dram freq at 3112, the BCLK to 103. MHz, core voltage 1.312, and the XMP saying 3112 at 1.350.
For now, I didn't feel like putting the second 8GB stick back on the MB... it's a PITA, honestly.
My 3 fans (Noctua C14 on cpu, and 2 120mm Vardar's exhausting on side panel) seem fine at stock speeds...haven't touched those settings for now. I notice no throttling.
In Battlefield1, I'm running on 'High' settings. I know this rig can handle 'Ultra' but I want to continue max frame rates against these kids with their faster reflexes than mine... The game is fun, but I stink at throwing that dang anti-tank grenade...
My final payment on the tooth implant was @ $2,300 (yikes), so I'll wait 'til next month to get the DAC (Audio Engine D1)... Unless there's a cable I could get for now so that I can use my desktop M-Audio AV40's (2.0) setup that has RCA's with the MB audio connectors .....
This dang case is very SEXY on my desk...
I wanted to send in some pics, but I'm having probs w/ the comp 'seeing' my LGV10 phone...hmm.
Glad you got it up and running, yeah installing OS off a flash drive is nice and quick. 2133 MHz is the default speed for DDR4 ram, anything over that you have to load a XMP profile for.
They there, I just got my Accelero 4 heat sink off ebay without any accessories unfortunately. Do you have any pictures how the mounted card looks so I can get an idea what I need in terms of screws / back plate etc.?
danny.nguyen
n00b
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rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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The Maximum recommended length is 160mm and this one is 170mm. You also give up a lot using an ATX PSU. No 3.5 HDD bracket, no long GPUs and no 240mm radiator on side bracket.
Chapeau
Gawd
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PSA - Cablemod are doing a 20% discount!
- Code "MOD20" till November 7th
Wish they were doing this when I ordered mine!!
- Code "MOD20" till November 7th
Wish they were doing this when I ordered mine!!
Chapeau
Gawd
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- Jul 17, 2016
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Well, I got the new rig going as of 2 days ago. It was amazing how fast the Win 10 OS on the MS flash drive installed...What took a while was DL/installing all the updates. The latest bios is '2002'... did that too. I have not used anything on the Asus drivers DVD... everything seems like it's runnng ok.
I've had issues with the DDR4-3200 Corsair not running at that speed. Initially, for whatever reason with just 1 8GB stick in slot 2 it would boot but at 2133.
In the bios, using 'EZ tuning wizard', clicked on the automatic 'gaming' setting, and rebooted. It was a very mild OC, with 4120 on the i7-6700k, the dram freq at 3112, the BCLK to 103. MHz, core voltage 1.312, and the XMP saying 3112 at 1.350.
For now, I didn't feel like putting the second 8GB stick back on the MB... it's a PITA, honestly.
My 3 fans (Noctua C14 on cpu, and 2 120mm Vardar's exhausting on side panel) seem fine at stock speeds...haven't touched those settings for now. I notice no throttling.
In Battlefield1, I'm running on 'High' settings. I know this rig can handle 'Ultra' but I want to continue max frame rates against these kids with their faster reflexes than mine... The game is fun, but I stink at throwing that dang anti-tank grenade...
My final payment on the tooth implant was @ $2,300 (yikes), so I'll wait 'til next month to get the DAC (Audio Engine D1)... Unless there's a cable I could get for now so that I can use my desktop M-Audio AV40's (2.0) setup that has RCA's with the MB audio connectors .....
This dang case is very SEXY on my desk...
I wanted to send in some pics, but I'm having probs w/ the comp 'seeing' my LGV10 phone...hmm.
Finally!!
^
so 49mm if the card doesn't droop, gotcha. I'm planning to get this top, 46mm total height excluding top plugs
I dont know if this is still relevant, but i have used a very similar ddc top, the aquacomputer aquacover ddc, and it did fit pretty well without the GPU touching the top, so no vibrations or sound transferring through the case. However, you need to plan out the way you want to connect everything very carefully, because you have very little room to work with.
Here you can take a look at how i did it in my build. (Last Page/Entry)
danny.nguyen
n00b
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- Jun 10, 2011
- Messages
- 62
Has anyone bought this one?
:: NOFAN Corporation :: Noiseless Computer, Noiseless Cooler, Noiseless Computer Case, Noiseless Power Supply, and other various noiseless computer components. Specialized Noiseless Computer hardware manufacturer.
Not sure if it will fit or not due to diameter of fanless one.
:: NOFAN Corporation :: Noiseless Computer, Noiseless Cooler, Noiseless Computer Case, Noiseless Power Supply, and other various noiseless computer components. Specialized Noiseless Computer hardware manufacturer.
Not sure if it will fit or not due to diameter of fanless one.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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- May 9, 2014
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- 1,171
Height wise it looks fine. Looking at the pics it doesn't appear to extend past the motherboard in any direction, I would think it should fit fine as long as your cpu is toward the center of your motherboard.
Dante Bellin
n00b
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- Jun 17, 2016
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- 12
Nothing to be honest. This is my first watercooled build and I'm really happy about it. And the hard tubing isn't that hard to do. But since I'm a Plumber, I may got some advantage when it comes to water and tubes.
Phuncz
2[H]4U
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- Apr 12, 2009
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- 2,630
You can see on the Arctic webpage what you'd normally need:
What I've used is basically the long screws, some of the washers and the nuts, along with some spacers.
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2006
- Messages
- 361
Freaky thing happened today. Got a DAC a while back and decided to use it for better sound. Well, the power connector was a bit loose, and when I was booting the computer it came out a bit and I jiggled it back in, heard a 'click' and the comp shut off... and could not get it to turn on...OOPS, a short I was afraid, and thought I fried the MB or something.
Just for laughs I pulled out the bios battery, reset, and back in.... ipso/presto.... Comp booted, wow....so lucky. It acted like a surge protector it seemed.
DAC was still under warranty, and I sent it back because of that loose connector port on the unit itself.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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Glad it wasn't serious, things like that are scary.
Glad PC was ok!
I had a fan connector come loose while test booting my system, I reconnected the fan, and the PC did the "click" thing. Video card mini 4-pin fan header was fried. GPU and rest of PC was OK though.
Nice!
Did you just put a 3V vandal switch or did you add an electrical resistance to make it 6V compatible?
Must depend on you mobo, mine has a power LED output of 5V ( Asrock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX) so I guess I should add the resistance.
I'm thinking of doing an M1 build, but need some help choosing an appropriate video card. I will be using a WQHD or 4k display, with only light gaming. The biggest priority is silent operation, but I've never met a quiet blower-style video card. This is only my second build, so I'm not comfortable with water-cooling or anything too crazy.
What video card would other M1 owners recommend? Any general tips when trying to narrow the field?
Also, what is generally considered the quietest CPU cooling method at idle or low temps for the M1? I'm planning to use the Corsair SFX450 as I read the fan noise is lower than the SFX600. This should leave enough room to install an ODD, M.2 SSD, and 1 HDD, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated, and apologies if I should be posting elsewhere!
What video card would other M1 owners recommend? Any general tips when trying to narrow the field?
Also, what is generally considered the quietest CPU cooling method at idle or low temps for the M1? I'm planning to use the Corsair SFX450 as I read the fan noise is lower than the SFX600. This should leave enough room to install an ODD, M.2 SSD, and 1 HDD, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated, and apologies if I should be posting elsewhere!
incredadamible
Weaksauce
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- Feb 2, 2016
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- 117
I would recommend the smallest card you can find. I have an Asus GTX 970 DirectCU Mini on a 34" Dell ultrawide monitor (3440x1440)...it performs very well and is quiet.
For CPU cooling, I have a Noctua D9L with a 92mm fan. I played around with the fan profile to balance the noise and temperatures and it works pretty well. Only time I can hear the fan is when I'm really pushing the CPU (converting videos mostly).
My $0.02 anyway...
This is exactly the type of advice I'm looking for, so thank you.
I'm trying to build as close to silent as possible, so I've been wary of shorter GPUs since they typically run hotter. I figured with the shorter board, you would have smaller/fewer fans, so less efficient cooling with greater noise output. I would very much appreciate shorter GPUs for ease of installation, but only if there's no acoustic tradeoffs. Would you still recommend the GTX 970, or is there a better option?
Also, would an AIO cooler be quieter than a CPU heat sink/fan during normal operation? I'm just really concerned about reducing fan noise as much as possible, especially during normal operation as the PC will rarely be under load. What about the fanless CPU cooler someone linked to above?
Finally, I read that the SFX450 has a quieter fan, but would the SFX600 be more quite overall since it likely wouldn't be pushed beyond 400W?
EVGA/Zotac make a short 1060 that is worth a look. The fans shut off on these cards at idle. However, I have a EVGA 1070 ACX 3.0 that hits around 76C in Heaven with the default fan curve. It's very quiet too.
I have a Noctua U9S that I like for the cpu.
All the other components you listed will fit with the SF450
I know nothing about electrical currents...
I bought this switch http://www.ebay.com/itm/271361473765?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
And hooked it up using this cable
http://www.performance-pcs.com/swit...tch-cable-assembly-spade-style-momentary.html
Is this going to be an issue down the line? It worked right away. I have an Asrock H97 ITX mobo
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What kind of stuff do you plan on using your pc for other than light gaming? Is your use case more CPU or GPU intensive? Are you going to overclock?
From my experience:
For CPU cooler, the larger the fan, the more quiet it is. For my OC 6700K, the Noctua U9s (with two 92mm fans), or the C14 (with two 120mm fans) were both relatively quiet.
For GPU, stay away from blowers. There're several 10 series video cards out there with the "fan-stop" feature, where the fans are off until the GPU gets to 60c. Hybrid graphics cards can also be pretty quiet: I converted my founders edition card to a hybrid and it was much more quiet.
My Silverstone sfx 600w is very quiet.
Hope this helps!
From the ebay page, your switch has a 3V LED. A resistor should have been included in the package so that you can make it compatible to a 12V source.
If you have a multimeter, you can check what's the voltage from you mobo. Easy bet is that it's 5V like mine (I've asked Asrock support).
I also bought one from ebay and the seller recommended me to buy the 6V version when I said my mobo was delivering 5V.
Here we need someone that knows electricity better than me to tell if your 3V LED could be damaged by a 5V source in the long run. Maybe not and the only effect is a brighter light...
Good find with the ppcs cable btw!
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